[chappers]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

[Dave Westlake]

"It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr." - Soxs[/i]

>    

"although the dyno on ache ball certainly aint the crux!! " - JR

> So people say.  Out of interest, which move do you consider to be the crux JR?  

I always find dynos hard and i had real trouble getting my left hand to feel solid in the finger jam thingy (my thin fingers kept slipping down) Si young apparently finds this easy (but then he does have pretty fat fingers), and  Mr. Littlefair seemed to agree with me that the dyno is tricky.

On a good session i was repeatedly getting from the start to the dyno (via the supposed 'crux' moves).

I can also see that, in isolation, the dyno may not be too bad, but the context of the preceding moves makes it harder?

[JR]

i have a video of it being done on my puter and i stopped filming once pearson got to the dyno cos i figured it was all over cos we'd both done it no probs...  

i seem to remember him finding the crux getting on the the sidepully rib to then get into position to do the dyno...

i only had a brief go cos i was just out of hossy and the first move hurt.

[a dense loner]

and Mr. Littlefair seemed to agree with me that the dyno is tricky

have never seen it, don't know whether it's a long dyno, awkward one or what but the image of a midget saying the dyno is tricky is going to amuse me for the next few hours, no offence meant stu

[Soxs]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

Sorry Mr. Oxford English, I was rushing this morning. I'll try to improve. :cry:

[Stu Littlefair]

Effort Mr Hippy.  8a's all round! (except you dense).

The "dyno" (read big slap) at the end is easy on it's own but I never got the finger lock very well from the start, which made it harder. I got the the dyno from the start in my first session, but it took me a couple more to crack the nut, so to speak.

Ace problem this - should be on the hit list of everyone with a fast car and a lot of tape to protect their soft little fingertips.

[a dense loner]

i only have an old 205 that won't start now cos it's too bloody cold. good friction, shite car, damn

[chappers]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

Sorry Mr. Oxford English, I was rushing this morning. I'll try to improve. :cry:

its ok nick, just dont do it again

[Soxs]

Have you denied any children the chance of an education so far this week? Just think, in a few years time this forum could be awash with crap spellers and it could all be your fault.

[chappers]

Most of the children I put in school, or rather don't put in school, the only thing they know what to do with a computer is steal it, certainly not use it so no danger of  UKB being over run by poorly educated Croydon scally wags.

[Soxs]

On the evidence of that last post chris, my spelling is less of a worry than your grammer. Just read that back and try again.


Beta = ;

[KH]

Does anyone hany any pictures / video / beta for Ache Ball?  Looking to get down there as soon as the tides are right.

[Stu Littlefair]

There's footage of Youngie repeating it for the cameras on Gone West, Caedmon's SW bouldering magnum opus. As far as beta goes, start as for my pocket-power-midget friend in the shot above, reach out with RH for nasty, nasty crimp (I superglue tape to my fingertips to avoid massive flesh rippage). Now bump LH up arete and shuffle heel up higher, bump LH again into obvious corner slot. Shufty feet around and jump to jug. Let out power-roar. Let go. Repeat.

The tide can vary the height of the problem a lot; at times you'll have to dig the start out, like in the photo. When I repeated it, the starting holds were at head height...