Hi,Controversially for this site, I have a running injury. Right knee, when slightly bent and loaded with any lateral movement outwards. Hurts, feels weak. Only noticeable when loaded in that way. Feels like a tendon on the inside of the knee. Medial collateral ligament perhaps? Been bugging me for a couple of weeks. Now becoming a problem for running. Don't know how I did it. Most likely running as I've been increasing mileage recently while doing less bouldering, though obv can't rule out a bouldering fall (but I'd be more likely to notice an acute injury while bouldering I presume).Can you recommend any exercises to help? Should I brace it for running? Is an exercise bike / rowing an appropriate way to reduce the load on it from running?
Hi there,I injured my elbow two months ago, and have been following exercises and icing and stuff but no major improvements. It's not a massive pain, but enough to put me off climbing/training. I feel a twinge around the funny-bone area when locking off or tensing my bicep at an acute angle. Any ideas?Cheers! Dave
Hi Matt,I heard a crack in my wrist and a sharp pain while hanging from a sloper. That was 2 months ago and I've not climbed since. It's still very painful on the top of my hand right next to the wrist and the wrist itself. Pain is worse when fully extending the wrist joint (which made me think it's not a tendon/ligament as surely the pain would be worse during wrist flexion?!) I can't really put any weight on it but an x-ray has come back clear which suggests it is a soft tissue injury. I have a wrist support from my physio but often seem to to re-tweek it doing every day things like opening a door handle etc. I'm trying to decide if i need to be more patient and give it a chance to heal or go private and seek a MRI scan etc.Any advice?Thanks
I've got a re occurrence of a problem I had 3 years ago with my left elbow. It's sore and tender right on the outside tip. It doesn't really hurt when I'm climbing, I can feel it more pushing than pulling. I saw someone about it years ago but they couldn't really pinpoint the problem and just told me to ice it. I had some time off and did some pressups and it got better and has pretty much been ok until recently. Any ideas?
I managed to hurt my LH ring finger last night (after a thorough warm-up, and not doing anything particularly stupid).Unlike previous injuries (which were usually ring finger A2) this hurts highers up the finger on the palm side (I'd take a guess at the A4 region).I was crimped on quite a positive hold and reaching through statically when I decided it didnt' feel right and went to let go. As I did this I felt a crunching (perhaps tearing) sensation to the point at which I asked others nearby if it'd been audible. They hadn't heard anything.Discomfort was pretty much instantaneous although not sharp, more dull. I stopped climbing and began sulking instantly as well as submerging my hand in cold water.Since then I've iced it and taken a lot of Vitamin I(bruprofen).This morning, the finger has a similarily dull pain, especially if I reach across my palm or put the finger in a vaguely crimped position. I've stopped testing it now.Thoughts?One move too may suggests that damage to the A3/4s isn't as catastrophic as an A2 injury. I hope it's right.Also a member of this parish said that he used to suffer from A2s a lot, however, having damaged a lot of those his injuries have crept towards the end of his fingers and now he suffers from A3s and 4s getting damaged. Is this a regular pattern?Thanks in advance.
For perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!
My yoga teacher in India had seen enough westerners to not be surprised by anything any more, but I have the same problem. Eagerly awaiting replies to this one.Have you seen the video of BKS Iyengar from 1938? Amazing. There's a bit where he folds his legs into lotus whilst going up into a handstand. A well known British yoga teacher once said to me "you know that bit where he folds his legs into lotus whilst going up into a handstand? Forget ever learning to do that if your school had chairs"
Suffering from another finger issue, seemingly different to the normal, so thought I would ask here.For the last couple of days and after a few weeks with perhaps more crimping than normal, on straightening my left hand, the middle finger catches slightly and 'clicks' audibly just before fully straightening. This seems to happens about 10% of the time I straighten my fingers, more if I have had my hand still for a while. The source seems to be the joint between the lower and middle phalanx, on the little finger side of the hand and towards the back side rather than palm side.There is no pain and it doesn't seem particularly tender. There might be a small lump, but I have now been playing with the finger too long trying to work out what is happening to objectively know.Any ideas? It seems to share some of the symptons of trigger finger (which seems a not good thing to get) but in the wrong place. I was thinking along the lines of small cyst/tendon sheath inflamation/tendon damage/bone fragment/spur? I was planning some rest, massage, ice? and trying to keep it mobile (squidgy ball/putty)? Might is be worth having some sort of scan to see what is happening if it doesn't stop soon?
Keep the fingers moving as tendons like to glide within the sheath and synovial fluid. regardsMatt
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 11, 2014, 08:06:22 pmFor perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.RegardsMatt
Quote from: HPclinic on June 17, 2014, 06:01:38 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on June 11, 2014, 08:06:22 pmFor perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.RegardsMattThanks very much Matt. Thinking about this, this could be linked to my road bike. I've had a it a few years and have never really had it fitted properly for headset height etc. Long rides can cause quite a bit of stiffness in neck and shoulder (particularly the left) which I often try to stretch out in the saddle. I think I'll get that sorted and see a physio.
Thanks for your advice, unfortunately, despite doing no climbing and stretching/massaging/icing over the last week and a half, the clicking and catching on my finger continues (catching perhaps not quite as bad) also there is definitely an intermittent, small, soft lump on the side of the finger at the site of the problem, so I am thinking it could well be some sort of small cyst which the tendon is catching on/...? Gonna see a dr tomo and see what they say.