[shark]

11.5-7

M. Noon. Porta-edge. Encores (64 hangs) Deadhangs (32) finger rolls and pullups. Slight improvement on last week. Eve Physio - Ostro did more work on left shoulder
T. Eve. Wave with Poppy. Quick hour. Shoulder still sore.
W. Noon. Fingery endurance on sytems board (3 sets of 4 reps of 7-15 moves to failure, 1min between reps) Equalled last session roughly which was disappointing until realised typing this up that had 2 mins rather than 1 min between reps last time. Eve. Foundry bit of bouldering and then tried to campus but was powered out.
T.
F. Noon. Fingery endurance session. Some decent gains despite weighing 11.7    Time to rein in on the treats again
S. Raining. Didn't expect to climb but Raven Tor dry when got there and sun is now a bit higher so getting onto the crag again. Felt strong on individual moves on Weedkiller but faded very quickly. Disappointing.
S. Family stuff in till lunchtime until Sonia kicked me out of the house so she could get on with work. Beautiful day. Back to the tor with low expectations and got Weedkiller first go. 
 

[205Chris]

Was just about to start this thread but you beat me too it Shark. Good effort on Weedkiller.

Northumberland trip report:

M: Hepburn. Warmed up then flashed Titanic arete before working out the beta on the sitter. Disappointingly Northern Soul (the main goal) was damp. Flashed Rheumatology and If.
T: Back in Sheffield for a work course
W: Day 2 of work course
T: Hepburn round 2. Northern Soul was dry so game on. Slipped off the slab on my first attempt but pretty pysched to tick it next go. Went round to Kyloe in the Woods and had an epic session on the Yorkshireman involving skinned knuckles, landing head first on my mat (don't ask) and finally beating it into submission on more or less the last go of the day. Ticked Playing Rudies too.
F: Pretty much aching all over from yesterday. Went to Kyloe out and did a few easy bits and pieces. Nowhere near enough energy to try Prime Time.
S: Quick session at Back Bowden. Thundering Apoplexy and a few more 7s in the bag before heading home.
S: Met up with an old friend for a Stanage circuit. Was meant to be a easy day but couldn't resist trying Brass Monkeys after reading the beta thread. Went down second go today - can't have been trying hard enough on holiday  . Sweet!

Quite possibly the best week's bouldering I've ever had. Made up with my Northumberland haul but equally pysched to get back to some other venues like Ravensheugh, Callerhues & Shaftoe. Awesome to round the week off with a 7c as well. even if it's not really 7c for the tall

Might start thinking about some PE training soon in preparation for route season.

[biscuit]

last weeks goals:

2x aerocap - 1 done and going to do a fingerboard aerocap tonight
4 x 40 min runs - 3 done and a 4 hr walk today
body fat below 13% - just @ 12.9%

VSTG - 1 week time limit

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

2 x aerocap - 1 session will be a 6 pitch max 6b route.
1 x ancap
1 x routes day - 7a+ needed
2 x hangs - these may go if too tired from other work
1 x boulder
2 x runs

M - In UK
T - in UK - nipped to climb rochdale
W - 40 min run
T - 40 min run
F- 30 min run
S - El Torcalito
S - 4 hr walk


Wall session has shown me i am still plenty strong enough but need the ancap. Power fade was very noticeable.

Ancap session disrupted again due to mad busy crag. I may have to man it up and go down super early in the morning while it's bloody freezing. My aerocap route there is now feeling really easy so time for a change. I am due to change from 20/10's to 50 move work so i have started to figure one out that goes the full length of the crag including the 40 degree section.

Got some stretches sorted now for my back and it's feeling better already.

Body fat is going down despite chocolate muffins being made for me ( rude to refuse ) and being fed lots in the UK so all is well.

This is the start of the real work now for my 7b+/c training plan. Looking forward to it.

Nice one on weedkiller. Have you put a lot of time into it ? Looked easy for you 

[Oldmanmatt]

1. Half term.
2. Guests.
3. Chest infection.
4. Arghhh!!!!

Six year old daughter LEAD(!) her first route on Monday (on the wall) an over hanging 5. Seven year old Nephew lead his first, an overhanging 6a!
This week I live vicariously!

[AJM]

Beautiful day. Back to the tor with low expectations and got Weedkiller first go. 

They always go when you least expect them to - nice one Simon...! Maybe see you up at Malham in a fortnight.....?

[shark]

Thanks guys !

Nice one on weedkiller. Have you put a lot of time into it ? Looked easy for you 

In terms of dedicated sessions on it more than 5 and less than 10 over this winter. It did feel easy when I did it but I have really struggled to get to that point. I was keen to get stuck into lime bouldering this winter as it would work my weaknesses and Weedkiller is great for training - the holds are very fingery and body tension helps a lot. Hopefully build up to doing laps on it this year and the various links and variations. Maybe even work towards Weedkiller/Chimes (as Adam Lincoln suggested on Facebook) which links the boulder problem into the route (baby) Chimes to give a soft 8b. That'd be nice.

[nai]

Nice one Shark.

1. Half term.
2. Guests.
3. Chest infection.
4. Arghhh!!!!

Swap 3. for the aftermath of a lingering cold and that's pretty much my week, add in ongoing building work meaning we've all been sleeping in one room for about 3 weeks now so haven't slept a night through in that time, feeling pretty 2nd hand.

Managed a short body-weight-exercise session a couple of times and mistakenly went to Burbage North today but climbed like a sack of shit.  The flow, fitness and vibe of 2-3 weeks ago is but a distant memory

[tomtom]

Effort Shark...

Me, nothing except a Tuesday (valentines day) at Rockcity.. nice.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter, move into route training over March.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gayflu / rest
T - Gayflu / nothing - suck.
W - Gayflu / brief outdoor bouldering @ Craigmore - starting to feel better, bit of fresh air and slopers was fine.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, half-circuit / projecting - fine, decent workout.
F - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, half-circuit / projecting - mediocre, wasn't focused on training enough.
S - Gayflu / nothing - suck, wanted to go to gym.
S - Outdoor bouldering @ Queens, easy circuit - fine, amazing conditions but mostly easy stuff, fun rather than progressive..

Meh. Fucking gayflu again. Kinda fought it off but stopped the momentum of last week. Okay bouldering training this week but no gym, I actually missed it as my shoulders felt they wanted it. Need to get more in next week. Still feel pretty unfit even warming up bouldering. Want to push my bouldering a bit more but haven't found interesting local projects yet....

[Duma]

Nice one on Weedkiller shark.
Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - nowt
T - TCA lunch, 1 hr, white #2 (vert 7Aish) and some good goes on mothership black (steep 7B+ish)
W - TCA lunch, 1 hr, attempts on mothership black (7B+ish), no progress.
T - nowt, childcare all day.
F - TCA, eve, 3 hrs. Good session - both mothership LH blacks 1st go (steep on I was working earlier in the week, and vert 7B arete), some good attempts on orange #23 (~18 move roof, 7Cish). Finished with 90 move circuit link up. Night shift after.
S - nowt, sleeping between nights
S - TCA, afternoon, 2 hrs before work. Good session - Mothership LH green (steep 7B/+), and got all the moves and some good links on yellow (steep 7C?). Night shift after.
Weight 70 - 71

Disappointed I didn't get a run in this week, but otherwise pleased, felt good on the steeper stuff at the weekend.

[Duma]

 

M - Gayflu
T - Gayflu
W - Gayflu
S - Gayflu
Meh. Fucking gayflu again.

I know lots of us do it, and I'm certainly occasionally guilty, but I heard some stuff on the radio about adolescent suicides recently which really made me think about how this constant use of gay as a derogatory term passes without comment everywhere. Anyway, I'm going to try and stop using it. It makes you sound like a twelve year old too.

[fried]

Monday-Friday - Working all day for a pittance of pay.

Saturday - indoor session + core/ shoulders
Sunday - Shoulder/elbow stuff

Weight 74.2kg

What is a 'Bolton complex'? I id a search but could only find references to it.

Need to find a car, quick. The weather on Sunday was perfect....

[tomtom]

M - Gayflu
T - Gayflu
W - Gayflu
S - Gayflu
Meh. Fucking gayflu again.

I know lots of us do it, and I'm certainly occasionally guilty, but I heard some stuff on the radio about adolescent suicides recently which really made me think about how this constant use of gay as a derogatory term passes without comment everywhere. Anyway, I'm going to try and stop using it. It makes you sound like a twelve year old too.

+1.  wankyfuckingshitflu would do

[Fiend]

And there I was thinking that quote would lead to some kind of sympathy for me always battling against the lurgy... 

My gay friend called me "gay" for considering getting a floral cover for my new phone the other day 

Besides it is an abbreviation for gayLORDflu, I don't think GAYLORD can really go out of fashion as an insult? 

I will try to think of some other insult to contemn my  -flu...

[tomtom]

I will try to think of some other insult to contemn my  -flu...

McFlu?

*ducks*

[chris j]

What is a 'Bolton complex'? I id a search but could only find references to it.

Need to find a car, quick. The weather on Sunday was perfect....

Here's shark's interpretation of a Bolton complex, with commentary from Serpico...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17652.msg324844.html#msg324844

and by coincidence here's a car...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19584.msg344755/boardseen.html#new

No excuses now! 

[pete b]

M: 30 minute run
T: Climbing at K2. Did some routes as well as bouldering
W: 2 hours juggling
T: Fingerboard. One arm hangs with 10kg assistance. Getting too easy so I will reduce assistance. I want to be able to hang most of the BM2K holds with 1 hand and no assistance.
F: > 1 hour juggling (11 balls)
S: 30 minute run
S: Nothing - home improvements

[Duncan Disorderly]

Missed a week ue to being in Spain so here's the lowdown....

Goals: Not climb like a complete punter in Spain (ticked IMO), F7c+, F8a....

Week 104

M-T: Ill family and looming trip so nowt.
F: Easy routes @ Sella.
S: Sella - Warmups then 6c/+ onsight.
S: Alcallii - Warmup on best 6a+ I think I've ever done. Try and onsight 7a, slip off then pull ropes and crush (no rest). Early bath due to screaming kids.

Week 105

M: Pena Roja - Warmup on ace 6b then try and onsight 7a+, get spooked pulling on crimpy righthand hold forcing lob, pull back on (no rest) climb to top and piss it next go.
T: Sella - Warmups then 6c+ onsight.
W: Boy's birthday - tick safri park - Ace!
T: Echo Valley - Warmup, try and onsight cruxy 7a, lob. Decide to leave clips in and go for a beta flash of ace looking 7a+. Beta was complete rubbish, still crushed it  Sore skin forces dog of previous 7a to get clips out.
F: Alcalli - Warmup then onsight 3 star 6c+, decide to try and onsight (flash?) 7b that I'd seen a friend on last week. Crush it into submission 
S: Scope out Penon for future, fly home.
S: Walk in't Peak.

Great trip... Perfect weather, great company, pretty much climbed everything I tried either first or second go, felt fit, finger was absolutely fine and the family enjoyed it.
Was amazing to onsight 7b for the first time, it was a real experience pulling pretty hard, putting the clips in with no idea what was coming next (although the true onsight may have been tainted by having actually seen someone on it, I really felt I was climbing into the unknown ).
It was a stark contrast to my last trip out there where I projected a route for the whole week only to tick it on the final go of the trip, overall I think I enjoyed this more
My only gripe is that I didn't make it to the Wildside due to it being freezing out of the sun.

This week: AeroCap, PE, Running and Bouldering shamone....

:D 

[marky8b]

Week 7

13/2/12
Chapels Session, ANC & ARC
warm up
ANC 9 reps of 14 move wooden problem with 3 mins rest intervals. & good reps 2 halfs. 120 moves
ARC 20, 10's x 4 sets
2 on 40 degree wall (300moves)
1 on 20 degree wall (150)
1 on vertical wall (150)
total 600 moves
Circuit training 1 set of 6 exercises 1 min on 1 min rest
650 core

15/2/12
Chapel Session ANP & SSW
rowing 5mins/warm up
mixture of problems, on different wall angles, again strong on some not so on others, mainly non positive holds 100 moves
1 arm assisted 20kg x 4 reps for 5/6 seconds each arm.
weighted pulls (15kg) x 4 reps, 6,6,6,4
Dead hangs x 4sets (7on3off) 6reps, 3 on small campus edge, 1 on medium
400 core

16/2/12
Chapel session
ARC & ANT
run/warm up
4 sets of 20, 10's (5 reps each) 600 moves
ANT strength work
Bench into 1 leg squats, bench 55kg x 3 reps (5,5,5) leg x 3 (6,6,6)
Press into row 35kg x 3 reps, Press 5,5,4 row 5,5,5
Core 400

18/2/12
Went to go outside but weather shit....
Leicester Tower Climbing Wall
lead climbing from 6a to 6c then worked 8a did it with one rest
combination of Aerobic work and ANP on the 8a
total of 300moves

Getting sick of the indoors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[leeroy]

stg - climb 7C+
ltg - 8a sport in summer

M - Nowt
T - Brass monkeys and a few reps on captain hook, greens. did deliverance third go. nice day.
W - Went to gardoms to finish off neils roof, but it was soaked, so instead tried perfect day start and got shut down, bad day.
T - nowt
F - wet again
S - went rhs to finish off bens wall, had five minutes on it, nearly did it, then it rained 
S - a good day. very very nearly did brad pit, having thought it would take ages.

A mixed week, thwarted by weather but several ticks i know i'll get next time to so not too bad.

[Jaspersharpe]

What is a 'Bolton complex'? I id a search but could only find references to it.

Need to find a car, quick. The weather on Sunday was perfect....

Here's shark's interpretation of a Bolton complex, with commentary from Serpico...

I thought a Bolton complex was the completely rational fear of getting relegated from the Premier League with unsustainable debts of over £100m after spunking tons of cash on crap players that your mate the agent recommended to you.

Otherwise known as Gartside's syndrome.

I will try to think of some other insult to contemn my  -flu...

McFlu?

*ducks*

Filet-O-Flu?

[fried]

What is a 'Bolton complex'? I id a search but could only find references to it.

Need to find a car, quick. The weather on Sunday was perfect....

Here's shark's interpretation of a Bolton complex, with commentary from Serpico...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17652.msg324844.html#msg324844

and by coincidence here's a car...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19584.msg344755/boardseen.html#new

No excuses now! 

Cheers Chris. I think I might have the car sorted though. Bit far for me to come, too.

[tomtom]

Filet-O-Flu?

Sneezeburger..?

[csl]

last 2 weeks cos i was away skiing.

6th-12th - one session at wall, lapping routes. Feeling much fitter and generally more confident. Lakes winter at Bowfell did a few things including a V so one goal for end of Feb done.

13th-19th - Skiing and looking at icefalls in La grave. Fun!

[i_a_coops]

M-W - nada
T - bar session + lots of one armers over several hours.
F - attempt at a stamina session, cut short by power cut at wall. Wrote my bike off on the way home when the chain jammed, lost a lot of skin from all over my body 
S 
S slept a lot. did a pullup with my girlfriend on my back  not quite a bodyweight pullup but close!

Ought to cut out alcohol again soon I think. Can't believe I crashed my frikkin' bike!