[Andy B]

We had a lock at these yesterday, but were unsure about exactly where they went.

I presume that Route 66 starts on the obvious flat slot down on the left, but then where exactly does it go?

On Goya does the line climb left or right of the main arete? Is the left side of the top in (I pressume the holds in the crack to the left are out)? How does this climb?

For King Edward, the guide describes moving left from some(?) starting position to two opposing side pulls, but online it is described as starting from the two sidepulls?

Thanks in advance for any knowledge.

[Tom de Gay]

On Goya does the line climb left or right of the main arete? Is the left   side of the top in (I pressume the holds in the crack to the left are   out)? How does this climb?

On the steep left side, heel hooks and holds on the right, as I recall.  The last move is a bit of a gripping lunge for a hueco over the lip. Not sure which crack you mean. I don't remember the problem being elimate at all (but it was a while ago).

[grimer]

Hi Andy,

best to refer you to where i got the info:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=147120

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=114706

sorry for the confusion

I think Dr T might be from around there, and Tom de Gay will know about Goya.

[Andy B]

Cheers fellas.

So it seems like King Edward starts from the two sidepulls.

I could still do with more clarification for the exact line of Route 66. Does it go diagonally up from the slot, or traverse right to the edge first? When near the edge, is everything in, or is it eliminate? Hopefully Mark Evans, or someone he climbs with could answer these?

Tom, does Goya go to the hueco on top with your right hand, with your left on a pocket/ pinch on the arete? Or does it go to the hueco with your left somehow?

Thanks again.

[cofe]

I always thought that what became Route 66 was nearly a very good line, but it was flawed for the reasons you mention - specifically does it eliminate stuff? I've not looked at it for a year or two mind.

[Tom de Gay]

It's all a bit lost in the mists of time, so not sure I can give decent beta. Pocket/pinch on the arete with your right I would have thought, as you're climbing the prow on the steep left side, then throw one on for top with your left (or maybe it's your right...)?

[Andy B]

So you definiely throw with either your left or your right. I'll make a note of that.

Goya looks to be the best of the problems (discounting the ones which are really routes) at Black Rocks.

[Bonjoy]

Pardon my ignorance. Is Goya the same as My Brown Trousers, i.e. the lower left arete on the Gaia block and is Route 66 the thing under Pseudonym?

[Andy B]

Yes. I have it down as Brown Trousers in my list of justice too. Better name I reckon.

[Tom de Gay]

Both names courtesy of Grimer, who graciously offered Goya as an alternative name to My Brown Trousers for the new guide. Thought I'd go for Goya, rather than put it to the UKB vote... though My Pigeon the Horse Bean or somesuch would have been more in keeping with tradition.

[Andy B]

You may not remember, but the name My Brown Trousers originally came, indirectly, from you.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7616.msg112878.html#msg112878

[fatneck]

Threads like this are one of the reasons I love UKB...

[Tb]

My interpretation of King Edward, moving left to the side pulls and trying to avoid feet on the back wall would be tricky I think!
Its a shame there isn't more space under the boulder.  Apologies for the quality of the video.

[cofe]

What's people's general take on the bouldering at Black Rocks? I've done bits: most on Railway Slabs, black Gdn, bits on main face, golden days, but nothing on the top blocks. Just wondering how to handle it for the bouldering guide. Ta.

[Johnny Brown]

The Block is the best highball slab venue on grit. If that's not your bag, its not worth a special visit just to boulder unless a local/ connoisseur.

[cofe]

I had a good look at Route 66 today and can only assume that at the grade it avoids the crack at the back.

[Bonjoy]

I think this must be the case. There are two pics of it on UKC and the climber is on the lip on both and there is no chalk on the crack.
Did you check out the angel boulder while there?

[cofe]

Yes. I'll never get those 20 minutes of my life back.

[grimer]

Twenty minutes? That's nothing, I think me and offwidth had three visits to find it.

To be fair, the guide does say that it is of 'minor interest, even to locals'.

[cofe]

There weren't even any locals there when I got there. Speaks volumes.

At least you know your directions work. 

[Johnny Brown]

So if My Brown Trousers is

the lower left arete on the Gaia block

a boulder problem up a small prow on the left of the Gaia block, just beneath slanted and enchanted

then what is the arete directly below the start of Gaia, which is a good problem in the low 7s?

[cofe]

You mean on its right side? Dunno. Isn't it still a project on its left?

[Johnny Brown]

I always thought it was Tom's thing. Ben did it more or less straight on on monday in a few goes, good problem.

[cofe]

Tom's thing is left of it, so I think Ben's is probably new. I think he should call it 'Alan's Deep Bath'. Grade?

[Johnny Brown]

You need his opinion really, though at the time it was swayed by the assumption that Tom had given it 7b+ or 7c. To me, it looked about 7a+...

[cofe]

I'll toot his horn.

[El Mocho]

You need his opinion really, though at the time it was swayed by the assumption that Tom had given it 7b+ or 7c. To me, it looked about 7a+...

We only did it because you told me you had done it. You said that when you had done it it was a 7b, so when we did it we thought it was a 7b. What did Tom not think it was when he didn't do it? I would go with that as he knows much more about grades that me.  Caff just said he was sorry and it was a bit spicy - Lakeland VS that means.

[cofe]

Hit me with some info on the sequence Ben. Is it climbed front on then, from the deck or the ledge? Give me a name (six syllables or less....!)

[El Mocho]

Climbed mostly on the right, although slightly front on, starting off the ledge but with your pads down left on the ground. Caff kept trying some bouncing jump off - ledge then onto the mads - but it looked a bit wild. I just jumped straight onto the mats which was fine.

Grade wise I would say JB is right with 7a+/b. As I said JB said he had already climbed it so unless this was a massive sandbag he should get to come up with a name (probably better for all concerned) if he refuses I am sure that I can think of something but bear in mind quality names like 'pigeon', 'my prune', 'my best friend the watermelon/sparrow' don't come easy so you would have to give me a bit of time.

[Tom de Gay]

I wonder if this was done years ago? The Paul Nunn guidebook had the line of Gaia going up the arete. Either way, I think Grimer should name it as he has the most experience of naming problems on this block.

[grimer]

Huggle in the Juggle

[El Mocho]

Maybe just ask Johnny D, he can always remember exactly what he has done. I think he goes by "if in doubt say you've done it, onsight and solo"

[Johnny Brown]

I don't remember saying I had definitely done it, might have done but I'm not sure. I think Tom may be right that its 'traditional', I'm sure it has been done (long) before this week.

For names, I'd suggest either The Revenge, or Any Dogs Around That Day?

I have a photo for the guide obviously Cofe...

[Tom de Gay]

As for grades, compared with other problems I haven't done I'd say this rates E3 6c.

[El Mocho]

Fuck me, you've got it Tom. I was getting all confused with these font grades when E3 6c covers it perfectly. I am from Yorkshire so would be tempted by 6b as we all know 6c doesn't really exist yet.

I vote for Si O to name and grade it.

[cofe]

You guys...

[Nigel]

Grade wise I would say JB is right with 7a+/b. As I said JB said he had already climbed it so unless this was a massive sandbag he should get to come up with a name (probably better for all concerned)

I wouldn't believe everything JB says in this regard, I've personally witnessed him offhandedly retroclaim gaps up to Font 8c territory as though it ain't no thing. Where's the Jimmy Hill / Tutenkhamun smiley?

I don't remember saying I had definitely done it, might have done but I'm not sure. I think Tom may be right that its 'traditional', I'm sure it has been done (long) before this week.

For names, I'd suggest either The Revenge, or Any Dogs Around That Day?

I have a photo for the guide obviously Cofe...

In light of the usual script for these things, can I suggest "Any Pat Kings Around That Day?" or indeed "Taxi To The Crag".

[Johnny Brown]

Ridiculous. No one ever took a taxi to Black Rocks, the very thought!

[grimer]

 

I imagine in Vertebrate head office Cofe is sitting behind a monitor with a spread of the bouldering guide open at the Black Rocks section, a little cursor flashing at him hungry for a grade.

Might I suggest in situations like this, if E3 6c doesn't work for you ( a beautiful grade, brings a tear to my eye thinking about it), I always find that V5 offers the perfect solution.

[Johnny Brown]

I imagine in Vertebrate head office Cofe is sitting behind a monitor on a kid's trike, lazily peddling in circles whist staring at the ceiling and half-heartedly blowing a party horn. Is it home time yet Mister Jon?

[cofe]

[ferret]

i remember seeing johnny try this on a top rope on its right hand side, he did all the moves and declared it would be e7 7a to "lead it", this was about 12 years ago.

[Bonjoy]

Tried Goya briefly yesterday with Ned. Using the obvious pinch and the shoulder (but not the crack) on the left is a nice move if a bit contrived at about font 6c. By the sound of Tom’s recollection of a pocket on the lip I reckon Goya uses the pinch with left hand, stick a right heel in a pocket out right, reach up to sloper and then somehow reach/lunge some more to pocket on top (We didn’t manage this bit).
P.S. Surely this should be called Gayer. Such a wasted opportunity!