[csl]

Felt left knee go during dropped knee move...

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx.

Shit, bad news Duncan! Sorry to hear it and hope recovery goes well

[36chambers]

at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable.

is it ever anything else?

On the Almscliff miserability scale, this particular instance was miserable enough for me to pass comment, i.e. pretty bloody miserable. Character building, as my mum would say.

On the way up we even turned back once before deciding to at least "have a look". My girlfriend (who was previously psyched to climb that day) then spent the next 40 minutes curled up, in a ball, in her down jacket at the back of DWR, while I failed to warm up, before we finally called it a day. Just as the cliff was engulfed by somber rainclouds.

[AJM]

Felt left knee go during dropped knee move...

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx.

Shit, bad news Duncan! Sorry to hear it and hope recovery goes well

+1 - swift recovery...

[Coops_13]

STG: 7b/7b+ in Slovenia, heal fingers/wrist
MTG: Get on solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M: Indoors, not an awful lot of psyche...
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: Indoors, short session, felt pretty strong on the PE I was doing.
F: Nothing
S: Brean in morning, got Roof of Inequity 7a+ 1st RP, had a play on Chulilla, fair way off that. Didn't give it a burn due to being scared of hurting my fingers more on those poppy moves. Went to Cheddar and started working Insatiable 7b+.
S: Cheddar, Insatiable was wet Puntered on a couple of other climbs waiting for it to dry. Then crushed it! First 7b+ YYFY! Finished off getting flash-pumped but succeeding to flash a very poor 7a...

[nai]

vSTG - week long trip WC 20/3
STG - crushage during April & June peaks


M - AM - Fingerboard & AnCap
     PM - HI AeroCap
     Eve - core

T - AM - weighted pullups. AeroPow Foot on Campussing
     PM - LI AeroCap

w rest

Th - AM Boresome Walls -  AeroPow, decent workout, managed to get very, very pumped.
        Eve - threat of school closure meant doing the bouldering workout, hard work with tired arms and sore skin, likely a bit sub optimal

F - Snow didn't happen - schooled by Works system board - AnCap,  LI AeroCap + core.

S rest

S Fingerboard & pullups

Another 1kg lost this week, 2.5kg dropped in all now.

Spain now definitely off but still have the week to get away, currently musing whether to doss around the UK trying to pick up partners and bouldering it not, or heading out to Font to try and pick up partners and gatecrashing folks working stuff if not.

[cheque]

Sorry to hear that Duncan, I hope it's not too bad.

Due to moving cities my entire on this thread are going to be even more boring than usual for a bit... probably means my grit bouldering goal will fail too. 

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.
LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- Notts Depot. Tried White (traditionally the hardest circuit) problems- did two! I'd never done a white before so I'm psyched. Ironically this comes a day after new Orange problems had been set so I'm still yet to do a problem off the hardest circuit, but this is definite confirmation of improvement.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. New pink (comp circuit) problems. This set are, by all acounts, much harder than usual, which is all good with me. Managed up to 22 of 30, only slightly less than normal for the first session but defnitely had to try harder earlier.

F- Rest.

Sa- Moving. Lifted some boxes.

Su- Moving. Shifted my vinyl collection, which I'm sure is eliciting a grimace from anyone on here who's ever done it- my collection is in 4 figures. I use the "Bags for Life" method, which is definitely some sort of shoulder training  . Whether that's the type of training that's good antagonist work or the type of stuff that gives you injuries remains to be seen.

[fried]

Be careful with those knees folks.

M - Rest
T - Indoors, climbed like a sack of potatoes, tired, gave up.
W- Rest
Th - Indoors, new reset at old wall, tired again, not motivated, but had an O.K session
F - Nothing
Sa - Cooked currys all day.
Su - Lay on the sofa with a hangover.

NNFN - The prez has no room left in the bivouac for Easter. It'll just be a  couple of day trips for me.

[a dense loner]

T_B have you tried the rings for girls and small children? Aka trx, the bar grip may be better for your wrists? For more ring-like stuff try and get the bottom,where it straps to the handle, as low as possible, this will make the exercises harder. As in the further the handles are from the apex of the 2 slings the better.

Girls and small children who are gymnasts are excluded from the above!

[tomtom]

Sorry to hear about the knee Duncan

[T_B]

T_B have you tried the rings for girls and small children? Aka trx, the bar grip may be better for your wrists? For more ring-like stuff try and get the bottom,where it straps to the handle, as low as possible, this will make the exercises harder. As in the further the handles are from the apex of the 2 slings the better.

Girls and small children who are gymnasts are excluded from the above!

Our rings at home are quite fat, fatter than the ones at the Schoolroom. It doesn't hurt when I do stuff, so not sure it's the ring as such. I think it's just pushing exercises generally. It's getting worse unfortunately, though doesn't seem to mind straight down pulling on a F/board, so maybe I'll stick to that. Annoying as my finger is now totally sorted!

[Dolly]

M HIT and then Pilates
T My leg hurt too much to climb on the wave so went on the Furnace board. First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more. HIT later
W Kettlebell and dumbbell HIT. Tried spiderman press ups for the first time and couldn't complete a set of 10. Found them desperately hard.
T 10 routes top roped at gym
F Gym core
S Gym core hoping to save myself for climbing on Sunday
S Walk around Apparent North. Lots of snow, but too wet to climb


Feel like I've hardly climbed last week - will remedy that this week

[nai]

First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more.

Exactly how I felt on the Works board.  Only 5 degrees steeper than my home board but in a totally different league. Like trying to switch to lime from grit, completely different, completely spanked.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Rest, broken after Sunday.
Tue: Rest.
Wed: Rest. Getting ill (again )
Thu: Max hangs. Despite feeling rubbish managed an ok-ish session. Proceeded to feel more ill throughout the day.
Fri: Unwisely decided to try going to TCA as was feeling a bit better. Pootled on easy stuff, had coffee, went home.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Max hangs. Really pleased, feeling much better and managed to get a new pb - 16kg for 10s on 16mm edge, not dropping form (unlike previously).

Good end to the week; shame about being ill again, although relieved that recovery seems to have been fairly swift.

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Just got some on Saturday. Had a brief crack at some flys etc - was frankly humbling!

[shurt]

STG: do some cool stuff in Spain
MTG: 7b+
LTG: 8a

Totally forgot to make a note of what I was doing this last week but I have managed a fair bit of stuff even though not been feeling that motivated.
Did some Power Endurance stuff on fingerboard, tried some frenchies (I was shit at them), did some other more pure stamina stuff on fingerboard. All a bit scattergun to be honest. I think I'm bored and desperate to climb outside. Its been quite a while. Am off to Spain this Thursday and may get to the wall tomorrow so that should be good.


 

[Dolly]

First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more.

Exactly how I felt on the Works board.  Only 5 degrees steeper than my home board but in a totally different league. Like trying to switch to lime from grit, completely different, completely spanked.

I think its a) because its pure power - technique can (not necessarily does) have less effect and b) its steep, so your core is properly worked. I usually do at least one board  sess a week, 2 if I'm on my board. I still think its the best way to get bouldering strong

[nai]

technique

cheating on a board isn't it?

[rodma]

two in one

m: rest
t: weights
w: wall with campus
t: weights
f: rest
s: mrs rodma is looking after the wee one (ill) so i can get out. first day on rock since the early autumn, went to Bowden and flailed around a bit. did v-crimps for the first time since the roof jug was annihilated
completely overdid it on the mileage front and have a very tight and tired lower back from so much cave flailure
s: rest

m: rest
t: still resting, but have a good stretch
w: wall with campus, feel a lot better/stronger
t: rest:
f: rest
s: wall session, resonably strong
s: have a day at home with the wee one to let mrs rodma out on rock, to reciprocate for the previous weekend.

been a hectic couple of weeks work-wise and with the wee one teething and being generally ill. my shoulders have finally settled down and i now have no discomfort in either shoulder, but the pull on my left side is still a little hampered.

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbbells followed by deadhanging 7 different grips increased added weight to 16lbs 3 sets of 5 secs on each grip. Followed by the crusher version of repeaters 5 sec on 5 secs off X 5 did these on the big slots but with cardboard in them to make smaller 5 sets 3 mins rest between sets with16 lb added.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Same as mon.
Thu. Starting with cold so nothing
Fri. Cold better so same as mon and wed.
Sat cold back
Sun still feel shit.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - Max Hangs - 20mm incut, half crimp.
Progressive Set:
10sec (0kg), 10sec (2.5kg), 10sec (5kg)
Main Set (all 10kg added):
9sec, 9sec, 7sec, 7sec

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

W: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 10 Bent over flys (10kg)
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 20 min ARC trav warm-up

20' Board - Repeated 7A and 7A+, tried a new problem my mate put up, complete anti-style - Drop-knees and a sloping pinch, been awhile since I've not done anything on this board in a session.

45' Board - Repeated 6C+, tried project from last week. Did all the moves this time and linked to 2nd to last move, 2 big cut loose moves lots of power required! Keen to finish this off tomorrow...

T:  Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 15min ARC trav warm-up

20' Board - Managed to do my mates problem that I tried yesterday, felt the living end, complete anti-style on a flat wide wooden pinch...

45' Board - Repeated 6C+. Psyched to complete the project we had on there too that I was trying yesterday, 3rd session. 3 big moves, ~7A+

Tried some random moves, got some good ones to turn into full projects.

Felt good 2nd day on, I don't do 2 days in a row that often.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Tremeirchion - Did Flag of Iron (6C) in about 10 goes, took ages as I had a nightmare with an undercut at the start which was seeping like crazy and wouldn't dry, water was basicly running down it. Kept soaking my hand making the next move nails.

Tried "Lone Wolf RH" (7A/+), couldn't commit properly to the last move, a smeary rock over deadpoint high off the deck with no spotter. Split 2 tips, fell in the mud and split my trousers open... epic!

Would love to be able to one day do the 7C's there, they look amazing.

New problems on the Plas Power board:

[Nibile]

Nice board action!

[Luke Owens]

Nice board action!

Cheers Nibs, love the board! We've just put a load of screw ons on it this week... brutal!

Using the School Room Moon hold set too which are real nice to climb on.