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Lesser known Magic Wood, Susten and Gotthardo (Read 14727 times)

Andy B

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Cheers Joe, I was considering Gottardo and Susten as heatwave options in case Magic was boiling or humid for a while, so that might still be worthwhile by the sounds of it. I've got a Gottardo guide thanks.

There's no rush at all on the barrow, and the logs could be handy, depending on their length, thanks.

Doylo

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I even gave susten a 2nd chance, was kicking myself after walking up there in the snow when the road was shut, even (**namedrop alert**) davey g's local knowledge and enthusiasm didn't get me psyched. It truly is fuckin shit.

Stubbs

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Second namedrop of the thread, Dave G trumps Jeff Landman! Who's gonna bring out a bigger gun? "When I was spotting Johnny G when he flashed Practice" etc...

Doylo

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I also spotted Nalle on One Summer, you can see me in the background on Abraham Lincolns film PURE!   ;) ;D

dave

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Chris says "hi" from Ceuse.

Jim

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dense says 'hi' from the works

Greg C

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Quote
Greg knows loads more about quieter areas in the Alps so hopefully he will see this thread.

Well I don't know about loads, but here's a few pointers...

Personally, I really rate the Gotthard Pass (or San Gottardo Pass if you're Italian speaking), and the new Swiss Bloc guide covers more areas and blocks than the old green San Gottardo guide – i.e the one you get bundled up with the Chironico guide.

Quality problems: Dark Side of the Moon (7c+/8a) is a fantastic steep side of vertical wall involving some awesome moves via a super thin crack, Tieste Gottardo SDS is world class regardless of the generous 8a grade, as are Ecstasy (7a) and Swiss Corner (7b) on the same block. Another corker worth seeking out is Dadaumpa (7b), this is a steep prow with a committing finish set before one of the best backdrops you'll ever come across. If you are into fingery dynamics, check out out Gygax's Pocket Rocket (8a), low in the grade but still a tricky and excellent proposition. Further down the pass (1800m) at the 'Suworow area' Suworow (7b) and Riven Dell (7b+) are both good and, I thought, hard at the grades. The Alan Parson Project (7a) and Mahna-Manha SDS (7b) are also pretty decent. Finally, if you head down to the 'Mushroom area' Herr Zimmerli (7b) and Signor G (7c) are low in the grade but as good as anything of their style anywhere! Again, the back drops to these climbs are incredible. Above this block (on the other side of the road) is a collection of fingery walls on these, Vamos a la Playa (7c) and Il Vecchio non Dorme (7b) are also well worthwhile.

As to the Sustenpass, I'd agree that it could be better but with a bit of selectivity there are some good problems, and for me the setting alone makes it worth a visit. I visited a 'new' block for the first time the other day, and thought it was pretty cool. The 'Phase Boulder' is actually set above the road just before you reach the tunnel where the 'Road Closed' barrier is situated (as such you can still get to it if the pass is shut for snow etc.). It only features 7 problems but 5 of them are 8a or above and really good if you are into boney crimps...if you're not stay clear.

The Grimsel Pass (1500m) also has a lot to offer but is baking at the moment, as it's at a similar altitude to Magic Wood, which was at 30 degrees the other day.

If there is a bit of breeze you can nip over the Splugen Pass to Cimeganda and Prestone, both are near the road and have some good lines, although again, at 1100m they'll be pretty hot at the moment...

Hope that is of some use.

Andy B

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That's class. Thanks Greg.

Is everything you've just mentioned (bar the stuff over the Splugen) in the Swiss Bloc guide?

Greg C

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Hi Andy, yes all of the above, bar the Italian stuff, is in Swiss Bloc.

Greg C

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A number of the problems mentioned above are included in this gallery...

http://info.rockrun.com/galleries/gotthard-pass-bouldering-46/

dave

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It only features 7 problems but 5 of them are 8a or above and really good if you are into boney crimps...

That doesn't sound like Banks's barrow at all.

cofe

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Just found this. Bit late for banksy, but might be of use to anyone else heading out. Not seen a copy myself mind.

 

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