My point was that I didn't purposely try to reduce my BF%, it just happens naturally when I weight train. For me having more muscle seems to keep the BF% down.
Bad example as Woods and Nalle are hardly heavy for their frames.
Quote from: Dylan on November 25, 2010, 09:23:38 pmBad example as Woods and Nalle are hardly heavy for their frames. You wouldn't call them heavy, but they are far from Bennett-like waifishness innit?
I fail to see how someone who has climbed for 10 years at 12 stone will adapt to suit a 10 stone frame over a short period of time I can think of several example of this amongst friends whose grades have increased exponentially when they started to drop weight.
I've never been overly concerned with weight, but reading a comment of 5'10 and 62kgs has me wondering if my weight is a core reason (one of many perhaps) for my long plateau.5'10Average build72kgsStuck on 7a for a long time!
Skillz FD. Good post, strange image though.
Quote from: Barratt on November 25, 2010, 10:12:53 pmI've never been overly concerned with weight, but reading a comment of 5'10 and 62kgs has me wondering if my weight is a core reason (one of many perhaps) for my long plateau.5'10Average build72kgsStuck on 7a for a long time!For reference, i am the same height as you and weigh 68kg. Less if i am trying to redpoint a hard route.
Quote from: Dylan on November 25, 2010, 09:23:38 pmI fail to see how someone who has climbed for 10 years at 12 stone will adapt to suit a 10 stone frame over a short period of time I can think of several example of this amongst friends whose grades have increased exponentially when they started to drop weight.You're talking about a huge weight change - of course they're going to see a big grade increase, I never claimed that this would be lost in a short time period, you know as well as I do that after significant training followed by de-training strength levels don't revert to pre-training levels. I would expect their absolute strength level to decrease with time without the continuing stimulus of climbing with that extra 2 stone though.Lighter is generally better, particularly for sport climbers - boulderers are generally heavier, but if you're only dealing with a couple of extra Kgs of functional hypertrophy then the fingers will adapt because it's a continuous stimulus.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on November 25, 2010, 10:16:48 pmQuote from: Barratt on November 25, 2010, 10:12:53 pmI've never been overly concerned with weight, but reading a comment of 5'10 and 62kgs has me wondering if my weight is a core reason (one of many perhaps) for my long plateau.5'10Average build72kgsStuck on 7a for a long time!For reference, i am the same height as you and weigh 68kg. Less if i am trying to redpoint a hard route.I'm ~ 6"1 and 70kg and would love to know weight routines for how to put on muscle mass that would be useful for general strength. I often feel lanky and underpowered on short hard sequences! I.E. have to try really hard and run out of steam after a few hard back to back moves.Don't know if general strength training through weights/arm exercises is the answer though or just trying harder specific simulation problems on a board/roof!
I'm ~ 6"1 and 70kg and would love to know weight routines for how to put on muscle mass that would be useful for general strength.
If what you're saying is true then weighted deadhangs would be completely useless because as soon as you stopped doing it regularly, you'd lose the stimulus and start to decline.
Yes. I guess my point was that I'm still to be convinced that you don't end up with a net gain (but maybe I'm missing what you're saying).
2.There are a lot of strong fingered skinny guys/girls out there who'd benefit from being stronger in the body and who could easily adapt to carrying the little bit of extra weight.
t's fucking simple, if you don't use what you've just worked hard for you're either going to lose it, or forget how to use it.
Quote from: rodma on November 26, 2010, 01:56:35 pmt's fucking simple, if you don't use what you've just worked hard for you're either going to lose it, or forget how to use it.With fingers I haven't found that to be true which is where the original tangent began.