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Climbing at a wall with no set problems. (Read 6329 times)

Fultonius

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Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:06:41 pm
Ok folks, the wall I'm climbing at just now does not have any set problems. I've only really climbed in places that do.

Any tips for setting problems?  The other issue is it's a quiet wall and I'm not always down with people I know, so it's not always easy to watch people on other "problems" and try them.

Cheers.

Mike Tyson

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#1 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:12:52 pm
We used to enjoy a good game of add on at the old Keswick wall but it usually required more than one person i'm afraid! Maybe just get talking to the locals?

Fultonius

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#2 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:26:12 pm
We used to enjoy a good game of add on at the old Keswick wall but it usually required more than one person i'm afraid! Maybe just get talking to the locals?

J’essaye, mais mon français ce n'est pas assez bonne! Actually, often there's no one climbing on the steeper wall - it's not a busy place.

andy_e

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#3 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:27:27 pm
Just go skiing.

Fultonius

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#4 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:31:18 pm
Just go skiing.

Then I'll end up all legs and no forearms!  (I try to climb in the afternoons after skiing rather than hitting the après ski in Chambre Neuf...)

Fiend

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#5 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 01:42:20 pm
Pull hard on small holds, HTH.

Fultonius

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tesla

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#7 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 03:38:19 pm
You need one of these, although it's probably going to be hard to hold on and spin it at the same time:

a dense loner

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#8 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 04:50:21 pm
Choose moves that you know ure shit at and concentrate on these

Fultonius

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#9 Re: Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 23, 2013, 06:10:47 pm
Choose moves that you know ure shit at and concentrate on these

Just back from a session. Pretty much did just that. Worked on poor footholds (slopey screw ons) that required tension to stick.

Also just sat and looked at the wall and picked a hold that I felt like incorporating into a problem (this itme was a big flat rail set at an angle on a 30 degree section of the wall) with a small foothold to make an awkward rockover up to a pinch. Worked out a way to climb into it and then a finish. The first half is quite good but the second needs work. Managed it though, so probaby not hard enough...

biscuit

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Take an allen key and make your own ?

If it's that quiet you could get away with it.

Plattsy

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A couple of things I've tried in similar situations. Mainly setting rules for myself.

Split the wall into sections. If uniformly panelled I'd try to climb a problem which stuck to that vertical section of panels. Straight up problems. If it was too easy I'd swop the biggest hold on the problem for something smaller and repeat (swopping the biggest hold) until I had something hard and fun-ish (I'm no problem setter).

Corner to corner problems. Depends on the wall again. Corner to corner on the works comp wall would kill me for example so I'd probably have to split a wall that size into logical sections and work bottom left to top right (or vice versa) on that section. Swopping holds as above.

Sticking to a particular colour of hold if possible.

These have worked with varying degress of success.

tomtom

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#12 Climbing at a wall with no set problems.
February 28, 2013, 08:48:49 am
It really helps (I find) to climb wih someone else or befriend someone at the wall - the game of make a problem for the other person to do works well..

Luke Owens

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Choose holds that you feel are your weakest grip type. This is probably better than climbing already set problems as you can be a specific as you like.

a dense loner

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Why would you befriend someone at a wall?

slackline

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Why would you befriend someone at a wall?


the game of make a problem for the other person to do works well..

SA Chris

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I remember the first bouldering wall I went to all climbing holds were in one colour; a mungy grey / brown. We had a great tool for making up problems; imagination.

Kids today don't know they're born etc.

And I would +1 on Andy's post; go skiing, have a beer or two, hang out with the wierd and wonderful folk of Cham.

fried

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Same as, I never tired of Fort Purbrook when I was a youth. There was a set of problems that had been marked but they hadn't changed in years. I still miss Bendcrete walls.

Jaspersharpe

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I'm amazed. Have you never climbed on a board?

Choose some holds you can't climb between and start trying. Once you climb between them choose the next hold. Repeat.

Then try to link the moves together until you get from the bottom to the top in one go. This is called training. It's also quite good fun.

People get paid for this shit don't they.

gme

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 :agree:

Without getting all monty python and "when i was a lad".  This is what every wall was like until 10 years ago.

FFS use your imagination.

I thought this was a piss take until i read it.

Durbs

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Or you could try the "elimination" variation of +1/+2.

Choose a vertical (or diagonal) set of panels, identify start and finish holds. Climb it any way you can. Next go, all hand holds you used are out. Repeat until you can't get up it anymore. You can also eliminate foot holds depending on the route.

To make it easier - a mini-piece of finger tape on all holds used makes it easier when mid-route.

Fultonius

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I'm amazed. Have you never climbed on a board?


Not so much. GCC used to have a 45* board but I used to always get really bored unless there was a group of folk trying "problems". I guess I'm just not that imaginative when it comes to "inventing" problems.

:agree:

Without getting all monty python and "when i was a lad".  This is what every wall was like until 10 years ago.


Aaaand, I started climbing around 10 years ago.

 

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