[Fultonius]

Ok, so I'm just starting to feel a bit of decent form coming back as I'm managing to get down the the wall about 3 times a week. Current bouldering level is (indoor) flashing V4, generally getting V5s in about 5 to 10 goes but no V6s yet. And routes - flashing 6c, getting 7a pretty quick and haven't really been trying anything harder.

Current strengths are: Fingers & Forearms (summer's worth of beastmakering)
Current weknesses are: Footwork (partly due to the knee, but more just lack of practise) Core (I'm finding my body sagging badly on steep ground) Stamina

STG: Get Font7as quickly, get back on  7a+/b level; Fr7b; E3  (April)
LTG: Font 7c; Fr8a; E5

In 2 weeks I'm away with work for 3 weeks in Azerbaijan. I've got access to a gym and a pool, there is a pull up bad and lat pull down machine. I'll take my rock-rings (even though they're shit) and I'm considering taking a harness so I can do weighted pullups. We work 12 hour days on site, no days off - so it's pretty hard to be motivated.

What do you think the best plan is for the run-up to the trip, and while I'm away?

I was thinking of really hammering the training on the last week before I go (bouldering, fingerbaord and campus), dig myself deep into a hole and then the first week can mainly be recovery and supercompensation. Second week and third work on core and big pulling muscles. Maybe try and get one or two fingery sessions in during the trip.

Any thoughts?

[SA Chris]

What do you think the best plan is for the run-up to the trip, and while I'm away?

Don't fall asleep behind the wheel and don't get a nasty infection anywhere.

I would get as much real rock mileage as possible while at home, as that's probably what you are missing the most - get to Northumberland or Torridon if you can.

Also work the triceps and shoulders for shitty mantels.

[Fultonius]

Believe it or not, I'd be considered a safe driver in Azerbaijan...

I'm going to be busy both weekends before I go, so rock mileage is not going to happen. Also, bouldering outside is still a bit of a no-go zone with my knee.

March-May is going to be rock time, up till then it's plastic pulling!

[Nan]

Your plan sounds good to me. I work away a fair but only for a week at a time and always plan to use the time to rest up and then do some core work in the hotel room. The problem is that cos im usually shattered from working the rest up usually becomes the full week. Hope you can stick to your plans better than i do with mine

[Nibile]

I'd hit the gym heavy every other day. the pool to recover a bit in the other days, nothing muscular.
in the gym I'd go for power (strange eh?), but only if you're already a bit prepared to heavy loads.
otherwise I'd build it up in the first week, doing 3 sets of 10 reps for each exercise, then in the 2nd week I'd do 4 sets of 8 reps and in the last 4 sets of 6 reps.
abs and front levers (starting from tucked legs) always.

try to stay healthy, I know quality of food can be tricky on such kinds of workplaces. 

[Rocksteady]

I'm sure I've read somewhere that if you are going to have to have an enforced lay-off for a couple of weeks, it can be good to deliberately 'over-train' the week before - i.e. totally beast yourself in the workout before you go away.

Then you can safely do nothing for a while as your body recovers, and when it does, you'll be stronger than before.

On the other hand, I imagine this strategy depends on getting sufficient nutrition and rest, which sounds like it might be difficult with 12 hour working days!

[Fultonius]

Yeah, I've heard that before too - recovery from a short session can be 12-24 hours, but longer sessions more. If I make a conscious effort I can easily get at least 8 hours a night, maybe 9.

If I remember correctly, doing complex supersets taxes your system a lot - might have to get on some of them on the last day before I go!

[Fultonius]

Well, I managed stage 1 of the plan quite successfully - climbed about 4 dyas out the last 7 and left feeling pretty trashed! Also ticked some harder routes and probelms at the wall so everything was going well.

The problem with beasting yourself is it opens up the possibility of the two big-I's  Injury and Illness. Fortunately, for once in my life, it's not an injury! Just a stinking cold, with no possibility of days off until I'm home. Feeling a bit better yesterday so went for a swim but feel like death again today, so it's early bed and recovery time!

Hopefully I'll get at least a couple of gym sessions before I go home...