My (odd?) fingers.
You're not wrong. Looks like you've got two middle fingers and two pinkies!
Completely uninsightful and non-qualified suggestion, but what about taping them together to prevent the parting effect and allow them to support each other?
I latched a three-finger pocket dynamically (movement forced my weight towards outside of hand position), open-handed, and heard a pop. I went for a big jug dynamically and, due to poor body positioning, my hand slipped out of the juggy pocket. I automatically over-gripped to try and stay on the wall and felt a sharp pain in the same finger as previously, only this time it was very localised to the A1/2.
Quote from: Steve Perry (Pezz) on October 21, 2011, 12:21:08 pmI latched a three-finger pocket dynamically (movement forced my weight towards outside of hand position), open-handed, and heard a pop. I went for a big jug dynamically and, due to poor body positioning, my hand slipped out of the juggy pocket. I automatically over-gripped to try and stay on the wall and felt a sharp pain in the same finger as previously, only this time it was very localised to the A1/2.To me these are not injuries done while open handing, these are injuries done by doing things in an out of control dynamic throw late in a session when you are feeling tired. Sometimes best to let go rather than hang on at all costs, (let your ego take the hit rather than your body )I could be wrong though. I would do the same as before, and try doing some dep friction massage to reduce scar tissue and let it heal properly before going full out again.
I am projecting A LOT here so feel free to ignore me if this doesn't sound like you
Yeah, sounds like flexor tendon not pulley, I've done that myself on a lunge to a sharp 2 finger pocket, pain in the palm of my hand too, took a long time to fully recover.
Sadly what you love most is most likely to hurt you most.
Quote from: joeisidle on October 21, 2011, 01:04:38 pmI am projecting A LOT here so feel free to ignore me if this doesn't sound like youActually, it sounds very much like me. Especially feeling like I'm slacking if I'm not having 2 or 3 sessions on steep fingery stuff. It is what I love climbing on the most
Quote from: Big Dave on October 21, 2011, 12:51:57 pmYeah, sounds like flexor tendon not pulley, I've done that myself on a lunge to a sharp 2 finger pocket, pain in the palm of my hand too, took a long time to fully recover. How long? Did you do anything specific, other than changing type of climbing etc., as mentioned above?
I am back on the steep stuff even better than before now so it's not going to be slabs all the way for you from now on.