As an aside, for Broughton regulars, the 'Burly One' seems to suffer from indoor undergrading in my view and is never F8a in a month of sundays. I would say the whole link is Font 7c (2 font 7b's back to back?) but with no rest inbetween. According to the chart, it should be F8b but i would probably say F8a+ as it is not a short route and is straying into power enduro territory where a separate table would be needed
In North Wales we've always gone with Font 7b+ = F8a, Font 7c = F8a+ etc, but then the assumption was that you were talking about the whole route and not just the crux. Obviously this only really works with long problems.
Is this about right or are there any glaring exceptions?
Pump up the power, font 7c+/8a+?
The problem is that even a few easy but strenuous moves before a boulder section can make it harder
I always thought font 8a = 8b french ish, or maybe 8b/+ french.
I'm sure we've done this topic to death before. I remember Panton saying I must be shit at routes or something
with extended boulder problems that have dodgy landings should we be giving them a french grade followed by some kind of danger/seriousness indicator?
boulder problems given a sport grade are always easier to do than actually doing a route of that grade simply because you don't have to pause to clip, and you can generally pull on and work every move.