UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: csl on December 23, 2013, 11:16:13 pm
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The previous lists:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Aims for 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21363.0.html)
General
Regular training - join a London climbing club to increase opportunities to get out.
Prioritise climbing outside over drinking/working!
Sport
Get out to Portland/Swanage/Brean Down/Anstey's Cove
Climb 7c's/7c+
Go to a new sport climbing holiday destination, El Chorro, Rodellar, Kalymnos.
Trad
Onsight some more classic E4's.
Onsight E5
Get out to Swanage/Sharpnose/Pembroke.
(rollover from last year) do Wall of the World, Right Wall and some other classic E5's.
Bouldering
Check out SS bouldering...
Climb a font 7a+/V7 outside.
Climb a font 7b/V8 outside.
Other
3.15 Marathon
(rollover from last year) Climb Freeborn Man
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Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:
- Dolomites
- Oberreintal
- elsewhere in Alps e.g. Ecrins
- UK trad excursion
Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring then get on a 7a. But also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s
When I did a coaching day with Calum Muskett back in the summer, he asked my what my long term goal is in climbing. To which I said I'm not bothered about redpointing 8a, but I'd like to be able to onsight 6b all day in the mountains. At the moment I'm nowhere near even consistently onsighting safely bolted 6b on tame little sport crags, and sport climbing is fun and the 'jura is lovely, so I'll happily focus on grade chasing there for a while. Meanwhile build up mileage/confidence/experience on some longer things around the 6a-ish level when I do get to the mountains.
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Some of these are a hangover from this year due to not doing trad since Aug and a complicated lovelife. I'm unsure whether to rent the house out from mid summer and head off in the van and as such targets are hard to set.
Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it.
Loose some more weight - 75kg (78/79kg lately)
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc.
Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year.
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday)
Indoors V5
Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love :chair:
Get some more E1s
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy)
Consolidate VS and HVS
Sport
Onsight 6b
Actually redpoint something :'(
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Seems a good topic for my first post :wave:
Boulder - 7B+
Sport - 7c
Trad - try some E5s ground up
Some specific climbs - West Side Story, T crack, Suavito, Nosferatu, Strapadictomy, Jerrys roof, Ressurection
Trips - Bouldering in Fontainebleau and Torridon, sport climbing in Turkey
and look after my tendons
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To have less injuries than this year.
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs
Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6?
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says
Do well in uni
Remain uninjured
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8A
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Couple of 7c's, get into sport climbing, go to the lakes! I don't ask for much.....
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Short term
Get the super secret project done
Maintain current level while moving to new house and starting new job
Go to font over Easter
Medium term
OS 20 E5s over the summer season
HP/ground up some E6s: A38, Bold as Love, Crimson Dynamo, A magenta Smudge
Consolidate at 7c+/8a: stuff at Brean, Academic, stuff at cheddar, Smashing of Amps
Climb at Avon Gorge and Trym Valley
Long term
Repeat local hard boulder problems: stuff at Ladye bay, Tombstone, Gollum's cave (if i can stomach it!), stuff at Huntsham
HP some E7s
Repeat some of the harder sport routes: Brean Topping, Shadow Walker, The Milky Bar Kid
Tick all of the routes at Brean logged on UKC
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Take at least a month off at the beginning of the year to heal elbows, and then:
Training
Do stretches at least 4 times a week to improve flexibility.
Manage a decent one arm front lever.
Monos on all fingers on Beastmaker.
Increase lock-off strength considerably.
Train shoulder and tricep strength with press-ups, gymnast rings etc.
Don't get injured.
Bouldering
Get in some mileage on 7As and above, say:- 50 7As
- 40 7A+s
- 30 7Bs
- 20 7B+s
- 10 7Cs (including maybe 2 on granite?)
Do an 8A. (possibly Snatch?)
Take a trip to Font or Switzerland.
Flash a 7B+.
Podium in a comp.
Life
Don't mess up school.
Learn more Chinese.
Actually play the violin.
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Bouldering:
Roofism Tick List
Work on eatswood Traverse
Bens Roof
Sport
Weedkiller (route)
Out of My Boots
Climb an 8a in 2 halfs
Trad
Climb at least 3 pitches of trad.
General
Climb in another country.
Improve footwork.
Climb v9 indoors.
Climb a v7 roof problem in font.
Other
Get an over-all first in 2nd year of uni.
Find an acoustics internship
Get down to racing weight 64.7kg
Sort out my finances
Swap my Landrover for a van.
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STG: dull numerical shite
MTG: slightly larger numerical shite
LTG: even larger numerical shite
Dunno yet. Will think on it.
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1. Most important. Getting to know a girl I met at the gym better, because WOW :wub:
2. Working on my weaknesses such as slopers/open hand in general (small hands), pinches, PE, ...
If 1&2, then:
3. More consistent climbing font7A.
4. Flashing french7a.
5. More consistent climbing french7b+.
6. Doing this all together with her on lovely trips abroad. :please:
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1. Finish off Tourniquet
2. Finish of AOSD
3. Get on Jason's Roof
4. Get a graduate engineering job
5. Get a woody, get stronger.
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1. Most important. Getting to know a girl I met at the gym better, because WOW :wub:
2. Working on my weaknesses such as slopers/open hand in general (small hands), pinches, PE, ...
Uh HUH, that all related then? ;)
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Yeah Fiend,
We are all the same in some ways, going :lets_do_it_wild:
But still, I wanna do alot more with that girl, so please be nice. Happy New Year, we all hope. :punk:
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Run an ultra.
Do something with a 7 in it.
Move in with missus.
Get a distinction for my masters diss.
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1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year...
2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+.
3. Put up at least 100 new problems.
4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing.
5. V7 in the Grampians.
6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg.
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be a good dad
manage niggles, avoid new ones
stay under 70kg
climb somewhere new abroad
8A
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1. Get my Tally of 7C's up to 75
2. Do Zoo York, carried over from last year
3. Aim to do 10 8A's
4. 8A+, A long shot......
5. Attempt to do more sport climbing
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1. Get my swollen knee/leg fixed as it is currently like the limb of an elephant.
2. Get Louis Armstrong done.
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- Become a solid 7A/B climber (method: Try harder in the gym , stop being a puss)
- Become a solid 7a/b climber (method: mileage -- get better at arranging belays and trips)
- One arm pullup
- Two chicks at the same time
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Rollover time again!
1. Use the board at least once a week.
2. Boulder 7C or harder.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after two years of not visiting.
4. Do some trad with Nik at Work.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists.
6. Run another hill marathon or two.
7. Find some new rock and do a good FA.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights
9. 7b in Font
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100
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:punk:
4. Do some trad with Nik at Work.
FUCK YEAH! :2thumbsup:
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Sport Ten 7th grade routes
Bouldering Ten 7th grade problems
Trad Twenty E-points
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Eat loads of shit.
Don't do The Ace.
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4. Do some trad with Nik at Work.
FUCK YEAH! :2thumbsup:
I'll need to add in 3a, buy a harness.
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1. Arrive for my week in Font in Feb uninjured.
2. Climb 7a on a regular basis rather than just once a year - maybe start projecting something a bit harder.
3. Get below 13 and a half stone.
4. Climb in North Wales more.
5. Go to Torridon.
6. Catch a 20lb carp :fishing:
7. Do some fly fishing.
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Redpoint 8a
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Trad
Climb E2 regularly
Climb E3
HP E4/5
Climb more route than last year
Sport
Onsight 6c or harder
Climb 7b again or harder
Bouldering
7A
Other stuff.
Put up a FA on isle of man
Dolphin belly slap
Climb in 4 different countries
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Rough chronological order:
1. Climb some more grit routes this winter.
2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January.
3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn.
4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn.
5. Move to Manchester / Peak area.
6. If successful, climb some cool routes in Wales / South West.
7. Get weight below 12 stone in spring.
8. Keep doing falling practise.
9. Keep training CV at gym and micro-runs.
10. --- to be added later ---
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Gollum's Cave (if i can stomach it!)
I went for a walk to check it out the other day and I'm never going back. Does anyone actually climb there any more? Seems a bit intrusive when there are squatters living in a tent there....
PM me if you have trouble getting belays on any of those routes btw, think they're all on my hit list as well!
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8. Keep doing falling practise.
9. Keep training CV at gym and micro-runs.
10. --- to be added later ---
10. Practise the difference between "practise" and "practice"?
;)
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Aims: there's no point putting down grade related goals as I'll spend all year chasing them anyway. So, less numeric goals:
The Quarryman.
Do as many of the things on my current list of unclimbed projects as possible. Think of good names (or bad puns) for them. Go exploring, and find rock that would actually be worth cleaning/climbing. Climb it.
F8a on trad gear.
Try hard-for-me multipitch sport routes, in Chorro/Verdon.
Catch up with High Repute on 8a.nu bouldering. Stay ahead on routes. :boxing:
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1. Boulder 8B (one of two local projects that I've been trying off and on since 1999)
2. Mandala (next fall?)
3. Crow Pass Marathon in Sub 5hr (July)
4. More days outside than 2013
5. Bolt and climb some new routes hopefully in the 8a-8b range :)
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Catch up with Hugh Reputon on 8a.nu bouldering. Stay ahead on routes. :boxing:
That's fighting talk :boxing:
Are we doubling the wager?
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I love that smiley! Sounds good, I believe that's 2 pints now then. :)
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Malc's Arete
Malc's Arete
Malc's Arete
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I love that smiley! Sounds good, I believe that's 2 pints now then. :)
Pretty sure it's 4 now. You're obviously worried and trying to get out of the extra 2 pints already :chair: :icon_beerchug:
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- Climb 8A+
- consolidate 8A
- valiantly attempt an 8B
- finish of some nemeses (i.e. don't fall off the top of berezina again)
- Make it to Magic Wood
- Go somewhere new
- one armer on little crimp on beastmaker
- get flexibility back!
- at least a reasonable 2.1 for the year
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The last two years have been a real rollercoaster and for the first time I ages I feel settled. So......
- Lose a stone
- Pass my bike test and buy a good bike
- Have a really good trip to the Ments with GME and the lads
- Go climbing
- Do some music thing
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a) Liverpool International Festival of Psychedelia - looked great this year - or b) some hippy festival, or both.
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Gollum's Cave (if i can stomach it!)
I went for a walk to check it out the other day and I'm never going back. Does anyone actually climb there any more? Seems a bit intrusive when there are squatters living in a tent there....
With a sales pitch like that I could hardly not visit now.
PM me if you have trouble getting belays on any of those routes btw, think they're all on my hit list as well!
Will do, thanks for the offer :)
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Climb outside more than once a month.
Climb an established boulder that's harder than 7A.
Climb an established sport route that's harder than 7a.
Climb more Trad routes than sport
Climb someone else's adventure route, preferably George Smith's.
Resist the lure of trying new routes.
Reduce feeding the rat to a few new boulders, but climb more established ones than new.
Maybe allow the odd newbie highball....http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/giveaway-project-of-month-july.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/giveaway-project-of-month-july.html)
Have Fun!
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Some wildly optimistic aims for 2014...
(Finally) climb working class (and the SS too hopefully)
Avoid getting injured (this is where I failed badly in 2013)
Do an 8B
Learn how to use my feet
Get decent enough exam results to get into an ok uni
Read more
Go to font/swiss/somewhere like that
Get some stamina and climb something at the anvil (body blow??)
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i'd be really happy realizing just a single one of the following:
-Bouldering: 8A in font or 7C outside of my local area (esp. on granite) or flashing 7C
-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... or onsighting 7c
-Trad: safe crack route in between 7c and 8a (Annot/Orco/Cadarese), or 7a OW, or UK E6, or a US trip.
-Multipitch. Any big wall (more than 500 meters and mostly on gear). Or free climbing/onsighting one shorter "route i used to dream about" in Verdon, Bavella, Mt Blanc massif, Wenden, Ratikon, etc...
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move to a big house in S11
lose a couple of stone
stop whining about testicle, ankle, finger, back, toe or knee pain
do something climbing related every week even if it means going indoors
go bouldering with others
7C
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Chronologically:
1.) On sight multiple 7a’s during Kalymnos trip (April)
2.) Trad: Consistently on sight at E3 during summer. Including specifically Prana (E3 5c) at Black Crag, Borrowdale – proper E3 and one which I have been meaning to do for years.
3.) Sport: Redpoint Marlina (7c) at Dunkeld.
4.) Big Wall: The Nose or The Triple Direct on El Cap.
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1. The project
2. Light Weight
3. Gaskins Pill Box problem from standup (note this will roll over to every subsequent year of my life though could walk feet flush to kicker in position for a long time. Next step the pullon).
A year of solid focus.
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After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused.
-Rays Roof, so psyched for this :boxing:
-Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)
-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope
-Pass all my law exams! :smartass:
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Go climbing
lose weight
finish DIY on the house
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Go climbing
lose weight
finish DIY on the house
Comeback year PregnantHorse, I wanna see you pump some stone
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2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January.
3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn.
4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn.
Nice set of non-lime Euro destinations.
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back-scuttle a pregnant armadillo
threesome with ginger dwarves
elbow a giraffe in the uterus
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elbow a giraffe in the uterus
aiming high, I see
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Hey lagers that's cheating. Number 1 on your list is basically a done deal.
I like your style though. Guarantees at least one tick....
;-)
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Aims this year, a little up in the air regarding budget/partners/time allowed at the moment, but looking good for having at least 6 weeks free in the summer, so should be game on! This year was pretty successful, in particular I ticked a load of trad routes that I would previously have been scared off of, made it past 100 E points for the year today without actually making a goal of it.
Trad: Onsight E4 consistently and get up a few major E5s onsight (Positron, Right Wall, Supersonic). Get back to Pembroke for a long weekend (only did 4 routes there this year). Headpoint a grit E6 (candidates, Wall of Sound, Salmon Left Hand, Slackers).
Sport: Flash 7b, redpoint 8a before I'm 30 (18 months). Think I'm good for both of these, just need to get the mileage and train carefully, specifically power and finger strength for 8a.
Make a training log to aid progress on this.
Life: Finish PGCE successfully. Decide where I want to live!
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Keep it simple this year.
1. Not get injured.
2. Boulder 7A
3. Sport 7b+
4. Trad E3
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Hey lagers that's cheating. Number 1 on your list is basically a done deal.
I like your style though. Guarantees at least one tick....
;-)
meh
might end up in a shed in Maltby
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Go climbing
lose weight
finish DIY on the house
fucking amen to that brother, got out for first time in 3 months yesterday.
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Bouldering:
Do more problems at 7B+ and 7C
Sport:
Take up proper sport climbing and actually redpoint some stuff.
Trad:
Use the above to do trad better. Continue to get on stuff that I want to do.
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Flower Power before end March (final move is swiftly moving towards 1 in 100!), what a sandbag.
Get solid at 7a
Clash Arête before end of Summer
First 7b (Optimus Prime or Deadheads Direct)
Get Squelch put to bed and have one full session on Malc’s
Have a weekend in Torridon, one day hits from Aberdeen just don’t do it justice
Sell all my Aid Gear
Retire the Whopper and replace with a Dominator
A few rules which I held to this year and will roll-over:
Get out at least once a week
Don’t go anywhere near an indoor climbing wall
No chuffing at all
Nae booze (5 years sober as of tomorrow)
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- Start climbing again after finger nonsense
- Get back into some sport routes (back to 7bish again)
- Better or equal previous bouldering best of V7 (7a+)
- Sort money out
- Sack off business and do something meaningful with life rather than tread water until an early booze induced death
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2014 will be a bit different, as I'm leaving the UK in August for a 10 month 'round the world' trip with my girlfriend (YYFY). So I'm only setting goals up to August, beyond then will be a mix of climbing / travelling (and almost certainly no training). I'd like to be in the best possible shape by then to make the most of it.
- Get back to max sport fitness. Aim to start this immediately
- Be more structured / disciplined with training, use time at the wall more efficiently
- Stretch more
- Tick off some local projects - academic, high 7's at ban-y-gor, high 7's at witches point, some more 7's from my cheddar wishlist and a local 8a.
- A bit ambitious perhaps, but would love to redpoint an 8b and onsight a 7c
- Get consistent at 7b onsight
- Get to some of the local-ish crags that I've been meaning to visit for ages - ansteys, dinas rock, torbyran
- Stay uninjured
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Stop getting so damn injured
Redpoint 9a
Onsight/flash 8b
Progress
Bat Route
Hajj
Burn Will off on the wave
Burn Stu off on the wave
Find a new way to piss off large sections of the climbing community :P
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Trad: Right Wall
Sport: More at 7c and find a good 7c+
Bouldering: 7B (again)
Life: Buy house and finish short grit film
Happy New year UKBunting
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20 hours and 40 minutes in and I still haven't ticked anything off my list despite posting on here. Can I get a refund?
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Cease to be injured.
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Bouldering: Smash out some more 7C's
Sport: Bag myslef a short tecky f8a
Trad: Always fancied 'Master of Reality' up Hen Cloud but prob still dont have the balls!
DWS: Need to finish off 'Afroman' at Diablo (puntered off the last hold) Get better at swimming!
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Life:
Lose the 2 inches I've gained since November
Get new job
Get married without bankrupting self
Bouldering:
Tick a 7a indoors
Tick 5x 6b's outdoors
Related to the above, go outdoors more
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1. As always try not to get injured.
2. Good few long weekends camping in Font in the spring. (If winter doesn't just turn into summer like 2013).
3. Still plenty of places I've never visited to tick off in Font. Gorge du houx, Cuvier reconaissance, les mammouths etc etc.
4. Grades wise any 6 in Font, 6C Indoors.
5. Highly optimistic week in the Peak on May, missus has already said 'no', we'll see!
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Non-climbing
1. Sort out the workshop properly
2. Start producing and shifting
3. Lose half a stone
4. try to work away a bit less
Climbing
1. Climb a Lancashire 7a
2. Get on the board at least twice a week even if only for an hour each time.
3. Clean up and FA some new lines, even if easy.
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1. Make a training plan and stick to it.
2. Organise half a dozen trips abroad, at least one Kaly and two Font.
3. Get most of my Yorkshire Limestone projects done.
4. Spend time on my County project....
5. Have some fun trad if the summer is nice in the UK.
6. Have lots of fun, enjoy good company and being on the rock.
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Climbing
1. Climb a Lancashire 7a
2. Get on the board at least twice a week even if only for an hour each time.
3. Clean up and FA some new lines, even if easy.
C'mon pasty, get on wi' it.
You need to come round for a board session sometime.
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Climbing
1. Climb a Lancashire 7a
2. Get on the board at least twice a week even if only for an hour each time.
3. Clean up and FA some new lines, even if easy.
C'mon pasty, get on wi' it.
You need to come round for a board session sometime.
I know... :shrug:
Let's get a board meeting organised in the next couple of weeks, you will undoubtedly burn me off!! :strongbench: you know I have a fear of success...
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The 2013 aim was to redpoint 8a, which I managed in September, but this was a major siege and numerous times I felt the year would have been better spent doing some quicker redpoints on 7b/7b+ territory.
So this year..
Sport - More mileage, with relatively quick redpoints in the 7a-7C. Target to redpoint 5 7C's (including Valley of the Blind @cheddar & El Chocco @brean).
Do Empire of the Sun @Ansteys
Bloc - Another 7b, not sure what or where though
Trad - limited time (small kids) means I think I'll focus on the above instead..
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Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen….
Climbing:
Font 7c – The Goal, anything else is a nice to have.
30 new 7s (new to me, not new problems)
Tick the problems on The List
E5
7c
Orion Face Direct (depends on whether conditions coincide with an opportunity to get to Scotland)
Running:
Highlander MM - Top three in Class
Saunders MM - Win Class
Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half
General:
Write a training plan and stick to it.
One arm pull-up (both arms)
Ski another gully on the Ben (Tower Gully?)
Get below 13st.
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STG (call this up til end of May; font and america trip completed):
Bouldering - early doors, the fin sit, baldstones traverse, eaglestone, try entropy's jaw.
Roped - get back on a rope indoors. Try and lead ~7a at redpoint in brum.
Training - Do some more pseudo training; continue with stretching and stamina as making some good gains here. Must start doing core again and try to use board, campus rungs, fingerboard a bit more.
LTG (not too sure about thee ones yet, will update as think about it more but this is my first go at this so...meh!):
Boulder - 7B
Roped - long mountain route type day out thing with brother?
sport - 7b? Empire of the Sun, Anstey's Cove
yosemite wall malham?
sport climbing trip to europe?
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Routes:
Statement of Youth; The Cider Soak and Shadow Walker
Boulders:
The Joker
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Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen….
Ski another gully on the Ben (Tower Gully?)
Amen to the first, give me a shout if you make it up for the second. Ben isn't ideal, but could get there. I've got my eye on a line or two in Glencoe too.
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2013 was my worst climbing year yet. The various injuries are nearly fixed though so looking forward to getting back at it.
1) Get back to E3 at Fair Head
2) Get to 7B
3) Solo an El Cap route in October
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1) Font 7C+.
2) At least 5 7B+ and upwards (Underworld, Slopey traverse, Doris Direct, Ringpiece and Pit problem low start should cover it).
3) At least 1 Font 7B abroad.
4) 2/3 trips abroad.
5) More trips round the UK rather than just climbing grit all the time.
6) Maybe actually tie on to a rope this year (slate looks fun...).
7) Don't get another hernia.
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2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January.
3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn.
4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn.
Nice set of non-lime Euro destinations.
Why thank you sir :). I've been to 2 (at Easter) and 4 (in 30'C+ heat) but need to get back in cooler temps as some harder stuff looks ace. Got a Spanish friend who is in Madrid for a couple of weeks at the end of Jan and is keen, so that could be good. Berdorf looks good for a long weekend / short week so fingers crossed for that too...
Ideally I'd also climb some trad with nik at work too ;)
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Never done the public sharing of goals before. But think these are they:
(1) Boulder: STG/MTG consolidate Fb7A, including ticking Green Traverse. By end of year tick a Fb7A+, maybe Lightning Strike.
(2) Routes: Consolidate at F7b, by end of year tick a F7b+. Lots of Portland and Cheddar options to choose from.
(3) Publish my novel
(4) Bomb-proof my shoulders, get my fingers to 100% health. Or at least 90%.
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Goals
Routes
In general, get my stamina back to pre-winter levels (not tied on at all since early November) and carry on ticking at Malham and Kilnsey, specifically:
- Raindogs.... Raindogs.... Raindogs!
- If not mentally ruined by the above, An.Other classic Yorkshire 8a (maybe Zoolook, the Bulge, or Subculture), maybe, if going very well, start to project a "soft" 8a+.
- See off some unfinished business: Prime Evil at Chapel, Man With a Gun at Kilnsey (if it feels at all familiar).
- Fill in some gaps in my home-education - climb anything at Gordale, have a go at Mescalito.
- Do some sport routes in Wales - I've never climbed at LPT, Dinbren, or any of the A55 crags - really must have a week there.
Bouldering
- Make an effort to visit some moorland grit (have a go at McNab).
- Likewise, visit Thorn Crag for the first time.
- See off Ringpiece and maybe the Calf traverse.
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After an average year in terms of climbing in 2013 due to shoulder injury and relocation to London I have finally got on top of my shoulder injury and am able to train hard again so I am feeling positive/over ambitious about the year ahead!
I think my ambitions probably outweigh the free time I have available though but I will see how it goes!
Routes:
Indian Summer (Kilnsey) - I have had 2 seasons on this and came close in 2012 but didn't get back on it last year due to injury. If I can maintain my current training, stay injury free and get some sessions on it in the spring I am confident it will go!
Work an 8c with the long term aim of completing this climbing ambition - I have tried Bat Route at Malham which was coming together but there was still a move on the headwall that felt almost impossible for me. May have another look this year. I will have a two short trips to try Fish Eye at Oliana in the next couple of months with a longer trip to try and get it done at Easter. I have been on this before and did all the moves quickly, it is just a case of having the fitness to recover in between the hard sections.
Flash/Onsight 8a - I came very close to flashing an 8a in Red River Gorge in October and flashed a 7c+/8a in Chulilla the other day. I am not too far off but just need to keep trying.
Headpoint a good mountain trad route such as a Birkett route in the Lakes - I did Dawes Rides a Shovelhead a few years back which was amazing and would like to do something similar. I have tried If Six Was Nine briefly and would be keen to get back on that partners/weather permitting.
I would like to climb another big wall next year (Kyrgystan) so I would also like to do some bigger routes (Dolomites, Swiss Granite) in preparation if I can find the time!
Bouldering:
No specific bouldering aims. I need to get my bouldering grade up to fulfill my route ambitions and maybe finish off some problems I have tried such as 36 Chambers at Tremeirchion.
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After probably my worst year in the last 10, I'm going modest.
Sport - 7c+
Bouldering - 7b
Trad - :lol:
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Guess it's time to put it out there! Edit some rollovers and some new ones
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go. Insallah.
2 - get woody up in new house
3 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
4 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13.5 st by the time clocks change.
7 - get on some of the 20 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
8 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag
9 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks
10 - ski / board more - ski or board (depending how long approach is) one graded gully. Get to Alps for a week of snowsports
11- Surf more, hopefully get somewhere warm for a family holiday / surf trip
12 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing
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the ace
if I get it I wont care about much else
maybe get stronger
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going to keep it simpler this year
dont get injured
do more 8As
do something <8A+
stop going on trips for mileage and do something hard
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do something <8A+
This has got to be the easiest aim for the year I've seen so far!
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do something <8A+
This has got to be the easiest aim for the year I've seen so far!
Shirley <7C+ would be easier? ;)
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Life:
Lose the 2 inches I've gained since November
Get new job
Get married without bankrupting self
Bouldering:
Tick a 7a indoors
Tick 5x 6b's outdoors
Related to the above, go outdoors more
Well this is going well - New job sorted already YYFY :punk:
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Losing 2 inches may be painful :)
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do something <8A+
This has got to be the easiest aim for the year I've seen so far!
Shirley <7C+ would be easier? ;)
doh.
was supposed to be >8A as well....
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Losing 2 inches may be painful :)
Not as painful as gaining it was. Weights and hooks...
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Complete recently started stuff - eatswood Reverse (ideally do the full circuit), Blind Date.
Be in great shape to attempt the Oak from end of Feb
Complete longstanding projects - Anger Management, Oak, Rattle and Hump start (ideally do links into it) and Kudos start (ideally do the route)
Bolt and climb two new sport routes I’ve got my eye on
At least one bolt clipping trip away with Tommy and teach him to lead trad
Come to terms with turning 50
Lots of property aims principally get an extension done and a new property completed on and refurbished and let by summer
Do a couple more interviews
Rebolt some routes
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50 E points, (36 last year so shouldn't be to hard)
Get back to Gogarth
Go to more new crags, (Yorkshire, Lakes, Lleyn maybe)
More sport climbing, try redpointing something in the 7B region.
Sub 18min 5km
A decent length fell race.
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6. Run another hill marathon or two.
Got a place in the Lakeland 50, so aim 6a is to complete that (ideally in under 15 hours).
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All very modest but hopefully achieveable
General
lose the blubber and get below 75kg as a minimum by Easter
Avoid finger tweaks :'(
Complete a full training cycle without work fcuking it up by working stupid hours away from home as happened repeatedly in 2013
Sport
Find a project 7a in the Angus area
Redpoint 6c+
Onsight 6b+
Trad
E1/2 would be nice as haven't done one since the 80's/90's and my return to climbing in the noughties
Do some easy mountain classics
Bouldering
7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the County
Prow at Portlethen
Consolidate at 6C/+
Develop some of the projects in the southern Cairngorms
Torridon trip
Irish trip to visit Glendo etc
More trips to the County and to grit :wub:
Other
More winter routes and lead my first Grade II/III
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7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the County
What about: Romancing The Stone, Razor's Edge, The Dude, Gale Force, Black Orc, Powerhouse, Autumn Arete, Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton, Spanking The Monkey, White Matter, Retroclaim, Stretch Armstrong, Bowfinger, Slap Happy or Mugsy??
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Call me a heretic, but I think Porty Prow is a bit log. Plenty of better probs about. find a good 7a clise to home if you want to seige something, Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton might be a good choice from fiend's list.
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Aiming to get my first f7a+ boulder this year and keep injuries and niggles to minimum.
Anyone know of any spot on the grade and brilliant boulders to suggest?
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Accept that since I am getting on a bit, that my grip will never be the same as it used to be and try to remember this if/when i get some form back that I inevitably have to stop due to discomfort of some sort.
get strong again, last year was bad, this will involve staying away from local comps because they are way too bad on my hands (I only have one comp setting, which is pull too hard)
Deadlift 150Kg
pick and succeed on a project at either a resonable grade, or that is completely beyond my current skillset.
From last year's list, get euro-lean
stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.
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Portlethen Prow is one of the very few good lines there, it is well worth doing. 90% of the rest can log off tho ;)
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I dont think the Prow is log but it is not that good either, def on the edge of being 6b+, Slap and Tickle is much better value for a classic Porty tick.
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Slap and Tickle is probably harder....and the other good line there ;)
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Find some new routes in the Peak
8b Sport
7C+/8A
Try and concentrate at Uni
Actually get stronger instead of whining about being weak (ties in to 2 and 3)
Leave the top roping to hard/new things
Wales/Northumberland/Mournes - New places.
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Sorry Pebblespanker, should have been dishing out motivation rather than dissing the project choice.
I had the Prow on my hit list for years before I finally did, difficult to avoid looking at it when at Porty and a local must do. Took me alot of working and was my first 6c. A couple of really good moves that are so much better when they come together. It is inspiring and totally worth it, go get it !!!
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stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.
:D
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stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.
Become even more epically self-deluding, grumpy and uptight. Take my posing game to the next level.
Wouldn't want you to have too easy a time hitting your niceness goal rodma ;D
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Headpoint a good mountain trad route such as a Birkett route in the Lakes - I did Dawes Rides a Shovelhead a few years back which was amazing and would like to do something similar. I have tried If Six Was Nine briefly and would be keen to get back on that partners/weather permitting.
I would like to climb another big wall next year (Kyrgystan) so I would also like to do some bigger routes (Dolomites, Swiss Granite) in preparation if I can find the time!
i'm up for both of these John!
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1.Buy a house
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Get to and stay under 70kg
Onsight 7a+/climb 7b in any form possible on Easter Chorro trip
Build training wall somewhere
Not let Doha get me down
Jebel Misht next Christmas
All problems in sinkhole
Regular Skype/email/letter contact with family and friends
Summer 2014 trad - Interrogation, Zuma, Renegade, Widespread Ocean of Fear, Mercury, Mass Murderer, the Baldest, Dream Liberator
Be a good husband
Organise finances
Plan career change
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Being able to actually put a pair of climbing shoes on is the target - along with being able to stand up onto my toes. I can currently get one shoe on (the left) but the psoriasis under the nails on my right foot is still there so it's no go for that side. Arthritis around the balls of both feet is still keeping me fairly flat-footed but this has been slowly improving this last year and I have started riding again.
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Short term
Get the super secret project done
Maintain current level while moving to new house and starting new job
Go to font over Easter
Medium term
OS 20 E5s over the summer season
HP/ground up some E6s: A38, Bold as Love, Crimson Dynamo, A magenta Smudge
Consolidate at 7c+/8a: stuff at Brean, Academic, stuff at cheddar, Smashing of Amps
Climb at Avon Gorge and Trym Valley
Long term
Repeat local hard boulder problems: stuff at Ladye bay, Tombstone, Gollum's cave (if i can stomach it!), stuff at Huntsham
HP some E7s
Repeat some of the harder sport routes: Brean Topping, Shadow Walker, The Milky Bar Kid
Tick all of the routes at Brean logged on UKC
Fucking enormous tick on all fronts so far :D Three weeks in to the new job and regular wall sessions are well under way. Ticked the super secret project today, been getting out and doing hardish stuff pretty much every weekend. Booked up for 9 days in font at the start of easter.
Commence stage 2.
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Spill the beans, what was the super secret project? If it doesn't seep then it must be the only climbable bits of rock around atm!
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I was waiting for someone else to start ticking things off - nice work on the project.
Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. *Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg (78/79kg lately)
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc.
Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year.
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday) *Done - flashed it too
Indoors V5
Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love :chair:
Get some more E1s
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy)
Consolidate VS and HVS
Sport
Onsight 6b
Actually redpoint something :'( *start working a 6c on lead tonight
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Spill the beans, what was the super secret project? If it doesn't seep then it must be the only climbable bits of rock around atm!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=302974 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=302974)
Dries pretty quickly as it's south facing and pretty sheltered from the worst of the weather. Get in there for a quick repeat :)
p.s. Don't suppose you know Jack Folland? Im living with him this year.
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Cheers, I'll get on it as soon as my knee is less injured!
(Don't think I do know him, but I'm terrible with names.)
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
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Get down to 12st 10 (cues billious laughter from parts of Sheffield)
Climb more on the grit and cheshire Sandstone.
Have a good session in Font in July / August.
Work less.
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
may I suggest Dry Wit in a Wet Country over on RHS, technical 7A with a good height on it you're bound to remember (if it's your first you're best making it a good one)
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Worth asking elsewhere? In fact I'm a sure similar quesation has been asked before!
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
may I suggest Dry Wit in a Wet Country over on RHS, technical 7A with a good height on it you're bound to remember (if it's your first you're best making it a good one)
Looks good, thanks, can get there from home fairly quickly too on an evening. Judging from a quick photo i've found too it looks ideal for my style, finger strength and good footwork i am guessing up to the crack
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Not that fingery but good footwork and a decent method will yield results. Great problem.
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Not that fingery but good footwork and a decent method will yield results. Great problem.
Perfect. its on the list.
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so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great.
the traverse under deliverance
just technical, nothing else
pretty hard 7A (it's 7A+), but your shoulders won't feel a thing
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Get down to 12st 10 (cues billious laughter from allparts of Sheffield the UK)
:coffee:
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so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great.
the traverse under deliverance
just technical, nothing else
pretty hard 7A (it's 7A+), but your shoulders won't feel a thing
forgot about that, pretty lowball too so ticks all the boxes, and closer to home. Another one on the list!
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Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. *Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg (78/79kg lately)
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc.
Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year. Been twice now! (Feb24)
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday) *Done - flashed it too
Indoors V5
Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love :chair:
Get some more E1s
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy)
Consolidate VS and HVS
Sport
Onsight 6b A perfect Feb day - on limestone
Actually redpoint something :'( *start working a 6c on lead tonight
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-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ...
partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)
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-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ...
partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)
Reve?
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
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-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ...
partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)
Reve?
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If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux anomaly in my book
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!
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-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ...
partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)
Reve?
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If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux anomaly in my book
reve. went straight on it the 1st day and ticked in a few hours.
The other 8a's i've had a look at either felt a lot harder (cauchemar, but especially elixir).
Chouca felt more doable, at least in proper siege mode, but went on it on my second last day and left it for another trip.
On my last day i was very close (with a lot of wobblers and epic tantrums) on fissure serge which gets 7c+/8a if i understand well. Absolutely brilliant, at least the dyno way.
joe weider gets 7c+ in the last guidebook as "today's climbers are more accustomed to this kind of burly climbing".
Honestly speaking i had seen a pic of that thing that looked ace so one evening on the walk back i went to have a look at it from the ground...
After real-world inspection i think it would be a brilliant route boulder if it was made out of granite, on a stand-alone piece of rock having a belay topout five meters from the ground...
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!
Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.
And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...
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6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13.5 st by the time clocks change. - 13st 6 3/4 last week! - stretch goal 13st by time clocks change!
7 - get on some of the 20 or so FAs I have earmarked for development - some good ones done, more to come.
9 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks so far so good.
12 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing shiny and new, the beast have cometh! Now to make time to use it!
edited cos yellow is unreadable.
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-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ...
partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)
Reve?
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If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux anomaly in my book
reve. went straight on it the 1st day and ticked in a few hours.
The other 8a's i've had a look at either felt a lot harder (cauchemar, but especially elixir).
Chouca felt more doable, at least in proper siege mode, but went on it on my second last day and left it for another trip.
On my last day i was very close (with a lot of wobblers and epic tantrums) on fissure serge which gets 7c+/8a if i understand well. Absolutely brilliant, at least the dyno way.
joe weider gets 7c+ in the last guidebook as "today's climbers are more accustomed to this kind of burly climbing".
Honestly speaking i had seen a pic of that thing that looked ace so one evening on the walk back i went to have a look at it from the ground...
After real-world inspection i think it would be a brilliant route boulder if it was made out of granite, on a stand-alone piece of rock having a belay topout five meters from the ground...
Thank god for that. My comment wasnt about JW grade just the fact its shit and not really Buoux, it was popular back in the day as a 1st 8a.
Reve is great and either easy or desperate i guess depending on how strong you are. Elixir is the best one but the top is easy or desperate for the opposite reasons i gave for Reve.
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1. Use the board at least once a week. So far so good......
6. Run another hill marathon or two. Done the Grizedale Ultra Trail 26, just the Howgills 26, the Three Rings of Shap 100km and the Lakeland 50 to go.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Working my way through Tess of the d'Urbevilles.
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Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...
Used to climb a lot at Caley when I lived in Bradford so probably know that problem already, may have even already done it in my youth (depending when the FA happened of course). family still live nearby now so should go and give it a visit, always liked the style of climbing at Caley, almost hate to admit it given where i now live but prefer it to a lot of the Peak.
Anyway, another one on the list, its going to be a busy summer!
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!
Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.
And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...
Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!
Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.
And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...
Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.
The large one to start with?? That's the only large footer I remember.
I basically did the same sequence as in this vid... Although I remember not having my feet so high when I went for the top.
@16:55
Gripping Grit - Peak District July 2012 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50258583)
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re. Seams Simple Enough did it a few years ago and thought it just about ok for a very soft 7a, the beta making it soft (in my mind) was going to the top dynamically from lower, rather than statically climbing to the top.
Did it again recently and the right hand hold , that was a seam, is now a pretty big crimp/lawaway, I am guessing it has suffered from a breakage/overbrushing, this makes it much easier than it was (~6b?).
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Thank god for that. My comment wasnt about JW grade just the fact its shit and not really Buoux, it was popular back in the day as a 1st 8a.
some 40-something climber from NE france told me that herds of alsace climbers went straight on it back in the day (as routes in alsace are bouldery and so it fitted their style).
i wouldn't say it is a total piece of shit but rather that it's in a very unlucky location.
I've seen very similar "three bolt wonders" that look million times better just because they are in a more prominent position and are considered "classics" of their crag.
(example http://tinyurl.com/l9jaye2 (http://tinyurl.com/l9jaye2) )
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!
Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.
And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...
Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.
The large one to start with?? That's the only large footer I remember.
I basically did the same sequence as in this vid... Although I remember not having my feet so high when I went for the top.
Yep starting foot hold and if that's the same vid I think it is (can't view at work). I did it the same way with low feet for the top like you say.
I agree with Sidewinder about the grade though I can't comment on the right hand hold as I've no idea what it was like before.
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Well that's saved me some time and petrol money anyway!
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying them
Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6?
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Now have a beastmaker, recent BUCS score indicates beastliness in on the way, let the training commence.
Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc.
Remain uninjuredThus far
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move to a big house in S11
tick
goodbye S2, hello cheap insurance and a mortgage that would make Louis XVI wince
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All very modest but hopefully achieveable
General
lose the blubber and get below 75kg as a minimum by Easter now at 73.7 from 79kg, still some blubber to go
Avoid finger tweaks :'( just started Maximals cycle on fingerboard... so far so good
Complete a full training cycle without work fcuking it up by working stupid hours away from home as happened repeatedly in 2013 Completed 8 week general strength cycle uninterupted and made good gains
Sport
Find a project 7a in the Angus area
Redpoint 6c+
Onsight 6b+
Trad
E1/2 would be nice as haven't done one since the 80's/90's and my return to climbing in the noughties
Do some easy mountain classics
Bouldering
7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the County
Prow at Portlethen
Consolidate at 6C/+
Develop some of the projects in the southern Cairngorms
Torridon trip
Irish trip to visit Glendo etc
More trips to the County and to grit :wub: one county trip so far
Other
More winter routes and lead my first Grade II/III One Grade 1 solo so far
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Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.
I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Just been up to have a quick look at this before the sun went down, thought I'd have a play about the 5's and a 6 arete next to it as been for a giant sunday dinner at the Barrel Inn at Bretton. As it happens, Seams Simple Enough is indeed very simple indeed, did it about fifth or sixth go once I realised I needed a high right foot. As much as I'd like to lay claim for a YYFY for my first 7a of the year (and in about 20 years) it feels a bit of a hollow victory as it is no way a 7a I don't think, felt more like steady 6b or soft touch 6c at best.
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I'd decided Seams Simple Enough was gonna be a 7a project too... feeling a little dispirited about it now :( Had been told it was soft, maybe 6c/+ but 6b? Rubbish.
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I'd decided Seams Simple Enough was gonna be a 7a project too... feeling a little dispirited about it now :( Had been told it was soft, maybe 6c/+ but 6b? Rubbish.
Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.
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Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.
Thanks. Half of the appeal was the easier stuff around it... cheers for that.
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After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused.
-Rays Roof, so psyched for this :boxing:
-Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)
-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope
-Pass all my law exams! :smartass:
Managed the bulb in the first week of January :) Though the crafty heel above the head beta makes it feel hard 7c. Anyway, tick there but i'll replace it with ''Boulder another 7c+'' Curious yellow, Ben's Groove sit, to me to you and heaven in your hands are all contenders!
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After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused.
-Rays Roof, so psyched for this :boxing:
-Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)
-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope
-Pass all my law exams! :smartass:
Managed the bulb in the first week of January :) Though the crafty heel above the head beta makes it feel hard 7c. Anyway, tick there but i'll replace it with ''Boulder another 7c+'' Curious yellow, Ben's Groove sit, to me to you and heaven in your hands are all contenders!
Where do you heelhook?
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Once you get the bulb with your right and chip with your left, you place your left heel on a small dish just left and a bit below the pocket on the face. Should be fairly obvious from standing. Then go over with your left to the good hold above the bulb. Hope that helps!
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Once you get the bulb with your right and chip with your left, you place your left heel on a small dish just left and a bit below the pocket on the face. Should be fairly obvious from standing. Then go over with your left to the good hold above the bulb. Hope that helps!
Thanks for letting me know.
I find the crux getting the bulb hold, probably because I'm short, but that's also why I find the next bit easy.
I'm glad there isn't a cheat heel way of getting said bulb hold.
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Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.
Thanks. Half of the appeal was the easier stuff around it... cheers for that.
This was harder the first time I did it, now the bottom foothold has eroded to be masssive, the wee foothold on the left has I suspect been chipped out and the top crimp has snapped revealing a much bigger crimp.
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I actually only used the top crimp for my left to get stabilised and get my right foot high to pop off the right hand crimp/sidepull. Either way as you say FBSF, felt easier that 7a.
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying them
Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon
Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc.
Remain uninjuredThus far
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1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year...
2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+. Have come off the last move so many times... Haven't been on it in a month or 2 now... Might have to wait until it gets proper warm again...
3. Put up at least 100 new problems. 23 so far!! Getting there! :bounce:
4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing. Found 2 new areas today! So many more problems! Too many areas to choose from now...
5. V7 in the Grampians.
6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg.
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. And some 7b+s!
Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon
Do well in uni. Some improvements, entering revision mode now
Remain uninjuredThus far
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. And some 7b+s!
Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect
Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning :)
Remain uninjuredThus far
These aims are flying by! Actually training really helps! Another week of revision in which to hop on to some sport/ try more 7cs. Trad may not happen as I'm going to Borneo and Australia this summer and all of next year, so we'll see
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Seems a good topic for my first post :wave:
Boulder - 7B+
Sport - 7c
Trad - try some E5s ground up
Some specific climbs - West Side Story, T crack ( (1 session, got close), Suavito (2 sessions, not very close), Nosferatu, Strapadictomy, Jerrys roof, Ressurection.
Trips - Bouldering in Fontainebleau (Done, and ticked a few nemesis problems from my last trip) :2thumbsup: and Torridon, sport climbing in Turkey
and look after my tendons
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Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen….
.......
Running:
Highlander MM - Top three in Class - Fail - 12th
Saunders MM - Win Class
Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half
....
Well, I've started well by failing at the first hurdle! I'm blaming illness and my daughter. Managed to get into mid camp in 14th and snuck up to 12th on the second day. So far off the pace it's untrue. From the splits we were competitive over the flats, a little slow on the downs but any leg with a significant climb was the undoing of us. Happy with 12th bearing in mind the level of training we'd manged (nothing) and it's inspired me to put more effort into it before the Saunders.
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Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:- Dolomites planned beginning of June; might be too early for good conditions
- Oberreintal planned July
- elsewhere in Alps e.g.
Ecrins Kaisergebirge planned August - UK trad excursion planned July
Frankenjura: as regularly as possible.
Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring Yes
then get on a 7a. soon
But also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s we're clear on "get on" ≠ "succeed", right?
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1. Get my swollen knee/leg fixed as it is currently like the limb of an elephant.
2. Get Louis Armstrong done.
1. TICK! Had an arthroscopy on my left knee 9 weeks ago to remove 2 meniscal tears and have gotten back into regular climbing outside in the last 2 weeks.
2. Back on track have had 3 sessions back on Louis already (feared my knee wouldn't be ready to try it but the strengthening and mobility stuff seems to have worked). Had a good second session on it doing it in 2 halves (start to slapping rail every go & doing crux to finish 3 times), so just need to get a bit stronger to hold the crux from the start. Session 3 was shit and I went backwards... Could be a long siege.
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Effort beast!
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A bit late adding an entry to this one... I've got so many aims both climbing and not that it's scary writing them all down. I've just come out of a 12 year relationship with my gf and am relocating to Sheffield from Bristol for a start!
Climbing
-----------
- Climb at least one 8A bloc
- Tick my 7C blocs from 2013 post (Tetris + Rock Atrocity) and a bunch more (wasn't able to due to being on 8 month rock trip)!
- Climb an 8 on a rope, possibly an 8a+?
- Keep up with regular antagonistic exercises
- Actually do some training to improve finger and body strength
- Get half-crimp strength strong enough to replace full crimp when pulling at limit
- One arm, bodyweight hang off of an edge
- One armer off of an edge
- 1-5-9
- No injuries
Non-Climbing
-----------------
- Sell motorhome
- Buy car/small van
- Move to Sheffield
- Get a job in Sheffield
- When job is secure - buy flat
- Make some good mates
- Finish the last year of my degree at Bradford Uni
- Have a crack at some mountain biking and other types of outdoors exercise that are fun and don't actually feel like exercise
- Cook from scratch at least 2-3 times per week
- Improve snack diet
and breath... I don't even want to look at this list!
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Is that it chain? Can't think of anything else?
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The worst part is that I probably could... That'll do for now though!
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Getting super close to loads
Sport
Get a 7c outside Hohyboude in Switz. Given 7c+ by some
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6?
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Beastmaker has been put away, but rings have replaced it
Do well in uni. Meh.
Remain uninjuredThus far
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- Climb 8A+
- consolidate 8A. Just came back from rocklands and took down a couple in pretty quick time
- valiantly attempt an 8B
- finish of some nemeses (i.e. don't fall off the top of berezina again)
- Make it to Magic Wood. Nope, other trips used all the money
- Go somewhere new. Rocklands last month and kalymnos in september!
- one armer on little crimp on beastmaker
- get flexibility back!
- at least a reasonable 2.1 for the year. Happy with that one
All in all its going alright :)
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Trad: Onsight E4 consistently and get up a few major E5s onsight (Positron, Right Wall, Supersonic). Get back to Pembroke for a long weekend (only did 4 routes there this year). Headpoint a grit E6 (candidates, Wall of Sound, Salmon Left Hand, Slackers). Ressurection, Bloody Sunday, Minotaur, Trouble in Toytown flashed or onsighted. Have done quite a few E5s this year one way or another. Also headpointed Yukan II, a route I'd had in the back of my mind for ages, surprised myself with it falling into place quite easily.
Sport: Flash 7b, redpoint 8a before I'm 30 (18 months). Think I'm good for both of these, just need to get the mileage and train carefully, specifically power and finger strength for 8a. Flashed 7b in Chorro (prob a soft one) but got up quite a few 7a+ routes onsight. Ticked more than average 7b+/7c routes this year. Still not climbed harder than 7c, 8a feels possible but is a sideline goal with other things really, more of a measure of progress than a goal. Key sport goal at the moment is to get more stamina and finally put Body Machine to bed.
Make a training log to aid progress on this. Had limited plan this year due to work commitments. Long summer holiday sorted most of it out and I focussed on strength in between. Have 6 month plan for Easter next year,
Life: Finish PGCE successfully. Decide where I want to live! Still in Sheffield, got job.
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Rough chronological order:
1. Climb some more grit routes this winter. - semi-fail. Had one brief trip whilst injured so didn't do much exciting.
2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January. - success! A bit hampered by weather but managed to do a few ace slabs.
3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn.
4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn.
5. Move to Manchester / Peak area. - fail. Need to do this.
6. If successful, climb some cool routes in Wales / South West. - semi-fail. Had a few days in Meirionydd and loved it. Hopefully get down more this autumn.
7. Get weight below 12 stone in spring. - fail. Despite cutting out soft drinks and keep training more than last year, I keep gaining weight. >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
8. Keep doing falling practise. - success. Done this every time I've been to the wall and it's starting to feel familiar.
9. Keep training CV at gym and micro-runs. - semi-success. Done this a reasonable amount, could do more though.
10. --- to be added later --- Let's say: Do some good routes in The Lakes. - success. Done some good routes in The Lakes! Still need to get to Raven and maybe Dow before my brain explodes from desire.
3/4 mark report. Fairly shit as far as goals go although I have done some good climbing and training this year. :???: :???: :???:
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General
Regular training - join a London climbing club to increase opportunities to get out - Very much done - Have been climbing a lot considering how far from rock i am without a car.
Prioritise climbing outside over drinking/working! - done recently.
Sport
Get out to Portland/Swanage/Brean Down/Anstey's Cove - 3/4. Possibly get to Ansteys before the year is out.
Climb 7c's/7c+ 1 7c, done ok considering not projected much at all.
Go to a new sport climbing holiday destination, El Chorro, Rodellar, Kalymnos. - Done, and another trip to new place booked for October.
Trad
Onsight some more classic E4's - only 1 E4 this year.
Onsight E5 - 1 E5
Get out to Swanage/Sharpnose/Pembroke. - 2/3. May still get to Sharpnose too.
(rollover from last year) do Wall of the World, Right Wall and some other classic E5's. - Not yet - could still do WOTW's though.
Bouldering
Check out SS bouldering...
Climb a font 7a+/V7 outside.
Climb a font 7b/V8 outside. - Total failure to boulder.
Other
3.15 Marathon - Bailed on running, too much hard work.
(rollover from last year) Climb Freeborn Man - Jumped off due to fear on first days DWS.
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1. Boulder 8B (one of two local projects that I've been trying off and on since 1999) - Check
2. Mandala (next fall?) - November trip planned, but not yet booked. Booking will happen this week.
3. Crow Pass Marathon in Sub 5hr (July) - Couldn't get registered(strict qualifying requirements)
4. More days outside than 2013 - Including travel days, this has already been met, and with another trip and another month locally, should well beat it.
5. Bolt and climb some new routes hopefully in the 8a-8b range :) - One 8a/+ bolted and done. Going to start working on #'s 2 and 3 this month.
So far every expectation of meeting all of this years goals!
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1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year... Pff. Realistic goal there dumbass. Only did my first V7 2 months ago. Unless I get on a soft V8 (nothing soft around here!), I've got no chance. Green for the V7 though! :D
2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+. Almost time to get back on it... First 30 degree day yesterday but water is still cold. Couple of weeks.....
3. Put up at least 100 new problems. 47... Slowed down abit but big new crag I found is now drying out... Should keep me busy.
4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing. Rather than making a guide, I've been logging all info onto www.thecrag.com (http://www.thecrag.com) for all to use. New local facebook group is getting some attention now too. I'm counting it.
5. V7 in the Grampians. Fires. Didn't get down there. Some areas have only just opened up. Unlikely that I'll go down this year.
6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg. Damn I'm lazy...
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Trad: Right Wall Had a great trad trip in august with an aim for RW at the end, rained as we pulled into N Wales, oh well went to Gogarth, small chance of an October attempt but more likely not.
Sport: More at 7c and find a good 7c+ got another 7c and 7b+ but still valiantly fighting for a 7c+ (Arch Enemies is never 7c) will get back on Call of nature too as the temps drop
Bouldering: 7B (again) Haven't bouldered but gains on the wave recently signalling this should be ok this winter, my apple or suavito ideally
Life: Buy house and finish short grit film Did film and just waiting on completetion date for house, long struggle and glad it's coming to an end
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1 (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1)
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-2 (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-2)
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Non-climbing
3. Lose half a stone
Climbing
1. Climb a Lancashire 7a
3.Nailed, down to about 10 stone fuck all and feel much better for it
1. Done today! Climbed Pursuit of Slappiness 7A at Jumbles, took me by surprise but well pleased, need to get on more now!
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Go Beast!!
-
1.Buy a house
1. :wall:
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Sport - 7c Yes! One in Cheedale (Cry of Despair) and another in Ceuse (Vagabond).
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Sport - 7c Yes! One in Cheedale (Cry of Despair) and another in Ceuse (Vagabond).
Nice work chaz!
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i'd be really happy realizing just a single one of the following:
blahblahblkah
...or onsighting 7c did a soft one in Orco
blahblah
...US trip. went to Yosemite
blahblah
...Any big wall went up the Nose in no particular style.
so it seems that i've realized three (or rather two, as us trip=big walll) of my declared objectives. I should be very happy!
...yet i feel a disappointing sense of "underachievement" when thinking about the Yos trip i've just came back from.
On one side my three trip mates had an heavy argument on the Nose itself just before my arrival, two of them left the Valley, and this left me with a climbing partner that was not the "planned" one, and most importantly seemed to have very different objectives, motivations and fears.
(aid & big days Vs free & smaller days, climbing for the routes' name and size Vs for the physical challenge and the "freeclimbing achievement", not being confident free Vs not wanting to walk too long or haul too heavy)
On the other hand after a bit of initial, rather successful compromising where we worked as a complementary team (the Nose), i stupidly got stuck into my initial objectives (which could have been an ambitious but reasonable choice with different partner styles) and basically trashed time while at the same time losing my main partner's residual motivation.
At the end of the trip i really wanted to do the Rostrum but couldn't find anyone to go with: my partner felt it was too hard in freeclimbing terms (and probably not "famous" enough in France, nor enough of a "big day out") , everyone i knew at camp4 had already done it one of two weeks before!
very happy with something that was not a declared aim though.
early in the trip we went to Separate Reality, managed to flash it with a proper fight, placing the gear and with zero warmup (but knowing each available video by heart), and then went back to camp 4, drinking fat tire's.
I think it was Nibile who learned me that Gullich's definition of a "perfect climbing day" was similar to this (go to the crag, send your project really quickly, and then go to the gasthaus). :)
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very happy with something that was not a declared aim though.
early in the trip we went to Separate Reality, managed to flash it with a proper fight, placing the gear and with zero warmup (but knowing each available video by heart), and then went back to camp 4, drinking fat tire's.
I think it was Nibile who learned me that Gullich's definition of a "perfect climbing day" was similar to this (go to the crag, send your project really quickly, and then go to the gasthaus). :)
:beer2: allllrighttt
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Monster achievement!
Giù il cappello davanti a te amico mio.
As I like to say, the less I climb, the better.
:dance1:
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Climb less, rest lots, achieve more is a good way to roll!
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drinking fat tires.
Colorado's finest. My beer of choice on CO ski trips.
And awesome effort on SR.
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1. Get my Tally of 7C's up to 75
Tally now up to 90
2. Do Zoo York, carried over from last year
Grit season about to start so theres time
3. Aim to do 10 8A's
11 so far
4. 8A+, A long shot......
Managed 2!!
5. Attempt to do more sport climbing
Illywacker and Comedy.
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1. Boulder 8B (one of two local projects that I've been trying off and on since 1999)
2. Mandala (next fall?)
3. Crow Pass Marathon in Sub 5hr (July)
4. More days outside than 2013
5. Bolt and climb some new routes hopefully in the 8a-8b range :)
Sent 8b Local line in September - Check #1
Sent Mandala last Saturday - Check #2
Wasn't allowed to sign up for Marathon due to race pre-reqs - Fail #3
More total outside days, but not as many local days out. Still Counts :) - Check #4
Bolted and sent 1 new 8a/+ this summer. Repeated another 8a routes as well - Sort of #5
Well that's it for the year for me. Nothing else happening on the climbing front this year. Gotta say, I'm pretty pleased with the years results! Definitely a good one for me.
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First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.
Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Done 10 including 7b+s
Sport
Get a 7c outside Hohyboude in Switz. Given 7c+ by some
Get good at onsighting close to limit again
Trad
Basically do more UKC tells me I did 5 trad routes this year
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? One on preplaced gear at the start of the year
Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Beastmaker has been put away, but rings have replaced it
Do well in uni. Meh.
Remain uninjuredThus far
Not a bad year all in all
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8A
Fail.
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Didn't set myself any climbing goals for 2014.
I had 2 goals: 12 months of progressive rehab following spine surgery and finish the lime guide. Both achieved. Bring on 2015
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Keep it simple this year.
1. Not get injured. Tick (touch wood with 3 weeks of the year left)
2. Boulder 7A Managed 2 alleged 7A indoors, does this count?
3. Sport 7b+ Big tick with associated YYFY, the Lynch. :weakbench: End of an era with send of a route that was my anti-style when I first tried it 5 years earlier. Sadly didn't follow this up as work intruded for the next few months.
4. Trad E3 Surprise tick here with a visit to Split Rock Quarry on my 2nd trad day of the year. Failed to consolidate by not climbing any more trad at all in the year! What happened there? :shrug:
Good start to the year, tailed off in climbing terms from June as work intruded. Built the garage board in Sept/Oct to kickstart things, now lets see what 2015 brings...
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Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:- Dolomites Had a long weekend planned in June but everything was still under piles of snow. Went sport climbing instead.
- Oberreintal Had a ltrip planned with some mates from the DAV but then had to take care of family stuff in England instead. Apparently it was great. Next year.
- elsewhere in Alps e.g. Ecrins Managed to squeeze in a couple of pleasant minor routes in the Kaisergebirge and Wetterstein despite limited time and crap weather in the summer
- UK trad excursion A short but pleasant North Wales visit with Kelvin
Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring then get on a 7a. But also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s
The grade/style/confidence gap on steep stuff is still there, but I'm working on it.
Nearly all my holiday time this year was taken up with visiting my ageing (dying) parents in England, leaving very little time for climbing trips. The one week I did reserve for an attempt on an ambitious alpine route was a complete washout: nonstop pouring rain. Managed to tack a short but pleasant outing to Wales onto one of the family visits.
Repointed my first 7a yyfy, and it wasn't totally desperate (five goes in total) which has done a lot for my general level of confidence and ambition. Consolidated my sport standard in general: seven of my top ten logbook entries are from 2014.
Difficult family circumstances, monsoon summer, but a good autumn sport season. Enjoyed what I did and the company of the people I did it with. Roll on next year (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25121.0).
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The last two years have been a real rollercoaster and for the first time I ages I feel settled. So......
- Lose a stone.
Lost 3/4 so nearly done. Had I not cracked a rib and got the flu I reckon that would have been ticked.
- Pass my bike test and buy a good bike
Done, passed in May and bought a Victory Hammer-S
- Have a really good trip to the Ments with GME and the lads
Done, a brilliant trip, especially after not having surfed for such a long time.
- Go climbing
Only once but not that bothered.
- Do some music thing
Yes, yes, yes. Really came on playing my guitar this year. Written some songs. Played with a few musicians. Psyched about the coming year to play live and stick a record out.
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I have been avoiding this thread for a while.
my climbing this year has been poor to say the least a few things have got in the way.
Trad
Climb E2 regularly think I have done 6 trad routes maybe 1 E1 repeat
Climb E3 see above
HP E4/5 see above
Climb more route than last year did not think it was possible
Sport
Onsight 6c or harder best onsight 6a+
Climb 7b again or harder 7a was my best
Bouldering
7A I did climb one and down graded it to 6C. I made sure it went in the guide at 6C not 7A
Other stuff.
Put up a FA on isle of man did not go to isle of man ... sorry Nik
Dolphin belly slap not been to almscliff
Climb in 4 different countries england, france and spain (not even wales)
I climbed so little this year I had a new route named after me in honley quarry called Better than video games - I was recovering from an operation that stopped me climbing at the time
I have really been struggling to get out this year due to partners, weather, injury but more than anything it was motivation that let me down.
I had an op on my toe in June which meant no climbing for June and most of July.
I then had a few things go wrong in my personal life shortly after that and things never seemed to stop coming. the shit is still coming now. Hopefully things will pick up in the next few weeks.
I did achieve a few things this year though.
I got on a bike for the first time in 15+ years
I cycled from London to Huddersfield in under 72 hours only 4 months after getting back on the bike.
After putting on a lot of weight after my operation I got fit again.
I then ran a sprint distance triathlon and went straight to the depot and entered the battle of britain.
I some how will struggling to stand up managed not to finish last at the battle of britain.
I climbed my first 7a in el chorro after three visits trying
Mostly I am disappointed in myself for this year. I should of done more.
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Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. *Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg (78/79kg lately) *Heavier -82/83
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc. Lots of soling on Idwel slabs, Cniefon Arete etc
Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year. *Font for 5 days, Plantation, Cratcliffe etc. First 6A and 6A+ in the forest, a few grit 6As too
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday) *Flashed 3
Indoors V5 Nowhere near at Pinnacle
Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love :chair: *Strong effort here - almost celebate
Get some more E1s *3 more, all slabs. Still chasing...
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy) Got on E2 5c and E3 6a, no joy. Still chasing...
Consolidate VS and HVS Dunno really. 2x5b,6x5a,12x4c tech pyramid but find grit HVS particularly hard
Sport
Onsight 6b A perfect Feb day - on limestone
Actually redpoint something What is this redpoint thing people do?!
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- UK trad excursion A short but pleasant North Wales visit with Kelvin
Looking back, I think your father's ill health at the time probably cast a larger shadow over the slate visit/climbing than you realised and also the fact you were climbing with someone from off the interweb - Pull my Daisy is so inside your capabilities. If you need a belay again this summer, just shout and we can get in the quarries with a plan to tick some good stuff.
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The last two years have been a real rollercoaster and for the first time I ages I feel settled. So......
- Lose a stone.
Lost 3/4 so nearly done. Had I not cracked a rib and got the flu I reckon that would have been ticked.
- Pass my bike test and buy a good bike
Done, passed in May and bought a Victory Hammer-S
- Have a really good trip to the Ments with GME and the lads
Done, a brilliant trip, especially after not having surfed for such a long time.
- Go climbing
Only once but not that bothered.
- Do some music thing
Yes, yes, yes. Really came on playing my guitar this year. Written some songs. Played with a few musicians. Psyched about the coming year to play live and stick a record out.
Brilliant!
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Complete recently started stuff - eatswood Reverse (ideally do the full circuit), Blind Date. Fell off the last move of ER at end of Feb and now JonBoy has made the finish harder by removing foot ledges. Sacked off Blind Date as it shredded my tips and instead went on West Side Story which was a nicer equivalent challenge and did it at the beginning of march \o/
Be in great shape to attempt the Oak from end of Feb I was in pretty good shape and doing better than ever on it in March to mid April but unfortunately it went pear shaped after that
Complete longstanding projects - Anger Management, Oak, Rattle and Hump start (ideally do links into it) and Kudos start (ideally do the route) Decided to boulder through the summer so AM didnt get a look in. Was not psyched for the travel and effort of trying the Oak in the Autumn. Didnt achieve either of those boulder problems.
Bolt and climb two new sport routes I’ve got my eye on No
At least one bolt clipping trip away with Tommy and teach him to lead trad Great trip to Kalymnos with him at the end of Oct and one trad day at Stanage when he led an HVS
Come to terms with turning 50 :-\
Lots of property aims principally get an extension done and a new property completed on and refurbished and let by summer Good success here but soaked up a lot of energy and I had no idea of the effect it would have depleting my climbing psyche - hence not going on the Oak in the Autumn
Do a couple more interviews Malc done but not seen the light of day yet. :( Not sure I want to do any more
Rebolt some routes None done but went to bolting workshop and lent my drill out to High Repute to rebolt
Now I've written it all down its not been such a disastrous year as I thought it was.
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Do a couple more interviews ... :( Not sure I want to do any more
how come?
effort involved etc? or running out of people who have climbed hubble :P
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1. Use the board at least once a week. Not been on it as much as I should.
2. Boulder 7C or harder. Ha ha, yeah right.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after two years of not visiting. Nope.
4. Do some trad with Nik at Work. Never came off, next year......
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists. Nope.
6. Run another hill marathon or two. Yeah! Further Faster series done, UTLD 50, 3 Rings of Shap. Essentially I've done seven hill events of marathon distance (or more) this year.
7. Find some new rock and do a good FA. No new rock, but got three nice FAs.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights Nope.
9. 7b in Font Nope. Circumstances and family bereavement didn't help our France holiday.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Read half a dozen but now trudging through Middlemarch I've lost direction!
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I did achieve a few things this year though.
I got on a bike for the first time in 15+ years
I cycled from London to Huddersfield in under 72 hours only 4 months after getting back on the bike.
After putting on a lot of weight after my operation I got fit again.
I then ran a sprint distance triathlon and went straight to the depot and entered the battle of britain.
I some how will struggling to stand up managed not to finish last at the battle of britain.
I climbed my first 7a in el chorro after three visits trying
Mostly I am disappointed in myself for this year. I should of done more.
When I first joined fitclub, you were so psyched all the time Grubes - it's tough to keep that going constantly tho but I reckon, just looking at that list I've quoted, that you've put way more effort in than you've given yourself credit for. Operations and personal shit never ever make life easy and most just curl up in front of the sofa. You've done your first sprint tri :-D and finished the day in a climbing comp! Total nutter.
You might not think it but some of us notice and people achieving when odds are stacked against them is always impressive.
Roll on next year eh?
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Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen….
Climbing:
Font 7c – The Goal, anything else is a nice to have.
30 new 7s (new to me, not new problems)
Tick the problems on The List
E5
7c
Orion Face Direct (depends on whether conditions coincide with an opportunity to get to Scotland)
Running:
Highlander MM - Top three in Class
Saunders MM - Win Class
Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half
General:
Write a training plan and stick to it.
One arm pull-up (both arms)
Ski another gully on the Ben (Tower Gully?)
Get below 13st.
Total abject failure. Had some lovely days out but struggled to balance climbing/running with work and family. Think I've reached a better balance so am attempting to put that into practice with a proper training plan over the winter.
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This is fun - I never posted mine at the start of the year, but the climbing ones were..
Redpoint F8b, on-sight 8a Had meant to try Revelations but never did. Had a quick play on Zeke but decided it was too fingery for me. Did a 'soft' 8b first RP in Spain and an 8a+ in two sessions, so not far off, just need a bit more time to commit to a siege. Hardest o/s was 7c (but a bl**dy classic one - Dominatrix), so still miles off 8a o/s. I reckon this is pretty unrealistic without a lot more time on actual rock.
Consolidate Font 8A Hmm, didn't really get it together bouldering-wise as got into doing routes. Failed at the Cave in May. Repeated Staminaband in a couple of sessions, which I'd only done once previously, 11 years ago. Spent quite a bit of time in the spring on Press Low Left, but need to be stronger for this.
Drop to 83.5Kg by end April 83.8Kg, so close. Was under 83Kg at end of October Spanish trip. A good year for not being too heavy.
DWS late August + flash Cider Soak F8a Just a DWS comp, but did OK in that. Got to 5 moves from the top of CS on the flash, but it was wet and a bit too hard. Did it quickly in 2.5 hours though. Syked for Tuppence in the future as the length/angle of that wall suits me.
O/S F8a in October My Spanish trip in October turned into a redpointing trip as I fell off the 8as that I tried. Getting 2/3rds of the way up of a couple of the obvious ones. Just didn't have that long route stamina.
Also had an extension built on the house, so that was the major non-climbing tick. 8m x 2.5m garage means I could build I board (if I didn't already have 3 walls to climb at and could be ar*ed...)
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Bouldering:
Do more problems at 7B+ and 7C
I have done a couple this year but I'd hoped to do more and I seem to be blighted by soft touches which don't really give the full satisfaction. Fluide at Crow Crag is morpho and almost certainly 7B or 7B+ for me. Parker SDS at the Glen can't possibly be the same grade as Underhand for someone who isn't tiny!
Sport:
Take up proper sport climbing and actually redpoint some stuff.
A funny one this. I did give sport climbing a bit of a go with mixed results. Everything at Malham puts me into a state of quivering fear as when you're heading for the lower-off, pumped solid, there always seems to be a huge run-out with nothing between you and death but one bolt. What if the quickdraw fails? It's rare but it happens! Ended up making embarrasing screaming noises and grabbing the chain on Wasted Youth despite having flashed it to the lower off.
Got on much better at Troller's Gill which is much less scary but didn't quite manage to project anything - just ended up flashing stuff or doing it after a go or two. Really enjoyed climbing there though, much more so than Malham!
Trad:
Use the above to do trad better. Continue to get on stuff that I want to do.
I tend to book a day's trad in, get the guidebook out, get psyched to do a particular route that I might find tough, and then get to the crag and flake out through fear. This is hugely disappointing and it still feels like a major barrier in my climbing is actually setting out to attempt these routes - most of which are vastly within what I know I am physically, but not necessarily mentally, capable of. This year confidence has definitely improved. I don't do as much trad now, but I can't remember not attempting something that I had got psyched for. This year I've done: Eavestone Wall, Crazy Paver, Equus, Psycho (a highball really), Whisky Wall (crap route but wanted to do it for years) which are all routes that would normally be walked away from without even trying through fear. The year seemed to climax on Saturday in one of the best days I've had on rock ever which included an on-paper personal best for me - Track of the Cat. I knew I wanted to get on this route and I'd worked myself up into a lather about it. Of course, once you've committed to tying on you find that it's a breeze. I think I zoned out for a lot of the slab and once I got started I felt utterly relaxed. It's really unusual that you can spend a whole week in a bubble at work feeling stressed or anxious about everything and then, at the very moment you are most in harms way, feel completely tranquil and at peace.
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Guess it's time to put it out there! Edit some rollovers and some new ones
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go. Insallah. - dry conditions never came when I was feeling fit
2 - get woody up in new house - bought some wood and holds for it
3 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody - had a good spell of fitness but 2/3 of year plagued by injuries
4 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes - was getting down, but not on routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13.5 st by the time clocks change. - down to 13 stone, which I have maintained most of the year.
7 - get on some of the 20 or so FAs I have earmarked for development managed nearly half that
8 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag a couple of good days
9 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks about twice in the year
10 - ski / board more - ski or board (depending how long approach is) one graded gully. Get to Alps for a week of snowsports couple of resort days in Scotland, no Alps trip
11- Surf more, hopefully get somewhere warm for a family holiday / surf trip - had a god spell mid summer, but no away trip
12 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing - Yep! Not had a load of use though!
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Bouldering:
Do more problems at 7B+ and 7C
I have done a couple this year but I'd hoped to do more and I seem to be blighted by soft touches which don't really give the full satisfaction. Fluide at Crow Crag is morpho and almost certainly 7B or 7B+ for me. Parker SDS at the Glen can't possibly be the same grade as Underhand for someone who isn't
I'm a lanky git and I personally think that Fluide is a hard problem. I've done much easier 7C's in font!
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Do a couple more interviews ... :( Not sure I want to do any more
how come?
effort involved etc? or running out of people who have climbed hubble :P
I started a trend now everyone is at it. ;) Joking aside there just seems there is an overwhelming amount of talking head content out there now. If there is a desire for more will do it. Maybe not the megastars - might be more novel to do interesting people I know - like zippy or john welford or Seb or Paul Reeve.
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I'd take one of the boards off you if Tom doesn't want them
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I'd take one of the boards off you if Tom doesn't want them
Sorry Ian - I took that post down as Lagers had PM'ed me PDQ. Never seen a fat man move so fast. If there is a board left I'll PM you
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Rough chronological order:
1. Climb some more grit routes this winter. - semi-fail. Had one brief trip whilst injured so didn't do much exciting. --- had another trip down and hampered by a few things but got the psyche back, carrying this forward to THIS winter.
2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January. - success! A bit hampered by weather but managed to do a few ace slabs.
3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn. --- fail.
4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn. --- fail.
5. Move to Manchester / Peak area. - fail. Need to do this. --- fail.
6. If successful, climb some cool routes in Wales / South West. - semi-fail. Had a few days in Meirionydd and loved it. Hopefully get down more this autumn --- ran out of weather.
7. Get weight below 12 stone in spring. - fail. Despite cutting out soft drinks and keep training more than last year, I keep gaining weight. >:( --- training more than usual, looking more defined above mid-torso, but haven't dared weigh myself so will assume I'm still fucked >:( >:( x100
8. Keep doing falling practise. - success. Done this every time I've been to the wall and it's starting to feel familiar. --- doing all the time, getting more comfortable, done a few 2-clip-skips at Ratho
9. Keep training CV at gym and micro-runs. - semi-success. Done this a reasonable amount, could do more though. --- upgrading this to a success as I've kept doing it over Autumn, and have had a few walks and runs where I've felt very slightly better - maybe a whole 5% improvement :w00t: ::) - for the first time in 5 years.
10. --- to be added later --- Let's say: Do some good routes in The Lakes. - success. Done some good routes in The Lakes! Still need to get to Raven and maybe Dow before my brain explodes from desire - fail, ran out of Lakes season.
Same as 3/4 term report. Bad on actual goals, quite good on actual climbing and also training. Bad organisation, report to detention after the bell.
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Started the year injured and sulking so didn't post in here as I didn't want to spread my negative vibe. Finished the year crocked too but taking the chance to rest while I repair.
Goals would have been:
8a - came close, fell of the top wall of HFC a number of times including the last move once
E4, specifically Resurrection hardly did any trad and didn't get to Wales. In fact haven't had a weekend away all year :o :'( :no:
Brad Pit didn't get going til April & got injured again in November so missed both grit windows
3:30 marathon got injured training for Spring event then couldn't handle the mileage in summer heat while training for an Autumn event
4lb Perch & double figure carp had an 8.5lb Carp which is a PB, Perch season underway, still hope for these
Despite the amount of red on the board this has been one of my most enjoyable and most productive years of recent times. Didn't quite get the 8-grade but did a fair selection of decent, hardish routes. Worked out my training at last, a few tweaks next year should see improvements again and if I can stay fit and healthy I'm optimistic that success will come.
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I started a trend now everyone is at it. ;) Joking aside there just seems there is an overwhelming amount of talking head content out there now. If there is a desire for more will do it. Maybe not the megastars - might be more novel to do interesting people I know - like zippy or john welford or Seb or Paul Reeve.
Dark horses - and people not trying to sell me something - would be interesting. Of course they are the most likely to say no but you can only ask.
I didn't announce my aims at the start of the year because number one was too scary! They were:
1. NIAD - Oh yes! I was quiet about this beforehand but it's been the focus of the last two years, perhaps longer. A very resonant goal. Like the most satisfying achievements, in doubt 'til the very end.
2. E5 onsight - nowhere near. Very little trad. other than polished granite cracks. Peaked at E3/4 for the 4th year running. The time I had allocated to trad. - high summer - I was in a post-Yosemite dip and not really syked for anything. Number one aim for 2015.
3. 7b RP - no cigar. Tried 3 and came close in a day last month, 7a+ OS for consolation prize. Unlikely but I've not completely given up for this year.
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This year I've done: Eavestone Wall, Crazy Paver, Equus, Psycho (a highball really), Whisky Wall ...
The year seemed to climax on Saturday in one of the best days I've had on rock ever which included an on-paper personal best for me - Track of the Cat.
Psycho is way harder than Track, and for me really impressive. Most highball slabby E5s on local crags I get wired and do regularly, but not Psycho. It's hard; good effort. I think Track is probably only E4 but it is a very special route - your experience is by no means unusual. There's something about the setting, something about the rock... and the moves just flow. Magic.
I'm a lanky git and I personally think that Fluide is a hard problem. I've done much easier 7C's in font!
Such as?
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Thank you for the kind words, JB. I'd agree that Psycho is more technically difficult but is probably only Font 6B (I've seen it billed as 7A elsewhere!) or something. The landing is perfect so with a few pads it's quite safe, even if you really don't want to fall off the last easy moves!
I tend to agree with you about the grade of Track. I wouldn't have felt hard done by at E4 5c; regardless of which, those tall spicy slabs have a way of focussing the mind which no other climbing seems to do.
That was me and Footwork (of Living With Wads fame/shame) at Tetris later. I hope your little one got their "MIIIIIIIIIILK" in the end! And that Peregrine, WOW!
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Will, I think there's always going to be problems that suit you and those that don't. There's no shame in doing the ones that do when you're new to the grade, and both those two are classics! Did you do any other 7B/C's this year?
(Fwiw I think Parker sit is nails and have not done it, not got around to trying Fluide yet.)
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This year I've done: Eavestone Wall, Crazy Paver, Equus, Psycho (a highball really), Whisky Wall ...
The year seemed to climax on Saturday in one of the best days I've had on rock ever which included an on-paper personal best for me - Track of the Cat.
Psycho is way harder than Track, and for me really impressive. Most highball slabby E5s on local crags I get wired and do regularly, but not Psycho. It's hard; good effort. I think Track is probably only E4 but it is a very special route - your experience is by no means unusual. There's something about the setting, something about the rock... and the moves just flow. Magic.
I'm a lanky git and I personally think that Fluide is a hard problem. I've done much easier 7C's in font!
Such as?
Vandale, La Berezina for a start. I thought Fluide was tricky.
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To have less injuries than this year.
Get in.
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Did you do any other 7B/C's this year?
No other 7Cs or B+s. A good year at 7B though! Crimpy Roof and Pistol Whip at "proper" 7B and also Bit of a Jerk, Bird Flu (think this might have been graded for a different sequence), and Buffy Wants Daddy.
Bird Flu is probably one of the best aretes out there and quite manageable if you use your feet properly and get the good sequence. Right foot on low smear, left hand on the arete, right hand on the low chicken head thing. Pull on and get left foot into the high diagonal smear, bump left hand, then do the most fantastic step through with the right foot onto a high foot jug close to the arete. Then MATCH the arete (absolutely briliant movement) and stand up, drinking in the subtelty of it all. Honestly one of the best problems on the Fell. Can't praise it enough!
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Where are Fluide and Bird flu? Can't look things up without YG...
Good to meet you Will, sorry about the squawker!
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Fluide is Brimham outlying and Bird Flu is Hen Stones.
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I didn't post my aims at the beginning of the year (in fact I probably hadn't posted anything on the forum at that point).
If I had they would have been fairly straightforward:
7B: tick tick fooking tick
Remain injury free: after a good 2013 injury-wise 2014 was disastrous: one a2 pulley strain, a1 rupture, lumbrical tear and collateral ligament damage plus other minor aches and pains. I've had two injury free months in 2014. A physio recently concluded that my dreadful shoulder stability is probably the main factor contributing to this litany so I'm working on that.
Do well in MSc and get a proper job or phd funding: first of the two done and some prospects for the second.
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- Become a solid 7A/B climber (method: Try harder in the gym , stop being a puss)
Climbed outside too much, became weak!
- Become a solid 7a/b climber (method: mileage -- get better at arranging belays and trips)
Success on all but one count. Got fairly solid on 7as and 7a+s , currently knocking them down in 2 to 4 attempts. However have yet to tick a 7b.
nope. but it seems irrelevant for route climbing at the 7th grade.
- Two chicks at the same time
might have to start looking into lucid dreaming
Pretty crap ticks but I'm pretty satisfied with my improvement.
A year ago I was flailing on 6c+ and even 6cs could give me trouble, had a shit lead head, tweaky fingers and couldnt climb slab to save my life.
This year I'm fairly solid on 7a/+ and am 100% injury free. life is good.
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I might get a session in next week, but the it looks grim outside at the moment.
1. As always try not to get injured. Nope, twisted knee, finger tendon, a few other niggles, managed to get back to my 2013 level in the autumn of this year.
2. Good few long weekends camping in Font in the spring. (If winter doesn't just turn into summer like 2013). Only one, injured my back, didn't leave the camp site.
3. Still plenty of places I've never visited to tick off in Font. Gorge du houx, Cuvier reconaissance, les mammouths etc etc. I've got really conservative this year, probably having less time available. I used to enjoy wandering around in bushes looking for some bit of rock that has long since disappeared under moss, now I like to just get climbing.
4. Grades wise any 6 in Font, 6C Indoors. First 2 6As ouside, very happy but more a psycological barrier that's given me a bit of confidence. Indoors has been a bit of a disaster; more good weekends means I've been out more since the summer, can't complain about that. My wall seems to fall into the trap of making all 6As flashable but 6B not even getoffthefloorable.
5. Highly optimistic week in the Peak on May, missus has already said 'no', we'll see! She said 'no', 'no' it was. Paris is expensive.
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Climb outside more than once a month.
Tick, went positively mad in September...
Climb an established boulder that's harder than 7A.
Nope. got sucked into the new again, no repeating this year..
Climb an established sport route that's harder than 7a.
Nope. 3 sport routes done this year, 2 6a and one multi pitch 6c
Climb more Trad routes than sport
Tick. climbed at least 10
Climb someone else's adventure route, preferably George Smith's.
Nope. All adventure routes were new ones..
Resist the lure of trying new routes.
Nope. Once an addict....
Reduce feeding the rat to a few new boulders, but climb more established ones than new.
Nope. I refer to the previous statment
Maybe allow the odd newbie highball....http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/giveaway-project-of-month-july.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/giveaway-project-of-month-july.html)
Not Really. All attempts are currently works in progress
Have Fun!
So on paper only 2 ticks out of 8. But I've had a lot of fun and Onsighted my 1st E5 (abet a new one) so Sucess! :2thumbsup:
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- Climb 8A+ Not this year, but also didn't have as much opportunity as I'd hoped, done some hard feeling stuff indoors though and think I could have been capable of it
- consolidate 8A. Only 2 from Rocklands but both under an hour and not feeling near max power, plus with some more indoors at the grade I'm pretty happy with this
- valiantly attempt an 8B Tried The Vice a bit, did the moves on the first day although after an hour and a bit of falling off armed response, went back a second time and didn't do as well and ultimately left it for another year. Felt good to try hard though and the only time on the trip I think I really did
- finish of some nemeses (i.e. don't fall off the top of berezina again) not a good year for this one, pretty sure the only place I went I'd been to before was stanage and only did new stuff there. Still, no font, no MW, just means more for next year
- Make it to Magic Wood. Nope, other trips used all the money, 4 weeks next summer though is the plan :)
- Go somewhere new. Rocklands and Kalymnos, pleased with those 2, wonderful places
- one armer on little crimp on beastmaker Aww yeah, tried for a laugh after a comp and a surprise board 8a and found it reasonably easy. cool to see progresson
- get flexibility back! meh...hard to tell progress, slightly better but still not what I want, lost some stretching discipline mid-year so will try harder next year
- at least a reasonable 2.1 for the year. Happy with that one
End of the year for me now but its been a good one climbing wise, didn't get to try the things I wanted to but feel way stronger than even this time last year and the summer was an enormous step forward from last year. 2 weeks of rest now and roll on the new year!
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Short term
Get the super secret project done - Really happy to get this done. No idea how hard it is/was but the longest and most fulfilling project I've ever completed.
Maintain current level while moving to new house and starting new job - Think I just about scraped this one. Good spring, lost a fair bit of form over summer due to lack of real aims but picked it up again towards end of autumn.
Go to font over Easter
Medium term
OS 20 E5s over the summer season - Couple of exceptions (Head Hunter, few things at avon) but basically didn't try anywhere near enough E5s
HP/ground up some E6s: A38, Bold as Love, Crimson Dynamo, A magenta Smudge - Did some E6's, mainly in the 'easy but scary category'. Questionable flash of Midnight Express at Avon was a particular highlight.
Consolidate at 7c+/8a: stuff at Brean, Academic, stuff at cheddar, Smashing of Amps - Added a few 7c+ to the ticklist but basically didn't try enough.
Climb at Avon Gorge and Trym Valley - Had a good spell of headpointing at avon and a couple of sessions at Trym. Still plenty left to do.
Long term
Repeat local hard boulder problems: stuff at Ladye bay, Tombstone, Gollum's cave (if i can stomach it!), stuff at Huntsham - Just didn't get round to trying anything. Too much to do, not enough time.
HP some E7s - To be or Not to Bolt at avon, probably more E6
Repeat some of the harder sport routes: Brean Topping, Shadow Walker, The Milky Bar Kid - Haven't tried anything very hard.
Tick all of the routes at Brean logged on UKC WIP
Looking a bit red up there but actually felt pretty productive.
Getting the super secret proj done was good at the beginning of the year then had a good spell of after work sessions in avon. Finished off the year with a cool trip to spain where i felt not-shit, a rarity for me on a sport climbing holiday. plenty of goals to carry through to next year...
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Trad: Onsight E4 consistently and get up a few major E5s onsight (Positron, Right Wall, Supersonic). Get back to Pembroke for a long weekend (only did 4 routes there this year). Headpoint a grit E6 (candidates, Wall of Sound, Salmon Left Hand, Slackers). Resurrection, Bloody Sunday, Minotaur, Trouble in Toytown flashed or onsighted. Have done quite a few E5s this year one way or another. Pembroke for only 2 days, but a great trip. Sunlover and Darkness at Noon ticked. Also headpointed Yukan II, a route I'd had in the back of my mind for ages, surprised myself with it falling into place quite easily. Did Salmon Left Hand the other week.
Sport: Flash 7b, redpoint 8a before I'm 30 (18 months). Think I'm good for both of these, just need to get the mileage and train carefully, specifically power and finger strength for 8a. Flashed 7b in Chorro (prob a soft one) but got up quite a few 7a+ routes onsight. Ticked more than average 7b+/7c routes this year and some of them much quicker than expected.
Make a training log to aid progress on this. Have training plan and sticking to it within reason at the moment.
Life: Finish PGCE successfully. Decide where I want to live! Still in Sheffield, got job.
Probably it for the year looking at the forecast, I might get a day or two in before New Year, but probably not anything significant.
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General
Regular training - join a London climbing club to increase opportunities to get out. Done - have met some great people in London and had lots of good days out!
Prioritise climbing outside over drinking/working! - done.
Sport
Get out to Portland/Swanage/Brean Down/Anstey's Cove - 3/4.
Climb 7c's/7c+ 1 7c - 4th go. 2014 turned out to be a year of onsighting.
Go to a new sport climbing holiday destination. - done. RADellar and Lleida
Trad
Onsight some more classic E4's - only 1 E4 this year.
Onsight E5 - 1 E5
Get out to Swanage/Sharpnose/Pembroke. - 2/3.
(rollover from last year) do Wall of the World, Right Wall and some other classic E5's. - Didn't get on either of the two named.
Bouldering
Check out SS bouldering...
Climb a font 7a+/V7 outside.
Climb a font 7b/V8 outside. - Basically zero bouldering this year.
Other
3.15 Marathon - Bailed on running, too much hard work.
(rollover from last year) Climb Freeborn Man - Jumped off due to fear on first days DWS.
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A mixed bag, Sport dominated this year and trad was sidelined after the summer trip to Ceuse was planned!
Boulder - 7B+
Nope, added a few to the 7A+ tally
Sport - 7c
Yes. 1 in Cheedale, 1 in Ceuse
Trad - try some E5s ground up
Dream on! Haven't done any trad all year
Some specific climbs - West Side Story, T crack, Suavito, Nosferatu, Strapadictomy, Jerrys roof, Ressurection
Whilst I had a few decent sessions on the boulder problems none were slayed, and trad just didn't happen
Trips - Bouldering in Fontainebleau and Torridon, sport climbing in Turkey
Fontainebleau Yes, Torridon No, Turkey sport became Ceuse sport.
and look after my tendons
Success
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move to a big house in S11 - kerching
lose a couple of stone - half a stone is better than none
stop whining about testicle, ankle, finger, back, toe or knee pain - mostly stopped whining, still grumble a bit
do something climbing related every week even if it means going indoors - not even close
go bouldering with others - enjoyed this
7C - ha hah ha ha ha haaah
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Routes:
Indian Summer (Kilnsey) - I have had 2 seasons on this and came close in 2012 but didn't get back on it last year due to injury. If I can maintain my current training, stay injury free and get some sessions on it in the spring I am confident it will go! - Nope, was injured for most of the Spring onwards so didn't really try it.
Work an 8c with the long term aim of completing this climbing ambition - I have tried Bat Route at Malham which was coming together but there was still a move on the headwall that felt almost impossible for me. May have another look this year. I will have a two short trips to try Fish Eye at Oliana in the next couple of months with a longer trip to try and get it done at Easter. I have been on this before and did all the moves quickly, it is just a case of having the fitness to recover in between the hard sections. - Didn't get back on Bat Route but had quite a few sessions on Fish Eye and made good progress. Was ultimately thwarted by hot conditions and lack of time. Maybe next year.
Flash/Onsight 8a - I came very close to flashing an 8a in Red River Gorge in October and flashed a 7c+/8a in Chulilla the other day. I am not too far off but just need to keep trying. - Only red pointed on my trips this year and was unlikely to do it in Britain.
Headpoint a good mountain trad route such as a Birkett route in the Lakes - I did Dawes Rides a Shovelhead a few years back which was amazing and would like to do something similar. I have tried If Six Was Nine briefly and would be keen to get back on that partners/weather permitting. - Didn't really try one. Living in London I rarely get access to the mountain routes and even when I do I find it hard to get a keen partner. Went to look at Nowt But a Flee'in Thing this year which would have been good to try but is a long walk in to convince a potential partner!
I would like to climb another big wall next year (Kyrgystan) so I would also like to do some bigger routes (Dolomites, Swiss Granite) in preparation if I can find the time! - Didn't do a multipitch/big wall trip in the end.
Bouldering:
No specific bouldering aims. I need to get my bouldering grade up to fulfill my route ambitions and maybe finish off some problems I have tried such as 36 Chambers at Tremeirchion. - Had a couple of sessions on 36 Chambers ss and made good progress (maybe finish it over Xmas) and did a few classics up to V9 in Wales I hadn't done. Did a V10 link in the cave as well so all in all not too bad.
It had felt like a disappointing year as I failed on my main aim which was to climb an 8c and I was dogged by injury for most of the year. However, when I look at the stats it was actually an above average year for me and I shouldn't be too down beat. I climbed my hardest or joint hardest route, I climbed more than my annual average number of 8th grade routes, I got solid at E5 again and also did a few boulder problems after neglecting trad and outdoor bouldering for a few years. When you become too focused on a particular grade or route it is easy to forget about everything else!
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Life:
Lose the 2 inches I've gained since November - Success but then put it back on again
Get new job - Success :D
Get married without bankrupting self - Success (mostly)
Bouldering:
Tick a 7a indoors - Got a 6c+ in Manchester, but still can't touch this at Craggy 2... so fail
Tick 5x 6b's outdoors - Pfffff
Related to the above, go outdoors more - Mostly yes, kind of, but things didn't quite go as planned
Following hot on the heels of the wedding, Mrs Durbs got pregnant (woo hoo!) which is ace, but unfortunately she got struck pretty hard with Hyperemesis Gravidarum for August, September & October, which meant I was playing nurse for most of the summer, so climbing dropped to once a week and only managed a couple of trips out on to the rock.
She's fine now (hurrah!), but now bouldering is still once a week as she can't come (doesn't want to fall and gets frustrated bimbling) so haven't really made any climbing progress.
But still, all in all - a shit hot year :D
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50 E points, (36 last year so shouldn't be to hard) smashed, 117
Get back to Gogarth sucess, mousetrap, red wall....
Go to more new crags, (Yorkshire, Lakes, Lleyn maybe) pretty good, scafell, boulder ruckle, pass, slate, Pembroke .
More sport climbing, try redpointing something in the 7B region. failure don't think I've clipped any bolts this year.
Sub 18min 5km 17.42
A decent length fell race. 6 fell races, two 19th place finishes
Good year, feel a bit disappointed for some reason.
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keeping things simple seemed to have helped a bit:
dont get injured: started out averagely with a few niggles, but been much better at keeping this under control, hopefully keep it under control next year
do more 8Asgoing to take this as a green, three definitely counts as a few right?
do something >8A+ despite three weeks in magic wood sessioning things this didnt end well, but got a much better understanding of trying things at my limit
stop going on trips for mileage and do something hard definitely a success, got some hard things done in ticino and might have failed in magic but at least tried
might not have succeeded in everything but all in all not a bad year
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The 2014 inquest.....
Routes
In general, get my stamina back to pre-winter levels (not tied on at all since early November) and carry on ticking at Malham and Kilnsey, specifically:
- Raindogs.... Raindogs.... Raindogs!
Job done early in the season - after not having tied on for around 5-6 months.... fitness is a myth!
- If not mentally ruined by the above, An.Other classic Yorkshire 8a (maybe Zoolook, the Bulge, or Subculture), maybe, if going very well, start to project a "soft" 8a+.
Followed up Raindogs with Baboo, The Bulge, Subculture, Cold Steal, Thumb, Urgent Action, Puppeteer, Drenka, and Complete Control. Annoyed that Zoolook held out though (in my last session before Winter retirement, I randomly slipped on the final tufas... Doh!)
- See off some unfinished business: Prime Evil at Chapel, Man With a Gun at Kilnsey (if it feels at all familiar).
Partial pass - I never got to Chapel, but I did finish off Man With a Gun and Dominatrix - bete noirs from previous years[/color]
- Fill in some gaps in my home-education - climb anything at Gordale, have a go at Mescalito.
Technical fail but maybe a spiritual pass. I never climbed at Gordale or got on Mescalito but I did do Dreamtime and Air Rage which had a similar status for me - lines I'd long eyed up but for some reason avoided - probably as they looked too much like hard work for the grade!
- Do some sport routes in Wales - I've never climbed at LPT, Dinbren, or any of the A55 crags - really must have a week there.
Abject fail.... only UK climbing outside Yorkshire was a weekend in Cheedale... and that was only because forced from Kilnsey by the Tour de France!
Bouldering
- Make an effort to visit some moorland grit (have a go at McNab).
Fail... virtually no bouldering all year - and the little I did was of the convenience type
- Likewise, visit Thorn Crag for the first time.
Fail... as above, only new crag I went to all year was Brownstones
- See off Ringpiece and maybe the Calf traverse.
Fail... despite, living a mile or two away. My feeling up for it, and the weather not being too cold and windy, never seemed to coincide. The traverse is particularly annoying - everytime I try it, I find I've forgotten the "feel" of how to get in to the tricky bit and have to spend the entire session re-learning rather than learning
[/quote]
So overall, a decent showing on the sport front, but I never really got going bouldering. I was also distressingly parochial. I must try to get to a few new crags - preferably in Wales (LPT, Dimbren etc). Or at the very least, go somewhere in Yorkshire other than Malham or Kilnsey. Maybe get my teeth into Supercool or something at the Hollywood Bowl.
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It's strange to look back at this post a year later. I'm writing from a hotel room in Hanoi, we have been on the road for nearly 5 months and had an amazing time so far.
2014 will be a bit different, as I'm leaving the UK in August for a 10 month 'round the world' trip with my girlfriend (YYFY). So I'm only setting goals up to August, beyond then will be a mix of climbing / travelling (and almost certainly no training). I'd like to be in the best possible shape by then to make the most of it.
- Get back to max sport fitness. Aim to start this immediately
- Be more structured / disciplined with training, use time at the wall more efficiently
- Stretch more
- Tick off some local projects - academic, high 7's at ban-y-gor, high 7's at witches point, some more 7's from my cheddar wishlist and a local 8a.
- A bit ambitious perhaps, but would love to redpoint an 8b and onsight a 7c
- Get consistent at 7b onsight
- Get to some of the local-ish crags that I've been meaning to visit for ages - ansteys, dinas rock, torbyran
- Stay uninjured
Overall not very successful - was climbing ok before leaving the UK, managed a short 7c+ at cheddar in an hour session but no 8a, despite coming close on the extension and on academic. As the year progressed, I ended up working long hours and spending a lot of time planning for the trip / life admin, so didn't get out a lot. Apart from a few days in Hampi, I've not climbed for nearly 5 months and feel like my body is deteriorating. I'm about the same weight, but feel flabby and week. We get to Tonsai in about 3 weeks time, I cannot wait to climb again but am also ready for a dent to the ego. Interested to see how it goes.
An amazing year, but not in terms of climbing!
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Stop getting so damn injured Have been carrying a collateral ligament injury for the whole year, still not totally fixed though it's almost there.
Redpoint 9a FAIL. 9a is quite hard. Rematch coming up in the Spring...
Onsight/flash 8b Wahoo! Had an aweseme onsight/quick tick trip in the Spring.
Progress
Bat Route
Hajj No UK sport climbing due to finger.
Burn Will off on the wave Don't think I climbed with Will on the wave, bet I would have done though ;)
Burn Stu off on the wave Don't think so. He didn't burn me off as badly as he could have done at the school though.
Find a new way to piss off large sections of the climbing community :P Need to work harder on this one
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Sport Ten 7th grade routesThree days sport climbing total, all in one trip to Portland in May when I was still suffering with my fingers. Did two 6bs, one onsight.
Bouldering Ten 7th grade problemsOnly started bouldering again in August and even then very gingerly. Post physio I got going again properly but didn't tick a 7. Highest tick all year was a 6C.
Trad Twenty E-points Despite climbing trad all year I only managed 11- can't blame injury for that. Did my first E2 though.
Given how far I came from hitting these targets it seems a bit mad to think that I even saw them as reasonable but I have to remind myself that in 2013 I did six 7th grade sport routes and three 7th grade problems so the trad one actually felt the most ambitious!
Literally the day after I set the goals I injured my finger really badly. It turned out to be far more of a problem than I expected- I only got a proper diagnosis in October after 10 months of thinking it was better, hurting it again, hurting the same finger on the other hand in the same way, getting depressed about it, etc.
There have been positives as well as negatives to seeing myself as a climbing invalid for most of the year though and despite failing miserably at these targets I have actually had an enjoyable and productive year.
Here's to 2015 and everyone on here achieving their goals! ;D
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1) Font 7C+.
- Fail, never got strong enough to make pulling on one worthwhile.
2) At least 5 7B+ and upwards (Underworld, Slopey traverse, Doris Direct, Ringpiece and Pit problem low start should cover it).
- Fail, didn't climb harder than 7A+ all year (if I even did 7A+).
3) At least 1 Font 7B abroad.
- Fail, closest attempt was a few decent goes on Carnage in May, tried again in October but had gone backwards considerably.
4) 2/3 trips abroad.
- 3 trips to Font, not exactly adventurous but still fun
5) More trips round the UK rather than just climbing grit all the time.
- 4 days in Wales in March, otherwise didn't really get out of Yorkshire bar a few trips to the Peak. Must do better.
6) Maybe actually tie on to a rope this year (slate looks fun...).
- Fail
7) Don't get another hernia.
- Think I succeeded at this one at least
Not a great year grades wise, too many niggling injuries to get any real strength back, but a lot of good problems done nonetheless.
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Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg (78/79kg lately) Heavier -82/83
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc. Lots of soloing on Idwel slabs, Cniefon Arete etc
Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year. Font for 5 days plus Plantation, Cratcliffe etc. First 6A and 6A+ in the forest, a few grit 6As too and all within a couple of goes. Made it to the Deliverence sidepull
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday) Flashed 3
Indoors V5 Nowhere near at Pinnacle
Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love :chair: Strong effort here - almost celebate
Get some more E1s 4 more, all slabs
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy) Got on E2 5c and E3 6a, no joy
Consolidate VS and HVS Dunno really. 2x5b,7x5a,12x4c tech pyramid but find grit HVS particularly hard despite having ticked 5 x E1 now
Sport
Onsight 6b A perfect Feb day - on limestone
Actually redpoint something What is this redpoint thing people do?!
Pretty pleased with this year despite the last six months being a washout due to rain or injury/illness.
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Stop getting so damn injured Have been carrying a collateral ligament injury for the whole year, still not totally fixed though it's almost there.
Redpoint 9a FAIL. 9a is quite hard. Rematch coming up in the Spring...
Onsight/flash 8b Wahoo! Had an aweseme onsight/quick tick trip in the Spring.
Progress
Bat Route
Hajj No UK sport climbing due to finger.
Burn Will off on the wave Don't think I climbed with Will on the wave, bet I would have done though ;)
Burn Stu off on the wave Don't think so. He didn't burn me off as badly as he could have done at the school though.
Find a new way to piss off large sections of the climbing community :P Need to work harder on this one
With regard your last goal, I may be able to help if the price is right.
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1. Get my swollen knee/leg fixed as it is currently like the limb of an elephant.
2. Get Louis Armstrong done.
1. Fixed my knee by about May after having a knee arthroscopy in Feb on a double meniscal tear. Took a while to get brave enough to fall off anything and a bit longer to pull on a left heel.
2. Didn't put the time in necessary. Had a few sessions doing it in overlapping halves and a couple doing laps of the crux move to finish. Going to try really hard and make the effort this year. Living so close, there really is no excuse for failure.
On a brighter note I ticked some good life goals... Won the fantasy footy 2013/14, bought a house in Glan Conwy (10 mins from Parisellas and with amazing views), got a pay rise, learnt to climb on pillbox (and how to crimp again) and got engaged! :)
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1. The project
2. Light Weight
3. Gaskins Pill Box problem from standup (note this will roll over to every subsequent year of my life though could walk feet flush to kicker in position for a long time. Next step the pullon).
A year of solid focus.
1. No, never got on it. Was climbed by a lovely lovely fellow a softer less direct way. Still hungry for it.
2. No, never got on it.
3. What do you think?
The goals completely changed early doors and managed to finally pass my driving test, sell out of my first whisky bottling and have moved into our first purchased amazing house. I'm really happy with how it all went this year despite essentially not climbing at all.
Was made redundant due to company closure at the end of the year. That completely sucked but have a temporary contract in a menial job for the short term and hoping a good day job comes back into play asap.
Here's to 2015 all!
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On a brighter note I ticked some good life goals... Won the fantasy footy 2013/14, bought a house in Glan Conwy (10 mins from Parisellas and with amazing views), got a pay rise, learnt to climb on pillbox (and how to crimp again) and got engaged! :)
Genius! Out of all those life goals fantasy footie comes 1st!! Waddage.
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Aims: there's no point putting down grade related goals as I'll spend all year chasing them anyway. So, less numeric goals:
The Quarryman. Didn't manage to get on it. I think finding a partner for this is the crux. Anyone interested?
Do as many of the things on my current list of unclimbed projects as possible. Think of good names (or bad puns) for them. Go exploring, and find rock that would actually be worth cleaning/climbing. Climb it. Cleaned and abbed more than I actually managed to climb but did manage some linkups at Cheddar and Forest Rock which I think were well worth the effort. Will have to move on to non-link-up projects next year.
F8a on trad gear.Nope. Wanted to try and get Point Blank done but a shoulder injury got in the way.
Try hard-for-me multipitch sport routes, in Chorro/Verdon.Two trips to the Verdon, and I love it. Best bit was explaining to people in the campsite that yes, we had a portaledge, and no, we hadn't got lost on the way to Yosemite....
Catch up with High Repute on 8a.nu bouldering. Stay ahead on routes. :boxing: Have given up on 8a.nu points as they are addictive. Suspect I'm nowhere near on bouldering though!