[Luthor]

STG  - ...
MTG  - finish off (or start?) a few sport projects / start gearing up for bouldering
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - 
Tue     - Raven Tor, ended up bouldering rather than routing
Wed     - light sess at works
Thurs   - circuits board @works lunchtime, bouldering @works after work
Fri     - rest
Sat     - routes at horseshoe quarry
Sun     - bouldering at rubicon

[205Chris]

STG: Enjoy a few more weeks sport climbing
MTG: Font in November. Currently compiling an over ambitious tick list

Back from a week of chuffing in the Wye Valley:

S: Ban-y-gor. Warmed up, did a 6b+ that spanked me years ago and then flash Pet Cemetery, a quality 7a.
S: Symonds Yat. Tick the classic VS of Whitt. Second a few things then lead an E4 that looks right up my street. Annoyingly I had to abseil it first to clean all the crap off the holds from a horde of abseilers.
M: Second my mate up a couple of VS at Wyndcliffe then head to Ban-y-gor again but get spanked by everything I tried.
T: Ban-y-gor again. Manage one of the routes I couldn't do on Monday and make good progress on the classic 7b of the crag but I'm too knackered for a proper redpoint attempt.
W: Shorn Cliff for the classic HVS slabs.
T: Rain. Day out in Bristol
F: Hoping for Wintour's but belayer was feeling unwell so wound up at Wyndcliffe quarry. Manage to onsight most of the starred routes including a couple of cool aretes at 7a & 7a+.
S: Ban-y-gor. Just time to redpoint the 7b from earlier in the week before it rained. Coffee and cake then back to Sheffield.
S: Short of time so head to the works for a couple of hours.

Enjoyable holiday, good to get some trad climbing done and I'm pretty sure E4 is my hardest trad lead to date. Hoping to get a few more sport routes in over the next couple of weeks before my thoughts turn to training for Font.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Tick the Cliff up to 6c+ in the last guide
LTG: Font 7b

M: Nowt much
T: A very lacklustre  session on board / Beastmaker
W: Travelled down to East Anglia to see my sister.
T: Lunch at Oxo Tower for my sister's birthday, then on to Hip Hop Karaoke at The Social. Great day.
F: Off to The Oval for the Test. Drank a few pints while watching KP and Ian Bell heap on the runs.
S: Easy day, then mate's barbeque in the evening.
S: Lunch with a mate, then back to Leeds.

Not a very active week but good to catch up with all my mates from down south. Back on it next week.

[tomtom]

Good social week there 3T

Tues: Depot. Useless performance but all mileage..
Friday: da cliff. Good session, managed to regain success on my usual 7's and felt stronger on uhand
sun: went to New Mill Tors with falling down. First visit and thought it as really good tbh. Nice rock, and did some great problems.

Starting to feel back to my old strength...

[Muenchener]

STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a. Looking unlikely now for this year.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: yoga
T:
W: pullups, pressups, core
T: Boulderwelt
F:
S: S: Family outing to the mountains with mother-in-law & kids. Castle, boat trip on lake etc.

[Fultonius]

2 Weeks in one!

STG:
1. Make it to October in 1 peice, no injuries and no knee probelms.
2. F7b Onsight in El Chorro and F7c quick redpoint.

LTG: Find some new F8a projects and start working them. Complete one by April. E5 Onsight by next June.

VLTG: Fr8a+ Redpoint, 5+ Fr8a repoints. Boulder 7C/+


Week 1

M: Routes at ratho to test current stamina levels. Onsight F6a, F6b, F6b+, Fbc F6b, F6c. (all 25m) Failed 2 clips form the top of a tricky F7a onsight on the new comp wall.
T: nowt
W: Bouldering sesh at GCC. High volume of problems at V3-V5 range. Minimal rest, steady pump. Not very structured but felt quite effective.
T: nowt
F: Some Weight
Saturday Week 1 to Sunday Week 2:              Holidays....

Training starts NOW!

[i_a_coops]

Friday: Swanage promenade. Looks like an amazing place when it's not gopping with condensation... Since the sport climbing was soaked, I ended up having an 8 hour epic on Benny (a three pitch aiding/caving expedition). Don't even fucking ask. 

In slightly more Power-Club-worthy news I'm finally going to be able to mount my beastmaker tomorrow, hopefully dangling off the slopers regularly will help rehab the creaky scar tissue in my fingers! Going to look into the possibility of building a board in my new crib as well.

[duncan]

Goals

M: recovery
T: The Arch - gentle play
W: shoulder stability stuff
T: Cornish trad. - Xanandu etc.
F: Cornish trad. - America. YYFY!
S: Cornish trad. - easy soloing at Bosi.
S: recovery

America, Carn Gowla (the proper way)

America is the one, still eluding me after 30 years!

Not any longer!  Finally climbed this exceptional route, one of the most satisfying I’ve done in the UK.  First E4 since 1997 and the last of the great Littlejohn N. coast routes.  I started with Eroica in 1980, when a south-west sea-cliffs love-affair began. 

We drove down through spectacular rain, wondering if Carn Gowla would be soaked, but western Cornwall just missed the storm.  There was a brief, teasing, shower as we geared up but otherwise conditions were ideal and the route was almost completely dry.  The sea-level traverse is emphatically the best approach.  We were serenaded by the otherworldly sounds of a seal wailing from the back of the cleft, one of many wonderful moments.   Perhaps this has been a dry year as there was no waterfall so the lasso-Tyrolean was unnecessary.  Get on it now people!   

[andybfreeman]

Goals as always

M - TCA after work. Warmed up on circuits up to blue 7b+ (fell 3 moves from the end). Worked problems on the mothership + new whites. Shoulder stability exercises at home before dinner. Back felt used and abused throughout. Note to self; rest days should not include leg raises from locked off arms!

Tu - TCA after work. Warmed up with two laps of the white 6c then did two full laps of the blue 7b+ which felt easy. Spent some time working whites including a quick send of the prow problem. Had second session with Ru re my right shoulder. He asked me to try an assisted one armer to see how it felt and much to my surprise I managed full unassisted one armers on both arms! YYFY! A party trick but great to feel training and weight loss working together.

W - Rest.

Th - TCA summer comp and BBQ. Scored 360/376 over the 15 problems, hung the sloper for 53.63 seconds then completely failed on the endurance circuit 24/39! Please with my performance and finished off with a bit of campussing, tickled 7 on 1-4-7 on both arms but didn't latch.

F - Quick session at TCA after work before driving up to mum and dad's for the weekend. Worked the final moves of problem 15 and did from a stand but  didn't do the full link. Found out that I'd come 4th in the comp yesterday (YYFY!), equal 3rd on boulder problem scores but lost out on count back based on the circuit. Arrived in time for an excellent barbecue, lamb burgers with grilled aubergine and salad from the garden all washed down with a magnum of 2004 aussie syrah (birthday present from my brother) followed by more wine, cheese then laphroaig to finish!

Sa - Rest; Dad's 60th birthday lunch - 8 course tasting menu @ loves in brum. Included 5 or 6 exceptional dishes with a couple that slightly disappointed. Surreal moment of the day was a banana and lime sorbet served with pork scratchings pre-main - very strange!

Su - Bouldering session @ redpoint with my little bro. In my view this is the best centre in the midlands by some margin with some especially good problems on the barrel/training board. Managed a couple of 7As and 7A+s in a fairly short session but strained my left ring flexor tendon early-on pulling through on a pocket. Climbed the rest of the session on front two and iced when got home. rest tomorrow!

Weight - average for the week of 65.1kg. Weigh in this morning was a pleasant surprise; 65.4kg even after my weekend of serious eating and drinking for my old man's 60th.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing felt battered from yesterday,forearms felt strained probably from falling on my wrists.
Tue. Rockcity felt tired and hot just ended up repeating stuff.
Wed. Had to take the missus to the eye clinic in Leeds so nothing.
Thu. Weights and deadhanging. Used a bit more weight and hung for longer.
Fri. Quick session at Rockcity, did everything I've done before first go.
Sat. Burbidge South and Carhead Rocks.Did More cheese Grommit 7a which I found a touch emotional given the landing.Sort of ran out of energy after this.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 45 mins 46 miles.

[tommytwotone]

Good social week there 3T

Was excellent, though I should imagine it's done me no favours in terms of getting into the top 10 of the Depot league!

Just need to be sensible this week I guess...oh, hang on, Blyth Spartans are playing at Guiseley tomorrow night...

[AJM]

T: Cornish trad. - Xanandu etc.
F: Cornish trad. - America. YYFY!
S: Cornish trad. - easy soloing at Bosi.

I'm not sure if there's a face for jealousy, but if not I want one!
 

[Falling Down]

Duncan - America 

M - Pullups, cardio (row) and weights.
W - Bodyweight exercises in hotel room
S - bike before a wedding
S - New Mills Torrs bouldering and traversing with TomTom before the second wedding of the weekend!

[robertostallioni]

S - bike before a wedding

Standard stag do.

[Neil F]

Re. America

Perhaps this has been a dry year as there was no waterfall so the lasso-Tyrolean was unnecessary....

Wow - I can't imagine how you get past that little zawn without the tyrolean, Duncan.  Do tell more!

You will, of course, have to go back and do the tyrolean for the full, authentic experience. 

Part of the fun is finding the natural thread which you use to retrieve your rope - which is hardly obvious (unless there is a piece of tat already in it, which there wasn't when we did it).

And launching out along the rope above the waves, hoping that the knot which you hurled into an assumed crack (which was completely out of sight) really had jammed properly, was a memorable moment.

Great route.  Can you belive some folk do it by abbing in?

Have you done Guernica?

Neil

[duncan]

Thanks for the comments.  As you'll have guessed, it was a big event for me.

Wow - I can't imagine how you get past that little zawn without the tyrolean, Duncan.  Do tell more!

You will, of course, have to go back and do the tyrolean for the full, authentic experience. 

Part of the fun is finding the natural thread which you use to retrieve your rope - which is hardly obvious (unless there is a piece of tat already in it, which there wasn't when we did it).

And launching out along the rope above the waves, hoping that the knot which you hurled into an assumed crack (which was completely out of sight) really had jammed properly, was a memorable moment.

I hoped that might pique some interest!  We climbed the left wall 15' or so, stepped across where the zawn walls meet, then climbed back down on the other side.  ~VS 4a accounting for perma-slime.  I was, of course, momentarily disappointed to have missed out on the Tyrolean and I still have no idea what you are supposed to lasso even after having climbed past it.     

I found the thread by accident, after setting up a belay.  Not obvious is it?
 

Have you done Guernica?

No. The closest I'd previously been to America was looking down from the top of the crag on a tentative reconnaissance with insect overlord #2.  Fortunately the sea was far too rough and we bailed with a almost-clear conscience.

Tempted by Guernica now, which gives me a chance to atone for the lack of lassoing, but I'm not that long into the latest comeback and yet to crack E5 again.  Can the pegs be backed-up?
 

Can you belive some folk do it by abbing in?

I just don't know how they can live with themselves!

[Big Dave]

couple of gym sessions Mon/Wed
Wimberry bouldering on Sat

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sheeeeet! been slacking lately... Missed last week an everything.

Goals: Feck knows anymore!

Week 78
M: Beastmaker and bar session - Some assisted 1 arm shizz an levers. Pretty short.
T: Isolated hard moves @ The Works - Hard.
W: GF's birthday - Nowt!
T: 4x4's @ The Edge with Chris - Good session but felt tired.
F: Nowt
S: The Edge - 3 x 7b attempts, 15 moves to 30 secs rest 6 times per route - Nearly onsighted one of the buggers which was surprising! AeroCap session to finish - 3 routes for 10 mins.
S: Drive to Cornwall.

Worked hard, good to be back training after the best part of 3 weeks off..

Week 79
M: Nowt
T: Surf at Widemouth - Pretty good session, bit mushy but caught a few.
W: Sore elbows from surfing 
T: Come down with cold 
F: Go to Ansteys - Warm up toproping Empire, feel like shit but it feels easier than before. Have another TR and work it all out. Have a RP and balls up the hand swap in the pocket - Arse! Breeze the rest of it (relatively) but don't have time for another RP.... Go to Bonehill on way back to GF's folks - Do some v4's & 5's and bump into TobyD 
S: Surf at Crooklets - Got a couple, was supposed to be ace but found it punishing getting out with a big floaty board and pretty random breaking waves.
S: Hoped to go to Ansteys but family commitments meant that wasn't possible. Surfed at Widemouth instead - Pretty poor session really, again found it really hard getting out, took more waves on my head than I can remember, took a fin to the arm leaving me with a pretty impressive bruise, numb fingers and a hurty tricep. Almost gave up after an hour then got one half decent ride and forgot about all that... Spent the next hour trying to get another like that!

So that's about the size of it.... Weather, family, work, illness, general apathy etc... Have put a spanner in the works of what should be a good season and I'm currently wondering what the point is..... Need to get out and actually tick summat I think!

This week: Pull the finger out fat boy!!!

:D

[Neil F]

Re. America

... We climbed the left wall 15' or so, stepped across where the zawn walls meet, then climbed back down on the other side.  ~VS 4a accounting for perma-slime.

That's amazing Duncan.  When we did America, the back of that little zawn was dripping wet green slime!  You would never have thought it could be climbed, and certainly not at such a lowly grade.

I was, of course, momentarily disappointed to have missed out on the Tyrolean and I still have no idea what you are supposed to lasso even after having climbed past it.     

I just tied a big knot in the rope and chucked it across the slot, heading for the landward edge of the little ridge, in the hope there would be a crack there which it would jam in.  I enjoyed the fact there was no manual telling you what to do. (I don't think I'm spoiling it for you, because you've been there now!).
 

Tempted by Guernica now, which gives me a chance to atone for the lack of lassoing, but I'm not that long into the latest comeback and yet to crack E5 again.  Can the pegs be backed-up?

Yes, the gear is reasonable.  I remember a good F2 protected the committing moves up left into the overhaging flakes...

[heelhookofglory]

M: Bouldering at AW Stoke, threshold on the woody and also movement training.
T: Shoulder prehab, 3x15 of all exercises.
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Mammoth 6hr bouldering session at Plantation.
S: Rest (growing skin back)
S: Rest (growing skin back)

Been resting tweaky fingers but slowly going to ramp it up again now.

Need to put more effort into shoulder / elbow prefab and get more rock mileage in.

[nai]

stg get heavy
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

M  - volume bouldering at Burbage & Stanage, about 25 problems 4-6c. 50:50 new stuff:repeats
t
W - burbage soloing, about 500ft climbing in 45 minutes
t
F Dumby, second visit and having done ok first time found it proper nails this time.  Pleased to do Toto.

stg going well this week, multiple cooked breakfasts, afternoon cakes and lovely local fish suppers straight out of the sea.