UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => two wheel spiel => Topic started by: Norton Sharley on October 15, 2008, 12:14:50 pm
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A thread to ask ukb's own bike tester how to fix the fiddly bits of metal and plastic on your mtb.
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Dear Fatdoc,
I don't know how long the chainrings on my bike should last. I go out in all weathers but always clean my bike when I get home from the pub. but they seem to be lasting forever. When should I change them and how do I do it?
Thanks,
Norton S
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Dear Fatdoc,
Why do you "need" a full XT kit, as me and lots of other people manage to actually change gear using only lowly Deore kit?
Thanks,
Blubbs :)
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well,
here we are!
for the first time in my MTB career I have worn out the jockey wheels on my XT shadow mech.. the reason for this being my first time is by now i would usually have totalled at least a couple of mechs over a summer.. so I'm chuffed!
Obviously my riding hasnt got any better, as evidenced by the repeated bills for other components recently... so I'm voting the Shadow mech system as product of the year. having said that when i do bust it i've been told they are a twat to index..
norton.... when you feel they become soo rough and razor like that they'd be better used as a weapon to curtail satire than try to propell a bicycle... oh.. get some that arnt made of cheese in the first place - that helps
bubbs,
it's shiny, nuff said
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In this the thread to enquire about fatdoc's technical skills on how to ride a bicycle or how to fix it having fallen off it??
Technical Skills: "Its the bikes fault - it threw me off, this new magura fork - its ass then for some odd reason it throws from my Marin"
Fixing Skills: "My iPhone is permantently connected to the wiggle website to purchase new shiney compoents or I'm off to 18 bikes"
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God, I hate you all
:wall:
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:hug:
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The latest report on fatdoc's technical skills at the Dalby Forest Trail Centre: Fatdoc managed to stay on top of his bike for 6 hours & didn't fall off!!!! or has he got the set up on his Magura correct??? :-\
It was a very long day felt more like a road bike session that mountain biking
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My friend got a split tire this weekend at Kiroughtree, no spare, so fixed it by putting two holes above it and putting two cable ties through the holes round the tire rim to keep the split together. He made it round the next 20km on it, which impressed me.
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The latest report on fatdoc's technical skills at the Dalby Forest Trail Centre: Fatdoc managed to stay on top of his bike for 6 hours & didn't fall off!!!! or has he got the set up on his Magura correct??? :-\
Lucky he didn't wash out the front end due to having a certain brand of front tyre on :lol:
Congrats Jon, Dalby any good?
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My friend got a split tire this weekend at Kiroughtree, no spare, so fixed it by putting two holes above it and putting two cable ties through the holes round the tire rim to keep the split together. He made it round the next 20km on it, which impressed me.
I can't picture this - how does this work? I split a tube at Penmachno on Sat so would be good to know such a fix.
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The latest report on fatdoc's technical skills at the Dalby Forest Trail Centre: Fatdoc managed to stay on top of his bike for 6 hours & didn't fall off!!!! or has he got the set up on his Magura correct??? :-\
Lucky he didn't wash out the front end due to having a certain brand of front tyre on :lol:
Congrats Jon, Dalby any good?
yeah, back in big love with kenda tyres have to say....
here's copy of report of day out i sent to some mates yesterday
"if you get to ride Dalby then I reckon you'll have a good time. I'm in no way a trail centre expert but it was a good day out. I can see why it's used as a demo centre, you get to cover a lot of ground with some interest without really getting into too much bother.
Random thoughts are:
- The trail climbs are fine, bit weird cos they are man made so judging how long they go for is nigh on impossible, the locals have this down to a tee.. I spent about 25% of the time with my saddle down when I wanted it up and vice versa. Being a saddle down on the downs sort of a rider I got a bit pissed off about this. If any ride makes you consider a auto adjust saddle height post this will be it. Most people were on hardtails, probably the best bike I'd say. There ar a few jumps that I'd prefer a full susser on - personal preference I'm sure.
- The red is only hard in terms of length. I'm sure this is what is intended - you cant make a trail and then see swathes of MTBers coming a cropper on it. the bike park is a waste of time, not worth the 350 tons of stone they needed to shift it. Having said that the whole red is a big, fun day out. it drains well, is out of the wind and it's very well waymarked. the best bit is the last 7 miles of so. I dont believe the distances quoted, the whole red and with the black you can also slot in felt about 45km!!
it was busy at the start and at the freeride park, the second half of the red not so, I get the impression many dont do all the red in a session.
The amount of work in making this place is astonishing, it's worth going to. Dave who is new to the world of MTB having crossed from the dark side summed it up as * damn good for fitness, a different day out, technically easy. Good for once in a while, but it's not the real deal*
next time i'm going to do the easiest way up to the start of the last third, and do reps on it...
Have a good time!"
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My friend got a split tire this weekend at Kiroughtree, no spare, so fixed it by putting two holes above it and putting two cable ties through the holes round the tire rim to keep the split together. He made it round the next 20km on it, which impressed me.
I can't picture this - how does this work? I split a tube at Penmachno on Sat so would be good to know such a fix.
Split in the bead of the tire, not the inner tube. Two holes made above the split. So the order goes tire edge, split, two holes, tread. Cable ties put through the holes, round the edge of the tire and tied, so they keep the split together and stop the inner tube coming through it. One of the guys might have got a picture, if I get it I'll try to put it up.
They also stuck a puncture patch on the inside of the split to help keep it together. Some guys back at the wigwams said a crisp packet wrapped around the inner tube works well to stop it coming through the tire split.
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.. section of soft plastic toothpaste tube, tube of superglue..... never leaves my pack for this very eventuality
for internal patch type bodge
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Favourite wet / winter tyres for non-DH applications...?
The old Conti Gravitys on my just dusted off Whyte are looking a little bit threadbare, and I need something for the coming months.
Something not really really heavy, but tough enough to put up with my bulk and some bad line choices.
Anyone? Anyone?
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Right,
you have 3 choices in my mind, Norton will say one
- high rollers 2.35 either wire or folding bead. dual ply of course... this is Nortons fav... and indeed it is a sound tyre.
- kenda nevangels 2.35 are my fav TBH it was what came with the marin - and i've been real surprised by them, they are v similar to high rollers. dual ply wire bead, probs a tad lighter than the high roller but seem to have bit more tarmac drag
both these two are scaled down DH tyres, hence the supieror stability they have?? hell i dont know but they work really well in the peak!!
next is the conti vertical, either pro with kevlar of just wire bead... very good tyre and IMO and many others a far better gripping more stable tyre than the gravity. the vertical is the lighter of the 3.
word.
there is no other tyre to consider, trust me.
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Got to agree with fatdoc's summary above - and I am a MTB amateur. The work they have done to build it is astonishing. However it all feels a bit fake. The downhill sections are short & just when you think the trail is going to go a bit further it either bends or heads up hill to slow you down - so basically you can't go that fast. Considering the trails are flat and relatively smooth it feels a bit lame, and I struggle to keep up on the Wednesday night rides, so I don't think I am particularly quick usually compared to Fatdoc & Norton.
Some sections like you see on YouTube were too busy - it felt like a road riding group session at times with wheel sucking going on, which really pisses me off. However its a good day out and if you want to ride your bike, get some good fitness work in, not worry about cars or ending up on a footpath then go. Take food for the trip round if you intend to do the red loop as I was in serious need of food at the end.
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High Rollers 2.35 wire bead if you can spare the extra weight and get them to fit on your rims. A bit pressure sensitive but they are the dogs. Not tried Kenda's due to latter point. Some people find them a bit disconcerting - since they only have a central tread and huge side knobbles you have to chuck them on their side a bit to work. But man do they stick, especially the soft compound. It is not possible to have more road drag than you get from these although I do run low tyre pressures (30 psi).
Schwalbe Fat Albert (2.35) also very good, very progressive sliding but expensive.
Never actually ridden Kenda's in anger so can't comment.
Anything made by Conti are a death trap imho unless you like to spend all your time with both wheels going sideways. Utter shite. And easy to puncture due to light weight.
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good stuff.
just bought a pair of intense spikes for the big bike which i am about to rescue from captivity...
these maxxis jobs sound great for the other one.
bubba - the freeborn people have got the banshee morphine frames on sale for about £420. only 16'' though.
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This is an interesting link.
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/paralysed-cyclist-sues-suspension-fork-maker-19025] [url]http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/paralysed-cyclist-sues-suspension-fork-maker-19025 (http://[url)[/url]
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Dear Fatdoc
Which reasonably priced hydrolic disks for a xc / general faffing about bike? Alternatively, are all hydro levers compatable with all calipers or is it model or manufacturer specific. Its all a bit much for me to be honest, ive got "formula" and the levers are fooooked!
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There are two words just into your question that rule out Fatdoc being able to help - reasonably priced.
Shimano Deore or Avid Juicy 3 are great and cheap with XT or Juicy 5's next on the list, or Hope's etc etc.
You could always just buy a new lever kit if these are available for Formula.
Swapping levers (and master cylinder assembly) with different calipers is not recommended since each manufacturer will have designed their calipers to respond correctly to their lever/master cylinder assembly and each of the latter has a sligthly different volume of oil shifted to lever movement ratio. In other words it might not work right. But then for £15 for a Shimano lever I'd be tempted to try it and see if they work. If we don't hear from you we will assume it's all gone horribly wrong :'(
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avid juicy 3s.... coz though a mare to bleed are very powerful and need much less bleeding than hayes or hope stuff...
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i don't suppose anyone either owns or has access to a hope spot facing tool...?
£62 is a bit much for something that won't be much use in future when everyone is using post-mount brakes....
there's a bottle of wine in it, and not tramp shit.
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Soz yoss :'(
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Can ask about, but it's a long shot. How soon do you need it?
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Sorry, unless the bottle of wine is worth more than £62 in which case yes. ;D
Presumably your brakes are squeeling or something with all those big southern descents you'll be doing? Why bother spot facing your brake mounts, you should be able to get a good enough setup using thin washers different thickness top to bottom mount if necessary or just steal some spherical washers from an Avid set of brakes, job done. :shrug:
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nope. the mounts seem to be mounted pretty far in towards the wheel, so when you use the supplied washer the post mount adaptor hits the disc. with the 0.25mm washer it misses, but i've now mounted them without a washer at all.
i figured that if i faced them back another mm then there would be more room.
chris - don't worry about it. if it's a real problem then i'll buy one.
taking the machine to chicksands on sunday, so if you don't hear back on monday i'm probably in hospital.
actually, will try to pop a pic up later on. it's a fine machine.
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Let us know what state the Chickshore is in please - I fancy another play sometime :)
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i'll try to get some pics. if it's good then i'll be heading back asap.
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Having headbudded the floor at Dalby yesterday on the flattest section of the ride I need a new helmet. Probably should get one of those MTB ones with a peak as Fatdoc keeps telling me. Any suggestions - I was thinking of a giro xen, but having bought a spesh helmet for the road was wandering if they made a MTB specific one. My old helmet after closer inspection at home has a crack in it - so did its job.
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Is the cracked one a Giro? I think they have some replacement system if you manage to bust one.
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You know you need a Xen, £90 new, buy a replacement from Giro for £35 when you crash in it. I've had two new ones without question. Sorted.
I would be scared to crash in that roadie helmet you were wearing yesterday!
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The crashed one was a Giro - old road helmet which I never really liked- hence the Spesh one. Not sure if I've got the receipt etc for it - and I expect its like for like model replacement. I had a quick gander on CRC and the xen was a bit cheaper than £90 - its my birthday next week so you know present to self.
So what's fatdoc going to get for his birthday - which is a couple of weeks away. ???
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You don't need a receipt to replace a Giro, just send the helmet back with a cheque for £35 and you can get yourself a new Xen instead! The price you pay for the replacement helmet is relative to the their rrp so a lesser lid will be less than the £35 but really you want a Xen, don't you? :shrug:
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The crashed one was a Giro - old road helmet which I never really liked- hence the Spesh one. Not sure if I've got the receipt etc for it - and I expect its like for like model replacement. I had a quick gander on CRC and the xen was a bit cheaper than £90 - its my birthday next week so you know present to self.
So what's fatdoc going to get for his birthday - which is a couple of weeks away. ???
dunno....
some new legs would be good
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well, by trail (sp) and error and damn stubborness I have to say....
my Thor fork finally seems to be working how I want!!!!
So...
that's scuppered the *forks for 40* pressie...
reckon I'll just buy a good malt and get angry drunk at being an old git 8)
BTW, the giro helmets are good, I have the cheaper one... and i rate it... the one norton has is worth the cash... coz of the replacement system..
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Found the giro replacement programme - it seems to work on a like for like replacement and as I didn't like my atmos I'm not paying for another one. So I'll have to pay the proper price for the Xen & hope I like it more than the atmos I used to use on the road.
http://www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk/giro/ (http://www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk/giro/)
I can't believe FD doesn't have some obscene bike pr0n plan for his big 40 - I mean, and the fact he doesn't want a party - must be in denial or something!!! or is he really turning into an old git???
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Random Cannondale headshok question i'm afraid - apologies as I know not many may have experience of these strange beasts:
I recently (september) got an '08 Cannondale F2 off an insurance coupon from Evans having had my old bike totalled by some twat in leeds on my birthday (long story won't go into that here :boohoo:).
Pretty much only been riding this on the road, commuting to work with a bit of local bridleway riding with the missus and occasional forays down the canal to work for a change - nothing "extreme".
So anyway, when delivered the air valve was bust and I had to get Evans to fix it under warranty, which they did in about a week! now only a handful of weeks into ownership something has gone horribly wrong. First up a swishing sound started up on compression. I took it in to Woodrup's in Leeds (DO NOT TRUST - not only on the basis of this experience) who said nothing abnormal about the sound "just the oil damping"
now it seems to be going wrong, with no apparent damping at all in the 1st part of the travel stroke, and even with the lock-out engaged it "clunks".
Sooo my questions are
1. anyone had experience with these buggers (the forks not the bike shops), problems or no?
2. can any cannondale dealer service these (Chevin Cycles just down the hill) or do I have to take it all the way to Cas-vegas and wait a week for the bell-ends at Evans to send it off to Kendal again?
I'd rather go to Chevin for reasons of trust, local loyalty and convenience.
cheers in advance
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you need bike magic forum asap dude. Also, search for " crack & fail" I'm forums. As far as know most servicing can b done by yourself.
I'd sell it on myself!!
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surely it'll still be under warranty.
rode it into work again today and it's got a LOT worse - horrendous clank noise topping out on every bump and no lock-out at all. I'll be taking it in to Evans and getting arsey with their spotty sales peeps. :furious:
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I should say I have a low opinion of Cannondale's in general before I start, based on the fact that they produce ridiculous designs like headshox and lefties - too much strong Yank skunk in the design department I reckon. Plus getting them serviced is a nightmare due to lack of dealers.
The squishing noise is probably nothing to worry about that will be the damping oil getting 'squished' through the shims. Clunking should be worried about and normally suggests a bust damper rod or similar.
Take it back and buy another bike or get it serviced I'm afraid. Other than that do as the 'Doc says and try bikemagic for suggestions. Cannondale stuff is usually self maintainable, but only if you have the special tools they need so check any manuals you find online carefully to make sure whether you need anything special before dismantling it!
imho Cannondale have no clue with regard to damping so having it top or bottom out on the road would not surprise me. I once rode a Prophet with a Leftie - it felt like trying to pedal a pogo stick :'(
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arseburgers!
Public service announcement - THIS IS A RANT!
well thank you for the info anyway. The main thing that attracted me to the C'dale was it's sale price (immediately refused by EVANS because i was purchasing with a voucher, not cash - wankers!) and the very convenietn (for me) fork lock out atop the stem/simplicity in design (or so i thought) of the headshock system. Plus i figured that the design has been around soooo long (I haven't done much proper MTBing for years but grew up in the Brecon Beacons so had a mis-spent youth in them hills from about 15 years ago, and i remember them being around then - who was that dreadlocked dude that used to ride pro for them?)
I am fairly handy when it comes to fixing bike stuff (used to be a hire shop tech) but have no clue when it comes to suspension (this is the first bike with any boingy bits - last one had a pair of Pace RC31 carbon "fake suspension" forks that sheared off at the crown/steerer interface on impact with a car). It narks me a bit that i can't even get under the hood to see what's going wrong - they didn't used to top out noisily all the time, and like i think i said before there appears to be no compression damping in the first 1/2 of the stroke now.
The rebound adjustment nob also turns a lot more than it used to which worries me slightly, and i have a feeling the EVANS basically botched up the repair/replacement/whatever originally.
none of this changes the fact that i'll be heading to cas-vegas this weekend to get shirty with EVANS (this pisses me off no end, because i'm almost certain it means i'll be without a bike for a while again, plus the weather looks mint tomorrow and i'm none too keen on missing time on't grit).
Where do you think i stand in terms of demanding a replacement bike rather than another potentially shoddy repair?
surely nothing wrong with strong skunk in the design dept - just look at Jonny Ives at Apple Inc. ;)
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took it to friendly man at chevin cycles and all is now well. apparently the valve system had come loose and all the oil drained out the bottom into the inside of the fork housing. quite possibly caused by EVANS' meddling but can't be sure.
all's well that ends well :thumbsup:
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There's a rumour that its FD's birthday. Happy Birthday - I won't tell you how old he is though as I value my life.
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There's a rumour that its FD's birthday. Happy Birthday - I won't tell you how old he is though as I value my life.
up to 10,000 m of singletrack descent in spain in 6 weeks dude... wise... very wise...
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Well the doc & I have been discussing gear, or rather fatdoc has been telling me what I need, for this little sortie to Singletrack in Spain - and the list is pretty extensive - luckily I own most of it.
Anyway - tonight I text the doc and ask - do you want anything from Ground effect, surprisingly he doesn't want anything - I'm shocked. Few mins later texts again - I'm getting a Marin Team Top to match the mistress!!!! - and I thought I was the gay roadie!!!
I'm well looking forward to this Feb trip - riding the bike without getting dressed to go in a freezer!!!
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Jon, re your forks and various size post mountings, have you seen this http://www.singletrackworld.co.uk/forum/read.php?f=2&i=3838157&t=3838157 (http://www.singletrackworld.co.uk/forum/read.php?f=2&i=3838157&t=3838157)
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cool.
Hope being Hope said "what... really?? that's odd.... *rumage* right mate, it's in the post" one perfectly milled step up caliper later and my 185 brake now fits my fox fork perfectly ;D
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Man, I love Hope. 8)
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what forks are you talking about FD?
i am thinking about 150 qr15 talas32s on my whyte replacement... they aren't cheap though.
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150 fox 32 RLCs
Are without doubt the best fork I have ever ridden and are worth it.
Word
Would be awesome on a 46 for sure.
Do it
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150 fox 32 RLCs
Are without doubt the best fork I have ever ridden and are worth it.
OMG fatdoc is happy with his fork - how long is this going to last then?? 2 weeks me thinks..tops, but I hope 8 so I'll then be able to get through the switchbacks holiday in Spain before he starts moaning about it!!
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OMG a fork that price he should be happy! Very sexy fork though.
There's more than enough adjustment in that beast to keep anyone happy fiddling until the 2010 model is released :)
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OMG a fork that price he should be happy! Very sexy fork though.
There's more than enough adjustment in that beast to keep anyone happy fiddling until the 2010 model is released :)
quite frankly I'm stunned by it, only had as good *patter patter* over rocks and *BOFF* "shit were did that drop come from?" kind of plush yet stable feel from my 888s before... I'll be happy with this one for a good long while I can tell you.
Looking at a bar upgrade at the Mo... ;)
Project bike bling then completed... ;D
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Project bike bling then completed... ;D
yeah right!
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Project bike bling then completed... ;D
so are you going to list the spec?
(of course you are...)
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indeed........
I'll get some pics up once the mistress's desires are fulfilled ( that's the name of my bike)
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There's more than enough adjustment in that beast to keep anyone happy fiddling until the 2010 model is released :)
Quote from last night's ride by FD - "I have lots of knobs on my bike"
Of course I couldn't resist but point out the obvious ;D
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Thanks for that...
You are by your own confession simply well jealous, once you gain a year or 2 the excuse will be yours !!
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As norton's bike seems to be falling apart / creaking alot - you could donate all the mistress's old parts to Norton. I'm sure you could build a whole bike from her cast offs as long as you had a frame to put them on.
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If you live to see 40 ( well, live through the spainish trip and beyond) then I am sure you'll spend a shed more than I have in the last few weeks!!!
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If you live to see 40 ( well, live through the spainish trip and beyond) then I am sure you'll spend a shed more than I have in the last few weeks!!!
Hate to admit it - but that is probably true. Probably not on mountain bikes as I can't ride them particularly well but road bikes - I know what I want.
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Another ride, another failed component :o
Saddle.... top foamy bit all poking out and outer bit all peeled off.. rather a rapid demise... not happy... & I must get round to getting some new jockey wheels..
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Mate, you may be surprised, we are not ::)
And what have saddles got to do with jockey wheels?
Go buy yourself a SDG Bel Air. I suggest the standard one but you'll be needing the carbon I beam option which means you can buy a new seat post too. ;)
P.S. There were a collection of 10 crossers up on Houndkirk this afternoon trashing the place. And one girl on a scooter ! I suitably berated them and then fucked off before I got my head kicked in. Were there any rozzers or Peak Park Ranger mentalists up there to keep the chavs in check? Was there buggery.
And why do the fuckers in there Range Rovers drive ROUND the big puddles thereby causing even more damage. You're supposed to be off roading you tossers, at least drive through the bloody puddles. :wall: :wank:
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No go on the carbon bel air, I'm in love with wtb pure v to railed saddles! Usually last me ages. Besides my maverick adjust seat post won't take the carbon bel air!
I'm so with you on the off roader thing.
Cunts.
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Good rant Norton.
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well, after debating replacing the whyte 46 with a cove hustler, i decided to stick with the former, and have just ordered some nice 09 talas 36 rlc forks for it. mmm...
and i picked up an alpine link too.
i am a bit pissed off that i bought a new set of hope m4 brakes for the stiffee only a few weeks ago to discover that they've just updated them all. but there are kids dying in zimbabwe so i shouldn't really complain about some slightly out-of-date brakes.
though i suppose if they were all standing at the bottom of a hill and i came flying down only to discover my hydraulic fluid was a bit off and ended up ploughing into them then the kids and i would probably agree that having nice new brakes is a good thing.
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those brakes are tried and tested and are service friendly. I run them..
That fork will be the dogs
Have to say that 46 is now one awesome beast!!
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i'm looking forward to the transformation...
for a long time i loved those forks. i rode it down the side of a massive volcano in chile, down treking trails that no-one had ridden a bike down, over all sorts of stuff, and it seemed amazing. and laden with a load of gear down a hugely rocky trail off the top of a pass in ladakh. but it was only when i read about the duc32s and the braking deflection that i really noticed it. mbr didn't seem to mind too much - they just suggested sitting back and using the rear brake a bit more. but on corkscrew type tight bends the whole thing just started feeling a bit vague. and the stiffee with 36s was so pinned.
so a good decision i hope...
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My word Yoss, are you trying to challenge the 'Doc for the most expensive bike on ukb?
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i wasn't, but i am certainly up for the challenge!
on that basis, i need to replace my cheap'n'cheerful xt with a decent selection of xtr or x0.
perhaps some fsa carbon cranks, with an srm power meter of course.
dt carbon rear shock? or dhx air? hmmm....
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christ...
well... I'll have the XT off you ;)
you surly arnt serious about the carbon shock are you? :shrug:
stick with Fox if i was you... Rp23 is the best shock i've ever had..
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My word Yoss, are you trying to challenge the 'Doc for the most expensive bike on ukb?
There are peeps on here that may well blow my purchases out of the water in budgetry terms in the near future..... at least my frame is mass produced... and thus not £ 1.8k + "*cough*, go on... get a Blur LT...you know who you are!!" or at least a DW link Turner... (which I have to say really does look like it's the best AM frame ever)
BTW, the trails were shite this morning, I was ill, it was well slippy and Fatkid ascended like a whippet on steroids all morning.... he's getting used to a MTB... once he learns how to descend I'm screwed!
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i was kind of joking. although i am a big fan of x9, after it took wait for it, about 8 seconds to set the indexing.
the rp23 is fine. it could prob do with servicing. anyway, it has nice custom whyte bearing things.
that cove hustler frame did look lovely though... ah well.
what i have been looking for is a really nice retro mtb. i saw a fat chance titanium job on ebay the other day, but it was quite pricey. and i really want an early full bounce. maybe gt or cannondale. something that'll look good with a skinsuit and a green mohawk.
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Fatdoc, I seem to recall you recommending a sort of soft protection / body armour type biking top a while back, but can't find it now. Where did you post the recommendation?
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Anyone got any advice for Avid Juicy 3 brake maintenance?
the front brake has gone all "squishy" and the lever needs pulling almost all the way to the bar to engage, whereas the back one is still nice and firm - does this mean the system needs to be bled? If so, do i NEED the Avid syringe kit etc? I used to sort out my old Hope's with just a bit of silicone tube from work, ho hum
happy new year by the way
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Fatdoc, I seem to recall you recommending a sort of soft protection / body armour type biking top a while back, but can't find it now. Where did you post the recommendation?
reasonably balanced forum discussion, reviews and links to manufactures site here:
/www.ridemonkey.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-192137.html
BTW, it's hot to wear on the ups....
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Anyone got any advice for Avid Juicy 3 brake maintenance?
the front brake has gone all "squishy" and the lever needs pulling almost all the way to the bar to engage, whereas the back one is still nice and firm - does this mean the system needs to be bled? If so, do i NEED the Avid syringe kit etc? I used to sort out my old Hope's with just a bit of silicone tube from work, ho hum
happy new year by the way
you sound like you do need to bleed the brake mate.
Avids have a reputation to be a mare to bleed... dunno if you NEED the bleed kit.. sound like you have an understanding of the proceedure... I'd ask on bikemagic kit forum..
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thank you, wise master! :hug:
blimey - just checked on-line and the Juicy bleed kit is £25! According to the destructions, it appears to be necessary to buy the kit to make the whole lot work, not like pouring oil into the master reservoir of a Hope and "pumping" it through to the caliper with the lever!!
I do have some DOT 5,1 fluid i used to bleed my old Hope's, anyone know what Avid use? they say it's "High-Performance DOT fluid" whatever that means!
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BTW, it's hot to wear on the ups....
Cheers. Hot on the ups, sounds ideal for Scotland.
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I think you can do Avids with a cpl of old syringes
http://www.youtube.com/v/6mg6NbIjmOM&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/6mg6NbIjmOM&hl=en&fs=1)
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unfortunately i am not an intravenous drug user (recreational or medicinal), so i don't have any cocking syringes lying around.
oh, I know, I'll go up to Harehills tonight and have a rummage about in the bins.... :lol:
p.s. that dude has nice specs. he looks like someone from the remedial class at my old high school
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Do you get a pair of those shorts with the bleed kit?
I've always bled my brakes using the tried and tested car brake method, which will be what you used to do with your Hopes, which involves pushing fluid through the system from the reservoir to the caliper. This certainly uses more fluid and is more messy so make sure you take your wheel off and your pads out before bleeding. And make sure you have enough fluid in the (relatively) tiny reservoir.
DOT4 and 5 are interchangeable but don't mix in the same system.
Check out t'interweb for any number of vids on how to bleed brakes.
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You'll love this
Bushings seem to be not well!!!
Arse!!
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I've always bled my brakes using the tried and tested car brake method, which will be what you used to do with your Hopes, which involves pushing fluid through the system from the reservoir to the caliper.
cheers, I am tempted to buy the bleed kit to see if the shorts and specs come with it.
I've only had the damn bike since Sept, and after all the hassle with the Headshock, brake woes is all i need (especially as i nearly experienced an exact replica of the car incident that totalled my last bike in July - damn near bit through my lower lip!).
Avid claim that the tapping of the syringe gets bubbles out of the fluid before injection (it does all seem a bit of a faff, though) just like a smack 'ed - weyhey!
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You'll love this
Bushings seem to be not well!!!
Arse!!
Course they are not well, they are Fox bushes! Turn your bike upside down, compress the forks a couple of times and leave for an hour. Turn right way up, pump up your brakes, and off you go with 'fixed' bushes. ;)
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not the forks...
it' the shock
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the shock of what? your weight? :shrug:
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:spank:
no
loose / worn plastic cuff thingies in the eyes... need to search toolbox.. i'm sure i have a drift... but need some more cuffs from BETD :'(
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I may have some. I bought a set of Fox RP/Triad bushes for the Stumpie and there are loads of bushes in it I didn't need. I'll go and check in the shed later tonight and give you a bell.
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Cool, just taken dust caps off links and I have to say the lock nut and axle bit have ME a bit wierded out!
I need to speak to lbs / marin uk tomorrow :shrug:
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long chat to Marin mechanic par excellance
bushings most likely OK
probs bearing failure, off to get me a new set sat morn :'(
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Another product recall - I doubt anyone has these - bit racey for you chaps.
http://www.18bikes.co.uk/news.php?articleshow=263 (http://www.18bikes.co.uk/news.php?articleshow=263)
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long chat to Marin mechanic par excellance
bushings most likely OK
probs bearing failure, off to get me a new set sat morn :'(
:'(
Good news is I just bought some '09 Van32R with 15QR for £280 from world's worst bike shop 8).
Does anyone happen to have a spare 140mm purple Fox Vanilla spring? Even if I have to pay full wack for a spring from Mojo that's still a bargain since the 32mmVan R with through axle are like rocking horse shit. In fact Fox claim not even to make them on their website :shrug:
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that's one fuck off lush fork for a fuck off price... what depravity did you perfrom to get those :lol:
er... springs.... would a spring from a pike fit :shrug:
i have an old pike coil fork you see... 8)
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... well they are a bunch of cocksuckers in there ..
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it seems the damping cartridge in my headshock has gone again. this is the second time in 3 months of ownership (delivered early september, with a faulty shock valve - which EVANS cocksuckers repaired apparently).
this is getting to be too much, as i rely on this steed for commuting to work. Anyone know the resale value of a C'dale F2 only ever used for road/canal commuting for 3 months (assuming they get the shock working again)?
On another note I have an old Orange C16R frame that unfortunately takes a 1" steerer. I previously had a pace carbon rigid fork (that snapped on impact with a car), anyone know of cheap MTB forks with a 1" steerer so i can get this old hefter back on the road for the commute?
cheers in advance, O wise ones
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i think you'll only get a rigid fork with 1" steerer these days, sorry
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aye, that's exactly what i'm after!!
any recommendations? P2 or similar? i don't think DT Swiss even do a 1" steerer for their version of the old Pace RC31. can't seem to find one inchers anywhere on the t'interweb
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sorry, I thought you'd asked for a mtb fork which doesn't equate to rigid in my book :)
don't know ought about rigid forks except that I have an old Marin in the shed with a 1" rigid fork. There's no point in taking the fork off but I could sell you the whole bike for spares? PM me if you are interested.
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I *may* have just bought a Cotic Hemlock frame.
Could I please have your suggestions for suitable forks.
Frame is 105 - 150mm depending on rocker plate used so I need something between 120 - 160mm on the fork front. Needs to be able to be wound down for the ups as this may become my only bike and will be built up fairly light.
Thoughts on brakes would be handy too, but the world of brakes is a bit easier to comprehend than that of forks.
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See my other thread tim, want to buy some *nearly* new Hope Mono M4's? Perfect for a big forked hardtail ;D
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I *may* have just bought a Cotic Hemlock frame.
You either have or have not - make your mind up!!!
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I *may* have just bought a Cotic Hemlock frame.
You either have or have not - make your mind up!!!
Nope, definitely a "may", depends whether the seller accepts my offer or not!
See my other thread tim, want to buy some *nearly* new Hope Mono M4's? Perfect for a big forked hardtail ;D
Depends what forks I buy doesn't it now? ;D
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sorry, I thought you'd asked for a mtb fork which doesn't equate to rigid in my book :)
don't know ought about rigid forks except that I have an old Marin in the shed with a 1" rigid fork. There's no point in taking the fork off but I could sell you the whole bike for spares? PM me if you are interested.
:-\
tempting but i don't think there's room in my cellar for another 1/2 built up bike. ta for the offer though ;D
I've got a GT LTS 1 frame with shot to pieces rockshox rear shock and shot to pieces 'zocchi's that my mate gave me before he moved to NZ. might try building that one up instead to tide me over.
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:dance1:
right
i've been here, all year in fact.
there is like NO choice on maufacturer.
Fox
why?
coz even i dont break them, they work, the UK servicers are great, and they have a range with choice in for you. You get what you pay for...
It's 36s vs 32s time....
36 = best single crown fork for all but 60 ft gap jumps in the world. talas, rc2 is the daddy. 160mm full travel, could be unwieldy for all but the most full on XC / AM we do in the peak I reckon.
32 = 15 not 20 mm bolt through (Hope hubs of pro II or later can be sorted for this.. if hubs older than that you'll need a new hub.. that should be on your shpping list anyways.. coz the bullet didnt hace 200 through axle did it
32s are lighter, RLC only have slow speed comprsseion adjustablity ( not an issue, even for me)
Come in 140mm max OR 150mm
I have the 150mm. they rock!
fatkid soon to own 36s... so you can bounce on either for real if you want.
BTW, did i mention it simply MUST be Fox.
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As for brakes...
they all break... so you need ones easy to bleed, mend but spares for.
you know where i'm going with this
If I was buying a set of brakes... today, now..
I'd get the new M4s with finger adjust and bite point adjust, in read and burnished steel with red floating rotors and braided hoses..
they have them in at 18bikes ;D
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Thanks for the thoughts Doc, lets hope he accepts my offer.
I heed your words above, but what would your choice of Rockshox be (in case some come up secondhand)?
Those Fox Talas 32s are quite a price! I think 32s rather than 36s for the weight though.
Hopefully I'll be able to spec the frame up with some good sale bargains and secondhand stuff.
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Thanks for the thoughts Doc, lets hope he accepts my offer.
I heed your words above, but what would your choice of Rockshox be (in case some come up secondhand)?
Those Fox Talas 32s are quite a price! I think 32s rather than 36s for the weight though.
Hopefully I'll be able to spec the frame up with some good sale bargains and secondhand stuff.
:wall:
no, sorry.
Lyrics have the spec I admitt... there was a massive recall on these in the 1st year they were out. FBSF is the one of the few survivors who has a fully functioning pair... very nice I have to say.
Once in few weeks there are 36s for sale on southerndownhill... you 'll need to service them and they are often not air sprung... no travel adjust either.
Pikes dont have enough travel ( to keep the bike balanced)
32s with 15mm axles are too new to be bought 2nd hand.
there is a reason why fox forks are soo rare 2nd hand... and that's why you'll buy them new from stiff in Leeds (cheapest place), with 0% finance and probs get the brakes there as well ;)
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This topic is so funny. You really really don't need fork x or brake y.
You can convince yourself that you do all you like but there's plenty of people ride lots of hard stuff very fast without needing to have the very latest and greatest bits of kit. They just learn to ride the bike, get on with it and don't spend half their time agonising and geeking over parts.
Honestly, it's like an autism love-in on here sometimes ;D
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Bubb's, :agree:
But we're not talking about need but DESIRE man :great:
tim, you don't need 36's, none of us do for what we do, if you see what I mean.
Fox vs everyone else, Fox imho. Can't imagine where FD got his advise to buy Fox from ;)
i agree about talas being expensive hence my choice of vanilla's. compression damping also not worth the cost imho. but you can't reduce travel on vans so you are back to talas. So there's your choice: Fox Van32 (£300 ish) with no travel adjust or Talas32 with (£500 ish). If you want to pay less go and get some Marzocchi MX Pro's, an absolute bargain at £150.
You pays your money. :devangel:
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And even more equally (?) there's a whole bunch of people who have awesome bikes and can't ride for shit. Cofe sells his guides to them.
And exactly how many bikes worth how much do you have in the garage at the mo Mr Bubbs? And whilst we are on the subject of pans, kettles and dark shades of grey, how many people on UKB have ever waster their money on a bottle of helium just for the hell of it? Ha, see.
tlr knows exactly what to buy, and he has the cash to do so. This is bike number what t? He just want's his conscience massaging a little before he parts with the cash.
Leave us losers alone and go and administer some proper threads :)
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Reading between the lines, and from what i may vaguely remember from previous threads, does this mean that you're getting rid of a bullit tlr? If so, selling it?
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Who care's really - we all need something to be geeky about. I can't ride my bike for shit - but I like riding it. This thread just shows that cycling is the new golf and perfect for Men who like to compare shiny things. Compared to my knob jock neighbours, who change their porsche every few weeks, a few hundred quid spent on some forks isn't going to bankrupt most people.
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Fuck me I love this forum... In the main I agree with all the points and insights above. More importanty I just.....
Well... I just
;D
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Reading between the lines, and from what i may vaguely remember from previous threads, does this mean that you're getting rid of a bullit tlr? If so, selling it?
I'll certainly be selling a Bullit, black, medium, but hopefully I have a buyer already. I'll let you know if it doesn't happen.
This topic is so funny. You really really don't need fork x or brake y.
You can convince yourself that you do all you like but there's plenty of people ride lots of hard stuff very fast without needing to have the very latest and greatest bits of kit. They just learn to ride the bike, get on with it and don't spend half their time agonising and geeking over parts.
Honestly, it's like an autism love-in on here sometimes ;D
Ah, but you see, I will need a fork and a set of brakes for a new frame. And its much easier and cheaper to let Fatdoc be the guinea pig, let him sort out the wheat from the chaff and then impart his great wealth of knowledge (and personal experience) on here. :thumbsup:
Buying climbing gear isn't half as much fun as buying bike kit. If only I could afford to do the same with Porsches....
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how many people on UKB have ever waster their money on a bottle of helium just for the hell of it?
I thought these guys were selling helium balloons in the Stone Circles at Glastonbury once, thought it would be a laugh to have a play around with and tighten the vocal chords. They were a bit pricey at £5 as it turned out it was NO2 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I certainly had a laugh :lol: :lol: :lol:
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And even more equally (?) there's a whole bunch of people who have awesome bikes and can't ride for shit. Cofe sells his guides to them.
;D
when i saw the first sentence started with "Cofe..." i thought i would be in the above category. Thankfully, shorton narley has only twigged the secret of our business, that's all. phew.
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I'm stuck between whether to go for a new Carrera S or trying to source a second hand GT3 RS - please help :lol:
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I'm stuck between whether to go for a new Carrera S or trying to source a second hand GT3 RS - please help :lol:
Nat's Auntie 'parked' her X5 on top of her husbands brand new Porsche last week (we were told this over a rather uncomfortable dinner table), it was a replacement for a Carrera 4 so I'm doubting it was a cheap mistake. When asked, she felt 'some' resistance. The same woman has trashed a rather high number of cars. She cut it too fine between two gate posts in the same X5 and instead of reversing just carried on, crushing all of one side!
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My neighbours asked me a few months ago when fuel was around £1.20 a litre - if I cycled because I couldn't afford to fill my car up. They have a porshse and a X5 so you can imagine what they're like.
I'll ask my neighbour which to go for the GT3 or carrera 4s - I'm sure they've had both recently. My wife calls them the Neanderthals as they struggle to string more than 3 words together - so the response may not be very useful.
Back to bikes - anyone bought any new things recently - I'm sure FD must have added to his arsenal, or is everyone too embarrassed to post now.
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This topic is so funny. You really really don't need fork x or brake y.
You can convince yourself that you do all you like but there's plenty of people ride lots of hard stuff very fast without needing to have the very latest and greatest bits of kit. They just learn to ride the bike, get on with it and don't spend half their time agonising and geeking over parts.
Honestly, it's like an autism love-in on here sometimes ;D
cough cough........SCOOBY...........cough cough
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Well, a large, black Hemlock frame is mine now.
Just the small matter of forks, brakes, wheels, shifters, mechs, chainset, tyres, etc, etc to go and I'll have a bike I can ride.
Completely ignoring FDs advice - I'm quite liking the look of the Pace RC41 Fighters. They're 150mm, they're light, they're British, they lock down and most importantly they're black. And they leak supposedly...
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Well, a large, black Hemlock frame is mine now.
Just the small matter of forks, brakes, wheels, shifters, mechs, chainset, tyres, etc, etc to go and I'll have a bike I can ride.
Completely ignoring FDs advice - I'm quite liking the look of the Pace RC41 Fighters. They're 150mm, they're light, they're British, they lock down and most importantly they're black. And they leak supposedly...
nice.
but seriously, who rides a black bike. ;)
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cough cough........SCOOBY...........cough cough
Yeah, I bought it and drove it - I didn't spend half my waking hours agonising over which oil to use nor did I spend endless cash changing parts in search of that elusive geekgasm.
I'm amazed Fatdoc's Scooby ever left his drive tbh, probably a good thing he never got into car tuning :)
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cough cough........SCOOBY...........cough cough
Yeah, I bought it and drove it - I didn't spend half my waking hours agonising over which oil to use nor did I spend endless cash changing parts in search of that elusive geekgasm.
I'm amazed Fatdoc's Scooby ever left his drive tbh, probably a good thing he never got into car tuning :)
It definitely left his drive, just not necessarily with him driving it! :furious:
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dont start bouncing your scooby fetish onto me Bubba, twas you that embarked on a car tuning spree that makes a bling bike habit insignificant by comparision... you did eventually see the light and join the van owners club I admitt.... but only after deafening yourself and most of western sheffield with an exhaust sooooo damn load I swear I could here you start it up from where I live ( 4 miles away)...... would of fitted in more round manor top than your plesant and sleepy neightbourhood!!
As for the Pace (aka DT swiss?) forks
Good luck mate, coz they will not doubt break...... frequently. They are the LOTUS of forks
Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious
damping is harsh, notchy and they flex... apart from that... good choice ;)
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Latest update is that I nearly bought a pair of 2007 32 Talas, that is until the seller decided that my offer of 10% less than asking price was so derisory he wouldn't even give me a price that he would find acceptable. Very eccentric behaviour.
A pair of Norton's 32 Van Rs from James are looking like a good bet, but I'm not in a rush - not even picked up the frame yet. I'd love a pair of your 150 Talas, but dropping £700 for forks seems a bit much. Still, there's a WLI coming up....
I was lent an Elise for 6 months, it behaved faultlessly (unlike me in it :whistle:)
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tlr - fox forks from james' were a one off, they don't stock fox. The forks came off a new bike apparently. Someone wanted them replaced with something else for some reason :shrug:. They probably put on some 40mm monsters for xc'ing round the Peak. Or didn't like the fact that they are black which is so last year. Ask Fatdoc, he's had about ten colours changes on his bike since buying it :lol:. I reckon you could get all those parts off FD anyway, nearly new, hardly used. :ang:
I wouldn't go Pace forks either although they may have better quality control in manufacture now they are made in Swizzerland (DT Swiss).
Mr Cofe - You bastard exposing my true identity :oops:
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pop quiz hotshots:
my front end (wheel?) has developed a regular knocking sound when the brakes are applied (may do it when not but not as obvious). i'm not really sure of the source but i think it might be the front hub. it's a hope XC which supposedly has sealed cartridge bearings.
don't think it's the headset, don't think it's the fork, hence the hub idea. does this sound like a fair diagnosis? would appreciate any suggestions cos i have no idea.
thanks gents.
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Check all three as follows and report back please Mr Cofe.
Front hub check:
turn bike upside down and stand on the bar end to stop them moving. Grab the wheel and turn it side to side. After you have got over the shock of how flexible your forks are try and feel for anything loose and watch the internal hub spacer and external seal at the hub for relative movement.
Headset check:
Turn wheel 90 degrees to bike, apply front brake and rock the bike back and forward (in line with top tube). Watch the headset to check for relative movement between internal and external bits (thought that was sufficiently technical).
Fork check:
As above with headset but watch / feel for clunk between the fork stanchion and lowers.
Brake check:
Is your rotor loose or one or more of the bolts loose? Do your brake pads need replacing?
Alternatively bring your bike down to our work tomorrow / Wednesday and I'll have a look.
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warped disc rotor get my vote
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good point, but 'knocking'?
bring the bike out Wednesday night Cofe, we'll sort it for you ..... :lol:
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will have a look tonight and report back.
bring the bike out Wednesday night Cofe, we'll sort it for you ..... :lol:
yeah yeah. me and my petzl zipka will see you on weds... ;D
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so, had a close look. think it's the brakes - uneven pad wear rubbing on the outer bit of the rotor where there's cutaways like on this:
(http://www.pricepoint.com/images/styleImages/D_115%20HAYRR5.jpg)
looks like due new pads anyway so will do that, clean it up and see how it's doing. hubs and headset etc seem fine.
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what front fork do you run?
it could be the damper in the fork leg? hold the front end up and slant it to say 30 degrees to the ground and force it to the floor. manitous have this problem throughout the last few years, its just the cumulative effect of manufacturing intolerances. if its developed recently then it could be this....and uneven pad wear sounds like poor brake setup or a dragging rotar....disc brakes should have even wear, unless its a cheap one with a slave piston?
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float rlc's. brakes are hayes nines.
there's every chance they're set up whack but they took a punishing in the mud on sunday too. will test the fork thing.
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shim your brake calipers central when you fit new pads
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Hayes 9's are a tad industrial in there build, Ive had two completely sieze on me. Be careful when prizing the pots back if there stuck, i mamaged to destory one set.
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shim your brake calipers central when you fit new pads
how do you do this?
about to fit non sintered apds to hope M4s for spain's dusty trails... need all the brake I can get!
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several ways but basic choice is with or without pads in. Latter is more difficult but gets a better result and is recommended by Hope but I can't find their tech spiel bit on their website so here goes (but read post mount bit below too):
wheel in, pads out, push pistons back in (use and old pad to push on not straight onto the piston). pump brake lever watching piston movement - don't run the pistons into the rotor! If the pistons are moving evenly pretty much then set the rotor so that it is central to the caliper, not the pistons (see below for caliper setting). If you have one sticky piston then set the caliper offset to the rotor so that the rotor would be in the middle of the pads, not in the middle of the caliper BUT make sure the rotor is not too close to the caliper. This should ensure that you have even pressure and therefore even pad wear and that you are not flexing the rotor from side to side when you brake. If set properly Hope rotors make a nice whirring noise as the brake is gently applied.
All of this is easier than it sounds, it's a case of getting the pistons as central as possible to the rotor.
to set calipers: this is different for ISO and post mount. Post mounts with spherical washers are easier and you can cheat by slackening off the retaining bolts (caliper/adaptor to fork - the bolt with the head facing backwards on the bike). Apply the brake (pads in), tighten the bolts. He, presto pretty damn central.
ISO - get a load of shims (thin washers), your brake should have come with some. Once you've been through part one above shim the caliper so that the pistons are central to the rotor. Top and bottom of the caliper may require different shim stacks to get this right. This is a pain in the arse and not to be undertaken if you don't have much time to spare, or on the trail!
Alternatively whack em in, plead stupidity in Spain and get them to set them up. You are paying for this "holiday" I believe? Or I'll pop round tomorrow pm before / during riding to help if you want?
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My 'inherited' work stand has finally fallen to bits, its been in my garage for at least 8 years and I remember my Dad having it when I was a kid - so it must be at least 20 years old. So I've had a look at Mr Wiggle and am a bit shocked at the prices - anything from £100 - 300 (£300 was the park one) which seem a bit steep to me. Anyone got any recommendations for a replacement?
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I use a fold-back bike storage hanger to work on mine:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=8836&f%5FSupersetQRY=C288&f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5Fbct=c003154c003136c003545 (http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=8836&f%5FSupersetQRY=C288&f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5Fbct=c003154c003136c003545)
(http://84.19.224.75/products/thumbs/00001089/00008836.jpg)
only pitfall is that you fix it to a wall, so you've got to do your work wherever it is put, obviously
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You could always build a small wall, mount it on wheels, then bolt it to that? Hey presto, problem solved.
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bit of string tied to the roof of your garage? :shrug:
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Fatdoc...
What do I need to service my RP3?
I have a vice with rubber grip cover thing, so I should be able to unscrew the shock body without damaging anything.
Seals and oil and stuff - where do I get that from? And is there anything that might go horribly wrong?
Thanks in advance....
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As of last Saturday FDs RP23 was at Mojo being serviced - apparently it wasn't working properly!! Surprise Surprise
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Aprt from the most basic of taking the air can off and back on don't go there.
Wise pennies spent on mojo servicing are in my opinion
What's wrong with it? Got mine serviced cox was about to go out of warrenty.. Making a bit of a knocking noise.. But still worked fine. Saved me some cash, not much changed but seals
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a ha...
i thought it might be an easy job. mojo it is then.
no, i've finally got around to swapping the forks on my whyte (replacing the mavericks with fox 36 talas rlc) and thought it might be time to give the rear shock a bit of tlc.
i was thinking new oil and seals and stuff.
been a bloody nightmare though. broke the bolt off in a new hed doctor last weekend, which i had to drill out. this weekend i managed to finally fit the forks, but then broke the olive after shortening the brake hose.
hopefully will be able to fit a new one in the next few days, and then get some midweek evening action going on...
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So my old spds finally bit the dust (ripped off half of one on a rock), so switched to the new ones i got with bike. I have them set as loose as possible, but sometimes when I try to release my foot from them (by swinging heel out and down as I have always done) the toe hangs up and needs an extra wiggle to free it (with disasterous consequences once already). Any suggestions? Should you replace cleats on shoes when you get new pedals (my cleats are a bit rusty but no major damage). I have no idea what model of SPDs I have now and had before. Can take pics if required.
(and going for flat pedals is not an option, I have never had problems with spds until now).
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Worn cleats don't release easily or fully, so that is one possibility.
Another, depending how old your pedals/cleats were is that there were 2 models of cleat (SH51 and SH52 I think) and they don't work quite right with the other model of pedal.
Either way, changing the cleats should fix it.
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I had a very enjoyable ride around Bedgebury last night, despite my front Mono M4 calliper venting most of the hydraulic fluid from the front brake just before I set off, and hence leaving me with only my back brake to slow me down.
The leak was from the 90 degree connector, where the hose enters the calliper. The bolt had worked loose (I didn't realise this) and when I pulled the brake on the fluid squirted out all over the place.
I think it's probably down to the fact that I had the connector angle set wrong, so suspension action was pulling the connector back and forth and after a while this had caused the bolt to work loose.
Anyone else had this problem? I've never had an fluid leak from Hopes before.
On the other hand, the newly fitted Fox 36s are awesome...
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Sounds like you need to use the hose guide, or better still a tie wrap, to stop your hose moving and undoing the banjo bolt.
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i've got the hose guide attached. i will see if i can fiddle with it to improve the angle.
thing is, i had upside down forks before (maverick duc32) which are s'posed to be much more troublesome re front discs, yet they were absolutely fine.
when you say tie wrap, i assume you mean a vertical zip tied hose guide of some sort...?
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Zip tie the hose to the frame some 5 to 10cm from the caliper.. to stop the tooing and froing of the hose working itself free from the bolt on the caliper..
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You see, this is why he is a technical guru - apparently it's not a tie wrap but a zip tie.
See image and zip tie at top of fork lower. Make sure it's tight. If you don't snip off the excess then you can turn it into the spokes and get that wizzing sound we used to have as kids using cardboard and clothes pegs. :thumbsup:
[another gratuitous bike shot]
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1050/570542947_25083d2db6_b.jpg)
[/another gratuitous bike shot]
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You see, this is why he is a technical guru - apparently it's not a tie wrap but a zip tie.
Tie wraps being the things used on freezer bags :)
Very pretty, very clean?
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So are you saying that now it is summer I need to swap my tie wraps for zip ties? :shrug:
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Get those tasstles on yr bar ends back on whilst yr there mate ;D
Pink, naturally. ;)
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I always find the problem is getting on lock on's with tassles, it's ok to get the old push on types. There's a gap in the market there
-
For all the DH/freeeride orientated members, any chainguide recommendations?
I'm looking to run a single ring and am not too bothered about having a bash ring at the moment. I've heard that some E13 devices have compatability issues with Saints and you need angle grind the inner ring tabs off, which'd be a bit of a pain. It's for ISCG old mounts btw.
-
PM fbsf, he dremeled a E13 onto my wolf ridge no probs, sdh forum is also good for this level of detail
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Cheers. What have you got? a SRS guide?
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I run a e-13 srs on my intense with diabolous cranks but have run a srs with saints no problem. get the correct back plate and you should be ok. Chain guides are a bit of a pain in the ass as there is no real hard and fast rules about fitting. It took me 5 attempts to get my srs on to my intense, thats 5 times taking the cranks on and off!!! The only important thing is keeping your chain line as much as possible.
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Successfully managed to attach a E13 LS1 today, although I need to give it a test to determine how much rubbing/crap chainline there'll be. Hopefully not much.
Fitting wasn't helped by the fact that whoever built the frame seems to have managed to weld on the ISCG tabs a bit squiffy (or they're a bit bent) . Then had to take an angle grinder to the Saints because of the wack number of spacers I had to use.
Should work though, we'll see on Sunday.
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I had to tussle a bit to get my E13 DRS to fit the Big Hit - I'm not sure just how standard ISCG tabs really are.
-
IIRC there have been 2 ISCG tab types in the past and now there is another, which was devised by dave Weagle ( DW link suspension guru) that is now adopted by the industry global wide...
I agre though, the whole cahin guide thing is a dark dark art..
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The new one's supposed to be ISCG05 isn't it? Which is supposed to be standardised...
Went out and everything seemed to be running alright, until the powerlink fell out as I didn't connect it properly and then I couldn't find it. Arse.
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re my rear shock on the kona...
the spring says 600 x 2.5
is the 2.5 the shock stroke in inches? or something else? cos i can't find any writing on the shock itself.
and is the 07 stinky single pivot or something more complicated? i read something about faux bar, which is clearly something different to four bar!
yours
elephant man
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i've just figured out that the stroke is 2.75"
which means i want a 400lb spring max.
so 600lb is a bit much, eh...
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The 'faux bar' title refers to the fact that it doesn't have a Horst link and cannot be called a true four bar system (for some reason, presumably all down to patenting). So the rear wheel is in effect attached to the chain stay on your bike (I believe) while a Horst link effectively has the rear wheel attached to the seat stay as on fbsf's M3.
Edit: Looking at the tftuned site, if you're 85Kg in riding kit with a 2.75in stroke shock, a 450lb spring seems nearer the mark.
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it would be, but that stinky has 7" of travel, not 8"...
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Ah... That's good deduction your part to work out what I'd done!
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I am a dedicated critical rationalist...
Your theory was sound. You were merely working with erroneous data.
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Assumptions on faux as above all correct. M3s don't run a four bars FSR.. They are the masters of VPP
All spesh are four bar... They own the patent
Well done on the spring Yoss... Get yorself healed and come up to storrhes and greno in a day?? Less intense than wharners. By the time you've healed I'll have a whole day pass out
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Def up for more of the same.
Will bring a chauffeur next time.
I will get the spring in asap. I assume spring pre-load is just a case of fine tweaking?
Still need to sort out the high speed compression thingy (i.e. the air chamber pressure) as well as the rebound damping, but I'm sure the sag is the key to it all.
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Error. Forgot the M3 was VPP, but the axle/seatstay config is correct I think.
I'm surprised Fatdoc hasn't told you that you NEED a Ti spring yet, to save those grams and for extra bling... ;)
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I assume spring pre-load is just a case of fine tweaking?
No more than one and half turns to put pre-load on, the correct spring rate does the rest. For air pressures for the chambers look on line for the tuning of your shock and start there, to start with it will seem like your riding a sofa compared to how hard it was before! Put you rebound to half way and then + or- as you go on. I do it it one click increments. Takes a while but you pretty much leave it set up till you need to service it!
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er yes.
when I got that bike i looked like arnold and weighed about three stone more than i do now. and i once rode it around one of the xc routes at afan. it seemed sensibly stiff back then...
i will embrace the sofa bike theory. in fact, i might even get our development chap to cover the entire frame with foam and then upholster it in a fetching animal print velvet. maybe the black and gold zebra, with a matching leopard on the bars and saddle.
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I am soo unworthy....
read this
www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35572 (http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35572)
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
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And this one for suspension, even has Dave Weagel posting in the thread!!!
www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140919 (http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140919)
awesome....
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I am soo unworthy....
read this
www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35572 (http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35572)
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Well I guess us engineers / mathematicians / physicists do know a thing or two after all ;D.
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So just fckin explain on the back of that why the fook u
Ride some single pivot over priced piece of under performance?
:shrug:
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That frame that you linked to (maybe in the other topic) looked nice, but pretty expensive given the current exchange rate!
Also, how about this for some bike pr0n;
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300311445445 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300311445445)
Looks incredible, and is supposed to be more robust then more conventional DH bikes...
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So just fckin explain on the back of that why the fook u
Ride some single pivot over priced piece of under performance?
:shrug:
Overpriced, yes, under performing, no. The reason I have it is I got it very cheap :).
Single pivots don't work eh? How many motocross / trials / any other sort of motorbike have you seen with a four bar suspension system?
Are you getting overly stressed at work again at the moment mate? ;D
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Face it in terms of pedal feedback, bob and the shock compression rates and ratios there is no reason except maintainace to ride a single pivot MTB. Unless you are too skint to ride a modern suspension platform..
As for work stress, yes.. I've just missed a xc training ride / dig session to make some more jumps due to work meetings... So I'm pissed...
-
I think me and you need to go to the pub to discuss A level maths mechanics :beer2:, the effect of linear or non-linear levers :alky:, linear and non linear springs :pissed:, hysteresis :devangel: and the price of fish finings and its effect on beer. :beer2: :alky: :pissed:
Anyone else care to join us? :goodidea:
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dig session to make some more jumps
Which jumps are these Jon? Have you seen the Dronfield jumps lately - they're looking insane! Even the small lines look damned committing.
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Where are they Bubba? Sounds interesting...
-
We need to co elle s are knowledge..
As there is a mini DH track near there also.. That needs a day of digging to become a great after work venue.
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Where are they Bubba? Sounds interesting...
Here (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=dronfield&sll=53.334004,-1.458462&sspn=0.009392,0.019183&ie=UTF8&ll=53.296913,-1.45498&spn=0.001175,0.002398&t=h&z=19)
You can see a few jumps on the satellite image, but there's a shitload more there now.
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Dear Fatdoc, was out for a little ride yesterday and did this?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3588665478_778eeda3fb_b.jpg)
Is this just excessive beer, because it's on a singlespeed, or am I just too fat?
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hmmmm :-\
you two and hubs.....fatdoc managed to shear nearly all of the flange off where the spokes attach to the hub couple more mm's and it truely would of been a free wheel
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Where are they Bubba? Sounds interesting...
Popped down today for a more detailed look. There's a couple of beginner lines I'm going to go down and try:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3588819487_ea316f38bf_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38125571@N07/3588819487/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/3589627144_ed569c540e_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/38125571@N07/3589627144/)
Also noticed somebody has started sorting the little cliff drop I've had my eye on for ages in Graves Park :)
-
hmmmm :-\
you two and hubs.....fatdoc managed to shear nearly all of the flange off where the spokes attach to the hub couple more mm's and it truely would of been a free wheel
what are you trying to say? :shrug: :-\
-
I sheared the flange off the front of a Hope pro 2 last week.. Could have been very nasty..
Bubba, you will find that drop near finished shortly.. Been a hard evening.. Couple of tons of rocks moved and the dirt skin near complete...
Btw... My demo is dead.. Frame back to spesh uk.. Bearings and axle stuck..
Good job my 800 quid glory is now in my possession, or I'd be bikeless!!
-
Cheers for the photos Bubba, they look worth checking out. Might combine it with a trip to Chesterfield BMX track. I've got into trails a bit recently, hopefully heading up to GYPO in Grimsby on Friday which are supposed to be awesome.
Fatdoc; Did you get that glory from SDH then? The Demo dying just goes to prove that you can never have too many bikes... Do you reckon you'll get a brand new frame from Spesh, or is it out of warranty?
-
origional 05 model, way off warrenty, hope to come to some arrangement over the swing arm.
Btw some 50:50 pedals & 2.7 hi rollers going for the price of a pint..
Yep, the glory is the glory8 with totems and hope6 pots..
Wierd ride... Wheels too heavy to change direction!!! Fine suspension mind.. Really supple. Small ad big hits fine.. And it's only a dhx3. Can't fault the bike at all. 1.5 head tube is fookin massive!!
-
Btw some 50:50 pedals & 2.7 hi rollers going for the price of a pint..
Jon, wouldn't mind the pedals if they're still going cheap dude - I'm getting fed up with swapping mine between the BigHit and the Chameleon :)
-
Btw some 50:50 pedals & 2.7 hi rollers going for the price of a pint..
Jon, wouldn't mind the pedals if they're still going cheap dude - I'm getting fed up with swapping mine between the BigHit and the Chameleon :)
Nice and gentle on the shins them 50/50's mainly cos the pins are shit......
The drop in Graves will be finished tomorrow night, 6ft face to a very well constructed(moved 1 ft forward, widened and the angle slackened for your info bubbs) should be well fun
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Will they take proper pins?
Nice one guys - I'd looked at it for ages but there were too many trees until they cleared them recently.
Not sure how long it'll last with the rather obvious intro-ravine though :lol:
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You have the peels for the cost of
A couple of car stickers.
That drop tranny has at least 3 tons of rock in the tranny.. It air going nowhere.
Smaller more amenable projects are
Planned, my xc bike is bust, so I got no other mid week riding fun easily accessible..
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Bubba, cheers for the Dronfield jumps knowledge.
Went to Chessy BMX track yesterday and popped in to have a look on the way back, by which time it was lashing it down. They look great, pretty extensive as well and a decent range of sizes. It's top of the list for when the weather drys up...
-
You have the peels for the cost of
A couple of car stickers.
Cool - need to get the stickers printed up.
It's top of the list for when the weather drys up...
Aye, I'm keen for a play - did you enjoy Staveley? Like the fact it's mainly downhill but it's a burly bmx track - I can't clear most stuff there properly.
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Ahh, is Staveley it's real name then? Makes sense as it didn't really seem to be in Chesterfield.
Yes, it was really good, made a nice change from riding Bole Hills.
The first straight is really fast, although I'm not entirely sure how you're supposed to clear the big double on the second straight. I hit it after jumping the step up into the berm then pedalling all through the berm and yet still hung up on it.
I'll let you know when I'm heading out to Dronfield, and if you're around we'll have to have a bit of a session.
-
Aye, "Chesterfield" is a bit optimistic really.
I get put off Bolehills because of the reports of the knifepoint bike thefts. Staveley is probably just as quick for me to get to from here anyway.
The first straight is ridiculous and I always get scared of launching at full speed into a set of triples.
Yeah, gimme a shout, i'll come down and flail if I'm about :)
-
Bole Hills seems alright at the moment. I've been up there quite a bit with my riding resurgence. There's normally a reasonably sized group of riders up there in te evening, with the usual little kids hanging round. Even the kids weren't too bad, and we managed to persuade a few of them to help dig the other week.
First straight of Staveley? I know what you mean, it's pretty fast. We were hopping/pumping the first one then manualling or jumping the second 2. It's a bit scary as you can imagine impending disaster if you dropped the front wheel into the backside of one of them though! If you're pumping the first, the next two are easier to jump on the RHS, and is easy than it looks.
-
I know this bloke who got WD40 on his front brake - all over the discs and pads.
Whats the best solution - clean the disc in petrol and replace the pads, or will it just wear off after a bit of heavy braking? I really should be more careful (oops, I mean this bloke I know should really be more careful...)
-
Remove wheel, remove pads. Isopropyl alcohol over front disc(think you got some percy or go down halfords and buy a can of disc brake cleaner) wipe down with clean rag(not the one you use to wipe your hands after regreasing your bearings) Now the pads, aplly isopropyl again to the pads and give em a bit of a scrub with a rag, couple of times should do. Should clean em up nicely. Make sure no drips on brake/hubs, re-assemble.
-
Lovely job - ta for that Fatboy!
-
i have an old trek mtb (pretty good when i got it - about 400quids worth)
i want to swap out the forks to some ridged ones. put on some racks. drop bars and go "no path too rough" touring on it. (until i have the £ to buy a santos).
what then would you suggest for a fork? about £30. and must be able to take "v" brake. 1 1/8.
anyone got some to offer?
cheers!
-
this is what i am aiming for...
(http://www.wiggle.co.uk/images/salsa-fargo-zoom.jpg)
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I am disgusted you put such obscenity on this thread...
That's sooo wrong, on a roadie and mtb level. You don't really expect anyone to own such a form do you?
Or is this a wind up?
-
That is just wrong...........
-
Me thinks it needs some mud-guards.
-
oh it will have mud guards.
and yes i am serious, i think... :lol:
maybe i should just stick to touring on the ribble with some bigger treads...
-
Really getting into my xc at the moment and after having stopping problems on Saturday I was thinking about upgrading the brakes. Seen these on fleabay.
Are they any good?
Whats a reasonable price?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260443146779 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260443146779)
Thanks.
-
bargain
-
Hub wobblyness on my front wheel, fixable of do I need a new one if I need a new one what should I get? I'm riding a 2004 spech enduro comp.
Thanks in advance for any info.
-
That'll have specialized's own hubs I believe which are a copy of shimano's and therefore you 'just' need to tighten the cups. Come round and borrow some tools (or we could meet in the Rising Sun car park to sort it out). Or take it to Butterworths. Assuming the bearings aren't knackered it's a 5 minute job and you'll find out in the process whether they are or not.
-
classic cones IIRC.
cone spanners ( a la norton) let him grease up those little balls an tighten gently and equally... sorted.
Best done in a car park :P
-
just to keep you informed on my "disgusting" plans. i am looking about for a surley long haul trucker, an improvement i assume from your collective point of views, more pure touring??? yes? no?
going to increase my touring exp this aug with a trip across the reivers route.
-
09 Fox 36 Talas RC2 - The travel adjuster has stopped working.
Anyone got any bright ideas about what might've caused this? Would rather not have to take the bloody thing off and send it back to either Stif or Fox...
-
take the schrader valves off ( on for the air pressure) mist likely got dirt round it, impinging on the blue dial that adjusts the travel, may need needle nosed pliers if your stuck in long travel
-
Got a weird problem with my bike - the valves keep partially pulling out of my inner tubes. I'm using prestas in rims drilled for schrader (never had a problem with this before). Only happens in my back wheel (mavic D521 rim, panaracer cinder tyre). Tyres kept at around 40psi, mostly light riding, valves don't go through the hole at a funny angle or anything but don't seem to last more than a few weeks before the tyre goes flat because the valve has started to part company with the tube. Happens with different makes of tube and regardless of whether I screw the little retaining ring onto the valve stem.
Any ideas? Ta.
-
Does it happen with Schrader tubes too?
-
I've had this with some tyre/rim combinations. One was so bad that it would rip the valve out after a few hundred yards, luckily it was on my wife's bike...She got through 5 tubes between Les Gets and Morzine, just rolling down the road. I think that it happens when the tyre is loose and baggy on the rim, and the tube sticks a bit to the inside of the tyre. Everytime you brake the tube and tyre get dragged a bit round the rim eventually pulling the valve out.
Either swap tyres, talc up the tube, or stop braking.
If you have a narrowish Cinder on a 521 then that might be quite a loose combination as the rim is fairly wide.
-
take the schrader valves off ( on for the air pressure) mist likely got dirt round it, impinging on the blue dial that adjusts the travel, may need needle nosed pliers if your stuck in long travel
it turns fine (the adjuster), it just doesn't have any effect on the travel.
-
Mojo.
sorry.
:'(
-
Nice one - reckon I'll get my talc on and report back.
Not tried schrader valves, but only because my front wheel is drilled for presta and needing to keep 2 different types of tube around is a pain. I could always just drill out the valve hole on my front wheel though if it keeps being a problem - schrader valves seemed to be fixed into the tube more sturdily so I guess should they should be less likely to pull out.
Cheers.
-
Daft question, but you are using the right sized tube for tyre combo. i.e. don't expect a 2.1 tube to work well, especially at low pressures in a 2.3 or bigger tyre. Also don't buy Specialized tubes, they're crap :thumbsdown:
-
Not tried schrader valves, but only because my front wheel is drilled for presta and needing to keep 2 different types of tube around is a pain. I could always just drill out the valve hole on my front wheel though if it keeps being a problem
I've used the drill method and it seems to work pretty well, ie no catastrophic failures any nasties so far.
-
Big up to Norton for bike help tonight, waddage your way (though I suspect the promised beer will touch the cockles of his heart more).
-
grease, cones.. getting it tight.. that must be near nivarna for the pair of you. :lol:
-
Maybe not such a daft question, I think they're 1.75's in a 2.2 tyre. This might explain things.
Have had panaracer and no-name tubes and they all seem to fail equally quickly.
Not ridden since talcing my pneus so don't know if that has done the trick, but i reckon that in combination with buying the right size tubes next time and maybe getting my drill on I should be sorted.
Cheers guys.
-
Not ridden since talcing my pneus
.. which I skim read as talcing your penis. Does that help your valve from ripping too?
-
Are Maxxis High Rollers of a particularly soft compund? I had some generic old tyres on my hardtail which lasted about 5 years before a sidewall looked like it was about to fail. Had the new Full suss for about a year, and the tyre are already lookign noticably worn down. Not bothered if they are, just wondering.
-
Are Maxxis High Rollers of a particularly soft compund?
They are offered in several compounds.:
60a - Maxxpro - XC use
42a - Super Tacky - sticky for general use
40a - Slow Reezay - very sticky (I've used for DH)
Some tyres come with mixed compounds, for example 70a centre (extra hard wearing) with softer sidewalls and not all compounds are available for all sub-types/sizes.
-
Hmm, not sure which ones they are will need a closer look. Nothing is simple is it.
-
Not ridden since talcing my pneus
.. which I skim read as talcing your penis. Does that help your valve from ripping too?
I hoped somebody would.
I once spent the best part of a fortnight in font sn**gering at the 26" pneus and pneus junior signs I'd seen in the bike section of decathlon. Simple minds...
Talc does seem to help though, cheers for the knowledge guys.
-
Are Maxxis High Rollers of a particularly soft compund? I had some generic old tyres on my hardtail which lasted about 5 years before a sidewall looked like it was about to fail. Had the new Full suss for about a year, and the tyre are already lookign noticably worn down. Not bothered if they are, just wondering.
Bout right for a bike being used for lots of cross discipline stuff, my rear high roller lasted about 6 days in Morzine(you have been this year I just remembered!) outside lugs were fine however the middle lugs looked like someone had bitten them off!
-
That's what mine look like. Didn't take bike to Morzine tho'. Been using it a bit too much on tar lately, probably bad for them. Need to get some road slicks.
-
I've got 60a's on my XC/messing about hardtail and they've lasted quite well, rear is only just starting to look suspect. Will buy the same again, though a bit skinnier this time.
I echo Fatboyslimfast's comments about Morzine - my 40a's were more destroyed a week. The rear was gone after about 5 days really.
-
ha ha, my surly project started this morning. bought myself a canecreek S8 headset, chainset, and a new flat handlebar. just have to wait for stock of a long haul trucker frameset!
-
HELP Trying to fit a new rear cassette aqnd drive train un-aided by a compatent adult could anyone give advice help. Will pay in beer.
-
Whats the problem? I've got time and tools.
-
more details..
or just tap up me, TLR, Norton, FBSF or me to fix it for you...
DONT YOU DARE take it in to *that* shop... or you'll find your windows broken in...
tomorrow eve OK for me..
BTW.. you'll need a nu chain an all..
-
I love you all and want to have your children. I'll call you tomorrow Fatdoc.
-
FD, you need to go and break his windows. I heard that he went into the shop that shouldn't be named at least 5 times yesterday and reported that they were helpful! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
-
FD, you need to go and break his windows. I heard that he went into the shop that shouldn't be named at least 5 times yesterday and reported that they were helpful! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
You are such a dirty snitch, I cannot believe you told him that :-[
-
you dirty dirty b#stard.
:spank:
unless it was for 150mm AM / FR rig in a sale :)
they would never be helpful mind....
never. you have been mistaken
*click*
....and you're back in the room
-
While your on jon I'm needing to get my chainline right (its meant to be 50mm do you have any calipers as I'm not talking to Norton now he's busted me.
-
how did it *go off* in the first place?
I've never used calipers..
- insert injury joke here -
IIRC you have a ISIS BB so changing that is unlikely to alter anything.. more likely you have a dodgy / not set up right front mech.
search bikemagic.com site for mechanical knowledge on mech setup, far easier to sort that way than explain over a forum.
sounds like Norton has really screwed yr bike up...
or did you take advice from *that* shop...
i did warn you :wall:
-
how did it *go off* in the first place?
I've never used calipers..
- insert injury joke here -
IIRC you have a ISIS BB so changing that is unlikely to alter anything.. more likely you have a dodgy / not set up right front mech.
search bikemagic.com site for mechanical knowledge on mech setup, far easier to sort that way than explain over a forum.
sounds like Norton has really screwed yr bike up...
or did you take advice from *that* shop...
i did warn you :wall:
No, its not gone off, what it is is that the new hollow tech bb I fitted with the crank is suitable for both 68 and 73mm casings. Mine is 68 so I need to use all the spacers that come with the bb the standard I believe is to use two on the drive side and one on the off I just wanted to check that this combo does indeed give me a chainline of 50mm.
As far as I can tell everything's fine so far
-
I'm presuming you have 3 rings on the front as per the norm for that bike.
You will indeed need to space out that BB.
I hope its a big S one, coz the raceface X type ones are a 'mare to get a correct chain line on.. and you have to wind the cracks off every time you change a spacer.. took me 3 hrs to sort out my Demo, I cried.
You describe a reasonable spacer combo...
if the mech is working fine... leave it alone!!
I have the pleasure of trying to fit an e- 13 srs to a frame this eve, now that is hell on earth.. good job it's onto a 83 mm shell with a real tight fit before a pivot with a 150mm rear hub... with an x type bb.
arse.
-
I av never fitted achain device withou incident...
Tonight no exception. To be fair I damn near got it in a oner.
But, the spider off my dual ring don't fit the e-13.
Nu cranks are called for..
Omfg, they've gone up a bit!!!
Cheapo raceface ride dh it is then!
I've got a few spare rings and a drs with saint bottom pull front meach with SRAM shifter goin cheap if anyone wants a dual ring setup up front going for a song if you interested..
-
New hope rear with cassette on new drive chain on, just the chain to fit and a bit (hope) of indexing and the bike is go. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Thanks for all the help. Fat and Norton.
-
Took the bike out today for the first time, it stayed in one piece and worked really well. I'm begining to get the hang of this bike mechanicing.
-
The drop in Graves will be finished tomorrow night, 6ft face to a very well constructed(moved 1 ft forward, widened and the angle slackened for your info bubbs) should be well fun
[/quote]
Finally got to the park tonight with the bike and did this. Good effort on the landing, it rides well.
Have you been building the little kickers too? The one after the drop's good fun.
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:-[
all part of the service.
more no doubt on the way.
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Any idea how to fix this or will I need a whole new wheel :P
(http://slack.ser.man.ac.uk/files/pics/10092009648.jpg)
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go on...
give us the details...!
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go on...
give us the details...!
See here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8473.msg218280.html#msg218280) for info :thumbsdown:
Ache a bit this morning >:(
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Any idea how to fix this or will I need a whole new wheel :P
(http://slack.ser.man.ac.uk/files/pics/10092009648.jpg)
Taking the reflector off would be a good start.
The technical way is to hold the wheel on the opposite side to the dent and then twat the dent on the floor as hard as you can. No really. Its called stress relieving. If that fails buy a new rim
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I was thinking of using the head of the twat who knocked me off to bash it against. Would that be as effective?
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right then mtb people. what does dual pull mean in this case:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19204 (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19204)
i want a cheap front gear for deore tripple mtb chain set that the cable pulls from below. will this do both?
do all of mtb ones pull from both directions? (i have one that is rigged with the cable from above, but will it work on my new bike where it must pull from below).
cheers
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yah,you are correct inthat it can be rigged to be pulled from above or below. No, not all mechs do this but this is usually specified in the blurb.
Slack line, that wheels fucked, i personally wouldnt bother and charge the fecker for a full new wheel build
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Slack line, that wheels fucked, i personally wouldnt bother and charge the fecker for a full new wheel build
Yeah, I kind of figured that, got a new one t'other day, just got to work out how to get the disc from the disc brake off and transferred to the new wheel. :-\ Looks like I need some special tool, but may just be lazy and take it to a shop.
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Any idea how to fix this or will I need a whole new wheel :P
(http://slack.ser.man.ac.uk/files/pics/10092009648.jpg)
18 bikes wheel rebuild IMO
i have wheels from them that have stayed round for nearly a year so far.... minor miracle!
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Yeah, I kind of figured that, got a new one t'other day, just got to work out how to get the disc from the disc brake off and transferred to the new wheel. :-\ Looks like I need some special tool, but may just be lazy and take it to a shop.
It'll most likely be a torx head if its not an allen key, kind of like an allen bolt head but pointier. I've got one that should fit - easier and cheaper than a shop. PM me if you want to borrow it.
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(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/the_third_eye/LHT.jpg)
here it is boys! current work in progress, but i have hit a brick wall. i bought one front Derailleur, but like an idiot i got the wrong clampsize.
i wont make that error again!
but...the cage that picks up the chain i think will also cause me some problems (i think). are there two different cage sizes? what i think i now need is this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40545 (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40545) but should i go for one if i can find with a more slender cage??? - worried that this one will bang into the BB shell. the clamp is in a different place on the one i just linked to (above rather than parallel to - maybe that is the problem).
arrrrgggghhh help i have no clue with these mtb parts!
cheers, (sorry for all the future whittering posts).
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you need Norton
:shrug:
I'm not sure, apart from a shim bodge
BTW, that's not a MTB
you sikko
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Yeah, I kind of figured that, got a new one t'other day, just got to work out how to get the disc from the disc brake off and transferred to the new wheel. :-\ Looks like I need some special tool, but may just be lazy and take it to a shop.
It'll most likely be a torx head if its not an allen key, kind of like an allen bolt head but pointier. I've got one that should fit - easier and cheaper than a shop. PM me if you want to borrow it.
Only just clocked this, sorry. Have some pics, will try and find time to post tomorrow. Thought my friend had the right size piece and whilst the diameter was good, the size of the notches wasn't (that won't make much sense till I post the pics though).
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BTW, that's not a MTB
but you still want one! (it weighs a fucking ton) going to get some lighter tyers (marathons).
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i need to replace the middle and granny rings on current chainset (race face). i've been told to get middleburn. anyone have any opinions on what's good or should be avoided?
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I've heard great things about the new Renthal stuff...
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interesting, didn't know you could get em yet. article in Dirt about Renthal last month.
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not too sure on this bling chain ring stuff..
I'd get raceface... taken ages to wear em out
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went with middleburn hardcoat, and slick shift in the middle. plus new cassette and chain = silky drivetrain at the moment. not sure how long it will last...
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I need to get a new spring for my Kona before next weekend's DH action. Any idea where to get one?
TF Tuned have got some fancy BOS ones for £45. Wiggle and CRC don't seem to have any at all!
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Job done.
I'm keen for one.
Hurry, the post seems to be slow at the moment
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Just seen this. Middleburn last well John, much better than Shimano anyway's.
Renthal kit should be good based on motorbike experience.
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my surly long haul trucker is finished...i love it. :kiss2:
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/the_third_eye/LHT2.jpg)
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/the_third_eye/LHT1.jpg)
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i'd like to stick some 2.3 tyres on the bike. i don't think i can go bigger with clearance. i've been very happy with the WTB Weirwolf 2.1s and they do a 2.3 but i wondered if anyone had any other recommendations?
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Maxxis High Rollers without a doubt. Kevlar beaded should do you but get the softer compound if you want ridiculous grip or 60a harder compound for longevity.
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Maxxis High Rollers without a doubt. Kevlar beaded should do you but get the softer compound if you want ridiculous grip or 60a harder compound for longevity.
Nevangels without a doubt.
Better than High Rollers, they are more progressive when sliding out... also come in various compund options. I run 2.35 on back of AM & DH bike... super soft & 2.5 ojn DH front. I would go back to High Rollers now.
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Hi all money spending time, maybe... I have seen some Pike 456's for 350 sheets. They have 95 - 140 travel. Now two things:
1 my current forks are Manitou blacks with 90-120 travel will the extra travel fuck up my geometry?
2 Are Pikes any good?
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Nevangels without a doubt.
I would go back to High Rollers now.
;D
eh? get your story straight. is that a yes to high rollers then, or a no?
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Intense Edge FRO Lite
I have these on my AM bike and they're great...
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you wouldn't believe how many different tyres i've been recommended by different people in the last few hours....
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eh? get your story straight. is that a yes to high rollers then, or a no?
This coming from a medical professional. I quake.
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you wouldn't believe how many different tyres i've been recommended by different people in the last few hours....
Well, I feel compelled to pile on the agony. Get yourself some Specialised John. I'm a big fan of the Captains and the Purgatorys look good too. Been using Spesh tyres for a couple of years and I loves them.....
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Hi all money spending time, maybe... I have seen some Pike 456's for 350 sheets. They have 95 - 140 travel. Now two things:
1 my current forks are Manitou blacks with 90-120 travel will the extra travel fuck up my geometry?
2 Are Pikes any good?
What are you riding Joe? I went from 130 Manitou Black on my Scott MC50 to 145 Nixons and it was a major improvement. Slackened the head angle a bit and stopped the bike being so twitchy. Doesn't mean it'll dio the samd for you obviously, hence my original question. How's your current rig ride?
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:-[
sorry..
typo.
i wouldnnnnnntt go back to high rollers now..
those intenses are OK, esp in mud.
all round tyre.. nevangels. word.
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I'm riding Nevagals now despite the High Roller recommendation. Will be going straight back to High Rollers. To be fair they are both good sets of tyres and I've no real complaints regarding the Nevagals except that they don't slide out as progressively as the High Rollers. I reckon me and the 'Doc need to go for a sliding session :goodidea:
I also liked Schwalbe Fat Alberts. But got them given to me and wouldn't pay that much for them.
I hate Spec tyres, but there you go. You pays your money, and gets punctures.
If you're going for some fatter tyres consider getting some wider rims. They make a huge difference to the way the tyre performs and prevent the tyre rolling off the rim, especially if you run low pressures. DT 5.1's come recommended.
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decided to give high rollers a blast, despite other recommendations (minions, big earls...). hopefully they'll be here for the weekend as i might even ride my bike and not climb. blasphemy.
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p.s. i should say thanks to people for the feedback/advice too. as ever, plenty of it. nice one.
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I'm riding Nevagals now despite the High Roller recommendation. Will be going straight back to High Rollers. To be fair they are both good sets of tyres and I've no real complaints regarding the Nevagals except that they don't slide out as progressively as the High Rollers. I reckon me and the 'Doc need to go for a sliding session :goodidea:
I also liked Schwalbe Fat Alberts. But got them given to me and wouldn't pay that much for them.
I hate Spec tyres, but there you go. You pays your money, and gets punctures.
If you're going for some fatter tyres consider getting some wider rims. They make a huge difference to the way the tyre performs and prevent the tyre rolling off the rim, especially if you run low pressures. DT 5.1's come recommended.
5.1s are the narrowesrt rims I'd ever use. quality XC / AM rim
there aint no better.
FBSF swears by fat alberts...
I can see why.
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Hi all money spending time, maybe... I have seen some Pike 456's for 350 sheets. They have 95 - 140 travel. Now two things:
1 my current forks are Manitou blacks with 90-120 travel will the extra travel fuck up my geometry?
2 Are Pikes any good?
What are you riding Joe? I went from 130 Manitou Black on my Scott MC50 to 145 Nixons and it was a major improvement. Slackened the head angle a bit and stopped the bike being so twitchy. Doesn't mean it'll dio the samd for you obviously, hence my original question. How's your current rig ride?
Its an '04 Enduro. It currently rides way better than I do. The extra travel will as I read it slacken the head angle at full extension and tighten it up at the other end. The question is for a given head angle what is the maximum ridable fork height? I realise in asking this that to some extent this is personal but there must be maximums and minimums.
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I hate Spec tyres, but there you go. You pays your money, and gets punctures.
Must be the way you ride Norton old chap. I haven't had a puncture in months - ride like a butterfly, crash like a bastard, that's me............
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It currently rides way better than I do. [/quote]
Bloody hell, don't they all Joe!! :lol:
Don't know about max and min fork heights, I'm guessing it's very much down to personal taste. From my experience, I'd say go for it. Friend of mine's just bought some Pikes and put them on his Orange P7 - loves it. They're adjustable, so you can play around until you get the right 'feel'. And after all, it's only money and your bike is the most important thing in your life, isn't it?
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I hate Spec tyres, but there you go. You pays your money, and gets punctures.
Must be the way you ride Norton old chap. I haven't had a puncture in months - ride like a butterfly, crash like a bastard, that's me............
First puncture in 18 months on Monday. Picture the scene; me, staring blankly at wheel, spare tube, tyre levers and pump........
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Hi all money spending time, maybe... I have seen some Pike 456's for 350 sheets. They have 95 - 140 travel. Now two things:
1 my current forks are Manitou blacks with 90-120 travel will the extra travel fuck up my geometry?
2 Are Pikes any good?
What are you riding Joe? I went from 130 Manitou Black on my Scott MC50 to 145 Nixons and it was a major improvement. Slackened the head angle a bit and stopped the bike being so twitchy. Doesn't mean it'll dio the samd for you obviously, hence my original question. How's your current rig ride?
Its an '04 Enduro. It currently rides way better than I do. The extra travel will as I read it slacken the head angle at full extension and tighten it up at the other end. The question is for a given head angle what is the maximum ridable fork height? I realise in asking this that to some extent this is personal but there must be maximums and minimums.
20mm additional travel will feel different, but not enough to be seriously detrimental to your bike's handling, probably. 33% or so of that 20mm will get used up in sag (the amount the forks drop when you sit on the bike) so the front will only be 10mm or so higher than previously having taken into account the sag and the head angle - you don't add 20mm of height by adding a 20mm longer fork. You may want to get a new stem or bars to reduce that back to get the same ride position with the added benefit of spending more dosh on your steed :goodidea:
An '04 bike is likely to have a slacker head angle than a modern bike anyway so upping the fork length by 20mm should be fine. The question is whether the frame welds can take the extra load imposed. You'll soon know whether this is the case or not :'(
I've got an old set of 130mm Vanilla's you are welcome to bang onto the bike to try. As usual installation costs could be repaid in the Rising Sun :pissed:
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any one got any views on the hand built wheels that chain reaction cycles turn out??
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Hi all money spending time, maybe... I have seen some Pike 456's for 350 sheets. They have 95 - 140 travel. Now two things:
1 my current forks are Manitou blacks with 90-120 travel will the extra travel fuck up my geometry?
2 Are Pikes any good?
What are you riding Joe? I went from 130 Manitou Black on my Scott MC50 to 145 Nixons and it was a major improvement. Slackened the head angle a bit and stopped the bike being so twitchy. Doesn't mean it'll dio the samd for you obviously, hence my original question. How's your current rig ride?
Its an '04 Enduro. It currently rides way better than I do. The extra travel will as I read it slacken the head angle at full extension and tighten it up at the other end. The question is for a given head angle what is the maximum ridable fork height? I realise in asking this that to some extent this is personal but there must be maximums and minimums.
20mm additional travel will feel different, but not enough to be seriously detrimental to your bike's handling, probably. 33% or so of that 20mm will get used up in sag (the amount the forks drop when you sit on the bike) so the front will only be 10mm or so higher than previously having taken into account the sag and the head angle - you don't add 20mm of height by adding a 20mm longer fork. You may want to get a new stem or bars to reduce that back to get the same ride position with the added benefit of spending more dosh on your steed :goodidea:
An '04 bike is likely to have a slacker head angle than a modern bike anyway so upping the fork length by 20mm should be fine. The question is whether the frame welds can take the extra load imposed. You'll soon know whether this is the case or not :'(
I've got an old set of 130mm Vanilla's you are welcome to bang onto the bike to try. As usual installation costs could be repaid in the Rising Sun :pissed:
I shall take you up on that Norton. I'll see how she runs with the longer forks and then make an informed purchasing descision.
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I'd go for the 32 vans..
I've broken every set of air Pikes I've had.. fair weather forks. ( 3 sets in as many months IIRC)
coil pikes are awesome.. but noticably heavy. I have a set unserviced for 4 years.. work fine!
Coli forks work better, feel better and if you tolerate the weight you'll get a bargain of norton... however factor in a quality service to your budget.
only air adjust forks i'd consider are Fox Talas.. which have sky rocketed in price and are rarely seen for sale second hand.. unlike Pikes.
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I've broken every set of air Pikes I've had.. fair weather forks. ( 3 sets in as many months IIRC)
coil pikes are awesome.. but noticably heavy. I have a set unserviced for 4 years.. work fine!
Coli forks work better, feel better and if you tolerate the weight you'll get a bargain of norton... however factor in a quality service to your budget.
I've not used air Pikes but my coil ones are going fine after at least 2 years fairly constant use with no servicing so would echo the Doc's recommendation for coilers.
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And another reason we all like coil sprung front ends is that with a linear spring rate the front end doesn't dive as much on initial compression effectively holding up the front end so you are less likely to go over the bars due to the dive. (Forget this if you own Talas allegedly 'linear' air springs).
Would Mr Picalli and Mr Barker please form an orderly queue for testing.
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Talas. ESP the 2008 and even better the 2009 ones don't dive like other air forks. By god you pay for it mind..
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anyone got any particular brake recommendations? i'm getting hacked off with mine (hayes nines) and LBS seem to think trying to sort them is more hassle than it's worth. they're no good for endos. no good.
shimano saint any good? hope? avid? my riding style is basically flashdance fused with mc hammer shit, if that helps.
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Shimano Saint's on my DH bike are exceptional, but they've been on for a few years now and are the old 2 pot versions. Even for a fat lad like me in the alps, they were still fine for 1 finger braking near the bottom of runs (203mm front rotor). Extremely low maintenance requirements and don't bind/seize/need bleeding anywhere near as much as the Hayes on the Chameleon)
Not tried the newer 4 pots but they sound good (http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/disc-brake-systems/product/saint-brake-09-32292).
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I second Bubba's call on the Saints. Mate of mine's got them and rates them. In fact, any shimano brakes as far as I'm concerned - I've had a set of bog standard Shimano Deore on mine for five years. Easiest brakes in the world to bleed, no maintenance issues and they work. Compare that to my missus experience with Avid's, (two different versions of the 5's) which have been a nightmare............
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norton & I use Hopes.. so does fbsf.
I hve destroyed them ( as near all else) in the past.. however the rebuild on Hopes is well easy.
the new v2s have the best lever adjust / never going to rip the lever off & spill oil design out there. I recently combined them with Hope Ti 6 calipers.. most modular brake I've ever used. Not like hayes / avids.. not on / off.
recommended, esp with your 18bikes discount ;)
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groovy. i'm going to spend a bit of time educating myself but hope or shimano do seem to be the way to go...