[granticus]

This has to go in just for the crag name!

Sorry my bad...  Should read

Raven's Tor - Lustleigh Cleave..  Probably not as exciting now is it?

Come on Granticus, don't go teasing, give it to me straight - you got classics, I want to know!

Fair enough. IMO We got classics....... there is a subtle hint from Mr Crocker in the front cover of the new(ish) Cheddar and Avon Guide.

I would suggest as classic lines.....

Anarchy Arete at around V3/4 (highball or E3 in old money) near Lynmouth.

Tutan Come On V3 Giza area near Lynmouth.

For starters...

[cofe]

L'angle Shropfait needs to go on there too. One of the best problems in the country.

[Andy F]

At V2 how's about The Ramp at Bridestones?

Is this the thing that Charlotte Rampling climbs into?

'Tis indeed. A brilliant little V2.

Charlotte itself if a fantastic V5, a superb example of Gritstone 'Knack', easy when you know how, deperate when you don't. Typical Kebs...

[GCW]

Andy, you obviously haven't been recently.  The feet are now enormous eroded sandy holes making it into a shitty, sandy, static V3.  Real shame.

[Andy F]

You're right, it's been a while and it does sound llike a real shame that a UK classic is reduced to the status of a southern softstone shithole

[Idol eyes]

Carn Brea arete?
Anything on Bosigarn lower tier?

[tomtom]

Can you do multiple polls in a single post on this BB?
If so you could put up 8-10 for each grade and then have a vote??

[SA Chris]

Death Jug Mantle at Smallcombe "V1" class.

[Jim]

L'angle Shropfait needs to go on there too. One of the best problems in the country.

Thats not hard, this can't go on the list as its got one of the dirtiest, sharpest crimps I've ever pulled on

[Jim]

the ramp, aka lager lager lager at earl has to be on that list

[r-man]

Ok then - bad choices:

Pick pocket crack - not that great.
Not to be taken away - not at all great.
Sloping beauty - good, but quite far down the list of earl crag classics (Andy Brown's Wall, Lager..., Underworld, Desert Island arete). Plus, the good move is eliminate.
Pilgrimmage - not a boulder problem.

Problems that should be on there:

Crescent Arete - best problem in the peak?
Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems. The square is also great at V2.
Suavito - second best problem in the peak.
Andronicus
Voyager ss

[Jim]

the rock on voyager is 'orrible.

Horror arete at kebs is tres bon.
banana republic ss at caley is a mighty good looking problem (not tried it tho)

[r-man]

the rock on voyager is 'orrible.

That's a shame. It looks so good.

Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.

[dave]

ditto the voyager rock comment. suavito is good but marred by the landing. andronicus is in a dank pissfilled pr0no cave. pilgrimage IS a boulder problem. DIA is great but there are much much better 7as around.

hows about shit like:

dawn raider 7c
yorkshireman sitter 7c+
secret seventh 7b+
eatswood traverse 7c
thundering apoplexy 7b
art of white hat wearing 7b
seans arete 7b
face on the andle stone 7b
high speed imp act 7a+
Ping Pong Rib Arete 7a+
Mr Whippy 7a+
brads arete 7a/+ whatever
English Voodoo 7a
stall 7a


problem with lists like this is we tend to be over diplomatic and feel the need to select problems from a representative selection of crags, when thats no necessarily where the best shit is.

[Drew]

Simon. How could you miss Porth Ysgo? Truth SS, Jawbreaker, Ysgo Crack, Incredible Shaking Man SS? And what's that problem on the big block further round. It's not Made In Heaven is it?

[r-man]

Andronicus is in a cave, but the climbing is incredible. Maybe for some the aspect is an issue.
Sauvito is not marred by the landing. I've seen people take repeated lobs of the top, none of them went anywhere near the scary boulder.

Lots of your grit suggestions are pretty good, but there are so many in the same really-good-but-not-the-best-ever bracket. Which is maybe the thing about grit - most problems are pretty good. There might not be so many wild moves, but the average standard is pretty high, and lots of unlikely bits of rock turn into satisfying experiences.

What about that stuff at Queen's Crag? Worldline and that 8a clampy thing both look fantastic.

[Jim]

take anything at eatswood off that list.

spare rib at stanton is also tre bon

[Drew]

Just did a  search for Made in Heaven, and found this:

Title: Best problems of their grade
Post by: Pantontino on March 21, 2003, 12:26:09 am
Here's mine (mostly Wales with a couple of Yorkshire, Peak and Northumberland ones thrown in):

V1 Stairway (P Ysgo)/ Supa Dupa Fly (Lower Satellites)
V2 Super Boulder Ramp
V3 Caseg Fraith Arete
V4 Made in Heaven/ Boysen's Groove/Piton Crack(Woodhouse Scar)
V5 Caseg Groove/ Chaos Emerald Crack
V6 King Of Drunks/ Limpet
V7 TISM sd/ Lickety Split
V8 Red Baron/ Willy 2 Goes (Meadow)
V8+ Sonic Boom/ West Side Story
V9 Jerry's Roof
V10 Main Vein
V11 The Crack (Bowden)
V12 Pool Of Bethesda
V13 Cypher


You're relatively consistent at least 

[SA Chris]

What about that stuff at Queen's Crag? Worldline and that 8a clampy thing both look fantastic.

Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.

[andyh]

thundering apoplexy 7b

for the run and jump method or the non run and jump method. does it really get 7b for run an jump?

Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.

it's clearly not

Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.

more of a local problem that a national classic?

should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?

[dave]

thundering apoplexy 7b

for the run and jump method or the non run and jump method.

the non.

[Fiend]

Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.

Queen Kong 

[SA Chris]

Andy, you obviously haven't been recently.  The feet are now enormous eroded sandy holes making it into a shitty, sandy, static V3.  Real shame.

That's a real shame. I'm not sure I ever want to go to the Bridestones again and tarnish my memories of the place. One of the first places I ever went to in Yorkshire, and where I first met HK Stu. And control freak, for that matter.

[Pantontino]

Made in Heaven should definitely have been in there - it's still the best problem at Porth Ysgo imo.

[r-man]

Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.

it's clearly not

It's clearly not V5. V4 maybe if you are giving an extra grade for height.

Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.

more of a local problem that a national classic?

Have you done it? The moves are great.

should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?

Deliverance isn't ruined in any way. It is amazing, but can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.