[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 73   
Indoor: 3 
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 18

Not much to report this week - my mind has been more focussed on work (for once) and it feels like my climbing has been going through the motions a little. Still, I guess thats how it goes with some weeks better than others - sometimes the feeling is there and sometimes its not...

Still, I got back out to Farleton on Tuesday - really motivated to get the Coil done... Conditions were fine (c.20 degrees not too humid) and after warming up I pulled on and felt really solid. There were then three or four attempts where I slapped the top, and either forgot to hold or didnt get enough finger over the edge when remembering to hold! I dont know if its just me, but i seem to have a real difficulty with engaging the grip when I slap for a flat edge. Quite often I get my hand suitably around the edge to (probably) hold it, but somehow I get the timing of the 'GRIP' instruction wrong and nothing happens!

Anyway back to the Coil - For me being tall, the final slap is either a fully extended deadpoint or a tiny dyno - and I seem to get caught between the two... Trying to fanny around with my method and find a slightly higher set of footholds (so it was definately a deadpoint) I managed to split a tip on my RH in the little two fingered pocket.. so game over.

Retreating to plan B (Panda) I made some progress, including an acrobatic tumble down the hill and slapping and holding the hold I've been slapping for on previous visits (if that makes any sense!)

Next up was Friday.. really it was the next time the weather looked OK - and getting fed up of driving long distances (to S.Lakes lime) I went and had a look at Helsby. Ended up having a really good little session. Just repeated previous problems but felt strong, moved well and movements that were hard last time I visited were now fine....

And today.... back to Helsby, hungover and it felt really like I was going through the motions, but its all mileage....

[Luke Owens]

Good week on the training front, no sends but some break through's!

Monday: Rested as planned to go out Tuesday which fell through!
Tuesday: Rested as again planned to go out Wednesday which also fell through!

Wednesday: Deadhangs -

10 Minute feet-on moving hangs.

Improved in all hangs since 16th July! Happy!

3 Finger Open-Hand (30mm Edge 10kg added)
S1: 10secs  S2: 11secs 3: 11secs

Sloper 35's (nestle/cheating)
S1: 4secs S2: 4secs S3: 5secs

4 Finger Half-Crimp - (20mm Edge)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs  S3: 6secs

Middle 2 Open - (25mm? Edge, middle size pocked on the BM2000)
S1: 11secs S2: 14secs  S3: 14secs

Front 2 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 6secs S3: 5secs

Back 3 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs S3: 5secs

Thursday: Dinbren with Ally & Luke - Got some great new beta for the F7b+ proj thank to Ally! Got a massively easier way of doing the crux, got to a high point on redpoint when tired so going to go all out on it this week! Confident!

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Went to Pigeon's Cave with Doylo, tons of beast's down there, Shauna Coxsey, Ned Feeley, Alex Barrows etc. Watched some F8a flashes and belayed Doylo on the first ascent of his F8b proj, "Speckled Jim". Inspiring stuff!

I tried some hideous 3 bolt 7a+, failed on the on-sight. Had one nails move, tried to redpoint it and it ripped a chunk out of my finger so I sacked it off, watched the beasts climb instead.

Sunday: Aerocap warm-up. 20 mins feet-on moving hangs.

3 x (1:40 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
Felt invincible to getting pumped for some reason! Changed the moves I was doing so it was harder and included a cut loose half way though too?? Might have been the good warm up I had, maybe something to keep in mind at the crag?

Going to try an get 30 - 40 minutes Aerocap workout's in as active rest on rest days when I can.

[nai]

Still on holiday, have been mostly fishing but:
M - 7 km run morning and walked up a small fell (Latrigg) in the afternoon, kids first summit, very exciting.

T - Carrock, went to try Rouse's Wall which I'd bottled on my last holiday visit four years ago. Took a while to work out the bottom again, managed it eventually but again and again jumped off the top.  Did a few other bits instead. Good session.
w - nowt

T - back to Carrock after rain and still humid, absolute smeg. Nothing hard was going to happen, trashed my fingers trying though.
fss - nowt

Off to SW Scotland for the remainder of the holiday on Tuesday, chose this option and the chance to catch some more big Perch over the chance to climb in Northumberland but have since realised that Garheugh is very close and I'm quite excited about visiting there, if the guide is right and it really is packed with top quality problems of 6B-7B it should be interesting.

[kelvin]

Worked late all week except Friday when I went to London, had very little sleep and was late for work Saturday. Worked today too...

No excuses tho. A poor effort.

Tue - Ran, about 3 miles of fartlek and some intervals. Felt okay actually, tried hard enough to puke but couldn't.

Sun - Boulder room. Cautious with the finger after dislocating it 10 days ago. Good session for two hours with one 15min break Flashed a fingery V2. Sorted holds to use to practise for that E3 I wanna do. Tried just using bolt holds for fingers on the slab - I want to set a new E10 at some point 

Got a two week trip to Spain in Sept - so STG is lose some weight.

Should be able to train normally from next week. Oh yeh - got puntered for the first time this week. I suppose I should feel embarrassed but seeing as it was awarded to me tit for tat, I don't. Nicking people's projects is wrong and next time I'll just have to remember to spout my opinion publicly before I punter someone.

[shark]

11.4-5

M.
T.  AM. Tor with all three kids. Cooler conditions. Decided to give AM a miss. Placed a bolt to do a Direct version of Indecent. Redpointed twice to the crux and fell off. Kids behaved better than anticipated.
W.
T. AM. Tor with Tom and Poppy. Start of Indecent was wet  Horribly humid and oppressive conditions too. Had a couple of goes on AM and refined foot sequence on crux of Indecent Direct.
F.
S.AM Tor with just Poppy. Good conds but Indecent start still wet. Tried Perverse Rev. Can get to good slot with Left heel in start but not to sort a way to unwind from it. Set some mini-probs for Poppy which she enjoyed 
S.

So-so week. May train later this evening.

EDIT

S. Late eve deadhang and assisted one arm session

[Muenchener]

STG (September): Welsh trad E2
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
   Redpoint UIAA VIII-, then 7a, then 5.12a. This should allow for a satisfying amount of Big Grade progression in a relatively short period of time
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)


M: Bike to work 25km
T: Bike to work 25km
   Wall, Gilching. Routes 5c 5c 6a 6a+ 6b 6a+. Rather relaxed / low motivation session, but all mileage is good mileage, right?
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Motivation & energy level much better than yesterday. 5c 6a 6b 6a 6b+ 6b+ 6a+ 6a+.
T:
F: Knee / mobility / bodyweight exercises. Tried the stabiliser benchmark/routine described here  and was especially weak on the upper back & neck extension - could barely do 2 x 15 with a broomstick. Something to work on.
S: Family camping/canoeing weekend in Frankenjura
S: ditto

[nai]

M: Bike to work 25km
T: Bike to work 25km

How do you get home?

[Muenchener]

How do you get home?

I have lots of bikes ...

But really, it should read to & from; 20 to 25km is the round trip distance. I did have a phase when I was trying to do it every day, but it was all getting a bit much, so I would ride in one day, get the tube home & back the next day, then ride home. Then I realised I don't actually like bike riding that much, so now I don't even bother trying to ride every day.

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: Chapel sesh – Classics & Circuits
Wednesday: REST
Thursday: Room Routine
Friday: REST
Saturday: BERRY HEAD - DWS
Sunday BERRY HEAD - DWS

[shark]

Saturday: BERRY HEAD - DWS
Sunday BERRY HEAD - DWS

Nice. What did you get on?

[T_B]

STG - To be fit enough to do some DWS in August
LTG - Get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

85Kg

M - Campussing (did 1-4-7 on right) and deadhanging. Good sess trying other grip types inc small (not slopey) 2 finger pockets
T -
W - As per Monday. Also did 1-5-8 on big rungs on right. Hung 2-finger pocket 5 secs
T - Works in the heat. Struggled around circuit board
F - Foundry - traversing across wave and big rungs of campus board to get pumped
S - Rubicon and Freda's en famille. Breezy and surprisingly good. Had a proper go at Tsunami and kind of dod 4.5 of the 6 moves. Did E.T. Bone Home at Freda's after about 30 goes! 7a? Looked online later and saw there's a heelhook. Hmm.

Off to Dorset/Devon on Thursday with the family. Let the planets align for a chance to get on a dry Mark of the Beast 

[cheque]

Going to the Red River Gorge in October for three weeks so I have new STGs:

1-endurance ‘for days’ on steep, juggy/ open-handed ground.
2-ability to recover on a jug on steep ground
3-ability to do a steep 6A/ 6A+ when pumped silly
4-psyche and ability to go “a muerte” even when pumped and facing massive but safe whipper
5-stoic tolerance of caffeinated soft drink and pizza

last year I went without fully appreciating what I was training for and got close to .12a despite reaching only 2 and a half of these goals and suffering a few setbacks. A year on and with two months application and a week longer over there I reckon I can do .12b and possibly .12c. Realistically I probably won’t go back there again so I’m very determined to make this a reality.

M- Rest.

T- Armathwaite. Condensed and with a very wet landing for much of the problems but had fun climbing my own eliminates (it appears everything is an eliminate there) which were definitely all 7A+ and above  . It’s surprisingly like the Red! Should really have done one of the “pump circuits” detailed in the F&RCC guide but I was on holiday so didn’t. Saw a heron!

W- Walked up Blencathra with Girlfriend. Cool ridge route turned out to be more scrambly/ exposed than expected but she dealt with it fine, despite her technique of kneeling/ lying down when faced with exposure and polished rock. Later went to Bowderstone- hadn’t taken shoes due to torrential forecast but found that it’s perma-dry.  Saw a massive dragonfly!

T- Rest. Very walking/ driving-intensive week has led to stiff legs/ hips. Stretching.

F- Rest. Stretching. New RRG guidebooks arrived. Psyche overload.

S- Depot. Decided to do see how many continuous laps of the pink “6b+” circuit I could do as a benchmarking exercise. Managed 8 (!)   and could still have done a few more moves when I stepped off- bodes very well for goals 1 and 2 (but not so well for number 4…) and although the new circuits have bigger feet- they used to be limited to grey, small, polished footholds, now they use the same colour as their handholds and feel soft rather than desperate for their grades- the Red is hardly known for it’s poor footholds or stiff grades either. Did all the steep easy problems in the bouldering area without breaks ‘til I fell off one (goal 3) then some pull-ups, feet-on campussing etc. Wedding in afternoon- danced ‘til 2AM and ate masses of free sweets.

S- So. Tired. Welcome back elbow tendonitis!   

[Eddies]

Saturday: BERRY HEAD - DWS
Sunday BERRY HEAD - DWS

Nice. What did you get on?

It was my first trip there, Rob Greenwood organised it as his birthday w/end.
I did the full Magical Mystery Tour and fell from the last move on Rainbow Bridge on my flash attempt... Do'h!
Fell from crux on my second attempt as the pump had set in and wouldnt shift. I'll be back...

[Dolly]

M a noisy sweaty Foundry at lunchtime. Warm up then a couple of up problems on the board. Pilates in the evening
T
W More hot fun on the Foundry board. Nearly do my project on it, just need to match to complete. My birthday so a quick sess with Champagne in the shed before out for dinner
T
F
S Family picninc and a few easy problems at Harborough Rocks. Run in the evening
S Pilates and a shed session.


Generally too much work and not enough exercise 

[fried]

Monday- Bro-in-law gets his first pair of shoes and we all head off to Canche aux merciers and do some kids whites and yellows.
Tuesday- Back to Rocher canon for more whites, yellows and even manage to sneak in a couple of blues.
Wednesday- Noone wants to climb, so the posse head off to Dame jouanne for a wander round the plateau. As soon as the kids see rock they want to climb, so we go back to Elephant and do the first half of the yellow circuit.
Thursday and Friday - Hot. Do a quick evening kid herding session at Petit bois on both evenings.
Saturday - Another white for the kids at Apremonts ouest. Noone seemed to be into this circuit and motivation is waning.
Sunday - Rocher des demoiselles. Ended up walking round the blue path which was fantastic. Climbed one orange. Looked at Sexe et dentelles, I'll be back....
In the evening I was let out for an hour on my own...got lost at dame jouanne and managed a few circuit problems.

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - TCA, third hard session in 4 days - prob a bit much, but actually ticked something - a black with a tricky move up into a shouldery undercut/press at 7B+ ish. Sleep ok.
T - Sleep ok.
W - Easy problems at TCA - all the 5 - 6A+'s and a few from the next circuit up. Couple of folk were nice about one of the problems I set too. Sleep ok.
T - Sport in Cheddar in eve. 6c, 6b, 7b(2nd go), 6b+, 7b+(failed (but good) flash attempt) then it got dark. Nice to get out, felt ok above bolts and took a couple of reasonable falls, belayed Kelly up her first 7b. Good day. Sleep poor.
F - Out for leaving do with work - fair bit of booze. Sleep poor.
S - Hungover. Into London to help mate move then out in eve - more boozing. Poor sleep
S - Hungover. Chill in park, then train back to Bris. Sleep ok.

69-70kg.

Finger is feeling a bit dodgy(er) this weekend so going to prob take a week or so off - will try and do a few runs.
Going to start trying to record how well I'm sleeping on here - reckon this is often ignored but is a big factor in how well we respond to training. With shift work my sleeping patterns are pretty irregular, so hopefully this will help me keep track and maybe there'll be some sort of correlation. I'm going to use: poor < 6.5hrs; ok 6.5hrs - 7.5hrs; good 7.5hrs - 8.5hrs; loads > 8.5hrs

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue. Board working projects got close but not that close.
Wed. Rockcity first time in a while. Climbed a few things but mainly sweated.
Thu. Bike 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Anston Stones, did Turnpost, Apprentice Wall and The Crack in between failing on harder things.
Sun. Bike 8 diffrent ways up Saxby Wold all between 1 in 5 and 1 in 10 out about 2 hrs.

[Aussiegav]

Mon: rest
Tue: run @ Burbage Valley (2laps)
1 hr 19 mins 39 secs, 15 sets of 15 burpees at every main intersection (15 sets = 225 burpees)

Wed: graves park run
51 mins 11 secs, 6.33 km
Followed by Indoor Cross Fit
5 rounds in 20 mins
20 push-ups 20 burpees 10 pull-ups 1 minute sprint 1 minute rest

Thu: Rest day

Fri: Derbyshire Lane hill sprints
10 reps: 10-second hill (sprint), 10-second rest
5 reps: 20-second hill (sprint), 20-second rest
3 reps: 30-second hill (sprint), 10-second rest

Followed by Indoor Cross Fit
5rds in 30mins (no rest)
5x chest clap push up. 5x front lever raises. 5x crucifix push ups. 5x Ab shredders. 5x burpees. 5x kettle bell swings (12kg). 5x pull ups.

Sat:
2min hill @ Graves Park
Run up the hill as hard as possible, but maintain a steady pace. Jog down the hill. Do 10 burpees. Repeat 5 times.
Followed by
25 crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers 50 rotating crunches 25 leg-lowers 50 scissor-kicks 50 side-crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers

late afternoon walk around burbage valley with family, carrying 18 month toddler in carrier.

Sun: rest day