[a dense loner]

since i knew everyone was in wales, on friday went to wimberry wi jim. on sat went to wimberry wi biatch, she walked dog n i climbed, 2 birds wi 1 stone. on sun went to widdop wi jim, worm crew n some boys n girl from nottingham. good wkend apart from splittin tip last thing at widdop!  :cry: hopin weather stays crappy for nother few days so not tempted to go out  :shock:

[cofe]

since i knew everyone was in wales, on friday went to wimberry wi jim. on sat went to wimberry wi biatch, she walked dog n i climbed, 2 birds wi 1 stone. on sun went to widdop wi jim, worm crew n some boys n girl from nottingham. good wkend apart from splittin tip last thing at widdop!  :cry: hopin weather stays crappy for nother few days so not tempted to go out  :shock:

ever been to a crag that doesn't start with a 'W'....?  widiculous idea i know :wink:

[dobbin]

wheres all you Gs getting the alps guide from? do i need to get the 4-11 from barnsey?

From Edge shop dude. The guy did say I snaffled the last one though (that might have been a LIE)

[Doylo]

What didn't you like about them?

galt-y-ogof - theres a cracking V2 slab on it, but other than that i didn't really rate is cos everything seems to be off ultra-low starts generally with a block or 2 in the way, not to mention most stuff is hard - even the "V5" ramp seesm a tad misgraded compared to the V6s we'd been flashing earlier that day on the hillside!

caseg fraith - a bit better than the last place - the main arete is very good even if i did have to resort to a ridiculous sequence. just a shame its got that "back yard" feel, bits of old lino all over the place, and the steep problems area  bit scrappy.

dunno if its cos i'd previiously been to places like caseg groove, porth ysgo and sheep pen, or whether i was expecting too much, or over hyped or soemthing but i was very deffinetly in dissapointmentsville arizona!  :crying:

Ogwen is mainly small areas with several gems dotted about if you know where to look, places like gallt yr ogof and caseg ffraith are not major venues but have a few worthwile problems, same as clogwyn yr taryw, george's crack etc... Unfortunately the best stuff is pretty hard so ain't gonna be to everyones taste. I can see why you boys are jibing it, maybe it is overhyped buts thats just how enthusiastic the locals are. Personally i think the rocks lush and the problems good.

[tommytwotone]

word.

went to Froggatt and spat some hardcore gangsta lyrics at Tody's Wall, messed about on that area underneath and then went over to Joe's area to push the Uni Groups / Downhill Racer topropers about  :roll:

[dave]

don't get me wrong, i'm not slagging them off per se, more that we made a wack choice of where to go. i think if i were local i could get into galt...but I'm not. we should have walked up to animal magnetism really but it was too late by then.

[Doylo]

I agree there probably is a difference between good local venues and good 'visitor' venues. I wouldn't bother with the walk up to Animal mag unless your in good spirits either, its a bit of a trek and theres not much, maybe another 'local' place.

[cofe]

next day trip i reckon we hit:

elephantshitus
mallory boulder
clogwyn y tarwhateva

what say you chris doyle? local or schmocal choice of venues?

[a dense loner]

ever been to a crag that doesn't start with a 'W'....? widiculous idea i know

scary thing is i can't be arsed goin out friday nites now cos am addicted to a couple of hours of jonathan woss  :D

[dave]

I'm feeling

elephantarse'ole
cromlech roadsiderz
pillbox

[dave]

scary thing is i can't be arsed goin out friday nites now cos am addicted to a couple of hours of jonathan woss  :D

come one now, you're really watching it for 4 poofs and a piano aren't you? Ooohhh mince.

[Doylo]

next day trip i reckon we hit:

elephantshitus
mallory boulder
clogwyn y tarwhateva

what say you chris doyle? local or schmocal choice of venues?

I'd say maybe local, i suppose anyone who's visiting another area primarily just wants a concentration of good problems with a few harder ones to have a bash at. In wales this leaves you with the pass, porth ysgo type venues. You boys have already hit these places and sampled the delights and now you starting to check out smaller venues. Those 3 venues you've listed are brilliant, all in very different settings, different rock types. Elaphantitus- its very cool but apart from the V6 the other problems are not really do-able in a session for most. Mallory is similar, awesome place setting etc.. but epic walk and not much to go at, the v4s piss and the v7's pretty darn stiff. Clogwyn yr tarw has got a bit more to go at but still only really a few gems. So basically you gonna have to start picking of gems, moving on to another area etc.. Its a different ball game if your a local as you can project stuff and keep going back till you've nailed it! Anyway what the fuck just go everywhere and if you don't like it don't go back!  

[Doylo]

I think you boys should also go and pay homage to the Plas-y-brenin boulder, dead small and possibly another 'local' one but has some lush holds that are a pleasure to pull on (and i normally avoid slopers like the plague!).

[cofe]

j'adore le sloper. good knowledge dude - we'll be over on another day hit pretty soon - or in june - tonight there's a solar eclipse of the moon - did you used to watch boon? - i wash my hair with vidal sassoon

[al]

had a sunnyside session down at gardoms south, with my old wrinklymanc mates - had a team ascent of that thomas de gay arete thing up the pillar - how good is that route.........had a team failure on barry sheen - how reachy is that route(or do we miss some crucial trickery? any advice would be welcome) - also up to the far reaches of burbage south getting stuck in to those micro classics (john's rib thing went ok - not sure if this is 7b+, think little rascal is harder?) - mega spot though.

[squeek]

Spent the weekend bumbling up routes.  :tom:
Hopefully it will stop raining sometime this week for an
Earl mission.

[Stu Littlefair]

Can you all just fucking stop it.  :cuss:  :cuss:

It's May now and I haven't fucking pulled down since early february due to twatted fingers. If you all keep posting about who did what and good weather and new venues I'm going to explode, and you won't like it.

Fuck.

[cofe]

will we get covered in custard?

[Stu Littlefair]

Nah, I haven't been full of custard since that one time in Paris.

Right now I'm mainly full of newly-born fat and decomposing tendon tissue, which makes a fucking mess of the wallpaper, let me tell you.

So, if it's all the same by you lot, can you just stop climbing till I'm fixed? It'll only be a couple of months now...

[MrBlue]

went up to good ol' burbage and played on some easy problems to test the water with my dodgy shoulder...mostly v1s and 2s, cos i'm rock 'ard   although the cobra and the cobra mantel are quite nice problems that managed to go first try!

broke my pod coming off some v6 next to wednesday climb, so now i'm going to have to get a new mat. i might add i could only do the first two moves, we musn't get any ideas i'm actually any good at this bouldering lark :wink:

[dave]

fucking hell how do you break a pod mat?? :shock:

[cofe]

[MrBlue]

fucking hell how do you break a pod mat?? :shock:

feck knows...

fell off, stood up and lifted my mat up to put it back in the right place and noticed a lovely square hole in it - must have punctured it on the pointy rock when i came off...

 

[hardtofollow]

Got dragged to pembroke. I got pumped seconding an E1 and scared by big holds movin on a 3 star VS!

sorted it out yesterday though and got the buckstone dyno after 2 years of pittiful slappin  :D

[Jim]

as dense said , we'se went to wimbery fri and widdop sun. managed to put 3 holes in my fingers at widdop. getting close to the break on fight on black, will be going back early one morning to get some good condition and tick it (hopefully) getting phyched for earl when my tips are healed. fancy havin a lakes, wales and southern sandstone trip sometime soon.