[nai]

season goals 8a, E4, (and a new one - 10 limestone grade 7 blocs)

M- early start, finished Red Or Dead in a few goes, looked at stuff on Beginners briefly before heading Torwards to fail on the last move of Bashers again and again and again
T - AM - assisted one arm hangs + 2kg, shoulder, back and tricep exercises.
PM - garage 4x4s campussing, 1 min on, 50s off, 3 mins between sets. Finished 4 sets easily so did a 5th without too much stress, bit of anomolous performance, a PB by miles.  Started to think that maybe the 8a goal is on after all?
w
T  Tor, back on Weedkiller (last time when snowed off grit in January), worked a better start sequence and did it relatively quickly, tried Bashers again and again.....
F 6x4 rep repeaters, failed at final rep every set.
S garage 4x4. 1 min on, 40s off, 2:30 between sets. Failed rep 43/48 final set.
s

Good week - couple of successes, the enduro work has gone from feeling the living end to hard-but-kinda-fun and the route psyche has returned despite not having tied into a rope yet.  Due a light week but somehow have to keep the momentum going over this extended half term week plus.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Great North Run in same time as 2010 or better (see below)
LTG: Font 7b

M - Signed up for Great North Run in a fit of optimism / motivation. Ran 5 miles in evening.
T - Board session, progress on v crimpy project.
W - Nowt - went to Ikea.
T - Nowt - went out boozing after work.
F - Nowt.
S - Depot, went round the comp problems up to the tricky ones without too much drama
S - Depot, tried the tricky comp problems with a lot more drama - zero ticks!

[shark]

Thanks nai

11.1-4

M. AM Sports massage - not as painful as before thank god
T. PM. Malham. Conditions OK when arrived - breezy but then wind dropped temps rose and midges came out. Felt weaker on it than Sat putting draws in. Tried from ground several times and got to setting up for throw twice. Sacked it off - tried link throw to top at end but came off coming into sidepull catching it to low. Dogged up Mescalito in awful conditions
W.
T. PM Malham. Like tuesday conds seemed ok initially but got warmer/midgier. Best go first go to third clip but power fade when crossed thru to undercut. Got to 3rd bolt twice more but didnt get to cross to the undercut right. Tried links from 2nd but unsucessful.  .
F.
S. AM 5K Park run with Poppy. She knocked nearly 3 mins off her PB  at 26:44   and is also crushing in the Shed
S. PM Malham. Filthy rainy weather but mint at the crag and weighing in at 11st.1.6lbs. Felt great and had 4 decent redpoints - once getting to the horn (at fucking last) and the 4th clip but coming off moving right and going for sloper which was my lucky high point of a few years ago since when I've not been able to get the horn since. At end linked throw to the top.   

Weighing light and having decent conditions made stacks of diffrence. Back again tomorrow...thinking about little else at the moment

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Another good week: my first 6c onsight on real rock since 1995, and have thereby reached my previous best sport climbing level. Now remains to be seen if I have enough momentum (and/or enough decent weather and time before I switch to the summer focus on alpine routes) to surpass it.

M: Alpine approach training: uphill time trial 640 metres height gain / 66 minutes. Two minutes slower than the same route a year ago but with a heavier rucksack, so the minimal amount of aeerobic training I'm doing seems to be working to at least maintain my level.
T: Wall, Gilching, routes. 5c, 6a, 6a, 6b(os), 6a+, 6b(rp), 6a, 5c, 6a, 6a+
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6b+(flash), 6a+
T:
F:
S: Sport climbing, Nassereith. Three warm-ups then onsighted a 6b, which went well, so tried a 6c and onsighted that too. yyfy. (Tried two 6a+'s which otoh were desperate). Nassereith not an inspiring crag for either rock quality or scenery compared to (e.g.) Frankenjura, but nevertheless a successful day.
S: Mobility/yoga: much needed. Stiff & sore after a week of four days intense training/climbing & no recovery/rehab work of any kind.

[fried]

Weight 74.2kg

Monday - Wednesday - had a cold.
Thursday - Indoor at new wall in Paris. Like a kid in a candy store did a lot of easy stuff. Nice place but expensive.
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Should have gone outside but instead spent the whole day sweating un the kitchen cooking Indian food.

Sunday - Should have gone outside but I slept in too late, the weather was looking unsettled so another indoor session, repeating loads od easy stuff and starting to work some of the trickier stuff.

[shark]

Quote from Bristol geezer on catwalk: "Its only sports climbing"
Felt like saying "Firstly its not 'only' and secondly its sport climbing not fucking sports climbing" 

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (4 done - 3 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4.75m hilly road run
T: rest
W:  4.75m hilly road run
T: rest
F:  4.75m hilly road run
S: Bouldering at Conies Dale, managed the 7A that I failed on last time. Should also have done another one but too tired for the final throw, should go next time.
S:  4.75m hilly road run

No training again this week, still resting tweaky fingers. Pleased to get another 7A, might have been two if the girlfriend wasn't cold! Will start back with one-armed work on big holds this week and see how the fingers feel.

[Muenchener]

its sport climbing not fucking sports climbing" 

Even if you do it in the Peaks? </ukc>

[tomtom]

Quote from Bristol geezer on catwalk: "Its only sports climbing"
Felt like saying "Firstly its not 'only' and secondly its sport climbing not fucking sports climbing" 

Just as well you cut down on the roids Shark He was only using sport as training for indoor climbing

[tomtom]

M: Nothing
T: Almscliff evening trip. Hot hot hot... an odd session - felt like i was moving really sweetly, warmed up then retro-flashed Underhand(!?!?). Then got ridiculously pumped out trying to repeat if 4 or 5 times (working the start nailed so I can do the extension..). Followed by total faliure on a greasy belly slap.. a few more on the circuit then home.
We: Pub after work:
Th: nothing
Fri: Peak trip - went to work WSS.. in the mist. Rock oddly dry, so warmed up OK, but clothes/mat stuff getting soaked (though rock quite climbale!). Had some tea in Outside then went to (ach) Rubicon. Repeated everything I can do, failed on things I've tried previously.. still felt quite strong - the power of the crimp felt good in friday.. stamina is useless, but strength is there..
Sa: Nothing
Su: 90 min BM session workign on those crimps...

[Nibile]

Horrible, horrible week.

Mon. Beast, one arm max dead hangs. Quite hot and very dry skin=everything slopey was impossible. Not bad on the small rungs. Medium.
Tue. Horrible. Felt like a shit all day long. Had a bad night which led to a
Horrible wed. Felt like a zombie.
Thu. Very bad mood and low psyche. Forced myself under the BM and pulled out a strong session, two arms dead hangs with 6 kg on. Slopers still impossible, but 15" back2 medium pockets, and hung again the small pockets back2. 10" index monos. Fuck off depression.
Fri. Active rest, climbing class and cycling to and from the gym, roughly 35 minutes.
Sat. Board. A bit tired from the week, and still a bit down, but better. One problem set, tried and climbed, the isolation moves on projects. Poor skin and too hot.
Sun. Bouldering. Despite being very hot I felt not too bad. On the lower half of my project I never felt as strong. No skin. All in all it's always good to be at the boulders.

Really glad this week is gone. I've felt very bad, very depressed. Luckily my beloved ones and some fingerboarding kept me going. A few issues to fix work wise, more to come on the blog.

[Duma]

Ugh.

7 nights, finished this morning. Think I went running tues - 6 miles, indifferent pace.

69 ish

[Sasquatch]

Sounds like a tough week for lots of folks....  Stick with it and it'll get better (I hope)

Just back from Family Vacation, so not much training/climbing. I did have one great day outside near Tahoe. Did a Big Monster-8A, Mandible-7C, a 7B+/C, Jawbone-7B flash, and 20 other problems at either Firestones or Rainbow.   

Back to the grind now and getting my summer training plan figured out.

New Goals:

Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August.
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October).
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

[iain]

Fuck off depression.

first 6c onsight on real rock since 1995

STG: E4 onsight - done
Weight: 62.2 this morning but that's a low for the week. Probably averaged 62.5.

M: 15min yoga. Rest
T: 15min yoga.BM max hangs on slopers and strength work without elbow.
W: 15min yoga.BM PE work. 1x4 on 35 degree and 2x3min 1st joint half crimp repeater sets. Post workout fingers weren't happy at the half crimps so still no crimping in training.
T: BM but didn't feel great so short session, probably didn't have much benefit.
F: 15min yoga. Rest and local beer festival but resisted overindulging because ...
S: Unexpected climbing weekend started at Boulder Ruckle and onsighted my first ever E4, Barracuda. It's essentially a steep sport route on trad but I don't care. Was psyched to try another, scarier proposition but ran out of day.
S: Met friends at the Cuttings. Onsighted a 6c+ and 7a then tried Under Duress. With some good beta input got all the moves sussed. It's not as hard or nearly as sustained as Fighting Torque but it is more subtle.

and today, back at Boulder Ruckle with my better half for a couple of E1's and an HVS, and this from the woman who aside from last weekend has done no routes for six months. I wish she'd climb more.

Great week with a trad barrier broken and already made arrangements to get back this weekend. Psyched.

[Duma]

...tried Under Duress. With some good beta input got all the moves sussed. It's not as hard or nearly as sustained as Fighting Torque...

that's what I like to hear!

[cheque]

M- Knackered. Horrific skin, low psyche. Ate chocolate.
T- Knackered. Horrific skin, low psyche. Ate chocolate.
W- Colehill Quarry. Onsighted a 6a, a 6a+ & a 6b. Got freaked by a big loose block on first route, climbed very stiffly and only felt warmed-up technique-wise on the last route, by which time it was nearly dark. Still enjoyable if only as my solar-powered partner is back to summer enthusiasm/ performance levels.
T- Knackered again. Rest.
F- Knackered again. Fucking useless.
S- Minus Ten due to drizzle- did first and second 6C+s. Great session feeling very strong and doing almost effortless laps of 6B traverse.
S- Swiss ball program week 8. Some of it now feels easy, some still desperate. My plan on this says it's time to switch to week nine next week anyway, which should be interesting! Overhead squats w/ low weight x10- as I was doing them I realised that weights is the training that best replicates the intense thrashedness I feel on hard sport routes. Gonna focus on this now.

Week started terribly but ended brilliantly- realised mid-way through that I've been taking the kind of hayfever tablets that make me feel drowsy . Now I'm on the right ones I feel back to normal.

STG- boulder somewhere other than Minus Ten...

[duncan]

STG: get fit for Switzerland in July.
MTG: E5

M - Short run
T - Arch II: up and down 60 problems (~350m climbing) in 50 mins.
W - Felt nicely battered.  Booked long weekend in Font. with family for end July.
T - Repeaters (feet on)
F - Short run
S - Wye Valley - dodged showers, gazed at Tintern Abbey, bumbled up easy trad. at Wintours, ended up in the mighty Wyndcliffe Quarry.  Warmed-up nicely, got on Diminishing Returns (6c) and failed to onsight it.  Seemed to require pulling quite hard on a quite small thing - have I been lulled into a false sense of competency by the grades at Cheddar and Portland?  Got back on and promptly felt my left shoulder go pop - the same feeling you get pulling a well-stuck suction pad off a pane of glass. Fuckityfuckfuckfuck.     

Two days later: not sure if this is a three week or a three month job.
Plan: get this properly seen-to rather than try to self-diagnose/self-treat.  Keep running up hills.  Do some stretching.   

[iain]

Blimey Duncan, you get a hard time with injuries.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Sport routes up to 7c+ then 8a before 2014

M: Board - 2 hours of power, felt good, set new problems and repeated all existing ones (amost)
T: Fingerboard - Neds plan + max hangs on crimps. Good session. Beasted!
W: 10 mileish run round the Peak - Grindleford and around Burbage and back.
T: Malham with Simon  et al   - Forgot quite how good the climbing is there (also forgot a rope, dinner and petrol money ), did consenting to warm up a couple of times then flashed Yosemite Wall and fell off Apetite a few times - Was a bit tired but really enjoyed myself.
F, S, S: Nowt.

Good start to the week but all fell apart after Thursday with kids off school and shiz... Yosemite Wall is truly superb but need to finish off Apetite now and have my eye on a few other bits so well keen to get back up to Malham soon.

This week: Try and do as much as possible with Jubilee and halfterm stuff getting in the way.

:D

[wsmith]

Week 21 of plan.
Rest week.

M.
T. Forest Rock. Worked the middle crux of traverse, did some links and tried a problem on the left. Went to the leicester wall after - onsight attempts on routes, didnt do great but got pumped.
W. 35 min run.
T.
F. Drove to Kilnsey, did directissima and had a dog up the bottom of full tilt before dark.
S. Malham. Worked then had several redpoints on Raindogs. On best one got to undercut pocket. Better than last year. Went back to Kilnsey - worked urgent action and had 1 redpoint.
S. Kilnsey. Several redpoints on UA but kept falling at jump.

Good to get out and not do any training for a week.