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significant repeats (Read 5002567 times)

jwi

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#9450 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2021, 09:42:00 am
Even when viewing it from the road it is obvious that some holds are manufactured. For more details, ask people who have actually done (or at least tried the route). Due to marketing pressures many seem unwilling to comment in public, but are quite willing to comment off record. More than one high level climber has lost interest in trying it due to the artificial nature of the route.

SA Chris

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#9451 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2021, 10:15:43 am
Assume the "work" wasn't done by any of the early ascensionists?

SA Chris

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#9452 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2021, 10:42:51 am
ignore - repeat post

teestub

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#9453 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2021, 06:40:51 am
Camera toting big unit Jon Glassberg has done The Nest at Red Rocks. At a reported 6’3” and 86KG some inspiration for the more full grown climbers of the forum!

jwi

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#9454 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2021, 04:00:22 pm
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the second solo of Darwin Dixit, which apparently is 8c again due to some loss of holds

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jorge-diaz-rullo-escala-darwin-dixit-8c-sin-cuerda/

Darwin Dixit is the second 8c mini route that Díaz-Rullo has soloed

Danny

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#9455 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2021, 05:27:05 pm
Camera toting big unit Jon Glassberg has done The Nest at Red Rocks. At a reported 6’3” and 86KG some inspiration for the more full grown climbers of the forum!

That's pretty much me to the kg/inch.  :clap2:

kingholmesy

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#9456 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2021, 10:01:05 pm
Camera toting big unit Jon Glassberg has done The Nest at Red Rocks. At a reported 6’3” and 86KG some inspiration for the more full grown climbers of the forum!

That's pretty much me to the kg/inch.  :clap2:

No more excuses then hey.  :tease:

abarro81

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#9457 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2021, 11:13:51 pm
Eder (Sheffield's resident strong Basque) did Rainshadow today

Wood FT

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#9458 Re: significant repeats
April 09, 2021, 07:57:03 am
Eder (Sheffield's resident strong Basque) did Rainshadow today

Excellent

IanP

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#9459 Re: significant repeats
April 10, 2021, 08:35:09 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNfwZbNDl5b/?igshid=v1uhmuygym2e

Seems like it should be in here, big couple of hours including a flash of the Hulk 7C+ by MTS.

Another British comp climber who needs to spend less time trying to jump around on volumes and more time boneing down on crimps outside?  :-\

Duma

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#9460 Re: significant repeats
April 10, 2021, 08:36:07 pm
Ah, just beat me to it! Great effort, hardest boulder flash by a British woman? Would go nicely with her 8b sport flash.

Fiend

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#9461 Re: significant repeats
April 10, 2021, 08:40:25 pm
 :strongbench: STRONG. They better be setting some rat crimp board problems in the next comps she's going to.

T_B

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#9462 Re: significant repeats
April 10, 2021, 10:27:57 pm
Of course being intimately familiar with a boulder problem gives you a different perspective, but for me there’s only really Mina’s Careless ascent that’s up there with this in terms of UK women’s bouldering. I know on paper the 8Bs/8B+s are ‘harder’ but Hulk would be 8A anywhere else in the world (IMO) and is all about subtlety and timing and how you take the holds, unless you are punching way below your weight. Amazing.

turnipturned

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#9463 Re: significant repeats
April 11, 2021, 08:40:56 am
In terms of ‘on British soil’, I would say Nia Fletcher doing Sidekick on the bowderstone is pretty impressive. 8A+ in my book!

Bradders

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#9464 Re: significant repeats
April 11, 2021, 08:50:33 am
Of course being intimately familiar with a boulder problem gives you a different perspective, but for me there’s only really Mina’s Careless ascent that’s up there with this in terms of UK women’s bouldering. I know on paper the 8Bs/8B+s are ‘harder’ but Hulk would be 8A anywhere else in the world (IMO) and is all about subtlety and timing and how you take the holds, unless you are punching way below your weight. Amazing.

This is helpful context, having never been to cragx she makes it look so utterly casual it's hard to understand how impressive a feat it is.

remus

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#9465 Re: significant repeats
April 11, 2021, 09:11:58 am
Well good! Strong day overall too, can't help but feel there's more in the tank for her.

Ah, just beat me to it! Great effort, hardest boulder flash by a British woman? Would go nicely with her 8b sport flash.

Surely up there? Would be interested to hear of other hard flashes, I cant think of much off the top of my head.

p.s. Molly also onsighted 8b last year (https://climbing-history.org/climb/462)

Wood FT

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#9466 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 09:37:17 am
Rhoslyn Frugniet has repeated Tuppence at Anstey's Cove. Although we seemed to have moved away from making a point of first female ascents, this is significant because it is essentially the 'Mecca' of South West sport climbing and I think it is very much worth making a note of her achievement. Whether it has the 'lowly' grade of 8b or not. Short video of the ascent here:


csl

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#9467 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 09:43:11 am
Was about to post that in quality chuffing vids. Definitely liquid climbing as you say in the description, great to watch!

Duma

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#9468 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 09:51:35 am
...this is significant because it is essentially the 'Mecca' of South West sport climbing...

...which she also did last year in a couple of sessions. (Tuppence is also obviously loads better than Mecca)

Her 2020 sport ticklist has got to be the best ever for a female brit? Even more impressive considering it was all on UK soil.

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#9469 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 09:53:07 am
Nice climbing and nice clear footage.

ali k

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#9470 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 09:58:55 am
Rhoslyn Frugniet has repeated Tuppence at Anstey's Cove. I think it is very much worth making a note of her achievement. Whether it has the 'lowly' grade of 8b or not.

It can’t be 8b with the shorty beta. Must add a grade on if not more. Bottom throw to the break is harder (granted you can rest after this) then the high feet roll out to the pocket ‘jug’ is way way harder. Thinking about it almost every move on it would be harder for her height.

remus

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#9471 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 10:08:23 am
Her 2020 sport ticklist has got to be the best ever for a female brit? Even more impressive considering it was all on UK soil.

To save the hassle of searching

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=179119&sort=g&country=0&crag=0&gradetype=3&partner=0&year=2020&season=0&nresults=100&pg=1

Not sure I'd go quite as far as best ever but definitely impressive stuff. Molly TS did 3x 8cs, an 8b OS and an 8b flash last year, and all her 8cs were in Frankenjura which isn't exactly a known soft spot.

abarro81

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#9472 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 10:19:40 am
Her 2020 sport ticklist has got to be the best ever for a female brit? Even more impressive considering it was all on UK soil.

To save the hassle of searching

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=179119&sort=g&country=0&crag=0&gradetype=3&partner=0&year=2020&season=0&nresults=100&pg=1

Not sure I'd go quite as far as best ever but definitely impressive stuff. Molly TS did 3x 8cs, an 8b OS and an 8b flash last year, and all her 8cs were in Frankenjura which isn't exactly a known soft spot.

4x 8c, 6x8b+, 9x 8b (inc the o/s and flash) for Molly looking at 8a. Some of those FJ 8cs are pretty chill for the grade, but then Smith and Wesson feels like 8c+ rather than 8b+ to me so swings and roundabouts! Anyway, yeah I'd say your options for "best ever sport year for a female Brit" are likely to be Molly last year or Twyford doing Big Bang, depending on what value you put on onsight/flash/volume vs single hard RP.

teestub

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#9473 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 10:20:56 am
this is significant because it is essentially the 'Mecca' of South West sport climbing

Looks better than Mecca, goes to the top of the crag at least!

Duma

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#9474 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2021, 10:43:51 am
Reckon you could do the Oak in sub 2 mins Shark?

 

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