[Dave Westlake]

This is a bit 'deep' im afraid, but here goes...

I expect many of you have suffered from this at some point, and im wondering what people do to avoid losing heart with a long term project.

Repeatedly falling off the last move :evil: of my current obsession is beginning to do my head in, to extent that part of me wants to jack it in.  Problem is, after all the time and effort (and fuel money) ive invested i cant bear to let it go.

How do you stay psyched enough not to give up during such a frustrating period??

cheers, Dave

[Carnage]

Taking a break and trying something else can help. I did that on a project. I was getting so pissed at not doing the last move I started on another (which happened to be the same grade), did that, went back to my project with renewed confidence and did it in a couple of tries.  :D

[a dense loner]

yep, nearly always the case

[Doylo]

depends why your failing. Is it strength, conditions??

[Stu Littlefair]

chip it.  :shock:

[chappers]

just move to the lakes and join the south lakes mafia.  
pick a new project up that way, plently of stuff to go at.

ill send back your dvds at some point, just gotta get around to copying them.:wink:
chappers

[moose]

I definitely agree with the take a break school of thought (from my limited experience).  Personally I suspect that if you keep trying a project unsuccessfully (and you're not failing because of plain physical lack) all you're doing is wiring wrong ways to do it.  A lengthy break might help clear the motor memory of some of this inefficient mental detritus - allow you to go back to it and hopefully quickly dispatch it in a way that has you wondering what the fuss was about (sports science books etc go on about clearing engrams etc  - sounds a bit scientologist but makes some sense).  

My most frustrating projects were all worked to a standstill before being left alone for a few months whilst I recovered sanity / perspective and then, after maybe a visit to reacquaint myself, were dispatched pretty quickly.  The movements after a break always seemed to flow better - more natural - less halting choreography.  Even if the sequence itself was the same - you just seem to move better between the holds without all of the baggage of failure.

[Paul B]

maybe check to see if youve got the right sequence and foot placements sorted. I fell off the last move of a project for three days and finally decided to make sure I was trying it the best way, found another way and did it 2nd go.

[chappers]

im sure that he has  right sequence, see vid of him on it. poor lad just has to latch the last hold which his hand has been in several times :cry:
taking a break seems like a good idea.

i was hopeing to take a break from all the things i wanna do and i ended up not climbing for half a year. now ive gotta start training from scratch.

[Greg C]

Personally I'd go on a Planet Fear course.

User reviews

Reviewed by Jemma Powell on 05/11/2001: The program is really great. My fitness level is definately improving already. My shoulders feel stronger for longer on my circuit, and on the competition routes I climbed in Italy (where i got placed 7th).
So far the program appears to be working brilliantly and I would say its an awesome idea for climbers looking to improve their climbing skills, endurance, stamina, etc etc.

I am also feeling more confident in my climbing which is really good."

Hang on a minute doesn't she work for them.  :? I'm starting to think it might be a scam  

[Pantontino]

Take inspiration from grafters like Nodder. He thrashed himself close to the point of a complete collapse of his shoulder on Mr Fantatstic, but still couldn't quite get it. Took a summer break and came back this autumn and got it pretty quick (still had to put in a few sessions though).

I would go up and spend a session just trying to spot some sort of unexplored avenue (however small) in your sequence. Sometimes the smallest tweak can have a big impact.

[Dave Westlake]

Cheers Guys,

Taking a break sounds like a pretty good plan... im moving away next week so it looks like im not gonna have much choice anyway!!! :cry:

maybe ill come back and get it at christmas if its dry.

Like chappers said, i think ive got a good sequence, and the move i keep failing on is a dyno (im crap at dynos) that a friend of mine (who did the FA) can do "in his trainers with a rucsac on"  :shock:  

Thanks again

[chappers]

well....the boy done good. after what is apparently £150 of petrol he has ticked his first font 8a earlier today.

well done mate

[Blunk]

Well done indeed, I know the frustration all too well. Except my projects are quite a bit easier... :wink:

[a dense loner]

what prob is this? can't think of any 8a's with a dyno at the end :D

[Soxs]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

[Greg C]

"Ache Ball", I believe.

[a dense loner]

that's all i needed to know :wink:

[JR]

although the dyno on ache ball certainly aint the crux!!  I did it first or second (flash! ;-))go with cod arm straight out of surgery...

[Scouse D]

hero :wink:

[Greg C]

although the dyno on ache ball certainly aint the crux!! I did it first or second (flash! )go with cod arm straight out of surgery...

I found this image of you after your achievement  :wink:

[JR]

i'm racking them up...  more medals than boux 9a

[a dense loner]

his sponsor's (aka the u.s olympic committee) had to get him to wear the top, since they thought the sight of j.r just out of hospital would put kids off for life. they have since dropped him because he chooses hospitalization periods over resting periods.
remember kids, you could be killed crossing the road tomorrow

[JR]

just off to hospital now as it happens.... !

[a dense loner]

for god's sake remember to look both ways

[chappers]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

[Dave Westlake]

"It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr." - Soxs[/i]

>    

"although the dyno on ache ball certainly aint the crux!! " - JR

> So people say.  Out of interest, which move do you consider to be the crux JR?  

I always find dynos hard and i had real trouble getting my left hand to feel solid in the finger jam thingy (my thin fingers kept slipping down) Si young apparently finds this easy (but then he does have pretty fat fingers), and  Mr. Littlefair seemed to agree with me that the dyno is tricky.

On a good session i was repeatedly getting from the start to the dyno (via the supposed 'crux' moves).

I can also see that, in isolation, the dyno may not be too bad, but the context of the preceding moves makes it harder?

[JR]

i have a video of it being done on my puter and i stopped filming once pearson got to the dyno cos i figured it was all over cos we'd both done it no probs...  

i seem to remember him finding the crux getting on the the sidepully rib to then get into position to do the dyno...

i only had a brief go cos i was just out of hossy and the first move hurt.

[a dense loner]

and Mr. Littlefair seemed to agree with me that the dyno is tricky

have never seen it, don't know whether it's a long dyno, awkward one or what but the image of a midget saying the dyno is tricky is going to amuse me for the next few hours, no offence meant stu

[Soxs]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

Sorry Mr. Oxford English, I was rushing this morning. I'll try to improve. :cry:

[Stu Littlefair]

Effort Mr Hippy.  8a's all round! (except you dense).

The "dyno" (read big slap) at the end is easy on it's own but I never got the finger lock very well from the start, which made it harder. I got the the dyno from the start in my first session, but it took me a couple more to crack the nut, so to speak.

Ace problem this - should be on the hit list of everyone with a fast car and a lot of tape to protect their soft little fingertips.

[a dense loner]

i only have an old 205 that won't start now cos it's too bloody cold. good friction, shite car, damn

[chappers]

It's in Devon, guarded by locals and miss infomation. A shroud of miss dissends over the holds whenever someone approaches without the obligatory piece of corn hanging out the side of their mouth, and a kegg of home brew cider straped to there back. OOo arrrr.

Miss = Mist

There = Their

 

Sorry Mr. Oxford English, I was rushing this morning. I'll try to improve. :cry:

its ok nick, just dont do it again

[Soxs]

Have you denied any children the chance of an education so far this week? Just think, in a few years time this forum could be awash with crap spellers and it could all be your fault.

[chappers]

Most of the children I put in school, or rather don't put in school, the only thing they know what to do with a computer is steal it, certainly not use it so no danger of  UKB being over run by poorly educated Croydon scally wags.

[Soxs]

On the evidence of that last post chris, my spelling is less of a worry than your grammer. Just read that back and try again.


Beta = ;

[KH]

Does anyone hany any pictures / video / beta for Ache Ball?  Looking to get down there as soon as the tides are right.

[Stu Littlefair]

There's footage of Youngie repeating it for the cameras on Gone West, Caedmon's SW bouldering magnum opus. As far as beta goes, start as for my pocket-power-midget friend in the shot above, reach out with RH for nasty, nasty crimp (I superglue tape to my fingertips to avoid massive flesh rippage). Now bump LH up arete and shuffle heel up higher, bump LH again into obvious corner slot. Shufty feet around and jump to jug. Let out power-roar. Let go. Repeat.

The tide can vary the height of the problem a lot; at times you'll have to dig the start out, like in the photo. When I repeated it, the starting holds were at head height...