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Aims for 2014 (Read 87996 times)

Fiend

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#100 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 11:40:40 am
7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the County
What about: Romancing The Stone, Razor's Edge, The Dude, Gale Force, Black Orc, Powerhouse, Autumn Arete, Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton, Spanking The Monkey, White Matter, Retroclaim, Stretch Armstrong, Bowfinger, Slap Happy or Mugsy??

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#101 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 11:53:53 am
Call me a heretic, but I think Porty Prow is a bit log. Plenty of better probs about. find a good 7a clise to home if you want to seige something, Le Toit Du Col Du Mouton might be a good choice from fiend's list.

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#102 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 11:57:24 am
Aiming to get my first f7a+ boulder this year and keep injuries and niggles to minimum.
Anyone know of any spot on the grade and brilliant boulders to suggest?

rodma

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#103 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 01:17:49 pm
Accept that since I am getting on a bit, that my grip will never be the same as it used to be and try to remember this if/when i get some form back that I inevitably have to stop due to discomfort of some sort.

get strong again, last year was bad, this will involve staying away from local comps because they are way too bad on my hands (I only have one comp setting, which is pull too hard)

Deadlift 150Kg

pick and succeed on a project at either a resonable grade, or that is completely beyond my current skillset.

From last year's list, get euro-lean

stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.

Fiend

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#104 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 01:18:17 pm
Portlethen Prow is one of the very few good lines there, it is well worth doing. 90% of the rest can log off tho ;)

Jack.G

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#105 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 01:45:12 pm
I dont think the Prow is log but it is not that good either, def on the edge of being 6b+, Slap and Tickle is much better value for a classic Porty tick.

Fiend

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#106 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 01:56:58 pm
Slap and Tickle is probably harder....and the other good line there ;)

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#107 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 04:52:28 pm
Find some new routes in the Peak
8b Sport
7C+/8A
Try and concentrate at Uni
Actually get stronger instead of whining about being weak (ties in to 2 and 3)
Leave the top roping to hard/new things
Wales/Northumberland/Mournes - New places.

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#108 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 05:30:51 pm
Sorry Pebblespanker, should have been dishing out motivation rather than dissing the project choice.

I had the Prow on my hit list for years before I finally did, difficult to avoid looking at it when at Porty and a local must do. Took me alot of working and was my first 6c. A couple of really good moves that are so much better when they come together. It is inspiring and totally worth it, go get it !!!

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#109 Re: Aims for 2014
January 15, 2014, 05:34:05 pm
stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.

:D

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#110 Re: Aims for 2014
January 24, 2014, 08:38:39 am
stop being mean to younger climbers down the wall, even if they are grumpy-uptight-selfdelusional-posing-arseholes.

Become even more epically self-deluding, grumpy and uptight. Take my posing game to the next level.
Wouldn't want you to have too easy a time hitting your niceness goal rodma  ;D

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#111 Re: Aims for 2014
January 25, 2014, 11:35:35 pm
Headpoint a good mountain trad route such as a Birkett route in the Lakes - I did Dawes Rides a Shovelhead a few years back which was amazing and would like to do something similar.  I have tried If Six Was Nine briefly and would be keen to get back on that partners/weather permitting.

I would like to climb another big wall next year (Kyrgystan) so I would also like to do some bigger routes (Dolomites, Swiss Granite) in preparation if I can find the time!


i'm up for both of these John!

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#112 Re: Aims for 2014
January 26, 2014, 02:31:46 am
1.Buy a house

Motown

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#113 Re: Aims for 2014
January 26, 2014, 03:55:58 am

Get to and stay under 70kg
Onsight 7a+/climb 7b in any form possible on Easter Chorro trip
Build training wall somewhere
Not let Doha get me down
Jebel Misht next Christmas
All problems in sinkhole
Regular Skype/email/letter contact with family and friends
Summer 2014 trad - Interrogation, Zuma, Renegade, Widespread Ocean of Fear, Mercury, Mass Murderer, the Baldest, Dream Liberator
Be a good husband
Organise finances
Plan career change



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

DaveC

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#114 Re: Aims for 2014
January 28, 2014, 01:41:41 am
Being able to actually put a pair of climbing shoes on is the target - along with being able to stand up onto my toes. I can currently get one shoe on (the left) but the psoriasis under the nails on my right foot is still there so it's no go for that side. Arthritis around the balls of both feet is still keeping me fairly flat-footed but this has been slowly improving this last year and I have started riding again.

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#115 Re: Aims for 2014
February 09, 2014, 11:34:57 pm
Short term
Get the super secret project done
Maintain current level while moving to new house and starting new job
Go to font over Easter


Medium term
OS 20 E5s over the summer season
HP/ground up some E6s: A38, Bold as Love, Crimson Dynamo, A magenta Smudge
Consolidate at 7c+/8a: stuff at Brean, Academic, stuff at cheddar, Smashing of Amps
Climb at Avon Gorge and Trym Valley

Long term
Repeat local hard boulder problems: stuff at Ladye bay, Tombstone, Gollum's cave (if i can stomach it!), stuff at Huntsham
HP some E7s
Repeat some of the harder sport routes: Brean Topping, Shadow Walker, The Milky Bar Kid
Tick all of the routes at Brean logged on UKC

Fucking enormous tick on all fronts so far :D Three weeks in to the new job and regular wall sessions are well under way. Ticked the super secret project today, been getting out and doing hardish stuff pretty much every weekend. Booked up for 9 days in font at the start of easter.

Commence stage 2.

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#116 Re: Aims for 2014
February 10, 2014, 11:24:44 am
Spill the beans, what was the super secret project? If it doesn't seep then it must be the only climbable bits of rock around atm!

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#117 Re: Aims for 2014
February 10, 2014, 11:41:19 am
I was waiting for someone else to start ticking things off - nice work on the project.



Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. *Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg  (78/79kg lately)
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc.

Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year.
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday)  *Done - flashed it too
Indoors V5

Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love  :chair:
Get some more E1s
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy)
Consolidate VS and HVS

Sport
Onsight 6b
Actually redpoint something  :'( *start working a 6c on lead tonight

remus

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#118 Re: Aims for 2014
February 12, 2014, 12:22:31 pm
Spill the beans, what was the super secret project? If it doesn't seep then it must be the only climbable bits of rock around atm!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=302974

Dries pretty quickly as it's south facing and pretty sheltered from the worst of the weather. Get in there for a quick repeat :)

p.s. Don't suppose you know Jack Folland? Im living with him this year.

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#119 Re: Aims for 2014
February 12, 2014, 04:14:20 pm
Cheers, I'll get on it as soon as my knee is less injured!

(Don't think I do know him, but I'm terrible with names.)

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#120 Re: Aims for 2014
February 13, 2014, 02:19:01 pm
Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

Sloper

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#121 Re: Aims for 2014
February 13, 2014, 02:26:02 pm
Get down to 12st 10 (cues billious laughter from parts of Sheffield)
Climb more on the grit and cheshire Sandstone.
Have a good session in Font in July / August.
Work less.

Wood FT

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#122 Re: Aims for 2014
February 13, 2014, 02:42:49 pm
Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

may I suggest Dry Wit in a Wet Country over on RHS, technical 7A with a good height on it you're bound to remember (if it's your first you're best making it a good one)

SA Chris

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#123 Re: Aims for 2014
February 13, 2014, 02:57:27 pm
Worth asking elsewhere? In fact I'm a sure similar quesation has been asked before!

bigtuboflard

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#124 Re: Aims for 2014
February 13, 2014, 03:02:07 pm
Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

may I suggest Dry Wit in a Wet Country over on RHS, technical 7A with a good height on it you're bound to remember (if it's your first you're best making it a good one)

Looks good, thanks, can get there from home fairly quickly too on an evening. Judging from a quick photo i've found too it looks ideal for my style, finger strength and good footwork i am guessing up to the crack

 

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