[tomtom]

Back in the saddle.
After a 3-4 week lay off it was hard to get enthused and back training - especially with the weather. But after a creaky start the psyche is back

M: really really creaky session on the Beastmaker. Pain.
T:
W: 50 press ups. Couldnt face the fingerboard but needed to do something...
T: hurt!
F: Logport wall for a lunchtime power hour.. Creak, groan, splutter, but better..
S:
Su: Helsby for a good session - first time outside for what must be a month..

[fried]

Tired this week. Ran a lot of sessions close together and needed a break. Luckily for me I had too much work so only managed...

Wed - Indoor, easy stuff, deadhangs etc

Weekend full of visitors and cooking. Couldn't muster the energy to do anything today. But then again I'm nor working tomorrow, so there didn't seem much point.

Last check in before the holidays I'll be in Font for most of the summer. If anyone's around I'll be having my birthday picnic at Buthiers somewhere next Sunday. Unless it rains which looks like a possibility.

Too much beer 75.1kg

[Oldmanmatt]

Ltg/stg/anybloodytg...

Keep climbing.

Slowly easing back into training.

Mon- Quay .... Warm up in bouldering rooms... Completely trash myself, failing to top rope two 7b's and getting frustrated. Couldn't leave it alone and overdid it...

Tues- uh, hurting... Surprise, surprise...

Wed- Quay... Almost fell into the same trap, but managed to control frustration and work some boulder problems between V6 and V8, no sends but felt strong and think I'll get them in the end.
Finished turning circuits of the 45* wall and then 15* wall.

Thurs- arrgh!!!! I hurt!

Fri- hmmm. Life gets in the way again.

Sat- Did we have one? Must have missed it...

Sun- FB, Repeaters and press ups/Pull ups to warm up.

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

M Garage 4x4 60s on 20 off: failed rep 12 -6s, rep 15 -5s, rep 16 -29. 6.75km run
t-w rest
T - Tor, back on The Ring Of Fire with high hopes, linked 3rd bolt to top on lead but was struggling with the low crux, eventually reworked a sequence but fell off there twice on RP.  3rd RP made it through then cocked up 2 moves later.
F - Garage 5x4, 60s on 20 off, completed 5 sets fairly easily, only recording a 7 on the pump scale so did a 2 minute rep which I felt I failed due to overall fatigue rather than pump.  6.75km run.
S shoulders bi's & tri's.
s

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight: getting closer. Fell off last move of a flash attempt
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Warm up on 5B/C circuit then trying stuff on 6A/B circuit. Some I flash; some are the living end.
W:
T: Team outing with work. Wetterstein hillwaking: leisurely pace, but still 950 metres height gain must be of some aerobic training value
F:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. More working things on 6A/B circuit. 
S: Wall, Gilching. Attempted more routes 6b & up than I ever have before in a session, but with a rather modest success rate. Feeling the effects of yesterday's bouldering. 5b, 5c, 6b (fell off), 6b+ (dogged), 6b (fell off last move), 5c, 6b (os), 6b+ (rp attempt, fell off), 6c (bolt to bolt), 6a+, 5c.
Rode bike to & from wall, ca 40km & thunderstorm on the way back. (Climb until utterly trashed then get soaked in thunderstorm: the Dolomites training campaign is going well)

[James Yeah]

Boulder and sport outdoor 7a. 6 pack.


Mon- P90x Yoga, 1 hour 20 mins.
Tues - Rest
Weds - P90x chest and back, ab ripper. 1 hour 20 mins.
Thurs - Weight session, bench press, curls, flys, push ups
Fri - Very short weight session as i hurt my shoulder.
Sat - Insanity Pure cardio and abs - 1 hour.
Sun - P90x arms and back.

Feeling a bit lighter, very very slowly putting on a little bit of muscle. Definitely done something to my right shoulder, feels pretty weak and tweaked.

Not been climbing in over a week, hopefully i'll rectify that this week.

[Duma]

More wrist stuff all week, physio on Thurs: strength improving, but pain in forced flexion still same - so no climbing till Aug at least 
Was at least feeling like it was improving, until Sat evening, when I'm a bit worried I did something again - was def more tender for 24 hrs or so.

On the plus side, today, finally, for the first time since the middle of fucking june, I don't have a cough or sore throat and can run!
Also 67kg all week. More and more convinced this is due to muscle loss rather than any dietary discipline though.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Nothing - suck.
T - Indoor routes @ Ratho, several medium+ routes - good, did nuff pumpy routes, no falling practise tho.
W - Gym, warm-up, heavy weight session, light cv, 15 mins rec cycling - fine, weights session was good, but wimped out of cv.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, full medium  circuit - meh, did okay, got tired, but elbow sore.
F - Rest.
S - Outdoor trad @ Aberdeen, short steep mileage - fine, good to keep my trad hand in.
S - Outdoor trad @ Aberdeen, short steep mileage - fine, good to keep my trad hand in.
 
Weight - 11.13 stone (still fat partly because of not enough long days out climbing)

Decent week overall. On the plus side, I had a good ratho session and got some useful trad mileage in at the weekend, to keep familiar with the trad challenge. On the down side, I didn't do enough CV stuff and my elbow has been consistently a bit more painful after Ratho (tho it might have been the previous week that made it more susceptible). It's not too bad today after the steady trad sessions, but I need to be more careful with the indoor bouldering and keep focused on CV, indoor leading/falling and outdoor trad.

[andy popp]

Last check in before the holidays I'll be in Font for most of the summer. If anyone's around I'll be having my birthday picnic at Buthiers somewhere next Sunday. Unless it rains which looks like a possibility.

Me and daughter are in a gite just on the edge of Font town from next Sat - its a family holiday not a climbing trip but will be keen to do little bits, would be good to hook up.

[fried]

Don' worry. I'll have my sister's family + missus family lots of kids, and mostly people who've never climbed so we'll not be doing much white/ yellow circuit I imagine. Plus chilling in the rain.

[shark]

Weight: 11.5-7 

M. Afternoon. Weights, weighted hangs and pull-ups
T. Day. Probes came over and with final version of the Wedge (portable fingerboard). Should be a video for it soon. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Evening. Few goes on the 40 degree board circuit between belaying - definitely getting stronger on circuit
W.
T. Noon. Weighted hangs, finger rolls, core and pull-ups. Eve. Shed. Short session. Gave up cos felt weak and lethargic. Should ghave gone soloing at Stanage
F. Eve. Foundry with Tom. Between belaying did a bit of boulderoing on Wave and a few goes on 40 deg board circuit. Soo close to holding grey pinch
S. Moving stuff around
S. LPT with Seb, Echo and Tom. Tom led a 5+ O/S and then flashed Skin Deep. We then did the Water Margin sea level traverse. I then did a bit of the extension. Couldnt find Tommy when I finished. Kept a lid on panic (slippery grass, loose rock, big cliffs) Headed up and found him waiting patiently for me on Marine Drive (phew). Did UTBoardwalk to warm up. Had a dog on BBBoy. felt strong. Time for one redpoint as tide came in and got to end of traverse but too pumped to carry on. Tom flashed Under the Boardwalk on top rope and did it clean a second time. Went to pub. Lovely day 

Generally easier week which fits in roughly with 3 hard weeks, 1 easy week structure. Got good gains on weighted hangs over last 4 weeks but time to transfer to smaller edges for 4 weeks. Also intend getting out on rock again now crags seem to be drying out. Need to reverse weight gain trajectory so out with snacks, wine, cheese etc too. 

[tommytwotone]

STG: GNR in sub 1:56:18 - updated to sub 1:50:00 as things are going well
LTG: Font 7b

M: nothing - recovery from 12 mile run previous day
T: easy run on lunch - 45 mins at steady pace, then board session in the evening
W: Hill rep session on lunch - 30 mins, felt very hard
T: Leeds wall with Grubes, Plattsy, Stallione and another mate. Actually tied into a rope! Had fun pottering about on not very hard bolted stuff.
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Eccup 10 (mile) - went really well despite it being a lot more hilly than I'd anticipated, and on roads I wasn't familiar with so hard to pace myself not knowing if there was another hill around the corner! 1:21:28 in the end, so a touch over 8 minute miles.

[csl]

Goals for July
Climb indoors regularly
Get at least 5 days on rock 2/5
Meet climbers in Cambridge to share lifts with
Onsight E5
18.20 5km

Mon- Kelsey Kerridge. Some hardish boulders, and some campusing. Core.
Tue- Nothing
Wed- Run - 6kish - Kelsey Kerridge - 3x3s, Arc. Feet on Campus. Core.
Thu- Nothing
Fri- Nothing
Sat- Pembroke - The arrow to warm up - then a catastrophic failure on Get Some In, E5 6a, overgripping and terrible route reading saw me totally boxed by a quarter height and i had to lower off. Shitter! Finally recovered and led Pleasure Dome later on, but not without a 10meter fall from the crux.
Sun- Pembroke - Felt totally fucked - Led a couple of E1's and seconded an E4 and E5.

Not a great weekend back on rock, realistically was probably silly to expect to be able to get on an E5 and be ok but shouldn't have fallen off Pleasure Dome as well, wasn't climbing particularly well!

[Nibile]

Good week.
Mon - board. A few boulder problems, first climbing session in a while, good vibes, esp. about feet and core. Vol 5. Int 6+.
Tue - rest.
Wed - tests. One arm lock offs, deadhangs and the likes. Not bad. Feel weak on the lock offs.
Thu - board. Good session, new problems. Single moves and short links. Vol 7. Int 8.
Fri - rest.
Sat - morning tests on monos and front two. Good. Vol 6. Int 9. Afternoon board. A bit tored but OK. Vol 6/7. Int 8.
Sun - incredibly not too tired. Glutammine works!!! Board, good session. Vol 7. Int 8.

Some wind and a more tolerable temperature made big difference. Got great motivation from doing the tests.
Good fun on the board, new problems set and tried. A few successes on easier ones. Resoled shoes made big difference on the footholds after filing down their edges a few weeks ago making them a lot harder for me.

[richdraws]

Getting back into it after a near 2 year lay off. For the past weeks I've been trying to build up session fitness so I can climb for 90 mins +.

STG (6weeks ish) - Boulder 7a grit
MTG (6month) - Boulder 7c grit
LTG lets see how we go

Mon-Wed nowt
Thursday - climbing works did ok on yellow circuit, probably got 2/3rds of it done. I then did some core work on rings and bar.
Fri - nowt
Sat Sun, laid a patio - counts as deadlifting for sure.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (172lbs on Monday-slowly starting to drop again)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (5/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Run 4mi, Campus and Core
Wednesday - Run 6mi,
Thursday -  Boulder Ptarmigan, Short session before getting rained out, but did manage to send a long term project at 8A!!  Also managed crux moves on another long-term project which may be in the 8A+ range....  Super low gravity day.  1/2 way through my summer development goal!  Headed into Gym after to finish climbing day good strong session followed by weights.
Friday - Run 8mi, brewed beer (which means we drank too much beer as well )
Saturday - Morning Campus Session, then to wedding (which means we drank too much beer as well )
Sunday - Run 6 mi

Overall not a bad week considering the crap weather.  Got the weight to start dropping again.  Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze out for more fun this coming week.

[cheque]

M- Swiss ball program week 9. Starting to feel quite manageable.
T- Rest.
W- Pleasley Vale bouldering. Pretty intense session working the crimpy ones I find had 'cos I'm so poor at crimping.
T- Deadlifting up to 1.25xBW (max I can fit on my bar)- easy. Pullups, one-arm hanging practice, pushups.
F- dishes/ v-sit combos.
S- Rest. Bought more weight, drastically increasing what I can fit on my bar.
S- Horseshoe. Lots of mileage, onsight attempts at my max (6c)- close but no cigar.

Intense week this week. Heavy crimp session, which needs to be a weekly occurence as it's my biggest weakness. Finally got on routes again. Took some leader falls for the first time in ages, but as I suspected my stamina has suffered a bit from not tying on for two weeks. Pleasingly the moves weren't what was stopping me on the routes I didn't onsight, though- it was getting pumped while working them out.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same
M: Short fingerboard sesssion.
T: Board session - Hard, AnCap(ish) and hard moves.
W: Circuits and bouldering @ The Works - Dropped penultimate move of brown 7c twice, felt tired on second go but still got to the same place. Just need one good go and it's in the bag. Boulder up to 7a(ish).
T: London
F: London
S: London - Hungover
S: London - Picked up lurgy to go with hangover - Not good

Too much London this week - Hangovers never used to last this long. Arse!

This week: Climb as much as life and lurgy allow.

:D