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significant repeats (Read 4636402 times)

ghisino

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#6600 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 10:36:54 am
you'll be impressed, i wouldn't be surprised if one day i'm trying it, he comes by and cruises it in 10 tries or so.

he's strong as fuck, he looked good on slabs on the few comps i've seen last year, and duel is not as ultraspecific weirdness as one might expect...what makes it hard compared to the average 7a-c font slab, is not that the feet are shittier or that it's more delicate, but that you must pull much harder and is more of a conditions-bitch, as it is north facing and the crux holds feel more like 3 mm rounded edges, rather than zazor blade sharp, credid card thin grattons. BTW, that's what makes it 5 star...

imho there is one problem that looks much closer to what people expect from a very hard font slab (credit card ladder?) : http://bleau.info/champlaid/132.html

Nibile

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#6601 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 10:45:55 am
Cheers for the insight my friend.
Still no chance for him in having another facial expression though.
This is still cynical Saturday.

r-man

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#6602 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 11:16:15 am
On his Facebook page he says...


Hey today i did the alchemist, the direct way...The direct way is the one that goes to the left. It's a nice 8b+, I'll repeat it at least ten times and probably one for a video, eventually with a sit start.

jwi

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#6603 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 07:35:32 pm
I'll have to see it to believe it.

Oldmanmatt

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#6604 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 07:52:07 pm
Brining this thread back on track.

Lets talk serious Turkey...




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tomtom

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#6605 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2016, 08:53:11 pm
Blatant cheat - that Minion head is full of Helium...

Will Hunt

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#6606 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2016, 07:01:49 pm
 :off:  :sorry:
Is that Ziggy in your avatar?

tomtom

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#6607 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2016, 07:05:43 pm

:off:  :sorry:
Is that Ziggy in your avatar?

Nope. I'd never shop at AandF :) it's culled from tinterweb somewhere..

slackline

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jwi

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#6609 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2016, 02:33:03 pm
Captain Safety is fast

shark

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#6610 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 09:31:46 am
From Facebook sounds like Ella "Queen of the Wave" Russell has done Quarantine 8A, a traverse at Anston.

Video of her bf on it:


Tommy

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#6611 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 10:09:12 am
Good work Ella!!

Moo

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#6612 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 06:02:52 pm
Neds just done voyager sit.

36chambers

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« Last Edit: February 03, 2016, 06:15:10 pm by 36chambers »

andy_e

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#6614 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 07:06:39 pm
 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Footwork

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#6615 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 07:32:17 pm
Also a one day ascent of the alchemist for Jimmy webb. Doesn't say which beta he used but he gave it 8B.

Well done Ned!

dave

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#6616 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 08:07:38 pm
But he had to resort to wearing rockshoes, right?

Fiend

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#6617 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 08:10:42 pm
What a beast Ned. Great stuff  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Already psyched for the slackline repost in a fortnight too  :dance1:

Stu Littlefair

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#6618 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 08:18:12 pm
Well done Ned!


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ghisino

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#6619 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2016, 11:04:46 pm
Brining this thread back on track.

Lets talk serious Turkey...




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i have a serious technical question to be answered before next friday.

how the hell do you tie in with such costume?

is something like a large piece inside (hex?), then costume's outer layer, then some knot squeezing the piece?

Fiend

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#6620 Re: significant repeats
February 04, 2016, 09:09:24 pm
More details about Ned's ascent of Voyager SS and his current form: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70240

 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Will Hunt

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#6621 Re: significant repeats
February 04, 2016, 09:16:07 pm
Is the sit to Voyager really only 7B into the 8B stand?! Considering the sit has seen so few ascents and the stand has been done a fair bit, 7B doesn't seem much to add?

Johnny Brown

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#6622 Re: significant repeats
February 04, 2016, 09:24:13 pm
I think it's more a case of how many split tips you want to throw at a problem. I guess the start is enough to raise the probability from might split to will split.

Fiend

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#6623 Re: significant repeats
February 04, 2016, 09:31:57 pm
On paper that does sound a bit unappealing. But then again, THE LINE  :punk:

a dense loner

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#6624 Re: significant repeats
February 04, 2016, 09:36:45 pm
Is nowhere near as impressive as the Sphinx 3ft above it

 

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