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Ideal training shoe? (Read 2930 times)

ukclimber101

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Ideal training shoe?
September 09, 2011, 10:51:05 pm
Hi guys, i need some advice, please.
I recently bought some Scarpa Vapour V bouldering shoes for them super hard boulder sessions, and they are fantastic, but the rubber is really soft, so i kinda want to keep them for hard outdoor climbs. but i have my own boulder wall, and i need some cheap and cheerfull shoes that would last me a long time, and alot of climbing. As i can see my scarpa's being ripped to shreds, Money isn't so much of a problem, i just want something very durable with a nice toe, any ideas anyone? thanks alot.

erm, sam

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#1 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 10, 2011, 09:06:52 am
If money isn't a problem then just buy another pair of Vapours, if you like them, and keep them for the board.I think shoes wear out very slowly if only used on a board.
You might get more out of your home wall if instead of looking for some very hardwearing shoes (thick rubber, stiff) you get some especially soft shoes to help build toe power.

lagerstarfish

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#2 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 10, 2011, 09:34:55 am
If money isn't a problem, then wearing the same type of shoes for training and climbing makes a lot of sense.

ukclimber101

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#3 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 10, 2011, 05:52:40 pm
Cheers guys, but like i say they are very soft, and i dont want to be buying a new pair every season.. I climb barefoot quite often for toe power, so thats not so much of an issue. thanks for the ideas though

andymarshll

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#4 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 10, 2011, 06:35:23 pm
A new pair every season! When i used to only only use one pair of shoes at a time i went through them in 2 months.

ghisino

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#5 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 11, 2011, 09:53:01 am
my 2 cents.

if you really like your vapours...

-get another pair, just break in and then leave it for really hard attempts.
-use your first pair on the board too, until it's time to resole.
-resole with C4 or XSedge and use this resoled pair on the board and for warmups.

you end up with a non-resoled pair for most of your outdoor climbing and a sloppy resoled one for the board. that's how i do it.

Dexter

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#6 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 15, 2011, 12:50:23 pm
buy a pair of really shitty shoes so you get really really strong?  :worms:

highrepute

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#7 Re: Ideal training shoe?
September 15, 2011, 05:40:32 pm
get the vapor Lace. Same shoes harder rubber. Sorted!

joeisidle

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#8 Re: Ideal training shoe?
October 05, 2011, 09:10:03 pm
May be a bit too late to be helpful but I've found that the red chili matadors are a good durable shoe that fit me well (and my feet get on well with the vapour laces). The rubber isn't the sort of thing that sticks well to grit but for indoors I've found them perfect and they have saved my other shoes from a lot of unnecessary wear for a good 6 months at least and the toes are still intact.

 

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