[north_country_boy]

It depends if you want to have a sit down and a sandwich in the middle of your red point I guess. Personally I find that pretty uninspiring.

What sort of sandwich?

I'm hoping for some 8b action this summer too. My shortlist is:

Barracuda
Zeke
Seraphim
Sean's Roof

I'm guessing none of these are going to make anybody elses list of classics but if it's long enough to even think about resting then I reckon I'd be buggered

Kali Yuga is meant to be amazing and would fit the bill Andy, no resting on that one.

[dave]

I'm guessing none of these are going to make anybody elses list of classics

not so fast, i'd be up for a poke on zeke word. You crimping again then?

[Doylo]

It depends if you want to have a sit down and a sandwich in the middle of your red point I guess. Personally I find that pretty uninspiring.

What sort of sandwich?

I'm hoping for some 8b action this summer too. My shortlist is:

Barracuda
Zeke
Seraphim
Sean's Roof

I'm guessing none of these are going to make anybody elses list of classics but if it's long enough to even think about resting then I reckon I'd be buggered

Zeke is by far the easiest on that list.

[Serpico]

No mention of Magnetic Fields? It doesn't have a café or newsagents on it, but it's still good.

[Neil F]

...The big undercuts above the hole get you to two small crimps - first right, then left, or vice-versa? I can't remember...

Classic Stu, even by your own standards.   

Neil

[Andy F]

The Yorkshire Ripper? Super sustained and technical, no really hard moves, mostly very nice holds (well, apart from some small ones on the crux...), brilliant sequences.

[Andy B]

Aren't those last two 8b+? Seraphim sounds hard from what Stu's told me.

I know, but I reckon I'd have more chance on them than longer 8b's.

I'm guessing none of these are going to make anybody elses list of classics

not so fast, i'd be up for a poke on zeke word. You crimping again then?

Hell yeah.

Kali Yuga is meant to be amazing and would fit the bill Andy, no resting on that one.

I belayed Mr Harris on it a bit and it did look really good, but I struggle to warm up at venues where I can't do two dozen arbitrary eliminates to get going. Let's be fair, my list is basically a selection of boulder problems for boulderers who want to pretend they've done some routes.

[nai]

could always warm up at the Tor then drive the 2 minutes up the road to cheedale?

[north_country_boy]

Surely you could make a Dog's dinner of it beforehand? 


Yorkshire Ripper is brilliant, but often wet, rapes the skin and tough for 8b.

[Adam Lincoln]

What about Unjustified ?

You want to be worried about where the Oak would end up in a world where Unjustified is 8b. 8a maybe?

 

[Paul B]

The Yorkshire Ripper? Super sustained and technical, no really hard moves, mostly very nice holds (well, apart from some small ones on the crux...), brilliant sequences.

new bolts rather than a rusty wire around a bolt head?

[Ru]

Let's be fair, my list is basically a selection of boulder problems for boulderers who want to pretend they've done some routes.

Try Three Spheres too, it's basically a boulder problem. Fair bit easier than Seraphim in retrospect and doesn't get much seepage from what I remember.

[Stu Littlefair]

Yes - three spheres is a brilliant suggestion. And you can do eliminates at rubicon to warm up.

[Andy F]

The Yorkshire Ripper? Super sustained and technical, no really hard moves, mostly very nice holds (well, apart from some small ones on the crux...), brilliant sequences.

new bolts rather than a rusty wire around a bolt head?

It was sporting some shiny new bolts last year. It only gets really wet in the easy bottom 1/3, the top is relatively seep-free (ish).

[JacobJacob]

It goes up.

As you've guessed, there's a crux there alright. The big undercuts above the hole get you to two small crimps - first right, then left, or vice-versa? I cant remember. I remember the right hand one is sort of a letterbox which allows you to crush your fingers in, if that helps.

After a couple more moves you do a hard move right and join Idefix to the chains.

As I feared , I'll probably have another look at some point, cheers.

[TobyD]

I'm all about resting, but rests should be earned. Anywhere you can sit down and read a newspaper is not a rest, it's a belay.

I think i'm a bit more with stu here actually.... I much prefer the rests where you have to limit your time in them, as you are generally sacraficing one thing (eg core strength) in order to recover your arms. Ledges / camp out for half an hour rests are a bit stressful

[chris_j_s]

Jordan put up a new 8b a couple of years ago in the Hollywood Bowl at Gigg North which he gave 3 stars to. It's called The Jordanator!

From the borg logbooks:
"Lefthand extension to the sound of one hand slapping. Left out past pocket then up to top of cliff."

[Bonjoy]

I'm all about resting, but rests should be earned. Anywhere you can sit down and read a newspaper is not a rest, it's a belay.

I think i'm a bit more with stu here actually.... I much prefer the rests where you have to limit your time in them, as you are generally sacraficing one thing (eg core strength) in order to recover your arms. Ledges / camp out for half an hour rests are a bit stressful

I always assumed the rest on Waddage was one of these, but could be wrong.

[Stu Littlefair]

On waddage it depends where you rest. Step right at the break (and why wouldn't you), and you can stay there all day, whistling zipedeedoodah.

Back to topic - has anyone here done Wicked Gravity? I think that looks pretty good, and more up Toby's street than Three Spheres, anyway.

[Ru]

Three spheres was a suggestion for Andy not Toby. What about one of the slate things?

[uptown]

Hey Toby, good luck with your goal. I've not got too much experience at the grade yet I'd recommend The Oak as one of the best I've  done. Climb of the century might suit you as would The velveteen rabbit too. Catch up this summer.

[mikester]

Back to topic - has anyone here done Wicked Gravity? I think that looks pretty good, and more up Toby's street than Three Spheres, anyway.

Now this truly does have a sit-down-and-have-a-cuppa rest on it. Basically, a steep boulder problem with some great moves straight off the ledge; shame about the lower wall and ledge rest.

[Stu Littlefair]

Bum.

[Adam Lincoln]

Climb of the century might suit you

This is regarded as soft 8a+ now.

[Andy F]

Climb of the century might suit you

This is regarded as soft 8a+ now.

Since when and by whom? Most of the people I know who've done it though soft 8b. It felt a step up from the other routes up there and any other 8a+ I've been on/tried.