Can anyone give me any tips on how they structure a max intensity board session? How many problems, how many tries, how much rest between goes? Cheers!
I like to mix it up a bit and do 6ish of the usual problems increasing in difficulty before getting stuck into something I can't quite do the moves on (gets you proper warmed up too).It's good to have a couple of these like you say. One where you can only hang the positions and one where you can do the moves but can't quite link it. Sounds like you've got a plan. I probably spend 40 minutes on the max problems, I don't think you need much rest if you're literally just pulling one or two moves.
It feels weird trying problems where I can only just pull on or barely do one move.
So thinking about it from the standpoint of weightlifting, where there has been research on the topic, doing eccentric or isometric only has been shown as a means of helping improve recruitment. Seems like it is a blend of neurological recruitment and actual strength gains.How that applies here: Isometric would directly relate to those problems where you can just hang the positions, but there's no direct comparison for the eccentric only
True, there is a difference between open and closed chain, but references I've seen related to isometric loading effects have used both bench(open chain) and squats(closed chain), so on the surface it would appear to impact both situations. In both cases, the isometric loading is done to help prepare your body before actually trying to lift that weight. I haven't looked at the studies in a while though, so could be way off my marker....I'm not sure about the reversing moves as eccentric.... I think sometimes they could be considered eccentric, but not always.
first point... hmm yes that seems as though it would be more climbing relevant, second point, when would they not be?
I go with something along the lines of:strength phase = try new moves, stringing together a few moves power = linking moves, creating problemsPE = sending problems, creating circuits / 4x4s etc