[Andy B]

We are planning on joining the throng in Magic Wood in the summer, but I've been there before so probably know most of the well known stuff. Can anyone tip me off on some lesser known, or newer, quality problems in the 7c to 8a+ range that I could try please? Also if anyone has any recommendations of any quality problems at Gotthardo and Susten Pass (and a topo to Susten Pass), they would be gratefully received too.

Stuff wot I have already done:

Fightclub
Man of a Cow
Foxy Lady
Son of a Gun
Fool Fighter
Sofa Surfer
Down Under
Jack The Chipper
Octopussy
Free For All
Right Hand of Darkness
Left Hand of Darkness
Piranja
Supernova
Massive Attack

Cheers.

[cofe]

Jack's Broken Heart is one I forgot yesterday word. That is the one round from Octopussy, right?

[Andy B]

Yep, nice one, that's on the list if I'm feeling bouncy (although I've just had a lunch of a bumper bag of maltesers and a wispa twin pack, so that's unlikely at the mo.)

[cofe]

maltesers are pretty much health food though, especially if you believe the shorties at our local post office.

you really need to be trying one summer in paradise too.

[Bonjoy]

Shnee Brett - easy and basic but fun 7c
The Gift - Deceptive 7c, looks easy. Short steep slappy arete. We didn't manage, but reckon it would be your bag
At the top of the steep bit above the river there are three great looking highballs which would be good to try if you have a few pads - Il Ballerina 7b+ fingery wall, seemed tough at grade to me; Maruros Line - great looking arete, sadly landing a bit iffy; Angel's Heart - mega looking high 7c wall but with good landing.
How come The Bomb is Explosion is not on your list!? Actually I've no idea what this looks like but the name is amazing.
Last of all I once did a brilliant sloper prob at about 7b+ just left of a lovely mantel on block at river level behind the Grit Deluxe boulder. Very near that big highball arete over the water. No idea what it's called (it's not in topo) but it's a great prob on the most beautiful water washed slopers and well worth seeking out.

[Adam Lincoln]

Astronautenfieber - 8a is pretty cool.

[cofe]

The Bomb is Explosion

ahhhhh, that's what it's called. classic euro problem naming.

[Richie Crouch]

I'd add:

- Small Jack
- Cote de Seshuan
- Unendliche Geschicte II
- Rythmo Brachial
- Electric Boogie

Keen to know if anyone has tried Bomb is the explosion as it looks great in the new Swiss bloc guide but not seen it in the flesh any of the 3 times i've been over!

[cofe]

you seen this as well word?

[Andy B]

I remember the Gift looking good, I'm keen to get on that.

Astronautenfieber is pretty much my top priority, but I'm not convinced that I won't take one look at it, shit myself and run away. There must be a reason why I haven't tried it, and that reason is probably because it's fucking high and steep.

I can't picture Small Jack, so cheers for the recommendation, I'll check it out.

Can anyone tell me the difference between Rhytmo and Rhytmo Brachial?

you seen this as well word?

Cheers bud. I got a Gotthardo guide free with my Chironico guide.

[Adam Lincoln]

I remember the Gift looking good, I'm keen to get on that.

Astronautenfieber is pretty much my top priority, but I'm not convinced that I won't take one look at it, shit myself and run away. There must be a reason why I haven't tried it, and that reason is probably because it's fucking high and steep.

Its not that high. Certainly nothing a few pads wont fix. In fact the cave right next to it usually has a few pads stashed in it.

[Richie Crouch]

I can't picture Small Jack, so cheers for the recommendation, I'll check it out.

Can anyone tell me the difference between Rhytmo and Rhytmo Brachial?

Small Jack is just behind you up the hill if you are at the Sofa Surfer block. Quite high but ok with 2 spotters and some pads.

Rythmo Brachial takes the arete direct at the end instead of going out right (which is meant to be slightly easier).

You've got me psyched to make a list Andy and I'm not going till mid September 

[Andy B]

Cheers Rich.

Rythmo Brachial takes the arete direct at the end instead of going out right (which is meant to be slightly easier).

Is this obvious when you're there or are there rules?

You've got me psyched to make a list Andy and I'm not going till mid September 

Nice one.

[Paul B]

If you've done Left and Right hand of darkness why not sit your ass down and tick the 8c 
Jacks has good moves but is a bit spoilt by the dabtastic location of the nearby boulder IMO.

Batman
Muttertag
Sukkubus etc.

Other things I can think of, one of the top two is very crimpy so might be right down your alley?

[Jim]

electric boodie looks quality, just up a bit from u-boat,
there is an youtube clip of gaz parry on it somewhere.
found it:


muttertag should also be right up you street Andy

[Paul B]

I'd second Jim's suggestion of Electric boogie, looked good but not one for if its hot.

[youngy]

Maybe easy for you, but never the less an amazing looking line!!

[Adam Lincoln]

Oh and how about Steppenwolf (sp?) Can't remember if this is 8a+ or 8b?

[Jim]

its only 7a and not that good a looking line although it climbs ok.
kalorian monster is ok for some sideways slopey crab shuffling

[Paul B]

Oh and how about Steppenwolf (sp?)

out of interest does this top out or what? There's a 7c+ ish wall somewhere that looked crimptastic but I can't remember the name off hand I'll have a gander.

[Adam Lincoln]

Oh and how about Steppenwolf (sp?)

out of interest does this top out or what? There's a 7c+ ish wall somewhere that looked crimptastic but I can't remember the name off hand I'll have a gander.

Jeff Landman certainly topped it out.

[Paul B]

Chickenhead was what I was thinking of. Thought valentine's day (a lowly 7a+) was quite fun right near it too.

[dobbin]

You have to look at one summer in paradise. Although don't discount the end, I honestly think if I am ever going to climb 8b then it will be this one (in other words, its probably not 8b).

Also steppenwolf looked very doable.

Electroboogie is a fab looking problem.

Can't remember who told me, but apparently sustenpass is majorly log.

[a dense loner]

never heard a good word about sustenpass
batman looks piss, batman looks piss, now pull on. ming!!!

[Andy B]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Electroboogie does look very good, but I reckon I'll be lucky to find it cool enough on the slopers for me in mid summer.

I seem to remember Batman looking better than Muttertag, but maybe a bit spicy at the top.

Steppenwolfe definitely tops out up the slopey slab. It's supposed to be OK at the top though. Left foot on the lip near the tree and press it out.

Valentines day is the top section of Fightclub that I've already done. It's pretty stiff for 7a+ and gave several handy UKBers a hard time on its own when we were there!



Does anyone have any more knowledge on Rhytmo/ Rhytmo Brachial?