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Bank Holiday reports (Read 12370 times)

Pantontino

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Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 12:32:21 am
So what did you get up to? I believe there was a team of Sheffield boys knocking about on my manor. What scalps did you take home with you?

I made it down to Angel Bay on Saturday (as did about 15 other people!).
Then went up on top of Little Orme to see Katz' new problem and to re-acquaint myself with the desperate, but utterly wonderful Rampant Rabbit.

Tonight made it out late up the Pass - perfect conditions and a few locals about. I heard it was very busy on Saturday.

Pantontino

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#1 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 12:36:34 am
Forgot to mention that Katz climbed the stunning project wall at Carreg Bengam Bach: highball V8 or E6/7 apparently.

Malc was also in the cave trying the Lou Ferrino - Trigger Cut link.

ian h

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#2 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 05:40:24 am
weather was pretty good sunday down my neck of the woods.  working away on a few bits and bobs at bowles and high rocks.

unfortunatly by the time i got myself out of bed monday the weather had crapped out.

dave

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#3 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:12:28 am
satdy:

got into the pass along with more or less everyone else in the english speaking world. went up to utopia and wavelength - very good boulders. did most tof the standard stuff bar wavelength itself - shame about that rock. andy was close to love pie. king of drunks is good, think we all flashed it. also boysens groove - thats good, and better than it looks. went up to meadow did killerweed. thought it was crap really.

got lunch (by then about 1600) in capel curig. then recharged we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either. went home.

monday:

the tor - good cool conditions

not a bad weekend, seen some new places. pulled on some holds.

Greg C

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#4 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:28:28 am
Saturday night - Got back from Switzerland.

Sunday - Went to Woodwell and did Hybrid Moments...at last!! :rocker: also did Art Of Self Destruction again which was nice.

Monday - Woodwell again I'm afraid, as other than Sunday had'nt really climbed there all year. Did some variations on some old problems which were really cool nice to see it all dry at last  :D

Doylo

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#5 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:36:56 am
Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Saturday night - Got back from Switzerland.

Sunday - Went to Woodwell and did Hybrid Moments...at last!! :rocker: also did Art Of Self Destruction again which was nice.

Monday - Woodwell again I'm afraid, as other than Sunday had'nt really climbed there all year. Did some variations on some old problems which were really cool nice to see it all dry at last  :D


Yo Greg the stamina gods must of been doing there thing on sunday, i iced my long term project too, staminaband at the tor! Where did u go in switzerland? How was it?

Adam Lincoln

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#6 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:39:28 am
Bout time Chris! Nice one  :rocker:

Into PUTP now then? ;-)

Doylo

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#7 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:39:32 am
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Forgot to mention that Katz climbed the stunning project wall at Carreg Bengam Bach: highball V8 or E6/7 apparently.

Malc was also in the cave trying the Lou Ferrino - Trigger Cut link.


Hey Si i heard a rumour of some strong famous types up at the mallory boulder at the weekend. Do you know what went on?

Doylo

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#8 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:40:32 am
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Bout time Chris! Nice one  :rocker:

Into PUTP now then? ;-)


Well its only 5 more moves i spose  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

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#9 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:40:44 am
Did the trad thing on the weekend, then some Devon bouldering yesterday. Fook Devon grades are hard. Think there are two grades. V6 and V10!

cofe

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#10 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:41:17 am
just super chillin on the hillside in the pass on saturday. very nice.

same stuff as dave really - had to 'work' killerweed after flashing K.O.D. and doing the witch n stuff :oops:   thought it was an alright problem though.

Greg - we might day trip up to the sarth lakes in a couple of weeks - you around?

Bonjoy

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#11 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:49:57 am
Satd'y - Wavelength did most of the classics up to V6 plus The Witch (and her knickers).  Like Dave and co failed on Wavelength itself. Went down the hill did Fear of a Sloping Planet and tried Jerry's Roof. Good company, weather and problems :D .

 Sund'y - Did Jerry's Roof, thanks in part to some sneeky kneebar beta off strong local (cheers Mr Noden). Went up to Sheep Pen boulders, did classics up to V6 plus DDT Toe Dragon and the Pinch (brilliant problem).

 Mond'y - Pottered around obscurer corners of Stanage. Did Iain's prow just right of Central Buttress direct (between Cock o the rock and Causeway slabs) utter class, one of the best 7a/V6 in the peak :!:

Bonjoy

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#12 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 09:54:08 am
:up:  Good effort Chris!

Greg C

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#13 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 10:15:58 am
Reply Chris - Hey Chris, good effort with Stamina Band!
Went to Cresciano and Chironico. Been to to Cresciano before but was my first visit to Chironico and thought it was pretty sweet. I had the new alps bouldering guide (soon to be available from Beta Climbing) which is really good written by Harry Roker (well known German beast) and he has sorted out all the over graded problems, the grading is now fairly uniform and about right every where I went.

Reply Cofe - Yeah should be about, drop us a line when closer to the time.

Pantontino

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#14 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 10:48:40 am
Chris, how hard is Stamina Band rated - a big number I presume? No wonder you pissed that link into Johnny's Wall. :wink:

When you say 'strong famous types', who do you mean? I'll make some calls, check my Mallory Boulder web cam and get back with the full story.

Doylo

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#15 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:00:19 am
Greg: Yeah that guide looks good, theres no other guide to Chironico so thats pretty handy.

Si: V11 i think. The owen spoke to Dyer and he said Vickers, Parry and Andy Earl were up there. Hopefully its just a vicious rumour  :wink:

dobbin

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#16 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:15:05 am
I have also managed to procure one of Mr Roker's guides for this summers pilgrimage to the alps. So, you all went to Wales then? I thought the Peak was quiet.

Friday - BBG North, Sat - Stoney (Tom's roof), Sun - Matrix.

Good work the Doyle on finishing everyone's arch nemesis.

Pantontino

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#17 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:16:50 am
Don't they know, these are localprojects for local people!

Is nothing sacred these days?

Doylo

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#18 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:17:45 am
Quote from: "dobbin"
I have also managed to procure one of Mr Roker's guides for this summers pilgrimage to the alps. So, you all went to Wales then? I thought the Peak was quiet.

Friday - BBG North, Sat - Stoney (Tom's roof), Sun - Matrix.

Good work the Doyle on finishing everyone's arch nemesis.


Hey Ben we should hook up for another training session sometime, give us a text if your keen anytime.

dave

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#19 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:20:58 am
wheres all you Gs getting the alps guide from? do i need to get the 4-11 from barnsey?

Doylo

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#20 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:26:05 am
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Don't they know, these are localprojects for local people!

Is nothing sacred these days?


I know its scandalous.

Dave you could get the 4-11 from here:

http://home.t-online.de/home/hary.roeker/chiri.htm

Or you could just get one from the edge if Barnesy's sorted it. He's best of chums with the beast Roeker.

dave

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#21 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 11:28:34 am
word i'll se if barnsey has got some first cuz that'll be quicker. psyched.

Bubba

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#22 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 12:02:04 pm
Quote from: "dave"
we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either.

What didn't you like about them?

I was nursing a bit of a sprained ankle so no bouldering for me, but did some stuff on the wall, went for a walk down Dovedale and did some DIY.

cofe

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#23 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 12:04:18 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Quote from: "dave"
we went untra-psyched to galt y ogof (sp?) and caseg fraith. lets just say i won't be rushing back to either.

What didn't you like about them?

I was nursing a bit of a sprained ankle so no bouldering for me, but did some stuff on the wall, went for a walk down Dovedale and did some DIY.


gallt yr ogof is a bit hardcore and bit awkward to get to the starts of the easier stuff, caseg fraith is just a dive - although nodder's new V10 is the illest thing i've ever seen. it'd be amazing to see a video of him icing it....

dave

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#24 Bank Holiday reports
May 04, 2004, 12:19:17 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
What didn't you like about them?


galt-y-ogof - theres a cracking V2 slab on it, but other than that i didn't really rate is cos everything seems to be off ultra-low starts generally with a block or 2 in the way, not to mention most stuff is hard - even the "V5" ramp seesm a tad misgraded compared to the V6s we'd been flashing earlier that day on the hillside!

caseg fraith - a bit better than the last place - the main arete is very good even if i did have to resort to a ridiculous sequence. just a shame its got that "back yard" feel, bits of old lino all over the place, and the steep problems area  bit scrappy.

dunno if its cos i'd previiously been to places like caseg groove, porth ysgo and sheep pen, or whether i was expecting too much, or over hyped or soemthing but i was very deffinetly in dissapointmentsville arizona!  :crying:

 

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