the Jared Roth "Sick crimp strength" ProTips was a load of useless bollocks. It was basically him (who climbs like F8c+) saying " i get sick crimp strength by doing one-arm hangs on crimps" then shows a video of him doing one-arm hangs (half lock) on a campus board then casually swings round swapping arm without coming to the floor. Well that all very well if you're already strong enough to do one arm hangs.
be careful doing weighted hangs on "doorframes", since most likely the architrave will only be nailed on.
How do I get to the point where I can do one on something approximating a small hold (i.e. a one and a half pad crimp)?
I think if you've got injury prone fingers it'd be better to use a bigger edge with weights but if they never feel tweaky get on small one. Defo a brilliant exercise for finger stength.
when deadhanging people say don't hang on a dead straight arm. How bent should it be, fully locked off or just a little bent?