[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. This week's average 83.1, up 0.4  Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: 40 minutes shoulder mobility & core
T: Too late at work to be able to do a family outing to the wall with M jnr. So ... Beastmaker. Am currently in PE phase, therefore: repeaters? Hard work, painful, low chance of feelings of success/fulfillment/achievement. Strength maintenance via max hangs? Hard work, enjoyable, higher chance of feelings of success etc.
 
Did max hangs. Matched previous bests on most things, enjoyed them.
W: Bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Light bouldering to warm up, 5 redpoint goes on hard circuits then 5 aerocap (?) laps on easier circuits. The latter probably not easy enough.
F: Bike one hour
S: Boulderwelt. An hour's bouldering with M jnr, fairly relaxed up to around onsight level, then half a dozen aerocap laps on circuits 6a to 6b.
   Bike to & from the wall about an hour
S: Snowboarding, Spitzingsee with M jnr.

[tomtom]

M > W work. Lovely conditions and could t get out.

Th: hoped to get out but too much to do in prep for an early start on Friday off to Tenerife for fieldwork. Went to the Depot at lunchtime for a quilt last fix before heading away. Managed to twist my knee (something went twang) on #19 of the comp circuit felt bad pressing up on the leg from low so went home.

Fr > Su Tenerife. After a couple of painful days knee has eased off thank god. Lots of snow up in the caldera but there won't be any climbing for a week... Took a portable fingerboard but nowhere to hang it in the hotel - so been doing some experimental therabanding

[tomtom]

M > W work. Lovely conditions and could t get out.

Th: hoped to get out but too much to do in prep for an early start on Friday off to Tenerife for fieldwork. Went to the Depot at lunchtime for a quilt last fix before heading away. Managed to twist my knee (something went twang) on #19 of the comp circuit felt bad pressing up on the leg from low so went home.

Fr > Su Tenerife. After a couple of painful days knee has eased off thank god. Lots of snow up in the caldera but there won't be any climbing for a week... Took a portable fingerboard but nowhere to hang it in the hotel - so been doing some experimental therabanding

[the_dom]

Mon: Lunchtime deadlifts - 3/3/3, PM Hangboard - max hangs
Tues: Trail run
Wed: Deadlifts over lunch (5/3/1) - very solid session. Hangboard in the afternoon - max hangs.
Thurs: Hangboard and core
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Hangboard - max hangs and one arms, deadlifts (5/3/1)
Sun: First day bouldering in 2 weeks. Mellow 90 mins indoors, but shoulder held up. Trail run in the evening.

Solid week.

[Footwork]

Been feeling like fighting a cold all week

Mon Wrecked from Scotland. Felt like I was surfacing from a warm bath all day. Bliss
Tues Sorted out my calves with some serious prodding. Some physio for shoulder
Weds Turned up to Physio after cycling in grim piss like snow at half 7 to be told it was actually on Friday.
Luckily other 8am didn't show and I took the slot. Coming to an end of his knowledge. Sadly shoulder is nowhere near fixed and after my final session in 6 weeks it will be a journey if self discovery and patience. I just wish I knew what the hell was going on 
Thurs Stretching
Fri Session at the Depot on the circuit board 6a-6c round and round. Shoulder physio after.
Sat Weather was complete rubbish
Sun Did nothing, physio

Sweets bought: zero

[shark]

Thanks Muenchener

11.3-4

M. Late PM. Cloudy cold and Keith Sharples kept texting me. Headed out to Remergence to join him. Met Keith C at car park At Remergence with Joble and Emma there too. Keith decided it was too cold and went home. Bouldered with Keith C and took a look at Backstreet Mime Artist - looks amazing. Got very close to holding left slot on Blind Date several times. As it was getting dark worked top off a ladder. Tall Tom showed as I was leaving.
T.
W. Blizzard on M62 but better at Malham though lots of run off - then blue skies and tops off. Led Cons then T'Red it 2x then 3x. Oak was drying and Nick persuaded me to get on it. Super apprehensive. Just tried it from throw upwards Moves went OK - bit glassy. 3 goes on it. 4th go bailed as got too cold. Led Cons to get draws back then T'red it x3
T. Eve Shoulder mobilty yoga shizzle
F.
S. eatswood. Unpromising day with snow etc. Nick C and Robin bailed on me. I was not with it - too much gin night before. Forgot food and drinks. At crag discovered I had only packed one shoe. Fortunately the left. Managed to cope by lacing my approach shoe tight. Worked on the Reverse. Weather got nice. A guy called Dave (from Lichfield ) showed. The worst thing about Dave was that he had small feet. He managed the Reverse. I didn't.
S.
 
Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet so going to eatswood again instead. With both shoes. Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

[Muenchener]

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Normally, yes.

[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger - going well - still definately injured, but starting to push it a little further each session.
Be able to climb in Siurana - 10th March - pretty confident I'll be ok, just have to make sure not to crimp.

MTG - June
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, and climb Privilege du Serpent

LTG - End of Year
8a

Mon

Easyish boulders as finger was feeling a tad tender. Managed a couple off v3-5 circuit.
10 on 10 off Aerocap for an hour

Wed

Did 8 V3-5 Circuit and a couple from the 4-6
Rings

Circuit of:
One legged tucked front lever
Tucked front lever pullups
offset pullups
pressups
ring i's
x2

Fri

Boulders
Tried a couple from the V5-7 circuit - did one in halves and off the last move of another. Repeated a few V4-6 and 3-5.
Aerocap - 5 on 5 off, higher intensity for an hour
Same ring circuit as Wednesday.


good week. Pushing the finger a little further with no real pain during the session, need to get back on the training program as only 12 weeks to Ceuse. Will have 2 sessions training this week and then 4 days in Siurana over the weekend.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8A? stand, and 8B/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8B+?ish), also Arkenstone project(8A?)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project,
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Work, then ended up  on way home. 
T - 
W - Feeling better, but still recovering
T - Started doing a MAW workout, but quit after warmup.  Still no energy
F -  Feeling much much better, went to small local boulder comp.  After mixup with scoring rules ended up sneaking into second-should've won it.
S -  Bouldered at other local wall, good session
S -  routes at wall.  good session

Not anything close to what I planned for the week, but getting sick and local comps meant it was never going to be the week I planned.   

[ashtond6]

M- rest/physio
T - broomgrove wall, did in 3 sections
W - rest
T - Broomgrove, now done in two overlapping sections. I'm sure that crux in isolation is 7A!
F - rest
S - ridiculously hungover, took a friend to yarn yarncliffe for his first ever route. Then minus ten was wet, then went to tegness quarry to try the new 7As but they were wet too!
S - indoor stamina training, got spanked. Did 2 laps of 6a, x2 laps 6a+, x2 laps 6b, almost x2 laps 6c , x2 laps 6b+, couldn't even do the moves on a 6c+, x2 labs 6b, failed 7a, failed 6a+! So 14 pitches? God I'm crap at indoor routes

2 weeks to Spain

[a dense loner]

Wait a minute you took a friend to yarncliffe for his first route then you took him to stoney? My god man is he still a friend?

[shark]

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Normally, yes.

Wasn't sure what the collective noun was.

[filz]

M - worked till late. Quick easy session: loaded carries, plank, hiit
T - board climbing with friends 2h. Tried some random problems and circuits.
W - morning workout: ring planks, dips, L-sits, tuck planche, tuck front lever pull ups. Super tired from board climbing
T - fb max hangs. Weighted pull ups, finishers
F - board climbing 1h
S - same as Thursday. fb max hangs, weighted pull ups, finishers
S - climbing on Nibs' board with friends. Good session despite being tired. Topped my first problem YYFY

[36chambers]

STG: training for Font
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Sports massage for my back. Indoors, felt pretty weak.
W: Spontaneous sunset session at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable. Having previously thought I had nailed the beta for exorcist, I've realised I can climb it in two halves but there's one foot movement linking said halves I've yet to figure out. Should have taken the rest day.   
T: Indoors. Easing back into the 30 and 50. Good session.
F:
S: Indoors at a new venue, unorchestrated. 
S: Called in at Shipley Glen as I was passing by. Luckily caught the good, late afternoon, conditions and somehow managed to drag myself up Red Baron Roof 7c+. Finally done something hard that's not at the cliff \o/

Been a tad slack on the training front these past two weeks due to the good weather. However, good conditions > training, all day everyday.

[ashtond6]

Wait a minute you took a friend to yarncliffe for his first route then you took him to stoney? My god man is he still a friend?

Hahaha! Yeah good point, we went to yarncliffe then he had to get a train...

On another note, I thought minus ten was always dry! I've been at least 5 times this year and it's been wet every time 

[TobyD]

at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable.

is it ever anything else?

[TobyD]

Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet

do you mean just the oak, or most of the crag?

[T_B]

84.8Kg

M -
T - School lunch. Mainly Pink circuit sections. Worked out a good sequence for coming back under the arête at the end. P.M. Rings, avoiding anything too wrist tweaky
W - Wrist worse that ever - no more rings  Foundry lunch - routes up to 6c+. Shouldn't have really.
T - P.M. Run Cutthroat Bridge - Back Tor return. 12Km / 275m. Amazing clear connies - best run yet.
F -
S - A.M. Run Limb Valley - Houndkirk return in mud and snow. 16.3Km / 300m. Ace. Only the second time I've ever run more than 10 miles - hanging on for the last few Km and bad ankle starting to pack in. P.M. F/Board repeaters. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 back 3 (first time I've managed this since pulley injury), 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on 15mm edge.
S -

Bl*ody wrist! Such a specific injury only set off by certain things (rings mainly). Anyway, going to have to be very careful early on this week, then rest for CWIF early morning session on Saturday. 3 weeks till Font so really need to get wrist sorted. Will try and fit a run in somewhere.

[shark]

Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet

do you mean just the oak, or most of the crag?

Most of the crag is affected by run off - see Rob Greenwood and Robert Fenton's photos from yesterday on the FB Conditions Lifts and Partners page

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - static  dumbbell complex x2. Strong! Cleans, snatch pulls.
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM max. Good! Rings, snatch pulls, overhead carry.
Thu - light weights, rings, overhead and shoulder carry 2'+1', hard. Climbing class.
Fri - hill sprints x8.
Sat - board climbing, tired. Too much recruitment before. Cleans, snatch pulls finisher. Rings. Heavy.
Sun - board climbing with friends, good vibes, good power, if a bit tired. Too much volume for sure. Mega fun though. Need some rest.

First week of new schedule, board and weights, and I went all in. Feeling good, but tired. Seems that focusing on speed and low reps is paying off. Feeling quite brutal.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 1. Ended with dynos. Campus, lever and light fingerboard after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. All bar 1 again and then made own problems. Some tough ones that I barely did after alot of working. Campus, leaver and light fingerboard.
F: Middle Cove. Have been wanting to find some potential hard-ish highball to work on. So have been perusing local sport/trad crags for something suitable. Think I've found it... Put up by Mike Law in 1988 as a top rope only route (now has 2 extra carrots), 7m high, slightly overhanging, all on small pockets and sidepulls, blind deadpoint crux at the top and gets 26 (7b+)...... Standard Mikl grading... Haha. Threw rope on it and worked out most of the moves but definitely didn't get them all. Linking them will be a fucking nightmare but definitley one to work on (and only 15min away), so will frequent quite abit before the pads come out for this one.... :D
Also finished the arvo with a couple of easy solos.
S: Work.
S: Black Cave. Quick warm up then jumped back onto The Plunge V9/10. Quickly did through to the dyno (last move), and then set about working that move. Alot of dabs (cave is maybe shoulder height) and its an all points double dyno backwards to the lip... Closest I came was a minor scrape-age dab but no luck. Finished off lapping a fun V6.


Highball project.....




The Plunge. Too low.

[Wood FT]

Mon -ill
Tue - ill
Wed - Awesome walls, 7 routes (6b+ - 7a) great session considering illness.
Thu - Works, circuit board, 5 goes round yellow 7b failing 3/4 on all but first go. few problems after but had no little power left. not sure if this was a good session or not.
Fri - more
Sat - none
Sun - climbing

enjoying the length of the AW routes and am chompin' at the bit for Spain, going to ramp up volume this week then relax week after. Very surprised at ability on Wednesday after crippling cold at start of week. Weight ok.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger & knee
MTG: tbc according to above
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Hip routine - squats, step-ups etc.
T - Westway: 7 x 3 routes to 6a+ with buddy-tape.
W - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
T - Westway: bouldering, warm up inc. V0/1 x10; V1/2 x10. Trying big holds, steeper stuff to go easy on the finger. Felt left knee go during dropped knee move, last problem of the evening. Hobbled home. Ice etc.
F - Minor injuries unit in hospital X followed by A&E in hospital Y. Consensus is most probably medial meniscus tear, ACL and MCL intact, (I have a previous PCL injury and laxity in that knee, probably contributing to the injury) could be worse I suppose. Orthopaedic appointment in a week (Yay for the NHS!).
S - Pull-ups and shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
S - Fingerboard, foot-on big slots and foot-off jugs. Crutch walking, been doing dips regularly for the last 6 months, shoulders feel really strong!

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx. First time bouldering for ~5 months. I was feeling quite pleased with myself too, finger holding up, making a conscious effort to be a bit more creative with my footwork too, clearly I should stick to ledge shuffling. I blame Ondra.

Plan: drown sorrows/comfort eat. Footless madness continue being patient and gradually Increase load on the finger. Start knee rehab. Get scan booked. Assess progress in a couple of weeks before making longer-term plans.

[Duma]

S - ...Nibs' board... Topped my first problem YYFY

 

[SA Chris]

M- boulder session. OK did a few things, then a couple of routes to finish off - confirmed what I suspects - no stamina.
T - worked at home
W - nothing
T - worked at home
F - boulder session. OK session.
S - short walk in arvo with kids. Baltic
S - short walk in morning with kids. Baltic. Then out for a walk in evening taking aurora pics - still baltic.