[Pantontino]

So what did you get up to? I believe there was a team of Sheffield boys knocking about on my manor. What scalps did you take home with you?

I made it down to Angel Bay on Saturday (as did about 15 other people!).
Then went up on top of Little Orme to see Katz' new problem and to re-acquaint myself with the desperate, but utterly wonderful Rampant Rabbit.

Tonight made it out late up the Pass - perfect conditions and a few locals about. I heard it was very busy on Saturday.

[Pantontino]

Forgot to mention that Katz climbed the stunning project wall at Carreg Bengam Bach: highball V8 or E6/7 apparently.

Malc was also in the cave trying the Lou Ferrino - Trigger Cut link.

[ian h]

weather was pretty good sunday down my neck of the woods.  working away on a few bits and bobs at bowles and high rocks.

unfortunatly by the time i got myself out of bed monday the weather had crapped out.

[dave]

satdy:

got into the pass along with more or less everyone else in the english speaking world. went up to utopia and wavelength - very good boulders. did most tof the standard stuff bar wavelength itself - shame about that rock. andy was close to love pie. king of drunks is good, think we all flashed it. also boysens groove - thats good, and better than it looks. went up to meadow did killerweed. thought it was crap really.

got lunch (by then about 1600) in capel curig. then recharged we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either. went home.

monday:

the tor - good cool conditions

not a bad weekend, seen some new places. pulled on some holds.

[Greg C]

Saturday night - Got back from Switzerland.

Sunday - Went to Woodwell and did Hybrid Moments...at last!! :rocker: also did Art Of Self Destruction again which was nice.

Monday - Woodwell again I'm afraid, as other than Sunday had'nt really climbed there all year. Did some variations on some old problems which were really cool nice to see it all dry at last  :D

[Doylo]

Saturday night - Got back from Switzerland.

Sunday - Went to Woodwell and did Hybrid Moments...at last!! :rocker: also did Art Of Self Destruction again which was nice.

Monday - Woodwell again I'm afraid, as other than Sunday had'nt really climbed there all year. Did some variations on some old problems which were really cool nice to see it all dry at last  :D

Yo Greg the stamina gods must of been doing there thing on sunday, i iced my long term project too, staminaband at the tor! Where did u go in switzerland? How was it?

[Adam Lincoln]

Bout time Chris! Nice one  :rocker:

Into PUTP now then? ;-)

[Doylo]

Forgot to mention that Katz climbed the stunning project wall at Carreg Bengam Bach: highball V8 or E6/7 apparently.

Malc was also in the cave trying the Lou Ferrino - Trigger Cut link.

Hey Si i heard a rumour of some strong famous types up at the mallory boulder at the weekend. Do you know what went on?

[Doylo]

Bout time Chris! Nice one  :rocker:

Into PUTP now then? ;-)

Well its only 5 more moves i spose  

[Adam Lincoln]

Did the trad thing on the weekend, then some Devon bouldering yesterday. Fook Devon grades are hard. Think there are two grades. V6 and V10!

[cofe]

just super chillin on the hillside in the pass on saturday. very nice.

same stuff as dave really - had to 'work' killerweed after flashing K.O.D. and doing the witch n stuff   thought it was an alright problem though.

Greg - we might day trip up to the sarth lakes in a couple of weeks - you around?

[Bonjoy]

Satd'y - Wavelength did most of the classics up to V6 plus The Witch (and her knickers).  Like Dave and co failed on Wavelength itself. Went down the hill did Fear of a Sloping Planet and tried Jerry's Roof. Good company, weather and problems :D .

 Sund'y - Did Jerry's Roof, thanks in part to some sneeky kneebar beta off strong local (cheers Mr Noden). Went up to Sheep Pen boulders, did classics up to V6 plus DDT Toe Dragon and the Pinch (brilliant problem).

 Mond'y - Pottered around obscurer corners of Stanage. Did Iain's prow just right of Central Buttress direct (between Cock o the rock and Causeway slabs) utter class, one of the best 7a/V6 in the peak :!:

[Bonjoy]

:up:  Good effort Chris!

[Greg C]

Reply Chris - Hey Chris, good effort with Stamina Band!
Went to Cresciano and Chironico. Been to to Cresciano before but was my first visit to Chironico and thought it was pretty sweet. I had the new alps bouldering guide (soon to be available from Beta Climbing) which is really good written by Harry Roker (well known German beast) and he has sorted out all the over graded problems, the grading is now fairly uniform and about right every where I went.

Reply Cofe - Yeah should be about, drop us a line when closer to the time.

[Pantontino]

Chris, how hard is Stamina Band rated - a big number I presume? No wonder you pissed that link into Johnny's Wall. :wink:

When you say 'strong famous types', who do you mean? I'll make some calls, check my Mallory Boulder web cam and get back with the full story.

[Doylo]

Greg: Yeah that guide looks good, theres no other guide to Chironico so thats pretty handy.

Si: V11 i think. The owen spoke to Dyer and he said Vickers, Parry and Andy Earl were up there. Hopefully its just a vicious rumour  :wink:

[dobbin]

I have also managed to procure one of Mr Roker's guides for this summers pilgrimage to the alps. So, you all went to Wales then? I thought the Peak was quiet.

Friday - BBG North, Sat - Stoney (Tom's roof), Sun - Matrix.

Good work the Doyle on finishing everyone's arch nemesis.

[Pantontino]

Don't they know, these are localprojects for local people!

Is nothing sacred these days?

[Doylo]

I have also managed to procure one of Mr Roker's guides for this summers pilgrimage to the alps. So, you all went to Wales then? I thought the Peak was quiet.

Friday - BBG North, Sat - Stoney (Tom's roof), Sun - Matrix.

Good work the Doyle on finishing everyone's arch nemesis.

Hey Ben we should hook up for another training session sometime, give us a text if your keen anytime.

[dave]

wheres all you Gs getting the alps guide from? do i need to get the 4-11 from barnsey?

[Doylo]

Don't they know, these are localprojects for local people!

Is nothing sacred these days?

I know its scandalous.

Dave you could get the 4-11 from here:

http://home.t-online.de/home/hary.roeker/chiri.htm

Or you could just get one from the edge if Barnesy's sorted it. He's best of chums with the beast Roeker.

[dave]

word i'll se if barnsey has got some first cuz that'll be quicker. psyched.

[Bubba]

we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either.

What didn't you like about them?

I was nursing a bit of a sprained ankle so no bouldering for me, but did some stuff on the wall, went for a walk down Dovedale and did some DIY.

[cofe]

we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either.

What didn't you like about them?

I was nursing a bit of a sprained ankle so no bouldering for me, but did some stuff on the wall, went for a walk down Dovedale and did some DIY.

gallt yr ogof is a bit hardcore and bit awkward to get to the starts of the easier stuff, caseg fraith is just a dive - although nodder's new V10 is the illest thing i've ever seen. it'd be amazing to see a video of him icing it....

[dave]

What didn't you like about them?

galt-y-ogof - theres a cracking V2 slab on it, but other than that i didn't really rate is cos everything seems to be off ultra-low starts generally with a block or 2 in the way, not to mention most stuff is hard - even the "V5" ramp seesm a tad misgraded compared to the V6s we'd been flashing earlier that day on the hillside!

caseg fraith - a bit better than the last place - the main arete is very good even if i did have to resort to a ridiculous sequence. just a shame its got that "back yard" feel, bits of old lino all over the place, and the steep problems area  bit scrappy.

dunno if its cos i'd previiously been to places like caseg groove, porth ysgo and sheep pen, or whether i was expecting too much, or over hyped or soemthing but i was very deffinetly in dissapointmentsville arizona!  :crying:

[a dense loner]

since i knew everyone was in wales, on friday went to wimberry wi jim. on sat went to wimberry wi biatch, she walked dog n i climbed, 2 birds wi 1 stone. on sun went to widdop wi jim, worm crew n some boys n girl from nottingham. good wkend apart from splittin tip last thing at widdop!  :cry: hopin weather stays crappy for nother few days so not tempted to go out  :shock:

[cofe]

since i knew everyone was in wales, on friday went to wimberry wi jim. on sat went to wimberry wi biatch, she walked dog n i climbed, 2 birds wi 1 stone. on sun went to widdop wi jim, worm crew n some boys n girl from nottingham. good wkend apart from splittin tip last thing at widdop!  :cry: hopin weather stays crappy for nother few days so not tempted to go out  :shock:

ever been to a crag that doesn't start with a 'W'....?  widiculous idea i know :wink:

[dobbin]

wheres all you Gs getting the alps guide from? do i need to get the 4-11 from barnsey?

From Edge shop dude. The guy did say I snaffled the last one though (that might have been a LIE)

[Doylo]

What didn't you like about them?

galt-y-ogof - theres a cracking V2 slab on it, but other than that i didn't really rate is cos everything seems to be off ultra-low starts generally with a block or 2 in the way, not to mention most stuff is hard - even the "V5" ramp seesm a tad misgraded compared to the V6s we'd been flashing earlier that day on the hillside!

caseg fraith - a bit better than the last place - the main arete is very good even if i did have to resort to a ridiculous sequence. just a shame its got that "back yard" feel, bits of old lino all over the place, and the steep problems area  bit scrappy.

dunno if its cos i'd previiously been to places like caseg groove, porth ysgo and sheep pen, or whether i was expecting too much, or over hyped or soemthing but i was very deffinetly in dissapointmentsville arizona!  :crying:

Ogwen is mainly small areas with several gems dotted about if you know where to look, places like gallt yr ogof and caseg ffraith are not major venues but have a few worthwile problems, same as clogwyn yr taryw, george's crack etc... Unfortunately the best stuff is pretty hard so ain't gonna be to everyones taste. I can see why you boys are jibing it, maybe it is overhyped buts thats just how enthusiastic the locals are. Personally i think the rocks lush and the problems good.

[tommytwotone]

word.

went to Froggatt and spat some hardcore gangsta lyrics at Tody's Wall, messed about on that area underneath and then went over to Joe's area to push the Uni Groups / Downhill Racer topropers about  :roll:

[dave]

don't get me wrong, i'm not slagging them off per se, more that we made a wack choice of where to go. i think if i were local i could get into galt...but I'm not. we should have walked up to animal magnetism really but it was too late by then.

[Doylo]

I agree there probably is a difference between good local venues and good 'visitor' venues. I wouldn't bother with the walk up to Animal mag unless your in good spirits either, its a bit of a trek and theres not much, maybe another 'local' place.

[cofe]

next day trip i reckon we hit:

elephantshitus
mallory boulder
clogwyn y tarwhateva

what say you chris doyle? local or schmocal choice of venues?

[a dense loner]

ever been to a crag that doesn't start with a 'W'....? widiculous idea i know

scary thing is i can't be arsed goin out friday nites now cos am addicted to a couple of hours of jonathan woss  :D

[dave]

I'm feeling

elephantarse'ole
cromlech roadsiderz
pillbox

[dave]

scary thing is i can't be arsed goin out friday nites now cos am addicted to a couple of hours of jonathan woss  :D

come one now, you're really watching it for 4 poofs and a piano aren't you? Ooohhh mince.

[Doylo]

next day trip i reckon we hit:

elephantshitus
mallory boulder
clogwyn y tarwhateva

what say you chris doyle? local or schmocal choice of venues?

I'd say maybe local, i suppose anyone who's visiting another area primarily just wants a concentration of good problems with a few harder ones to have a bash at. In wales this leaves you with the pass, porth ysgo type venues. You boys have already hit these places and sampled the delights and now you starting to check out smaller venues. Those 3 venues you've listed are brilliant, all in very different settings, different rock types. Elaphantitus- its very cool but apart from the V6 the other problems are not really do-able in a session for most. Mallory is similar, awesome place setting etc.. but epic walk and not much to go at, the v4s piss and the v7's pretty darn stiff. Clogwyn yr tarw has got a bit more to go at but still only really a few gems. So basically you gonna have to start picking of gems, moving on to another area etc.. Its a different ball game if your a local as you can project stuff and keep going back till you've nailed it! Anyway what the fuck just go everywhere and if you don't like it don't go back!  

[Doylo]

I think you boys should also go and pay homage to the Plas-y-brenin boulder, dead small and possibly another 'local' one but has some lush holds that are a pleasure to pull on (and i normally avoid slopers like the plague!).

[cofe]

j'adore le sloper. good knowledge dude - we'll be over on another day hit pretty soon - or in june - tonight there's a solar eclipse of the moon - did you used to watch boon? - i wash my hair with vidal sassoon

[al]

had a sunnyside session down at gardoms south, with my old wrinklymanc mates - had a team ascent of that thomas de gay arete thing up the pillar - how good is that route.........had a team failure on barry sheen - how reachy is that route(or do we miss some crucial trickery? any advice would be welcome) - also up to the far reaches of burbage south getting stuck in to those micro classics (john's rib thing went ok - not sure if this is 7b+, think little rascal is harder?) - mega spot though.

[squeek]

Spent the weekend bumbling up routes.  :tom:
Hopefully it will stop raining sometime this week for an
Earl mission.

[Stu Littlefair]

Can you all just fucking stop it.  :cuss:  :cuss:

It's May now and I haven't fucking pulled down since early february due to twatted fingers. If you all keep posting about who did what and good weather and new venues I'm going to explode, and you won't like it.

Fuck.

[cofe]

will we get covered in custard?

[Stu Littlefair]

Nah, I haven't been full of custard since that one time in Paris.

Right now I'm mainly full of newly-born fat and decomposing tendon tissue, which makes a fucking mess of the wallpaper, let me tell you.

So, if it's all the same by you lot, can you just stop climbing till I'm fixed? It'll only be a couple of months now...

[MrBlue]

went up to good ol' burbage and played on some easy problems to test the water with my dodgy shoulder...mostly v1s and 2s, cos i'm rock 'ard   although the cobra and the cobra mantel are quite nice problems that managed to go first try!

broke my pod coming off some v6 next to wednesday climb, so now i'm going to have to get a new mat. i might add i could only do the first two moves, we musn't get any ideas i'm actually any good at this bouldering lark :wink:

[dave]

fucking hell how do you break a pod mat?? :shock:

[cofe]

[MrBlue]

fucking hell how do you break a pod mat?? :shock:

feck knows...

fell off, stood up and lifted my mat up to put it back in the right place and noticed a lovely square hole in it - must have punctured it on the pointy rock when i came off...

 

[hardtofollow]

Got dragged to pembroke. I got pumped seconding an E1 and scared by big holds movin on a 3 star VS!

sorted it out yesterday though and got the buckstone dyno after 2 years of pittiful slappin  :D

[Jim]

as dense said , we'se went to wimbery fri and widdop sun. managed to put 3 holes in my fingers at widdop. getting close to the break on fight on black, will be going back early one morning to get some good condition and tick it (hopefully) getting phyched for earl when my tips are healed. fancy havin a lakes, wales and southern sandstone trip sometime soon.

[Mike_H]

Took Friday off work and made it a really long weekend climbing routes in the Lakes with an old mate mainly VS - E1.

The weather was amazing, and it reminded just how good climbing routes in the Lakes can be, just a pity we don't get the weather all the time.  :roll:

Climbed up at Esk Buttress on Saturday - what a crag!

Even got a few hard rock ticks as well over the course of the weekend.

[Fiend]

Quite a nice weekend... I did stuff with ROPES on Sat and Sun so I can't possibly talk about that even if Sat's climbing did also involve BOLTS.

On Monday I went to Pleasely Vale to trash myself before the weather crapped out. Nice weather but still felt very very greasy indeed. I failed on everything, got cross, kicked my rucksac about, sulked for a bit but finally managed to pull it together as it got cooler and did a couple of good problems and went along Monks a few times and got pumped so that was something...

Not exactly the bouldering  expedition of the decade :roll:

[Pantontino]

Not that I'm sensitive about criticism :cry: , but...with regard to accusations of overhyping of stuff in the Ogwen Valley - I reckon that is a bit unfair. Not all crags have universal appeal, but most are treasured by at least someone (for whatever reason).

I personally don't rate the Gallt yr Ogof block - but I know some people  who love it. (Perhaps the slabby V2 is the only thing here worthy of 2 stars?)

I've had nothing but positive feedback on Caseg Fraith Lower, and I personally think the easier problems are superb (the V3 arete is arguably the best of its grade in N Wales). The harder stuff is a bit wierd, but you do travel through some very steep territory with funky moves on the V5 and V8.
I tried to reflect the relative quality in the star ratings, and I stand by the star ratings (relative to the rest of N Wales, of course.)
The landing can be damp under the steep bit after rain, but there wasn't any rubbish or lino last time I was there. Maybe the Uni hut has dumped some crap over the wall?

[dave]

but...with regard to accusations of overhyping of stuff in the Ogwen Valley - I reckon that is a bit unfair.

when i said overhyped, i think i meant in general, not specifically in the guide or by you.

[dave]

Dave you could get the 4-11 from here:

http://home.t-online.de/home/hary.roeker/chiri.htm

Or you could just get one from the edge if Barnesy's sorted it. He's best of chums with the beast Roeker.

just seen the alps guide in the shop - its a fucking crock, its not even got any of the fucking austrian shit in that i want to know about. only got basically switzerland and ailfroide in it. :evil:

[Dave Flanagan]

When to Inishmore (one of the Aran islands off the west coast).
Lots of limestone varying from good to sharp.
Beautiful sunshine - too hot!
Good boozing there where even 2 hen and one stag nights out there....

[dave]

that looks fooking good.

[Dave Flanagan]

that looks fooking good.

I think its only fair to say then that its not as good as it looks.
One area the wormhole has very nice the rock the rest is of varying degress of sharpness.