move to a big house in S11
All very modest but hopefully achieveableGenerallose the blubber and get below 75kg as a minimum by Easter now at 73.7 from 79kg, still some blubber to goAvoid finger tweaks just started Maximals cycle on fingerboard... so far so goodComplete a full training cycle without work fcuking it up by working stupid hours away from home as happened repeatedly in 2013 Completed 8 week general strength cycle uninterupted and made good gainsSportFind a project 7a in the Angus areaRedpoint 6c+Onsight 6b+TradE1/2 would be nice as haven't done one since the 80's/90's and my return to climbing in the noughtiesDo some easy mountain classics Bouldering7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the CountyProw at PortlethenConsolidate at 6C/+Develop some of the projects in the southern CairngormsTorridon tripIrish trip to visit Glendo etcMore trips to the County and to grit one county trip so farOtherMore winter routes and lead my first Grade II/III One Grade 1 solo so far
Quote from: tommytwotone on February 25, 2014, 08:11:08 amQuote from: bigtuboflard on February 13, 2014, 02:19:01 pmSet myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for. I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!
Quote from: bigtuboflard on February 13, 2014, 02:19:01 pmSet myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for. I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?
Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for. I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.
I'd decided Seams Simple Enough was gonna be a 7a project too... feeling a little dispirited about it now Had been told it was soft, maybe 6c/+ but 6b? Rubbish.
Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.
After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused. -Rays Roof, so psyched for this -Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope-Pass all my law exams!
Quote from: Footwork on December 29, 2013, 02:23:11 pmAfter 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused. -Rays Roof, so psyched for this -Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope-Pass all my law exams! Managed the bulb in the first week of January Though the crafty heel above the head beta makes it feel hard 7c. Anyway, tick there but i'll replace it with ''Boulder another 7c+'' Curious yellow, Ben's Groove sit, to me to you and heaven in your hands are all contenders!
Once you get the bulb with your right and chip with your left, you place your left heel on a small dish just left and a bit below the pocket on the face. Should be fairly obvious from standing. Then go over with your left to the good hold above the bulb. Hope that helps!
Quote from: bigtuboflard on March 09, 2014, 07:41:14 pmDon't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.Thanks. Half of the appeal was the easier stuff around it... cheers for that.
Quote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying themSportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc. Remain uninjuredThus far
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying themSportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc. Remain uninjuredThus far
1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year...2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+. Have come off the last move so many times... Haven't been on it in a month or 2 now... Might have to wait until it gets proper warm again... 3. Put up at least 100 new problems. 23 so far!! Getting there! 4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing. Found 2 new areas today! So many more problems! Too many areas to choose from now...5. V7 in the Grampians.6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg.
Quote from: Yoof on March 03, 2014, 04:14:08 pmQuote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon Do well in uni. Some improvements, entering revision mode now Remain uninjuredThus far
Quote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon Do well in uni. Some improvements, entering revision mode now Remain uninjuredThus far
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon Do well in uni. Some improvements, entering revision mode now Remain uninjuredThus far
Quote from: Yoof on March 17, 2014, 12:11:20 pmQuote from: Yoof on March 03, 2014, 04:14:08 pmQuote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning Remain uninjuredThus far
Quote from: Yoof on March 03, 2014, 04:14:08 pmQuote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning Remain uninjuredThus far
Quote from: Yoof on December 24, 2013, 03:46:15 pmFirst time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning Remain uninjuredThus far
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. And some 7b+s!SportGet a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?Get good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealisticOtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning Remain uninjuredThus far
Seems a good topic for my first post Boulder - 7B+ Sport - 7cTrad - try some E5s ground upSome specific climbs - West Side Story, T crack ( (1 session, got close), Suavito (2 sessions, not very close), Nosferatu, Strapadictomy, Jerrys roof, Ressurection.Trips - Bouldering in Fontainebleau (Done, and ticked a few nemesis problems from my last trip) and Torridon, sport climbing in Turkey and look after my tendons
Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen…........Running:Highlander MM - Top three in Class - Fail - 12thSaunders MM - Win ClassSub 19 5kSub 40 10kSub 90 half ....
Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:Dolomites planned beginning of June; might be too early for good conditionsOberreintal planned July elsewhere in Alps e.g. Ecrins Kaisergebirge planned AugustUK trad excursion planned JulyFrankenjura: as regularly as possible. Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring Yesthen get on a 7a. soonBut also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s we're clear on "get on" ≠ "succeed", right?
1. Get my swollen knee/leg fixed as it is currently like the limb of an elephant.2. Get Louis Armstrong done.
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.Bouldering:Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateaueatswood TraverseFinish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)More 7bs. Getting super close to loadsSportGet a 7c outside Hohyboude in Switz. Given 7c+ by someGet good at onsighting close to limit againTradBasically do moreOnsight some E4sE5E6?OtherGet a beastmaker and do what the name says. Beastmaker has been put away, but rings have replaced it Do well in uni. Meh. Remain uninjuredThus far