[TobyD]

One of my goals for 2012 is another 8b (done predator)

any recommendations?

Currrent state of play:
Huecool: all moves to the post crux shake out - seems ok difficulty wise, and a reasonable route - if it warms up ever
Ecstasy: never been on
Well Dunne: been on once, dogged all moves except crux sidepull move; not super psyched for it though
Stolen: done cold steal, and bullit - seems an obvious choice?
Austrian Oak: never been on looks amazing though
Tuppence: two goes up it: great but would need to do some serious power training first, and now live miles away.

thoughts please! cheers.

[douglas]

A small aside, I'd be interested if someone was able to break down Tuppence into boulder grades? Thanks!

[JohnM]

How about Insomnia at Dinbren, although this probably only 8a+ in reality.  It is a really good route though and is quite proximal and doesn't really get affected by seepage.

[Adam Lincoln]

How about Insomnia at Dinbren, although this probably only 8a+ in reality.  It is a really good route though and is quite proximal and doesn't really get affected by seepage.

Good route, and one of best at dinbren. About 7c/+ into a v6/7 ish?

[abarro81]

A small aside, I'd be interested if someone was able to break down Tuppence into boulder grades? Thanks!

It was a while ago, but roughly 7A+/Bish (or harder if you're short) to a shake to a 7B maybe? Like a long 7c+ overall? I struggle to convert to boulder grades though, its more descriptive to call it a power endurance 8b. redpoint crux at the end jumping to a fat pinch (board style move), though I think there is an alternative method for that. Possibly the best route I've done in the UK, that wall rules.

[TobyD]

redpoint crux at the end jumping to a fat pinch (board style move), though I think there is an alternative method for that. Possibly the best route I've done in the UK, that wall rules.

they all seemed like board style moves to me! If ever there was a route made to be replicated on a 45 board.... and i'd probably like it too if i had a short or medium term chance of doing it. Those grades sound about right though - i'd have said the start felt like solid V8 (not that i could stick it); as an aside it does not suit people with fat fingers.

[TobyD]

How about Insomnia at Dinbren, although this probably only 8a+ in reality.  It is a really good route though and is quite proximal and doesn't really get affected by seepage.

cheers sounds like a good possibility

[Doylo]

Welsh wise - The Brute at the Diamond is an incredible route but you've got to wait til August and its 8b+ really. Stiff Upper Lip at Pigeons is also amazing. LPT wise Youthanasia and Melanchollie but they're pretty tough for the grade also. Temple of Gloom good if you like the horizontal.

[TobyD]

Temple of Gloom good if you like the horizontal.

If you do say so yourself  it does look great though I have to say.

[Doylo]

It's ok 

[shark]

What about Unjustified ?



Sorry, couldn't resist it 

[Stu Littlefair]

What about Unjustified ?

You want to be worried about where the Oak would end up in a world where Unjustified is 8b. 8a maybe?

Toby - have you considered Victor Hugo? Not an easy one, by any means, but I still think it could be the best 8b at Malham...

[JacobJacob]

Out of interest, where does Victor Hugo go? I couldn't seem to find a single hold in any direction after the hole next to the thriller anchor...

[Stu Littlefair]

It goes up.

As you've guessed, there's a crux there alright. The big undercuts above the hole get you to two small crimps - first right, then left, or vice-versa? I cant remember. I remember the right hand one is sort of a letterbox which allows you to crush your fingers in, if that helps.

After a couple more moves you do a hard move right and join Idefix to the chains.

[douglas]

A small aside, I'd be interested if someone was able to break down Tuppence into boulder grades? Thanks!

It was a while ago, but roughly 7A+/Bish (or harder if you're short) to a shake to a 7B maybe? Like a long 7c+ overall? I struggle to convert to boulder grades though, its more descriptive to call it a power endurance 8b. redpoint crux at the end jumping to a fat pinch (board style move), though I think there is an alternative method for that. Possibly the best route I've done in the UK, that wall rules.

Thanks for the info on that.

[Paul B]

Monsterosity is rather good.

I've also heard good things about Bricktop and Gran Techo, whether they'll dry this year however is another thing all together.

[abarro81]

I've also heard good things about Bricktop and Gran Techo, whether they'll dry this year however is another thing all together.

They're both awesome, but I'm not holding my breath for a dry cornice any time soon... damn UK!

[Bonjoy]

Waddage at the Tor might be a good choice. Long (as UK routes go), cruxy bits punctuated by decent rests, pretty seepage proof and supposed to be good (haven’t been on the top bit but Chimes is good).

[Stu Littlefair]

It depends if you want to have a sit down and a sandwich in the middle of your red point I guess. Personally I find that pretty uninspiring.

[abarro81]

Bloody boulderers. I love resting. I sometimes wonder if I enjoy shaking out more than I enjoy actually climbing.

Waddage is easier than bricktop/techo/tuppence, since you're only likely to fall off the top a couple of times (or not at all) once getting through baby chimes and having worked out the upper section. It's also much more reliably in condition than the other peak ones as Bonjoy said... however it's not as good as either of the others mentioned.

[Bonjoy]

I'm with abarro, true sport climbing is all about the rests. I suspect Toby is in our camp.

[dave]

Zeke?

[Stu Littlefair]

I'm all about resting, but rests should be earned. Anywhere you can sit down and read a newspaper is not a rest, it's a belay.

[Andy B]

It depends if you want to have a sit down and a sandwich in the middle of your red point I guess. Personally I find that pretty uninspiring.

What sort of sandwich?

I'm hoping for some 8b action this summer too. My shortlist is:

Barracuda
Zeke
Seraphim
Sean's Roof

I'm guessing none of these are going to make anybody elses list of classics but if it's long enough to even think about resting then I reckon I'd be buggered

[abarro81]

Aren't those last two 8b+? Seraphim sounds hard from what Stu's told me.

Stu - where did you eat your sandwhich? I don't remember me or Bob getting any no-handers back when we did Waddage. I think you must have cheated.