Hello Joeb,
I would be interested to hear what the well informed on here have to say so hope you get some worthwhile replies.
Im in a similar place, but with sport climber background, and I found periodzation planning worked really well for routes. I now want to do a grit headpoint this winter so looking to adandon the rope and purely work strength and power (where im pathetic) - and im struggling to work out how the periodization works for this and if its as applicable. My current plan is...
- Aiming for peak performance at start of December
- 3 phases between then and now. Strength 5wks, Power 5 wks, Combination, 2 wks.
- Split strength and power between fingers and back.
1. Strength phase
- Fingers. Will be using Beastmaker for finger (currently rock rings) but want an additional finger strength area of exercise (thinking of finger rolls but dont have facilities) - would do 10 move boulder problems if i had a 30degree wall.
- Back/arms. I will be doing weighted pull ups (5 reps).
2. Power phase
- Fingers. Campus laddering, progressing to touches (or whatever theyre called), progressing to double dynos
- Back/arms. Footless bouldering on large ish/ spaced ish holds (if i can get facilities)
3. Combined phase
- Not really sure yet.
Two footnotes:
1. Will be interupting the above with as many trips to grit at weekends as i can
2. Am tempted to bin the whole periodization thing and combine strength and power training in a 'complex training' type schedule as per Eric Horst.