[Sasquatch]

Not when you look at it like this:

     Lunch                                                    PM
M: 45mins - Max hangs or Repeaters?           Feet-on fingerboarding/Aero-Cap
T: 30mins - Antagonistic and stretching         Climbing
W: 45mins - Max hangs or Repeaters?           
T: 30mins - Antagonistic and stretching         Climbing
F: 30 mins - Run                                          Feet-on fingerboarding/Aero-Cap
S: Rest or climb
S: Rest or climb

The weekends might be rest, if you aren't climbing hard.  Otherwise, none of the weekdays are rest. 

I think it can be done, and be successful. I was simply cautioning that this is a very full week of effort, and you need to be careful to make sure you are recovering enough. It's easy to undercompensate when you fill a week like this and not see the benefits you should from the amount of work you're doing.

[J_duds]

i wasn't sure what the ethan 20min thing was, so searched and found the below, has/ does anybody use this? what do you think of it?

http://www.ethanpringle.com/2008/05/05/one-week-older/

http://www.ethanpringle.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/img_6655.jpg

[Jim]

Is there not a pub near your work?

[the_dom]

i wasn't sure what the ethan 20min thing was, so searched and found the below, has/ does anybody use this? what do you think of it?

http://www.ethanpringle.com/2008/05/05/one-week-older/

http://www.ethanpringle.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/img_6655.jpg

I didn't use the hangboard the he suggested, and used a BM2K and a 2cm rung instead, and I found it a good, quick power endurance workout. It was pumpy as anything (bearing in mind that I'm a avowed "8 moves is too many"-type of boulderer), and I got real gains from doing it once or twice a week on the days between more pure power-type training (i.e. one arm hangs and weighted repeaters).

[Luke Owens]

So, I have a pair of rock rings (Thanks Ally!) and my works gym membership is on it's way.

My main aims for the winter are to get better endurance and getting a fair bit stronger would be handy! Need to work on moving more dynamically and get stuck into some steep bouldering to tackle my weaknesses. I have some plans for training this stuff.

As for the lunch time sessions, i'm going to dedicate 2 lunch times a week to either Max Hangs or some endurance based workout, the Ethan 20 minute thing looks savage so I'll give that a go on the rock rings. I've not used them yet, I imagine there's going to be a lot of twisting action going on, does this help or hinder?

Also, seems I'm going to be able to fit in quite a lot of sessions a week, is it beneficial to train both strength and endurance consistently along side each other? I've never been a big fan of phases and I imagine as long as the strength and endurance sessions are separate there wouldn't be a problem?

Cheers

[the_dom]

I've not used them yet, I imagine there's going to be a lot of twisting action going on, does this help or hinder?

Also, seems I'm going to be able to fit in quite a lot of sessions a week, is it beneficial to train both strength and endurance consistently along side each other? I've never been a big fan of phases and I imagine as long as the strength and endurance sessions are separate there wouldn't be a problem?

Cheers

Not as much twisting as you think. I never found that to be a huge issue.

If you're training consistently, I think you can definitely mix power and power endurance, but I've never tried to mix power and pure endurance.

[Luke Owens]

So I'm now a gym bunny once again (Only costs £10 a month!). It's going to be important to use the time I have wisely, I've got a feeling I'll start over training now I've got these lunch time sessions.

I've got 45 mins on Monday and Wednesday and 30 minutes on the other week days for lunch.

Monday: 45 min lunch: Max Hangs
PM: AeroCap

Tuesday:
30 min lunch: One Arm/Front Lever progressions
PM: Outdoor Bouldering/Indoor Routes - (Feet-On Fingerboarding if I can't get out)

Wednesday:
45 min lunch: Max Hangs
PM: AeroCap

Thursday:
Lunch: Antagonistic/Stretching/Core
PM: Outdoor Bouldering/Indoor Routes - (Feet-On Fingerboarding if I can't get out)

Friday:
30 min lunch: Ethan's 20min Endurance workout (Want to try this out)
PM: Rest

Saturday: Climbing/Rest

Sunday: Climbing/Rest

Sasquatch said above about being careful and not under resting but I think I'll be able to build up to the above, the Aerocap sessions aren't intense and are probably more "active recovery". I could also switch some workouts to a weekend evening if it would be better to do less on weekdays?

If anyone's got any tips/changes on the order, the exercises of the above that would be good.

Cheers

[krymson]

It's possible that you are genetically gifted enough to sustain that kind of capacity but having tried a phase like that myself  I would say for most folks that would be overtraining.

for instance you have max hangs on wednesday --but on tuesday night you're climbing or bouldering. So there's no way you're fresh enough to do your max hangs at the intensity they should be done at(at least not without injury!)

i feel like if you just put in a solid rest day on wednesday you could be fine.

In any case -- pay attention to your body -- how your fingers and pulleys feel, how your body feels, and adjust things accordingly instead of sticking to a regime no matter what your body is telling you.

[Luke Owens]

i feel like if you just put in a solid rest day on wednesday you could be fine.

Good advice but the only problem is I get a longer lunch on the Monday and Wednesday so would be good to utilise that time.

In any case -- pay attention to your body -- how your fingers and pulleys feel, how your body feels, and adjust things accordingly instead of sticking to a regime no matter what your body is telling you.

This will be the most important thing for me and as you say adjust accordingly, cheers!

I had a go on the Rock Rings for the first time today and did some pull-ups. I've only ever done Deadhangs/Weighted Hangs on the Beastmaker at home before and now I know how weak I am at pull-ups! Could account for my steepness weakness too... Weak shoulders possibly?

Also found that in 30 minutes I only started getting warmed up properly and got some recruitment by about the 15 minute mark then the workout was almost over! Anyone ever used that warm up putty or anything similar to warm up with?

[a dense loner]

you'll look ridiculous smearing warm-up putty on your shoulders

[Pebblespanker]

When short of time I try do the following as way of getting something out a long day when away from home (I'm an IT project manager so my days can be anywhere from 8hrs-12hrs or more depending on the projects and pressure and where in the UK I am) and no where near a wall etc

Warm Up - Deep Press Ups x30 varied hand widths
Theraband Stretches 5 mins
Pull Ups - see how many you can do in 10 mins - pull up bars that fit doorways are mega useful and fit in a suitcase

One tip - if they are part of your job try not to do phone conferences immediately after the above as heavy breathing can lead to embarassing questions/reputational issues ...

[krymson]

for the fingers you can do jazz hands(close hands tightly->open them as much as they will go) , or grip a tennis ball or use one of those grip trainer thingies

for the upper body, besides pullups you can do active stretching-- strategically swinging/moving your arms around basically. it at once functions as warming up and stretching so its doubly good as a warm up.
It also requires no equipment and can be done anywhere you dont mind lookin a bit goofy.