[andy_e]

Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.

more of a local problem that a national classic?

Have you done it? The moves are great.

The holds are too sharp for it to be an uber-classic.

[Kingy]

Deliverance...can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.

Hi r-man, interesting thoughts on the 2 available methods. I was under the impression that it was first done by this 'lankpoint' method back in the day and it was only in the last few years that the new rockover method was envisioned. As this new method is an easier way of doing a classic problem, I wonder is it perhaps a little unfair to deride the original dyno sequence as a 'lankpoint'. I don't think the dyno method is in any way inferior, I wish I could do it this way actually although am thankful for my tick with the apparently 'superior' rockover method  .

[andyh]

Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.

it's clearly not

It's clearly not V5. V4 maybe if you are giving an extra grade for height.

i don't think v5's unfair, and that what it's been given for years. relatedly, boysens groove's is down as 4 when i thought it benchmark 3? anyway...

Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.

more of a local problem that a national classic?

Have you done it? The moves are great.

[/quote]

did it a few years ago, its pretty good for a lancs quarries problem, but you wouldn't travel from shef/wales specifically for it.

should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?

Deliverance isn't ruined in any way. It is amazing, but can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.
[/quote]

the smears for the dyno method are a lot better than they used to be, or seemed to be to me anyway. the dyno is one of my favourite moves ever.

[r-man]

Kingy, I'm aware of how it was originally done. The rockover method is a unique move, whereas dynoing off smears isn't (fun though it may be). I'm not one of the anti dyno brigade, I just think the rockover method is pretty special, and it's a shame this isn't the only way up.

Andi_e, go back and try it again now you're stronger.

[220bpm]

Right, well down at the bumbly end of the list I'd go for Dannys Wall at Loch Buie, Isle of Mull as the best Font 5 I've done in the UK (better than The Blobs anyway, imo).

Rampaging up the grade scale, two very very good Font 6a's were Crucifix Traverse (including undercut start) at Kyloe In and Cortege Crack (6a+?) on Ben Ledi.

I could list quite a few really good Font 6b's to f(l)ail spectacularly on, if thats of assistance? 

[andy_e]

Andi_e, go back and try it again now you're stronger.

The holds are still sharp though 

[TomP]

A few more recommendations from Yorkshire (I'm very biased) 

Syrett's Roof (V6) - Almscliff
Zoo york (V11) - Caley
Banana Republic (V11) - Caley
Maurice Chevellier (V2/3) - Caley
Terry (V9) - Caley
Heaven in Your hands (V10) - Brandith
Vim - (V3)Shipley
Millstone Grit (V8) - Shipley
Big Kicks (V9ish)- Lord's Seat
Fluide - (V9)Brimham Outlying
Boris or Bust (V5ish) - Brimham Outlying
Barry Kingsize (V7)- Crookrise
Rhythm (V12) - Flasby Fell
Curious Yellow (V11) - Ilkley
McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat
Cocoa Team Special (V9) - Rhylstone
Hunter's Roof -(V9) Hunter's Stones

That's just the tip of the massive ice berg

[dave]

Kingy, I'm aware of how it was originally done. The rockover method is a unique move, whereas dynoing off smears isn't (fun though it may be).

i fail to see how rocking onto a smear is any more unique that jumping off some lower smears.

[andy_e]

No McNab tom?

[andy_e]

oh cocktits

McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat

No McNab tom?

[Pantontino]

A few more recommendations from Yorkshire (I'm very biased) 

Syrett's Roof (V6) - Almscliff
Zoo york (V11) - Caley
Banana Republic (V11) - Caley
Maurice Chevellier (V2/3) - Caley
Terry (V9) - Caley
Heaven in Your hands (V10) - Brandith
Vim - (V3)Shipley
Millstone Grit (V8) - Shipley
Big Kicks (V9ish)- Lord's Seat
Fluide - (V9)Brimham Outlying
Boris or Bust (V5ish) - Brimham Outlying
Barry Kingsize (V7)- Crookrise
Rhythm (V12) - Flasby Fell
Curious Yellow (V11) - Ilkley
McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat
Cocoa Team Special (V9) - Rhylstone
Hunter's Roof -(V9) Hunter's Stones

That's just the tip of the massive ice berg

Good list Tom, some very strong candidates there, however I have to be a pedantic git and point out that Heaven in Your hands was in the original list (not that I've done it or anything).

[Jim]

did vim today, its very good. red baron is excellent also.
I don't think curious yellow or hunter roof should be on the list

[chillax]

Solidarity is a gem. Some day!

The only other Irish suggestion I'd make would be Darkness Before the Dawn in Glendasan. Proper awe-inspiring!

[dontfollowme]

At the easy end of the scale I've always found Elephants Ear at Baldstones to be pleasant.

[meatball]

Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)

[SA Chris]

At the easy end of the scale I've always found Elephants Ear at Baldstones to be pleasant.

Good call.

[Richie Crouch]

V1 - Leaving the car
V2 - Walk in
V3 - Split traverse
V4 - Beaver RH
V5 - Right wall Traverse
V6 - Pillar Start
V7 - Beaver Cleaver
V8 - Clever Beaver
V9 - Rockatrocity
V10 - wobbly block start/Lou Ferrino

Classic circuit 

[uptown]

On a complete tangent, have you run out of ideas for places to do Stone Circles? Just wondered with the most recent one I saw being for a climbing wall. I can think of a few good ones I don't think you've done yet.

Yeah, I suggested a Nidderdale tour once, but to no avail. Could've done with some traffic to keep the moss at bay. Never mind, it's probably best to keep all the sketchy footwork pebble snappers indoors.
I know that folk don't try/do it often for logistical reasons, but Pistol whip at the cliff is one of the best grit highballs going. Like wss in quality. I know two fellas off here who might agree?

[TomP]

Pistol whip at the cliff is one of the best grit highballs going

I hear dat!!! Forgot about that one, very very good.
Also, how could we forget Jess's Roof at the cliff 

[SA Chris]

Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.

Queen Kong 

STFU. What I meant to type, but I have congenitally stubby fingers.

[richdraws]

Chariots of Fire at Ilkley is fun in the upside down clamping vein.
Si's arete is good in the arete clamping style.
The terrace is good fun in the downgraded clamping style.
Gonna have another attempt at clamping along Low Ryder, which is awesome.

[BenF]

Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)

You mean Ron's Arete.  Unless you've been back to Earl since sunday.  Whatever though, Ron's Arete is ace. 

[granticus]

On consideration here is a totally Devoncentric list of top quality shire problems.

V1 – Hanging Groove- Combeshead Tor
V2 – F.E.A.R. – Lynmouth West
V3 – Most Acceptable Arete – Lynmouth East
V4- Hanging Flakes – Combeshead Tor
       Rippled Wall – Bonehill
V5-  Proof of Concept – Combeshead Tor
       Rowe’s Arete – Black Hill
V6 – The Wave – Bonehill
     -Hung Like a Chimp – Raven’s Rocks – Lustleigh Cleave
V7 – Dancing Queen – Saddle Tor
       No More Nails - Lynmouth East
V8 – Carnage – Hartland Quay
       The Left Arete of the Scoop – Bonehill
       Super Trooper - Saddle Tor
V9/10? – Ache Ball – Hartland Quay

[Jim]

Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)

You mean Ron's Arete.  Unless you've been back to Earl since sunday.  Whatever though, Ron's Arete is ace. 

is this the arete left of john dunne slab and then the slab to the left of that?
Was going to atempt these last time I was there but it was raining and was too busy watching saltbeef get shut down on a 6b+

[Idol eyes]

I know a great way to rate the best uk problem...
Its a system that is sim..................