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Full Tilt vs Ecstacy vs Predator vs Austrian Oak (Read 18641 times)

BenF

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Urban myth.

Not according to the ex teacher when he told me about it, but maybe I'm just gullible.  Its a shame if he was making it up though, I loved the idea of him getting his class to downgrade GA just to annoy Pete.  I think I'll continue to believe it since its more fun that way.

holgerman

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Holger are you still even allowed on this forum  ;) As far as I know it is only Rob Mirfin who thinks it might warrant 8a+.  Hardly a consensus unless there are quite a few other people I don't know about who also think 8a+.

login still seems to work- maybe you can get me banned if you report .....  just for the record -  Rob seems to have settled for soft 8b in the end - Keith don't worry I am not really bothered about the grade - the constant rain in this supposedly dry country is much more of a worry at the moment  - I just reckon you should actually do a climb before you downgrade....

Doylo

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sounds fair enough 8b for everyone and 8a+ if your names Pete Chadwick

Andy F

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sounds fair enough 8b for everyone and 8a+ if your names Pete Chadwick


You can't grade things on peoples height. Unless it's Pete of course  :thumbsup:  ;)

TobyD

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I prefer sustained rather than cruxy and therefore long rather than short but beggars can't be choosers and more than anything I guess I want something that I can be reasonably confident about with regard to conditions
By the way I haven't climbed 8b before so this whole thing may be more optimistic than realistic but I'm keen for a bash  :boxing:
Cheers!

Predator is fairly long for a UK route, but not a stamina route really. I'd say it was more of a series of power endurance sprints between rests of varying quality. It is certainly in condition the most often of these four.

Some other suggestions:

Well Dunne Finish? Zoolook to a great rest, followed by V7 (??) ish through a bulge and a bit of 7b (ish??) on top

Huecool? Dry much more often than you might think, not mega hard moves, excellent position (easier than Predator?)

petejh

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Seagulls is 8b+, same as W Mussel.  Youthanasia also is likely to get 8b+ as Pete gave Wild Youth 8b+ and there's no real difference. 
So that leaves, Stiff upper Lip, Melanchollie, The Brute, Temple of Gloom, The Hole Truth, The Mink Angel, Carinthean Groove and 3 at Dinbren.

Ahh.. how could I forget The Mink.
Next.

Anyway Keith I thought you'd become a hardcore drytooler - the lip project at White Goods needs doing - your first M12?

ksjs

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Keith don't worry I am not really bothered about the grade - the constant rain in this supposedly dry country is much more of a worry at the moment  - I just reckon you should actually do a climb before you downgrade....
Hi Holger, Hope rain stops soon for you, not too dry / warm either here right now! Agree totally on grading, was just joking on the pride comment.

ksjs

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Well Dunne Finish? Zoolook to a great rest, followed by V7 (??) ish through a bulge and a bit of 7b (ish??) on top
Huecool? Dry much more often than you might think, not mega hard moves, excellent position (easier than Predator?)
Good suggestions and will definitely have a look when I'm up there. On a related note I so want to do Supercool, ever since I saw a photo of this (think it was a Climb or Climber cover shot a few years ago) I've been itching to have a go. May have to try this before Huecool or maybe I'll just do both...

ksjs

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Anyway Keith I thought you'd become a hardcore drytooler - the lip project at White Goods needs doing - your first M12?
Think my best drytooling days are behind me :ninja:

TobyD

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On a related note I so want to do Supercool, ever since I saw a photo of this (think it was a Climb or Climber cover shot a few years ago)

Hands down the best sport route in the country. Except possibly Rainshadow, but that will require some more training for me at least...

north_country_boy

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On a related note I so want to do Supercool, ever since I saw a photo of this (think it was a Climb or Climber cover shot a few years ago)

Hands down the best sport route in the country. Except possibly Rainshadow, but that will require some more training for me at least...

I'd agree. Huecool however, feels a little disjointed in comparison, certainly poorer rock quality.

Teaboy

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I've no direct experience of any of these routes so probably ought to shut up but I'm avoiding work and have given similar issues a great deal of thought. My view is that if you are travelling a long distance you want to limit the number of visits required in which case its important to get a route that you can train for elsewhere. It being winter this means indoors. I'd have thought it'd be easier to train for a 12 meter steepish route on goodish holds than for a 25 meter techy, sidepully thing; this points to the Oak (given that you won't be able to get on Full Tilt until April probably). There is probably a fair bit of knowledge on training for the Oak indoors available, I'm sure I heard of someone doing just that...........

If I presumed wrongly and you really want to spend every weekend driving to Yorkshire then I guess Predator is the one you can work away at and see biggest gains by spending time on the route.

Adam Lincoln

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There is probably a fair bit of knowledge on training for the Oak indoors available, I'm sure I heard of someone doing just that...........

Who would do that?  ;) <ducks>

TobyD

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On a related note I so want to do Supercool, ever since I saw a photo of this (think it was a Climb or Climber cover shot a few years ago)

Hands down the best sport route in the country. Except possibly Rainshadow, but that will require some more training for me at least...

I'd agree. Huecool however, feels a little disjointed in comparison, certainly poorer rock quality.

Agree with that! It is a fantastic route, in my opinion, but next to Supercool, it looks almost a bit shit.

 

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