[hobblingfool]

Does anyone on there have 1st hand experience of using the Crusher Holds Matrix fingerboard and would you recommend it? I have seen one in the depot shop and it looks good, maybe better than the beastmaker for the number of various crimps? If I’m going to get shut down on a boulder problem it is usually because I can’t crimp hard; anything open hand at my grade I’m fine with so don’t need to specifically train slopers at the moment. Thinking of buying one to help get me from the 7A/B range to regularly getting up 7B and beyond.

[andy_e]

It's endorsed by Haston... Looks like a really good board though. I've got a Crusher mega rail and it's ace.

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/12/crusher-matrix-board-training-by-stevie.html

[Stubbs]

There's one up in the fingerboard room a the depot, it's not in use at the mo, but I'm sure if you ask they'll let you have a hang.  For me the slots are too small and the edges not as bevelled as the BM, and as such I found it less comfortable.

Rather than having a range of crimps, training intensity can be altered by increasing (extra weight) or decreasing (bungee/pulleys, etc,) hanging weight.

[marcpontin]

I've got one and love it. The vertical slots are superb for half crimping with a thumb catch on which feels really stable for me and un-tweaky. Slopers are a bit juggy and the crimps are left pretty sharp so you can sand them down to suit yourself.

[hobblingfool]

Thanks for the responses; it was a fleeting visit to Leeds so not going to be able to try one myself. Haston’s endorsement is a plus. I do sometimes add weight when using the fingerboard but not sure my elbows appreciate it. Bit of sanding might be worth considering, especially for the 2 thinnest crimps high up on each side, I seem to remember these looked quite sharp. Cheers

[Probes]

hobblingfool... you need to bear (grrr) in mind that the Matrix in the depot was about Matrix no. 5 and the design has changed quite a bit since then. The dinks have gone from the bottom and are now open small hangs, and the crimps get a good bit of sanding now, as yes they were pretty sharp originally. With that in mind though the outside small crimps are 10mm at there deepest and about 7 along the flat, so what ever happens its small and its gonna bite a bit when youre boneying down.
Yeah Stevie Haston is made up with it, a great review which I'm chuffed about, not sure what to make of him doing 1500 pull ups on it though...     

here's a pick of how it looks now...
http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboards/matrix

[hobblingfool]

Thanks for all the info; I think I will be purchasing one of your lovely boards in the near future. Looks like a really versatile well balanced fingerboard. Cheers