[Fultonius]

I was just outside doing some pull-ups and fingerboard work. I had a set of electric sclaes nearby and it reminded me of an article/blog post (I thought it was on beastmaker blog) about their relative finger strengths. Can anyone remember the article?

Anyway, using a very (un)scientific protocol I measured the amount of weight I could take on each finger. I converted them into percentages of the total of all 4 fingers. So, here's the results:

Left Hand

Index - 21%
Middle - 37.5%
Ring - 25%
Pinky - 16.5%

Right Hand

Index - 23%
Middle - 37%
Ring - 24%
Pinky - 16%

Yours,

Bored.

[erm, sam]

A while ago I was doing hangboarding standing on scales for assistance and to hang from both little fingers I needed 70kg to be showing on the scales, given that I am 77kg thats 3.5kg of raw load bearing from each finger.... Don't know what the percentages are, probably disapointingly high..

[GCW]

Don't know what the percentages are, probably disapointingly high..

You'll probably find the percentages are much the same.

[Fultonius]

Left Hand

Index - 21%  17.5 kg
Middle - 37.5% 31 kg
Ring - 25% 21 kg
Pinky - 16.5% 13.5 kg

Right Hand

Index - 23% 19.5 kg
Middle - 37% 31.5 kg
Ring - 24% 21 kg
Pinky - 16% 13.5 kg

P.S. This was all open-handed on a first joint edge.

[erm, sam]

    Don't know what the percentages are, probably disapointingly high..


You'll probably find the percentages are much the same.

Huh? Is this like the Bytes/bits thing? did I do something stupid? Not enough maths/literacy/etc?

I was attempting to say the little finger to all fingers strength would be high = I am weak, rather than I am strong, with exceptionally weak fingers, aka a low percentage. Or, did you mean my percentages would probably be the same as Fultonius's? Wah?

[GCW]

I suspect the relative strength of each individual fingers would be similar to Fultonius.  Just the absolute values would be lower.

Unless your little fingers are very weak in compariso to all the others (although 3.5kg doesn't sound right at all).

[Fultonius]

Erm, Sam, how exactly did you measure it?

I just stood on the scales (which are reading a bit high just now  ) and pulled as hard as I could with each finger. I then subtracted the weight displayed on the scales from my lardy bodyweight, which gives you a very rough indication of how much you can pull with each finger.

The percentages are just that value divided by the sum of the four fingers put together. (not the value of me pulling with 4 fingers at once, if you know what I mean)

I'm weighing in at about 77kg just now. I'd doubt you can only pull 7kg with both pinkies, either that or, as GCW says, you've got disproportionately weak pinkies.

[erm, sam]

Well, I pulled with my pinkies untill I couldn't take any more weight and then looked at the scales, oh I remember that was for 5 or 10 seconds or something, so the 1s max is likely higher. Aha, no it was for repeaters, so the max max is likely to be even higher. I'll have another go one time when I have warmed up a bit. I'm not holding my breath though..

[Fultonius]

See, all I needed was a damp, dull Sunday morning to trawl through old beastmaker blog posts to find what I was looking for:

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2008_12_01_archive.html it's the last post on this page.

Looks like my mix isn't too bad, so just need to work on everything! I really want to build up pulley and tendon strength so when i get back to climbing I'm less susceptible to injury.

Sam, if you really can only pull 3.5kg on each pinky, you could really milk some grades out of that weakness!