[ksjs]

I realise I probably need to have a proper look and go on these but I'm keen for a bit of inspiration / inside knowledge...

I've picked what I understand are a few of the easier Yorkshire limestome 8bs with a view to getting onto / into 1 or 2 of them over winter / next year; think I've decided Yorkshire is a better bet than North Wales (where I mainly climb) for 8b and above - too much hassle with tides and conditions.

I prefer sustained rather than cruxy and therefore long rather than short but beggars can't be choosers and more than anything I guess I want something that I can be reasonably confident about with regard to conditions i.e. won't seep or key holds don't seep, isn't impossible if the sun's about, is reasonably sheltered etc (this is sounding awfully like Spain but we'll ignore that).

I saw someone on Ecstacy earlier this year and it looks excellent, great position and I eyed up Full Tilt which looks like a very cool line (though prone to seepage?) Anyway, any thoughts on relative difficulty of these 4 routes, their style and likelihood of being climbable at different times of year would be much appreciated. I'm guessing Kilnsey is out of the question for some time now?

By the way I haven't climbed 8b before so this whole thing may be more optimistic than realistic but I'm keen for a bash 

Cheers!

[Charlton Chestwig]

Do Predator

[north_country_boy]

I realise I probably need to have a proper look and go on these but I'm keen for a bit of inspiration / inside knowledge...

I've picked what I understand are a few of the easier Yorkshire limestome 8bs with a view to getting onto / into 1 or 2 of them over winter / next year; think I've decided Yorkshire is a better bet than North Wales (where I mainly climb) for 8b and above - too much hassle with tides and conditions.

I prefer sustained rather than cruxy and therefore long rather than short but beggars can't be choosers and more than anything I guess I want something that I can be reasonably confident about with regard to conditions i.e. won't seep or key holds don't seep, isn't impossible if the sun's about, is reasonably sheltered etc (this is sounding awfully like Spain but we'll ignore that).

I saw someone on Ecstacy earlier this year and it looks excellent, great position and I eyed up Full Tilt which looks like a very cool line (though prone to seepage?) Anyway, any thoughts on relative difficulty of these 4 routes, their style and likelihood of being climbable at different times of year would be much appreciated. I'm guessing Kilnsey is out of the question for some time now?

By the way I haven't climbed 8b before so this whole thing may be more optimistic than realistic but I'm keen for a bash 

Cheers!

Predator. Most reliable in terms of seepage, fits your bill in terms of style and its also the best of the lot IMO, and probably the best sport route of its grade in the UK.

It is also the easiest of the ones you listed....

[Doylo]

I've picked what I understand are a few of the easier Yorkshire limestome 8bs with a view to getting onto / into 1 or 2 of them over winter / next year; think I've decided Yorkshire is a better bet than North Wales (where I mainly climb) for 8b and above - too much hassle with tides and conditions.

But a 3 hour drive both ways every week isn't a hassle!!! You're bonkers Keith. You know all too well that N Wales conditions/tides ain't a problem when you're local, Kilnsey gets wet and Malham's often too hot.  I concede the 8b's here probably don't suit you though. I'd say Predator and get saving up that petrol money   

[north_country_boy]

Too true Doylo. Similar story living in Scotland.....

[Doylo]

I've lived a couple of hours from Yorkshire all my climbing life and yet have only done a couple of 8's there.  I may be a bit rubbish but it's a pain having projects hours away. Good effort to those that can do it.

[Adam Lincoln]

Full Tilt is the hardest of the lot. Three cruxes, and if you are short, can feel top end 8b.
Predator probably the easiest, and more suited to you Keith.
Ecstacy may very well go down to 8a+ in new guide.
Austrian Oak not a bad project for winter, if you can get warm before each go. Hard low down then pretty sustained all the way. Need strong core and some good footwork.

Hope that helps.

[Doylo]

I'd say Youthanasia but it looks like it'll be getting upgraded

[petejh]

Look at the options for N.Wales -

Melancholie -  super tecky/crimpy and the opposite of what everyone'sKeith's looking for, also conditions dependant (but not massively). OUT
Youthanasia - could be a good one, sustained, supposed to be super good, but maybe 8b+?  Conditions - not any more difficult to session this if you live in North Wales than driving to a route in Yorkshire.
The Brute - have to wait until August, top of the grade, a relatively short window of opportunity, conditions can be fickle. OUT (It would be my choice if the time of year was right though, mega route!!)
Stiff Upper Lip extension (I still wished he'd called it Thin on Top): Seeps, conditions hard to get over winter, cruxy. OUT. Another mega route though and good for most of the year except winter. Possibly soft touch?.
Temple of Gloom: an upside down roof climb so not really what he's looking for (?), reliable conditions year-round, pretty good but not classic, possibly soft touch? A possibility?
Corintheon Groove: Next.
New Slatesman - it has two 7a moves including the possibly hardest move on slate. OUT
Bungles Arete - Not what he's after. OUT
Sauron: Another super-technical route in a dark damp hole, but it's on slate so it's probably going to be in nick for large parts of the winter. OUT
Serpent Vein: This could be the one Keith! 45 metres of beautiful dolerite, not at all conditiony (compared to LPT), close to home, one of the best 8b's in the country with a 'V8/9/font 7b+ crux'.  What are you waiting for!! This, the brute or Youthanasia will be my choice for my first 8b if it's going to be in N.Wales.

Not that many options really, I can see why you'd drive to Yorkshire. Devil's Gorge/Dinbren??

[nodder]

Corintheon Groove: Next.
What is wrong with it?

[Doylo]

  My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already  Not one for Keith though.
Like i said fair do's there's not an 8b with his name on it but i'm not having the tides/conditions excuses. People climb 8c+ here every year 

[petejh]

Corintheon Groove: Next.
What is wrong with it?

'I sense you are being ironic right now'

[petejh]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already 

You should get used to that.

[Doylo]

Nothing wrong with Carinthean Groove, not everyones scared of hard moves

[Doylo]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already 

You should get used to that.

Those crags will still get more traffic than Detritus Wall.  3nd ascent of Alberta Rose before 2015, place yer bets!!

[Adam Lincoln]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already  Not one for Keith though.

Is that 8b now?

[nodder]

'I sense you are being ironic right now'

No, honest guv.  Its cos its hard then?

[Doylo]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already  Not one for Keith though.

Is that 8b now?

You being a dozy fucker and thinking of Throbber's route that you tried?

[nodder]

I prefer sustained rather than cruxy and therefore long rather than short


Ah once more I will get my coat.

[Adam Lincoln]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already  Not one for Keith though.

Is that 8b now?

You being a dozy fucker and thinking of Throbber's route that you tried?

Yep, dozy fucker.
Whats the 8b there? Have i seen it? Must be at waterfall bit is it?

[petejh]

No, honest guv.  Its cos its hard then?

Yep because it's hard, not because it isn't good. Still awaiting a second ascent - don't think Pete got it yet? Super crimpy a bit like a Melancholie above the drive (I'm guessing obviously), and very short for its difficulty.

[Doylo]

My little 8b in Dyserths been forgotten about already  Not one for Keith though.

Is that 8b now?

You being a dozy fucker and thinking of Throbber's route that you tried?

Yep, dozy fucker.
Whats the 8b there? Have i seen it? Must be at waterfall bit is it?

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/09/21/2471/

To be fair there's not a stamina 8b on the lime.  The Brute is savage power endurance and savage.  Melanchollie is PE crimp endurance, Temple is PE and the others are mucho cruxy.  Thank god for Yorkshire

[Doylo]

Carintheans no worse than any of the others. It's pretty cool actually. Like i said onwards to Yorkshire

[petejh]

Those crags will still get more traffic than Detritus Wall.  3nd ascent of Alberta Rose before 2015, place yer bets!!

My money's on one of - Pete, Neil, Caff, Ally, Jim,  or a one of a whole bunch of other psyched n.walians. Being as its right next to one of the best 7b+'s in the country and I claimed it as being one of the best 7c's in the country, it'll see some attention now the word's out about the handline access. Tenner?
 Come to think of it Keith's said he's super keen to go back to Ocean of Emotion and Alberta Rose. Speaking of whom .....

[Doylo]

Those crags will still get more traffic than Detritus Wall.  3nd ascent of Alberta Rose before 2015, place yer bets!!

My money's on one of - Pete, Neil, Caff, Ally, Jim,  or a one of a whole bunch of other psyched n.walians. Being as its right next to one of the best 7b+'s in the country and I claimed it as being one of the best 7c's in the country, it'll see some attention now the word's out about the handline access. Tenner?
 Come to think pof it Keith's said he's super keen to go back to Ocean of Emotion and Alberat Rose. Speaking of which .....

perfect solution for Keith, new 8b on Detritus wall get to it