HI,I don't know if you're doing it this week or not, but thought I'd post up on the off chance.For the last 3 weeks or so I've had a burning pain on and off between my shoulder blades. Sometimes it's slightly more to the right, but is generally fairly central and affects most of my upper back. It's not stopped me climbing, and climbing is actually one of the times it hurts the least. I've done a bit of research online to see what it could be, and originally was just make sure to stretch daily with some shoulder rotations added in with a very light resistance band. I've been taken anti-inflamatories (naproxen) and cut my climbing down to one session a week, with less power based problems. At first I thought all this was helping, but it has gotten much worse again and I found some other places where it said stretching the muscles out might be bad for it! So now I'm confused, in pain, and could use some help!Cheers,Tyco
Hi,the first thing to comment on is that if it feels easier when you climb it is probably more linked to what you are doing in the daytime. If the work you do is more sedentary/sititing then try and avoid sustatined positions by regular standing and moving. As you mentioned the right side is worse take care with excessive mouse use and don't be reaching too far forward. We would advice to continue climbing but at a lower level for a couple of weeks. Back off the streching as that tends to increase focus on the area, go for more rotation based activites such as boxing,swimming or basic trunk rotations. Hope this helps, let us know.regards Matt and Ian
Ian Thanks for the detailed report and I would agree you don't have a local elbow problem. It could be from the shoulder but from what you are saying with the medial scapular pain you have a neck involvement. Also the medial pain (golfers elbow) would suggest referred pain into this region. I assume its your right elbow so check if your right shoulder is low and causing stress on the neck(and shoulder). I would elevate the shoulder up (shoulder shrugs are a good exercise for this) and stretch the right lat dori muscle. Stop the rotor cuff exercises and stretch your neck if it is stiff. Do that for a couple of weeks but keep climbing and see if that helps. See Matts video on elbow rehab coming soon to the site. Tell me how you get on. Steve
Quote from: webbo on June 12, 2013, 12:14:29 pmI have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.This has caused some debate between us. Try calf stretches 2 or 3 times a day and some local massage before climbing and report back. You are right to relieve the pressure on it as it maybe compression of a small nerve on the outside of the ankle.
I have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.
I pulled my lower back out (a vertebrae or two above my arse I reckon) 3.5 weeks ago doing some fairly stupid indoor bouldering (laybacking with my feet above me). It was fairly painful getting about for the first few days(co-codamol, ibugel, hot showers). I had to stop running and climbing. Did my first bit of climbing (some outdoor bouldering) after two weeks as it had been feeling pretty ropey up til then. I've been out a few times now and it's allowing me to climb, and seems to appreciate being mobilized, but I can still feel it a bit both when climbing and not. I've only tried a gentle run but it made it a bit sore. I've also sat in the sauna a few times, which makes it feel awesome!I've been doing a few happy/angry cats followed by lying on my back, stretching out straight then raising my knees and dropping them to each side (30 secs in each position, just to stretch out), and finally scrunching/holding them in close. Have finished with some child poses for a while - but I still can't get fully into child pose without pulling on the lower back uncomfortably - instead I'm resting my arms on the floor and not dropping my head quite down.Basically, it does seem to be improving slowly, but I was wondering if you could recommend anything to help get it going again, and to strengthen it once it's recovered.Background info:The only core I do at the moment is the shoulder-lock press-ups John Ostrovskis gets all climbers to do - which have been great for my shoulder injuries. They work my abs and lower back a bit due to holding in that position for a while - so I normally do the above stretches routinely afterwards.I'm a 6'4 97kg punter. cheers guys
Quote from: HPclinic on June 14, 2013, 01:05:47 pmQuote from: webbo on June 12, 2013, 12:14:29 pmI have a problem that's been troubling me for a couple of months in my left heel. Its on the outside slightly to the left of the Achilles. Initially there was slight swelling but that's gone down with icing. If I stretch it by keeping my heel flat on the floor and bend my knee forward over my toes its tight and painful. The main issue is climbing shoes either exacerbate it or caused it due to the pressure of the rand in this area. I cut the rand on an old pair of shoes and generally I can climb with no discomfort and not much soreness later. however if I wear my muria velcros, tight and down toed I have to keep taking them off to relieve the mild discomfort and it will be sore the next day although this will ease with stretching and movement.I did see my GP and he just said take over the counter Anti Inflammatorys which eased it in the initial stages.This has caused some debate between us. Try calf stretches 2 or 3 times a day and some local massage before climbing and report back. You are right to relieve the pressure on it as it maybe compression of a small nerve on the outside of the ankle.Progress report.Doing the above as directed. I am still experiecing some stiffness and slight aching first thing on a morning and after prelonged sitting. I can now wear climbing shoes that before were too painful although there is slight discomfort but I don't get the pain and aching the following day.I still don't have flexability I had before depite the stretching.
Hi there,I'm looking for some help with my 'sore arm' issue! For a few years now (particularly bad flare-up last year and most recent case this week, hence the post) my right bicep has been in slight on and off pain after a session in which I have had to lash for holds whilst tired. This only ever happens with the right arm; the pain is where the bi meets the shoulder/chest muscle and comes and goes with body position. It doesn't seem to effect my function too much, I went climbing yesterday and there was no pain when climbing and I didn't feel any weaker than normal! There is a very subtle bruise in the location I described and the easiest way to bring on the symptoms is to pinch the top of the bi.One way to describe the sensation is that I feel is as though I need to stretch the bicep out, like a tightness along with the slight soreness pain. Odd I know!When I am not having a bout of this I still notice some very mild symptoms occasionally.I've had quite a lot of deep massage and needling on it but the condition still returned this week!Any pointers/advice would be much appreciated.Rich
I've got a small ganglion cyst on the palm side of my left wrist,(going down of its own accord) second time I've had it, no obvious pattern with onset. No real pain, but wrist feels a little weaker than usual (that should read even weaker). Are there any preventative exercises worth doing? I did break my wrist a few times from 16 to early 20's but it seemed to recover well and hasn't bothered me in the 20 years since (apart from these 2 ganglion thingies). Thanks Rich
Hi,Normally I just read around for the hilarity but thought I'd ask a question just to be sure...I've been bouldering for about 8 weeks and have made some progress (i.e. I can nor describe it as 'bouldering' rather than just 'leaning against start holds on a boulder'). Recently I've had a dull twinge in my left shoulder.My left arm feels weak and hard to lift especially when I reach across my body (towards my right shoulder) the pain runs from the top of my shoulder to the top of my bicep?The pain is noticeable bit nothing that I would normally worry about, and I seem to be able to climb fine with it? Just a dull ache that lingers...Any ideas? Particularly if its something I might aggravate further by continuing to climb? Great resource BTW.Cheers.
Quote from: Charlton Chestwig on July 05, 2013, 01:48:48 pmHi there,I'm looking for some help with my 'sore arm' issue! For a few years now (particularly bad flare-up last year and most recent case this week, hence the post) my right bicep has been in slight on and off pain after a session in which I have had to lash for holds whilst tired. This only ever happens with the right arm; the pain is where the bi meets the shoulder/chest muscle and comes and goes with body position. It doesn't seem to effect my function too much, I went climbing yesterday and there was no pain when climbing and I didn't feel any weaker than normal! There is a very subtle bruise in the location I described and the easiest way to bring on the symptoms is to pinch the top of the bi.One way to describe the sensation is that I feel is as though I need to stretch the bicep out, like a tightness along with the slight soreness pain. Odd I know!When I am not having a bout of this I still notice some very mild symptoms occasionally.I've had quite a lot of deep massage and needling on it but the condition still returned this week!Any pointers/advice would be much appreciated.RichHi rich The biceps does not seem to be a problem if climbing is not a problem (hence why local rubbing does not help) The muscle is reacting to nerve compression in the upper arm. I suspect you are pulling the shoulder forward (protracting) to achieve the static holds. Also ensure you are not stressing your neck when you climb by leading forward with your head. It's more complicated than a local muscle injury so aim to change the shoulder position and check the neck position. Try this but you might need a full assessment. Steve and Matt.
Quote from: Luke Owens on June 07, 2013, 04:41:14 pmGreat idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,I assume you are right handed?You've tried the local things which dont work so it is probably referred from the shouder/neck area maybe from overuse of a mouse at work??Worth trying swapping hands on the mouse and get your arm above your head during the working day and report back.We are producing a video on elbow rehab and you may get some ideas from that.HTH
Great idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,