[cofe]

I'll toot his horn.

[El Mocho]

You need his opinion really, though at the time it was swayed by the assumption that Tom had given it 7b+ or 7c. To me, it looked about 7a+...

We only did it because you told me you had done it. You said that when you had done it it was a 7b, so when we did it we thought it was a 7b. What did Tom not think it was when he didn't do it? I would go with that as he knows much more about grades that me.  Caff just said he was sorry and it was a bit spicy - Lakeland VS that means.

[cofe]

Hit me with some info on the sequence Ben. Is it climbed front on then, from the deck or the ledge? Give me a name (six syllables or less....!)

[El Mocho]

Climbed mostly on the right, although slightly front on, starting off the ledge but with your pads down left on the ground. Caff kept trying some bouncing jump off - ledge then onto the mads - but it looked a bit wild. I just jumped straight onto the mats which was fine.

Grade wise I would say JB is right with 7a+/b. As I said JB said he had already climbed it so unless this was a massive sandbag he should get to come up with a name (probably better for all concerned) if he refuses I am sure that I can think of something but bear in mind quality names like 'pigeon', 'my prune', 'my best friend the watermelon/sparrow' don't come easy so you would have to give me a bit of time.

[Tom de Gay]

I wonder if this was done years ago? The Paul Nunn guidebook had the line of Gaia going up the arete. Either way, I think Grimer should name it as he has the most experience of naming problems on this block.

[grimer]

Huggle in the Juggle

[El Mocho]

Maybe just ask Johnny D, he can always remember exactly what he has done. I think he goes by "if in doubt say you've done it, onsight and solo"

[Johnny Brown]

I don't remember saying I had definitely done it, might have done but I'm not sure. I think Tom may be right that its 'traditional', I'm sure it has been done (long) before this week.

For names, I'd suggest either The Revenge, or Any Dogs Around That Day?

I have a photo for the guide obviously Cofe...

[Tom de Gay]

As for grades, compared with other problems I haven't done I'd say this rates E3 6c.

[El Mocho]

Fuck me, you've got it Tom. I was getting all confused with these font grades when E3 6c covers it perfectly. I am from Yorkshire so would be tempted by 6b as we all know 6c doesn't really exist yet.

I vote for Si O to name and grade it.

[cofe]

You guys...

[Nigel]

Grade wise I would say JB is right with 7a+/b. As I said JB said he had already climbed it so unless this was a massive sandbag he should get to come up with a name (probably better for all concerned)

I wouldn't believe everything JB says in this regard, I've personally witnessed him offhandedly retroclaim gaps up to Font 8c territory as though it ain't no thing. Where's the Jimmy Hill / Tutenkhamun smiley?

I don't remember saying I had definitely done it, might have done but I'm not sure. I think Tom may be right that its 'traditional', I'm sure it has been done (long) before this week.

For names, I'd suggest either The Revenge, or Any Dogs Around That Day?

I have a photo for the guide obviously Cofe...

In light of the usual script for these things, can I suggest "Any Pat Kings Around That Day?" or indeed "Taxi To The Crag".

[Johnny Brown]

Ridiculous. No one ever took a taxi to Black Rocks, the very thought!

[grimer]

 

I imagine in Vertebrate head office Cofe is sitting behind a monitor with a spread of the bouldering guide open at the Black Rocks section, a little cursor flashing at him hungry for a grade.

Might I suggest in situations like this, if E3 6c doesn't work for you ( a beautiful grade, brings a tear to my eye thinking about it), I always find that V5 offers the perfect solution.

[Johnny Brown]

I imagine in Vertebrate head office Cofe is sitting behind a monitor on a kid's trike, lazily peddling in circles whist staring at the ceiling and half-heartedly blowing a party horn. Is it home time yet Mister Jon?

[cofe]

[ferret]

i remember seeing johnny try this on a top rope on its right hand side, he did all the moves and declared it would be e7 7a to "lead it", this was about 12 years ago.

[Bonjoy]

Tried Goya briefly yesterday with Ned. Using the obvious pinch and the shoulder (but not the crack) on the left is a nice move if a bit contrived at about font 6c. By the sound of Tom’s recollection of a pocket on the lip I reckon Goya uses the pinch with left hand, stick a right heel in a pocket out right, reach up to sloper and then somehow reach/lunge some more to pocket on top (We didn’t manage this bit).
P.S. Surely this should be called Gayer. Such a wasted opportunity!