Quote from: HPclinic on June 14, 2013, 12:10:56 pmQuote from: Luke Owens on June 07, 2013, 04:41:14 pmGreat idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,I assume you are right handed?You've tried the local things which dont work so it is probably referred from the shouder/neck area maybe from overuse of a mouse at work??Worth trying swapping hands on the mouse and get your arm above your head during the working day and report back.We are producing a video on elbow rehab and you may get some ideas from that.HTHI tried swapping the mouse round for a couple of weeks. I have less pain now and I'm not feeling it while climbing or wrose after climbing but it is still there niggling.I can only really feel it if I do a lock off/pull up or if I straighten my arm out infront of me and stretch my fingers back towards the floor (I can really feel it then!)Would be nice to completely get rid of it although it's not really stopping me doing anything. Anything else I can try as you said it might be shoulder/neck related?Thanks,Luke
Quote from: Luke Owens on June 07, 2013, 04:41:14 pmGreat idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,I assume you are right handed?You've tried the local things which dont work so it is probably referred from the shouder/neck area maybe from overuse of a mouse at work??Worth trying swapping hands on the mouse and get your arm above your head during the working day and report back.We are producing a video on elbow rehab and you may get some ideas from that.HTH
Great idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,
Another week another Boo Boo! Whilst climbing on Tuesday eve I was mid move with my left foot heel-hooking a good hold. I suppose it was a pretty full-on heel-hook with my knee turned away from the rock, my other foot not contributing much and pulling quite a lot on that left heel.There was a loud crack and I collapsed out of the move, no pain, just the unpleasant feeling of something giving way. I lowered to the ground and found that I could stand/walk ok. Gave up on the session though.So first of all the knee seemed to start to stiffen up and was worst on Wed morning. This has begun to subside (Thurs morning) but been replaced by a soreness below the knee, back of the leg on the 'off-side' (or upper calf). I imagine that there will be other symptoms too if I were to try putting the leg into positions other than regular stuff (walking, stairs, etc). But I've been a bit reluctant to examine this yet due to fear of pain and further damage!I've been cooling the area, taking ibuprofen and trying to move about during the day.I guess my plan is to see how things progress over the next few days before I do anything about it; but I would be very keen to hear what you guys think is the cause/remedy.Many thanks for any help you can give.Rich
Quote from: Charlton Chestwig on July 18, 2013, 03:52:04 pmAnother week another Boo Boo! Whilst climbing on Tuesday eve I was mid move with my left foot heel-hooking a good hold. I suppose it was a pretty full-on heel-hook with my knee turned away from the rock, my other foot not contributing much and pulling quite a lot on that left heel.There was a loud crack and I collapsed out of the move, no pain, just the unpleasant feeling of something giving way. I lowered to the ground and found that I could stand/walk ok. Gave up on the session though.So first of all the knee seemed to start to stiffen up and was worst on Wed morning. This has begun to subside (Thurs morning) but been replaced by a soreness below the knee, back of the leg on the 'off-side' (or upper calf). I imagine that there will be other symptoms too if I were to try putting the leg into positions other than regular stuff (walking, stairs, etc). But I've been a bit reluctant to examine this yet due to fear of pain and further damage!I've been cooling the area, taking ibuprofen and trying to move about during the day.I guess my plan is to see how things progress over the next few days before I do anything about it; but I would be very keen to hear what you guys think is the cause/remedy.Many thanks for any help you can give.RichRich. Sounds like you have damaged a knee ligament. If you snap them they are often not painful and you can get pain/swelling around the calf. I would recommend getting your knee assessed by a professional as it needs careful management . Is your knee unstable? Steve
Is it possible to tear a toe pulley? i've been climbing every day this week but switching it up between overhanging and vertical, and doing a lot more balancy, vertical climbing than usual, where the feet are doing a lot of work on tiny edges.today after a bouldering session the big toe on my left foot is distinctly painful when pushing down, and if i touch it is sore in the area where the A2 pulley would be if toes had a2's
Quote from: HPclinic on July 19, 2013, 01:22:13 pmQuote from: Charlton Chestwig on July 18, 2013, 03:52:04 pmAnother week another Boo Boo! Whilst climbing on Tuesday eve I was mid move with my left foot heel-hooking a good hold. I suppose it was a pretty full-on heel-hook with my knee turned away from the rock, my other foot not contributing much and pulling quite a lot on that left heel.There was a loud crack and I collapsed out of the move, no pain, just the unpleasant feeling of something giving way. I lowered to the ground and found that I could stand/walk ok. Gave up on the session though.So first of all the knee seemed to start to stiffen up and was worst on Wed morning. This has begun to subside (Thurs morning) but been replaced by a soreness below the knee, back of the leg on the 'off-side' (or upper calf). I imagine that there will be other symptoms too if I were to try putting the leg into positions other than regular stuff (walking, stairs, etc). But I've been a bit reluctant to examine this yet due to fear of pain and further damage!I've been cooling the area, taking ibuprofen and trying to move about during the day.I guess my plan is to see how things progress over the next few days before I do anything about it; but I would be very keen to hear what you guys think is the cause/remedy.Many thanks for any help you can give.RichRich. Sounds like you have damaged a knee ligament. If you snap them they are often not painful and you can get pain/swelling around the calf. I would recommend getting your knee assessed by a professional as it needs careful management . Is your knee unstable? SteveCheers Steve,Well with the noise it made I wouldn't be surprised if something had snapped. I wouldn't say it was unstable but I am only walking, not tried any more unusual movements since doing it. There isn't any noticeable swelling either; just the ache in the top of the calf.Please could you advise me on what route you would take with this; regarding assessment and treatment? I'm sure a good physio such as yourselves would give me a correct assessment, but if something is snapped or badly torn will this not need some imaging to diagnose and possibly surgery to fix? I guess this would mean having to go to my GP spend a long time on some waiting list?Sorry if this sounds rude towards physios, I really just want to make sure I understand the best way forward.Rich
Quote from: Charlton Chestwig on July 19, 2013, 01:40:56 pmQuote from: HPclinic on July 19, 2013, 01:22:13 pmQuote from: Charlton Chestwig on July 18, 2013, 03:52:04 pmAnother week another Boo Boo! Whilst climbing on Tuesday eve I was mid move with my left foot heel-hooking a good hold. I suppose it was a pretty full-on heel-hook with my knee turned away from the rock, my other foot not contributing much and pulling quite a lot on that left heel.There was a loud crack and I collapsed out of the move, no pain, just the unpleasant feeling of something giving way. I lowered to the ground and found that I could stand/walk ok. Gave up on the session though.So first of all the knee seemed to start to stiffen up and was worst on Wed morning. This has begun to subside (Thurs morning) but been replaced by a soreness below the knee, back of the leg on the 'off-side' (or upper calf). I imagine that there will be other symptoms too if I were to try putting the leg into positions other than regular stuff (walking, stairs, etc). But I've been a bit reluctant to examine this yet due to fear of pain and further damage!I've been cooling the area, taking ibuprofen and trying to move about during the day.I guess my plan is to see how things progress over the next few days before I do anything about it; but I would be very keen to hear what you guys think is the cause/remedy.Many thanks for any help you can give.RichRich. Sounds like you have damaged a knee ligament. If you snap them they are often not painful and you can get pain/swelling around the calf. I would recommend getting your knee assessed by a professional as it needs careful management . Is your knee unstable? SteveCheers Steve,Well with the noise it made I wouldn't be surprised if something had snapped. I wouldn't say it was unstable but I am only walking, not tried any more unusual movements since doing it. There isn't any noticeable swelling either; just the ache in the top of the calf.Please could you advise me on what route you would take with this; regarding assessment and treatment? I'm sure a good physio such as yourselves would give me a correct assessment, but if something is snapped or badly torn will this not need some imaging to diagnose and possibly surgery to fix? I guess this would mean having to go to my GP spend a long time on some waiting list?Sorry if this sounds rude towards physios, I really just want to make sure I understand the best way forward.RichHulloYour symptoms sound very similar to an injury I had back in November. I was also heelhooking quite aggressively, heard a bang etc. Was quite painful for a couple of weeks when walking but very little swelling if any. I didn't feel unstable at all on the knee.I was worried about it, so saw GP and physio. Both thought there was nothing wrong, but I'm lucky to have private healthcare at work so got an MRI anyway. This showed a fully ruptured Lateral Collateral Ligament (the one down the outside). This sounds bad and I bricked myself after assuming that I'd need surgery and a year of rehab etc. etc. But the consultant I saw actually recommended non-surgical treatment since I wasn't experiencing instability. I did a load of physio over the following months and then consultant made final call that no surgery necessary. The only climbing stuff it stopped me from doing was heel hooks (obv), knee bars and high steps/tough rockovers on that side.Would definitely agree that it's worth getting checked out by a professional if possible. Good luckAdam
Hi Luke Try doing a series of shrugs (lifting shoulder up with arms straight) with weight. This has a tendency to remove the stress from the neck of of your arm. I might give you further improvement in the elbow symptoms. Also do shoulder presses above your head (opposite of climbing action) with resistance to de-weight the neck. If nothing else it will help the climbing. Steve
Hi, I've got an issue with the proximal interphalangeal joint on my right middle finger - It's tender to touch on the top of the joint (back hand side), and more so after climbing. I think the issue started on the 1st of June with an impact on the end of the finger (down the direction of the finger) when it was straight. (I was trying to drop my hand down into a slot, but missed). doesn't really bother me when climbing, but is definitely more painful afterward. I had assumed it'd clear up gradually, but it seems to have been unchanged for a while now. Thanks for any advice!
Hi, started a new thread but looks like I should've asked here. Excuse copy and paste:'getting on for a month ago, I did a little bridge jump and, because the pool was quite shallow, I used my arms to slow me down more quickly on hitting the water. I've done plenty of this sort of thing (DWS, etc.) in the past and never had any issues but I seem to have caused problems in both shoulders this time. Annoyingly, slightly adrenalised at the time, I did the jump a couple of times without realising I was doing much damage. Fortunately, straight afterwards I sensibly went home and rested them I I got on the most shouldery route at my grade in the area - crux all out jump into reverse crucifix I'm sure other people must've suffered this from DWS if you don't tuck your arms right and the water rags them up? Anyway, I would trawl the net first before asking but I have a lousy connection at the moment so, any recommendations on what I should be doing to sort them? They've improved slowly just with stretches, press-ups and and theraband stuff based on basic knowledge and intuition but thought it worth an ask for more advice if it's a common(ish) one. It actually hurt a fair bit to lift and cross my arms in front of me at first but I can climb and day to day stuff fine now. Breaking the lock from fully straight arm seems to be the main problem area and can sometimes sense an unpleasant pinching effect when hanging from fully locked arms....... Standard rotator cuff malfunction? For what it's worth, I think the water jump just precipitated an underlying problem/weakness/inbalance so keen to try and get a good solution. Sorry, rambling. Any help much appreciated.'
Quote from: Duma on July 27, 2013, 02:57:08 amHi, I've got an issue with the proximal interphalangeal joint on my right middle finger - It's tender to touch on the top of the joint (back hand side), and more so after climbing. I think the issue started on the 1st of June with an impact on the end of the finger (down the direction of the finger) when it was straight. (I was trying to drop my hand down into a slot, but missed). doesn't really bother me when climbing, but is definitely more painful afterward. I had assumed it'd clear up gradually, but it seems to have been unchanged for a while now. Thanks for any advice!Hi, sounds as if you compressed the joint and probably had an imflammatory reaction at the time. It definately sounds more joint than tendon hence you can still climb. Make sure you have full movement in both flexion (bending) and extension (straightening) and compare it to the same finger on the other hand. Keep stretching it and it will settle with time. These type of joint injuries can take months. Hope this helps. Regards Matt
Hi Steve,I've recently been on a trip where I did alot of steep ascents and descents without any falls/trips etc, since coming back the ball of my right foot feels tender and while climbing at the wall i've noticed a pain that feels like it's going diagnoally across the top of the same foot when any sort of twist is applied through that foot. I don't remember any specific problems when I was walking and I only noticed it getting off the plane. Any ideas? Sorry I can't be more specific I dont know much about these things cheers,Guy
Hi SteveI'm certainly no spritely youth, am not particularly injured, but have just felt creaky in the fingers all of this year. Have had many finger injuries over the years and maybe the creakiness is just to be expected. there is no pain or discomfort when climbing or performing other activities. the only real change to my routine this year over previous has been religiously cold-water-treatmenting my hands each evening, but the creakiness preceeded the cold watering.Any ideas, is this just to be expected as the body gets older?CheersRoddy
Quote from: rodma on August 09, 2013, 12:32:09 pmHi SteveI'm certainly no spritely youth, am not particularly injured, but have just felt creaky in the fingers all of this year. Have had many finger injuries over the years and maybe the creakiness is just to be expected. there is no pain or discomfort when climbing or performing other activities. the only real change to my routine this year over previous has been religiously cold-water-treatmenting my hands each evening, but the creakiness preceeded the cold watering.Any ideas, is this just to be expected as the body gets older?CheersRoddyHi Roddy, I would recommend hot/warm water rather than cold and 'creakiness' could be either tendons or joint noise. Nothing to worry about except keep the hands moving and stretch out all your finger joints prior to climbing. regards Matt
Quote from: GuyVG on August 09, 2013, 11:16:23 amHi Steve,I've recently been on a trip where I did alot of steep ascents and descents without any falls/trips etc, since coming back the ball of my right foot feels tender and while climbing at the wall i've noticed a pain that feels like it's going diagnoally across the top of the same foot when any sort of twist is applied through that foot. I don't remember any specific problems when I was walking and I only noticed it getting off the plane. Any ideas? Sorry I can't be more specific I dont know much about these things cheers,GuyHi Guy, the problem has probably occurred due to the descending more so than the ascending. You would have been braking and putting more weight through the front of the foot. If you were also walking daily you would have had cumulative loading of the tissues each day and doing more than you would in an average week. It will get easier but perhaps go for lower grade climbs with bigger foot holds while the forefoot is recovering. Perhaps try some lower impact activities such as cycling to get the foot moving and not be in sustained positions.Hope this helps.Matt
Quote from: HPclinic on August 04, 2013, 05:52:44 pmQuote from: Duma on July 27, 2013, 02:57:08 amHi, I've got an issue with the proximal interphalangeal joint on my right middle finger - It's tender to touch on the top of the joint (back hand side), and more so after climbing. I think the issue started on the 1st of June with an impact on the end of the finger (down the direction of the finger) when it was straight. (I was trying to drop my hand down into a slot, but missed). doesn't really bother me when climbing, but is definitely more painful afterward. I had assumed it'd clear up gradually, but it seems to have been unchanged for a while now. Thanks for any advice!Hi, sounds as if you compressed the joint and probably had an imflammatory reaction at the time. It definately sounds more joint than tendon hence you can still climb. Make sure you have full movement in both flexion (bending) and extension (straightening) and compare it to the same finger on the other hand. Keep stretching it and it will settle with time. These type of joint injuries can take months. Hope this helps. Regards MattThanks Matt, I do seem to have full movement, though it's a bit sore in full flexion. Will do the stretching. Is climbing on it likely to be doing any harm? Seemed worse this weekend after a fairly intense week, so am probably going to lay off for the next few days and see if it improves.Thanks again. (How is HPclinic only at +4 karma - this thread is an amazing resource!)
Hi, I've got a shoulder injury which I'd appreciate your advice on.At present I have a significant weakness (and mild pain) when externally rotating the forearm (i.e. during one of the classic theraband rotator cuff exercises). If I perform the scarf test I have significant pain on the outside of my shoulder (Deltoid area). This is particularly painful if, during scarf test, I raise or lower the elbow against resistance.Massaging the pectoral muscle (pec minor area) does offer some short term reduction in pain of scarf test and increases strength of external rotation.Had this injury for 3-4 months. Symptoms have eased but now seem very resistant to clearing up fully.No hard (or even intermediate) climbing has been possible during this period.Any ideas on how I can help finally clear this up?