[moeh]

Today i tested my moonboard and i was able to hang on all the holds with one orm. I would like to get stronger on first joint 2 finger pockets and small edges (like 0.25 inch).
Would you continue training on the moonboard and add weight or get another hangboard with smaller grips?

[Adam Lincoln]

If its mounted on wood, pour some hardening liquid into the holes such as plaster of paris. Hence making them smaller. Can you really hold the 2 different size edges one handed?

[Drew]

Ben Cossey filed down the edges on his Moon Fingerboard.

[Adam Lincoln]

Ben Cossey filed down the edges on his Moon Fingerboard.

  I am weaker than i thought!

[moeh]

At the two different edges i can almost hang one handed. If i stand on a scale and pull on them with 4 fingers there is like 5 kg left. For all the other holds i can hang one handed for several seconds.

[dobbin]

No you're not adam - dont sweat it, re read moeh's post - he used a single ORM to hang from the crimps - an Orm is a suit made from the claws of lobsters which gives the wearer super powers.

Use less fingers moeh. When James Pearson was able to hang on those tiny crimps with one hand he was flashing font 8a problems. The thing is - do you really want to make the holds smaller? cos all this will do is nail your skin. It would be better to use less fingers or add weight but use a bigger hold. Honest.

Get a beastmaker, to do just that...

[Paul B]

Follow Varians 3-2-1 it makes sense and has backing in SCIENCE or so I'm told.

I'd also like to point out that standing on a set of scales and holding those crimps one armed with 5kg left is a million miles away from hanging them one armed. You're not resisting the twisting from the one armed hang, you're unlikely to be in the correct body position etc. etc.

Dobbin - I think James' goal was to hang the small crimps on the moon fingerboard, 3 fingers open, wearing his weight belt (1 stone in weight). I'm not sure if he ever managed it but he came really close one day up at the board before ripping off violently.