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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Will Hunt on December 20, 2009, 06:35:31 pm

Title: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 20, 2009, 06:35:31 pm
Get more mileage on trad and start pushing from the comfort zone again. Would be nice to hit E2. HVS and E1 mountain trad essential!

Keep up the training.

Zeppelin in El Chorro.

Keep up the bouldering. A 7b perhaps?

Learn to aid, haul, jumar and clean etc in preparation for Yosemite.

Get back into cooking decent food.


Y tu?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on December 20, 2009, 07:01:42 pm
I love the fact that you posted this about 10 seconds before TTT posted his update on the Aims for 2009. Perfect timing!

For me

1. Finish off a couple of mid 7's I've not spent enough time trying
2. The Terrace
3. The Joker (possible, but not probable)
4. West Side Story
5. Buckstone Dyno - tried one day, should go next time
6. Sur-Prises (Isatis)
7. Any Font 8A (assuming failure on no. 3)
8. Go to St. Bees
9. Lose weight
10. Get stronger
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 20, 2009, 07:05:30 pm
1. Climb V12/8a+
2. Climb 8b+
3. Continue to train as i did for last 2 months of 2009
4. Maintain my weight at 10st 6. Seems to work. One or two projects might need a bit more trimmed off.
5. Buy another house
6. Go surfing more, and not be such a pussy at Fistral 5ft
7. End Of The Affair
8. Yorkshire Big 3
9. The Joker
10. Learn, and stick with Vegas pro to edit some decent short climbing films

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: soapy on December 20, 2009, 07:08:10 pm
4. Maintain my weight at 10st 6.

ha ha ha


ha ha


ha



:'(
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Stubbs on December 20, 2009, 07:36:15 pm
7. End Of The Affair


GU/onsight or stamp collecting?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: andy popp on December 20, 2009, 07:38:53 pm
I've never really set aims before (even in my head let alone in public) but I think I need to get focused nowadays if I'm ever to achieve anything again; so, here goes:

I can think of at least 10 good projects in Cheshire, ranging from the very feasible to the extremely unlikely, so I'd like to tick as many of them as possible. This is goal number one.

Be able to climb E5 in good style (again). Have just realized I first climbed this grade in 1983. It'd nice to still be capable of it 30 years later - not too long to go now.

El Rincon (or whatever its called) at Dinbren

Better get gout free then - this might require giving up drinking (though not quite yet)

Non-climbing: get that sabbatical and write, write, write!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 20, 2009, 07:51:37 pm
7. End Of The Affair


GU/onsight or stamp collecting?

Already top roped it, so no...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on December 20, 2009, 08:01:42 pm
This thread gets posted earlier every year- there's still 11 days left to tick the 2009 list!!

Mostly carried over (again):

1.  Buckstone Dyno
2.  The Rib (Burbage South)
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS
4.  West Side Story
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl) 
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.
8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)
9.  Clash of the Titans (St Bees)
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)

Quite keen to have a look at Ian's Arete (Gillercombe) too.  I never seem to tick more than 3 in any one year.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on December 20, 2009, 08:32:13 pm
I never seem to tick more than 3 in any one year.

I only ticked one! I've still got about half of yours from last year to go at.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Sloper on December 20, 2009, 08:35:27 pm
1. chop down the tree
2. do the project(s)
3. get down to 12st
4. get strong
5. do narcissus
6. err find some more esotic stuff
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Bubba on December 20, 2009, 09:17:12 pm

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: abarro81 on December 20, 2009, 09:19:27 pm
A year of two very different halves coming up.
Until June(ish) and the end of my physics degree/masters:
1. Staminaband and staminahumps
2. Press low right
3. Western eyes
4. Mecca??? Maybe substitute weedkiller-chimes, revelations and/or zeke for this since it might be rather optimistic. Or I could stick with trying stupid link-ups and try staminahumps into the full route.
5. Get a 1st
6. Train like hell - finally stop being weak, learn to shake out on monos and capillarise more than the rest of Sheffield put together to facilitate the big goals in 2010 Part 2...

Then a big fat euro trip to indulge in my favourite pastime of hanging on jugs, though I really must make myself redpoint more and am pretty psyched for spending some time at bouldering venues and trying some short n ard classics. With that in mind:
1. Redpoint 8b (a short one would be nice too - ideally La Rose, Nightmayer and/or Plan B)
2. Redpoint 8b+ (think I'll probably have to stick to longer stuff for this. Maybe Rollito Sharma or Kaela Borroka?)
3. Redpoint 8c, specifically Humildes Pa Casa since it looks mind blowing in the pics and vids (but I think I'm getting carried away here)
4. Onsight 8a and since I'm going for big goals let's aim for 5 of them.
5. Flash 8a+ (or, even better onsight)
6. Some nice foreign 8A(s)

Shit, that's a big optimistic list. Time to strap on the EMS machine and go eat cake lettuce.

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nik at work on December 20, 2009, 09:31:32 pm
Climbing;
1 - Pretty much the same as this year as I've failed to tick much
2 - Climb 8-something sport (if that's not already on the list from last year, I can't remember)
3 - 8A in Font as ever...

Not Climbing:
1 - Build my son a bedroom
2 - Build a sitting room
3 - Install a wood burner in said sitting room
4 - Design and build a wood burner boiler
5 - Design and build a secret door that looks like a bookcase
6 - Look seriously at solar water heaters
7 - Build some planting beds and get down with the homegrown vibe
8 - Learn something new (current options are playing the piano, French or sign language but we'll see)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: chillax on December 20, 2009, 09:42:39 pm
5 - Design and build a secret door that looks like a bookcase

 :thumbsup:

Climbing:
E3 at fair head.
Go to the burren and don't embarrass myself.
Go to pembroke more often and visit gogarth for the first time. (Generally try to get more trad mileage)
The Egg SS and The Fin in glendo.
Keep fingers in full working order.

Real Life:
Try to do well in my masters and not be the lazy cvnt i usually am.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fiend on December 20, 2009, 09:47:01 pm
Gosh this has crept up on me.

1. Meet some Scottish climbers who want to get out rock-climbing rather than winter climbing / mtn biking / indoors.

2. Keep getting my climbing fitness back.

3. Try to get as much of my general fitness back after crippling DVT and related vein damage this year (currently at 20% leg fitness maybe?)

4. Go abroad to Hatun Machay, Tenerife, maybe SA, and some of: Scandinavia / German Czech sandstone / Riglos or similar / Pedriza / Patones / Ireland.

5. Assuming my fitness returns, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Beinn Eighe, Garbh Bheinn, Stac Polldaih, East Buttress Coire Lagan, Bonaid Dohn, Aonach Dubh, The Cobbler, Creag Ghlas

6. And, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Lewis, Sarclett, Mid-Clyth, Latheronwheel, Murcurry, Inverthingy Rock Gym, Ardmair, Lochan Dubh, Loch Tolldaih, Tollie Crags, Rhubah Hunish, An T-Aigeach, Suidhe Biorach, Duntchellaig, Creag Dubh, Polldubh, Wave Buttress, Scoor, Erraid, Glen Lednock, Upper Cave Crag, Elephant Rock (it looks like an elephant!), Craig Stirling, Earnsheugh, various other Aber places, there might be a few more.

7. Tick big numbers.

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: northerngreg on December 20, 2009, 09:47:17 pm
1) Redpoint 8a
2) Paradise Lost 7a+,7b+ in Cheddar
3) Climb font 7b, in Font
4) Dispatch plenty of amazing lines in Font
5) Learn to plaster
6) Stick to training plan
7) Listen to my injuries for once!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on December 20, 2009, 09:49:22 pm

3) Climb font 7b, in Font
5) Learn to plaster

That's a superb combo for your elbows/shoulders!!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 20, 2009, 09:52:26 pm
Climbing wise:

1. Start climbing again as opposed to not doing anything.
2. Go to St. Bees more as it's only 30 mins away (Maybe more with the bridge problems we are having!)
3. Get at least 3/4 decent trips away in the UK. Doesn't sound that optomistic but aim low and achieve your goals.
4. Get back to the cobble and tear it down.

Non climbing:

1. Get diagnosed properly so I know what the fuck is wrong with me medically so I can start living my life again.
2. Get back on the bike and get fit.
3. Start running with the Keswick half marathon my aim to complete.
4. Keep off the fags (7 months now or thereabouts) and keep off the booze as well.
5. Finish the kitchen, porch and garden.
6. Buy some CD decks and tear it up.

That'll do I reckon.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 20, 2009, 09:57:29 pm
Goals for 2010:

- Avoid injury as in 09
- Pass practical test and get a car
- 7b+ sport climb
- Popcorn party
- T Crack
- Check out the new St Bees stuff
- Get to Northumberland
- Get to font in March
- Get to Switzerland and Italy in summer

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 20, 2009, 09:57:49 pm

1. Meet some Scottish climbers who want to get out rock-climbing rather than winter climbing / mtn biking / indoors.


Scottish climbers like winter climbing, expect them to do a lot of it over the winter. If I have any free time you know where I am, keep in touch.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: northerngreg on December 20, 2009, 09:58:09 pm

3) Climb font 7b, in Font
5) Learn to plaster

That's a superb combo for your elbows/shoulders!!

Yeah, I can't quite work out if it's going to ruin them or turn them into crushing machines! The course starts in Jan so I'll find out sooner or later!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Eddies on December 20, 2009, 10:19:14 pm
Holidays:
A week in Font
Back to Chamonix in Sep 
A warm sport trip towards the end of the year would be nice too.

Bouldering:
Maintain 3-days a week at the wall, introduce more structure.
Work on my weaknesses outdoors, HIGHBALLS!
Head out East more often

Touch
Stump Hole Cavern (first bit)
The Terrace
Play Hard
Kudos

Curb the Binge drinking/smoking (this ones the biggie)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: fatdoc on December 20, 2009, 10:28:58 pm
Put a rope on the shorties at the tor / rubicon that I never have done.

Lay my MTB flatish off a drop

get my knee well enough to do a 150 km sportive

lose 4 kg

do just god damn one of my grit bogey boulder problems ( about a dozen, basically break into 7b+)

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2009, 10:32:55 pm
Last years were: climb 8a+ route - done, 7B+ boulder - not yet but there's still a chance.

So, next year:
1) Grooved Arete. After the battle this year there is no way this one's getting away next year.
2) 8b route - unlikely, but just maybe, possibly Climb of the Century.
3) Boulder 7b+. Underhand, Howl at the Moon or Mick Adam's new thing left of High Speed Imp Act.
4) Try and get something done after June.

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2009, 10:34:26 pm
Goals for 2010:
- 7b+ sport climb

With your strength it should be 8b/8b+ not a measly 7b+. Man up Hession.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Eddies on December 20, 2009, 10:40:47 pm
5 - Design and build a secret door that looks like a bookcase
8)
My mates got one, but its actualy a real life book shelf too!!!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fiend on December 20, 2009, 11:22:42 pm

1. Meet some Scottish climbers who want to get out rock-climbing rather than winter climbing / mtn biking / indoors.


Scottish climbers like winter climbing, expect them to do a lot of it over the winter. If I have any free time you know where I am, keep in touch.
I know, they are freaks, all this good rock up here and they choose to grovel up frozen gullies under a waterfall of spindrift. Real men go bouldering instead :).

Thanks for the offer tho I do intend to get to Aberdeen, when it isn't snowing there too :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 21, 2009, 07:19:16 am
at the moment my main aim is to get a fucking job :boohoo:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Plattsy on December 21, 2009, 08:14:39 am
Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Nizza on December 21, 2009, 08:40:02 am
1)Get a full tme job so I can actually leave London on the odd weekend and go outside
2)Font C'etait Demain, Amok, Mandarin (Due to my shitty contract I have to take a break so not dependent on 1!)
3)Switzerland Massive Attack, Voigas (Second trip highly dependent on 1)
4)UK Manchester Dogs (if I have a couple of good months work prob not too dependent on 1)
5)Actually do some routes
5)Pay my debts off (highly dependent on 1)
6)Keep training as hard as this year (Not dependent on 1 as I have fuck all else to do when not working)
7)Get Huffy to come training more than once a month and to stop hugging men on the floor (After his recent success in the Man Hugging nationals probably the hardest goal of all)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Munkii on December 21, 2009, 11:37:20 am
ok while reading this please bear in mind i have only been climbing for a year and i am just a young'un.

1. use top rope only for long term projects

2.comfortably onsight lead 6b

3.redpoint lead 7a

4.onsight V3 consistently

5. redpoint V6

6. climb loads more outdoors.

7. onsight 6a outdoors

8. improve on climbing aretes

9. learn how to climb cracks

10. improve footwork and lock off ability
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2009, 11:54:16 am
How about learn to use Font grades ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on December 21, 2009, 12:01:42 pm
I think Munkii is demonstrating that it is easier to understand the difference between F7a and V6, as opposed to F7a and f7a, the latter being more confusing.
As such he has clearly demonstrated an understanding of the complexities of the grading systems and their interrelationships.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2009, 12:10:47 pm
After this year I'm just hoping to.........

1. Somehow find some time to train.

2. Not get injured.

3. Move house (so #1's probably out the window).

 >:(
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2009, 12:33:01 pm
I think Munkii is demonstrating that it is easier to understand the difference between F7a and V6, as opposed to F7a and f7a, the latter being more confusing.

Confusing to who???
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Nizza on December 21, 2009, 12:40:34 pm
After this year I'm just hoping to.........

1. Somehow find some time to train.

2. Not get injured.

3. Move house (so #1's probably out the window).

 >:(

I can help you with two of those, move to London, lose your job and work part time. 

The side effect of leaving your new house and attempting to do pretty much anything bar go for a walk will be hemorrhaging money, so all you will be able to do is train (don't expect to get many projects ticked outside though!).
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Falling Down on December 21, 2009, 12:52:12 pm
Goals for 2010:
- 7b+ sport climb

With your strength it should be 8b/8b+ not a measly 7b+. Man up Hession.

 :agree: c'mon Rich  :spank:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Ally Smith on December 21, 2009, 01:11:15 pm
In no particular order:
 - Left wall high
 - Rock Atrocity
 - Zoolook
 - The Prow in one
 - Fiesta de los Biceps, Riglos (anyone else keen?)
 - Euro trip of some sort and get some on-sight ticks; would like to get back to F7b+ and push on to F7c
 - On-sight E5 again
 - Subculture
 - Trio of hard trad at Nesscliffe
 - Nick's new route at Nesscliffe
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2009, 01:11:55 pm
I think Munkii is demonstrating that it is easier to understand the difference between F7a and V6, as opposed to F7a and f7a, the latter being more confusing.
As such he has clearly demonstrated an understanding of the complexities of the grading systems and their interrelationships.
I keep fucking telling people this but they i.e. Jasper won't listen.

If a mate says (vocally) "I went out and climbed seven-a today", wtf does that mean on first hearing?? Exactly, you have to ask or know the context beforehand as to whether they were bouldering or sport climbing. Whilst if they say "I went out and climbed vee six today" you know exactly what they've done. It's just common bloody sense but then again when I have I ever seen other people applying common sense to grading??  ::) :spank: :thumbsdown: ::) >:(

P.S. Ally yeah I'm keen to have someone second me up the harder pitches of Fiesta Del Riglos.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: willackers on December 21, 2009, 01:35:31 pm
Climb E8 and font 8b..........

 :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: slackline on December 21, 2009, 01:39:19 pm
If a mate says (vocally) "I went out and climbed seven-a today", wtf does that mean on first hearing?? Exactly, you have to ask or know the context beforehand as to whether they were bouldering or sport climbing. Whilst if they say "I went out and climbed vee six today" you know exactly what they've done. It's just common bloody sense but then again when I have I ever seen other people applying common sense to grading??  ::) :spank: :thumbsdown: ::) >:(

But then some people would qualify which activity they were doing at the outset because they're aware of the ambiguity that surrounds saying 'climbed seven-a' so would say something like...

Quote
I went out bouldering today and climbed a seven-a

...or conversely...

Quote
I was out routing today and climbed a seven-a
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2009, 01:46:26 pm
When are all these conversations happening where people only mention the grade of something they've climbed rather than what it's called, where it is, what it is etc?

Why would you be interested in hearing about it if they aren't going to tell you what they were doing and you have to guess just from the grade?

And that's the argument for V grades is it?

What utter nonsense you talk sometimes Fiend.  ::)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: slackline on December 21, 2009, 02:01:25 pm
I climbed Senza nome quite a few times in Sardinia  :P
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: BenF on December 21, 2009, 02:05:46 pm
Better get gout free then - this might require giving up drinking (though not quite yet)

Yeah sorry for giving you that bottle of Port.  Didn't really help you out that much did I?  Not that I was consciously hobbling you.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nik at work on December 21, 2009, 02:11:23 pm
I prefer Font grades to V grades. But I also think Munkii is a good egg and I wish him well in his aims for the year.

There's some pretty hefty aims floating about this year, of which I approve greatly.

Jasper get out house hunting in January, pick a house you like, buy it, move in, bish-bosh job done leaving you 11 months to "train", although I do think your time would be better spent getting out climbing :)

Crouch you arse, you should be doing 7b+ in rollerskates, even I've managed to drag my old, withered unfit excuse for a body up a 7c this year. You should be aiming for something significantly closer to 8b+...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Munkii on December 21, 2009, 02:35:11 pm
I prefer Font grades to V grades. But I also think Munkii is a good egg and I wish him well in his aims for the year.

thankyou, i didn't mean to cause a grade debate, v grades are just what i am most familiar with and is how the problems at my local centre are graded. from what i hear indoor grades don't count for much anyways.

James
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2009, 02:49:12 pm

Jasper get out house hunting in January, pick a house you like, buy it, move in, bish-bosh job done leaving you 11 months to "train", although I do think your time would be better spent getting out climbing :)


Thanks nik I didn't realise it was so simple. I'll rest easy now.  ;) January is already out of the equation for anything other than work unfortunately. We've got some bits and pieces to do on the house too and then it'll be full steam ahead. Not looking forward to it at all.......

The problem with "getting out climbing" is if I haven't got time to nip down the wall for an hour I certainly haven't got time to get out and in my current weakened state I'm nowhere near where I need to be in order to climb anything that I want to anyway. So if I DO get a bit more time then I'm better off using it in the most productive way in order to try to scrape back to some level where I can enjoy getting out or even start to think about planning a trip somewhere.

People may think I'm only bothered about training but that couldn't be further from the truth. Last year (not the one that's nearly finished) I didn't climb indoors or do any sort of training for months and spent the entire summer / autumn at Rubicon, Cragxbrooklyn etc even when it was monsoon season. I hate climbing indoors in comparison but them's the breaks at the minute. I've still not got back 50% of the strength I had before I repeatedly crocked myself and without some time at the coalface that's not going to change.

Sorry to ramble on but I just didn't want people getting the wrong idea and couldn't think of a succinct way of putting it.

Oh and don't worry Munkii - good luck with your goals and don't listen to Fiend.  :P
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: slackline on December 21, 2009, 03:35:26 pm
blah blah blah

.... without some time at the coalface that's not going to change.

blah blah blah


 :lol: (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12427.msg217122.html#msg217122)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Doylo on December 21, 2009, 06:14:09 pm
I just want to finish my Diamond project  :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: uptown on December 21, 2009, 08:06:04 pm
Goals for 2010:
- 7b+ sport climb

With your strength it should be 8b/8b+ not a measly 7b+. Man up Hession.

I second that, Just look for extended boulder problems and you'll be laughing.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 21, 2009, 08:25:45 pm
I hear ya fiend! My theory on winter climbing is that below grade V or VI its just a way for shit climbers to look hardcore. Or for people who want to go to Scotland and not get eaten by midges!

Most of it just looks like dry tooling on classic summer rock routes which have a thin as fuck coat of rime on them  :thumbsdown:


Punter away, Suckas!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on December 21, 2009, 08:49:20 pm
I've never led above VIII, so I probably shouldn't comment, however......

below grade V or VI

What a lot of arse.  Yes, there's some twats that go out to look cool but anything up to IV can be a nice solo or a quick ascent to the summit/descent.  There's some super classic routes in this grade range that make for superb days out- Curved Ridge, Crowberry, Aonach Eagach, The Curtain, Raeburn's Arete, Observatory Buttress Direct, Green Gully, Route Major, Combe Gully, NE Buttress, Morwind, etc etc

Besides, if you enjoy it and do it for fun (rather than to look cool), what the fuck?  Get out and do stuff you like.

Most of it just looks like dry tooling on classic summer rock routes which have a thin as fuck coat of rime on them  :thumbsdown:

Nope, this is just fuckheads doing stuff in non-winter conditions.  When I did Centurion it was proper Winter nick- I love the summer route and would never do anything to jeopardise it.  Again, some people are so desperate to get a tick they climb a route in crampons and claim a winter tick.  Fuck them, that's not the game.

Winter is great whilst it works.  After some bad experiences I quit, never to return.  Pour scorn all you like Will, but people still die on easy routes and the whole man v weather is not to be laughed at.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: tommytwotone on December 21, 2009, 09:14:42 pm
Get a room you two!

Mine for two thousand and ten / twenty ten / two thousand-ten (as my US colleagues have taken to calling it)...

First up, heal up from whatever I've done to my ankle. On that condition:

Climbing:

Cliff classics - Gypsy, Syrett's and especially Demon Wall Bloody Sodding Roof
Tear myself away from the Cliff and explore Yorkshire Grit
Climb a 7b..I mean a FONT 7b. Would be psyched if it were in the forest
Long John's Slab and Flying Buttress Direct, two that I never knocked off before I left
On the subject of old scores to settle - Breakfast
32 routes on my 32nd birthday

Non-climbing:

Get 10k time down to 47mins, might give a half marathon a crack as well
Get playing darts again, and get my three dart average up there over 50
Get to some more Spartans games
Save some money up so I've got a contingency fund
Go to NYC


Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2009, 08:43:22 am
Not the time and place, but Will you clearly do not have the vaguest idea of what you are talking about.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 22, 2009, 09:17:14 am
With your strength it should be 8b/8b+ not a measly 7b+. Man up Hession.

Aim low.. achieve!  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Durbs on December 22, 2009, 09:39:05 am
Slightly lower aims than you guys, but heck - still a goal :)
Doesn't help being in Surrey away from real rocks

~ Tick a 7A at Craggy2 (6c was this years goal, and only just managed one 6b...)
~ When in Font for 2nd time, get spanked less, climb at least 3 6a's
~ Take more falls when leading
~ Get one arm lock-offs on both arms
~ Build training wall at home

We shall see.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: rich d on December 22, 2009, 09:42:33 am
My main aim is to get up some font7as.mainly beechball at secret garden, attitude inspector at Burbage and trackside - although I plan on using all my lank for this.
I even have a training plan that I started last night.
 
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 22, 2009, 10:27:33 am
I hope it involves a combination of the following Rich...

(http://www.nightmare-mansion.com/sitebuilder/images/stretching_rack_1-556x368.jpg)
and
(http://www.crab.rutgers.edu/~alroche/3beefcake.gif)

 ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 22, 2009, 10:33:23 am
1. Write a book
2. Get competent at > Grade IV
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: cofe on December 22, 2009, 10:36:17 am
1. Write a book

<sound of whip cracking...>

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: dave on December 22, 2009, 10:38:59 am
1. keep fucking the idiots.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Bonjoy on December 22, 2009, 10:42:48 am

1. Write a book
You'd be alright if you were Elvis Costello, he writes one every day

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: uptown on December 22, 2009, 11:15:31 am
1. Learn to shuffle
2. Climb outside of Browntown
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 22, 2009, 11:44:58 am
2. Get competent at > Grade IV

Tired of being a "shit climber looking hardcore"?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 22, 2009, 12:41:38 pm
Not the time and place, but Will you clearly do not have the vaguest idea of what you are talking about.

I know!

I'm the only one of my main climbing mates who doesn't start scratching and sniffing at the door once it gets cold so I have to find some sort of stance to defend myself from. It looks like an alright laugh. Maybe sometime I'll have a go. Not for the time being though.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nai on December 22, 2009, 01:21:47 pm
Never logged my list of objectives in public before, hopefully putting it out there adds some motivation to get stuck into it.

Climbing:
Do a few of the problems that have been giving me a long-term spanking or that I've not been back to in years.  Small Is Beautiful, LIARD, Stall Arete, Oedipus, Acme Wall come to mind.
Crack font 7c.  The Terrace, DWR LH, Great White or The Keel would be nice but I'll take what's going.
Brad Pit, this might be more of a lifetime thing.
Get on more trad, tick off some of the classics that have escaped me, do E3 again.
Have at least one day climbing in the mountains, somewhere like Cloggy, Cryn Las or even Craig Yr Wsfa.
Climb indoors once less than 2009.
Go to font too late in spring to bother about climbing hard and just enjoy being in the forest doing circuits like the old days, take my girl around the kids circuits.
Do a one armer on my loft edge.

Non-climbing
Get my back sorted and get out running & riding again.
Take more photographs & improve my skills.
Lift the coveted ukb ffl trophy.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: rginns on December 22, 2009, 09:44:26 pm
As a general aim for 2010 carry on getting stronger and making time on the rock more focussed, i.e. tick more stuff in less time...also I'd like to get more multipitch mountain trad done, hvs competently, climb font 7a, add to the hangboard and actually use it...

Also get fit for font in Easter - main font aim is to tick some classic 6as/6bs, list yet to be compiled.

As for UK, these are mostly local carryovers from 09...

1 - Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones)
2 - Pickpocket's Crack (Widdop)
3 - Hacker start (Wilton 1)
4 -Verdinand (Brownstones)
5 - Burnt Heather (Thorn)
6 - Catfoot (Round Barn)
7 - Staffs Flyer (Roaches)
8 - Nexus dyno (Brownstones)
9 -Pond Traverse (Brownstones)
10 - Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones)
11 - Elemental (Thorn)
12 - Groundhog standing start (Brownstones)

(no.12 is ambitious...)

non-climbing:
put up fence
chop down trees in side garden
fix roof
new carpet...
better crop of vegetables, i.e. not just yellow tomatoes....
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: hairich on December 22, 2009, 11:08:07 pm
climbing

1 brad pit-hold onto the jug rather than keep missing it
2 la joker at cuvier- sessions on this now ,feels more like 7c rather than 7a
3 the joker stanage first font 8a holds felt good now just need to latch top

non climbing

1 try and repair the rift with the mrs and get back how we were
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on December 23, 2009, 04:07:45 am
Have at least one day climbing in the mountains, somewhere like ... Craig Yr Wsfa.
Is that near Craig Yr Ysfa (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=530)?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: grumpycrumpy on December 23, 2009, 07:35:07 am
Keep off the weight I've lost
Get some strength back

Traverse under Deliverance ..... 
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Nizza on December 23, 2009, 08:54:08 am
climbing

1 brad pit-hold onto the jug rather than keep missing it
2 la joker at cuvier- sessions on this now ,feels more like 7c rather than 7a
3 the joker stanage first font 8a holds felt good now just need to latch top

non climbing

1 try and repair the rift with the mrs and get back how we were

My guess is the last one will probably give you the most long lasting satisfaction, best of luck with it.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Falling Down on December 23, 2009, 09:03:22 am
Well said
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: csurfleet on December 23, 2009, 11:48:01 am
Okies lets give this a go.

- Consolidate at E2 and push onto E3, aiming to get Necromonicon sorted sometime in summer.
- Do more outdoor bouldering! Find some inspiring problems to get working on.
- Get a version of my training app released.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: match on December 23, 2009, 03:09:43 pm
Key 2010 aim - recover full use of left hand. Given this, then the following will do for starters:
1) Bouldering:
Peak - Deliverance, Boba Fett
Yorks - Sulky Little Boys, The Keel, Horror arete, Jerry's arete, New Jerusalem, Scary Canary, Millstone Grit, Red Baron, Fight on Black
2) A bit bigger: Adrenaline Rush, The Great Flake, Wall of Horrors, Downhill Racer, Wings of Unreason/Track of the Cat, White Wand, Left Wall (Brimham), Poseidon Adventure
3) And in other silliness: Silly Arete, Ichabod, Big Groove/The Moon, Lubyanka, Great Wall, Right Wall
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Monolith on December 23, 2009, 03:31:25 pm
1. Win the prize for best design in the year.
2. Secure the placement in a Ticino design studio I've applied for.
3. Get the fuck out of home.
4. Continue developing Fibonacci FM
5. Touch a female
6. Reduce social calendar commitments and convert them to rock climbing ones.
7. Lastly and most importantly, finish my project.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: petejh on December 23, 2009, 06:12:04 pm
I just want to finish my Diamond project  :)

I just want to get off this biff chit and start my Diamond projects.  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on December 23, 2009, 07:07:07 pm
Add Clever Beaver SS to the list  :goodidea:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on December 23, 2009, 08:19:26 pm
Lou Ferrino
South West ss
Jerrys Roof
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno
General Chersire sandstone crushing
Grooved arete
Comedy
Dominatrix
Belay the crouch on this 7b+  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 23, 2009, 10:52:08 pm
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno

These would be two big and impressive ticks. If you want to know some tips on gear for BM (if you haven't got them already) then highlight white text below for spoilers!

Anyway. That was too visible. Message me if you want to know.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on December 24, 2009, 06:07:35 pm
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno

These would be two big and impressive ticks. If you want to know some tips on gear for BM (if you haven't got them already) then highlight white text below for spoilers!

Anyway. That was too visible. Message me if you want to know.

Always considered it to be a solo. But thanks for the offer  :)
I know the crouch is keen for the haston dyno too  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 24, 2009, 07:11:09 pm
Fairy nuff. The crux is protectable though. Gear can be placed on lead without too much difficulty.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: AndyR on December 24, 2009, 07:27:01 pm
Reach a share price of a dollar
Catch some waist deep powder in NW BC
Climb Worm World Cave or ATD
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on December 26, 2009, 09:02:33 pm
Lou Ferrino done. to be replaced with crucial times (original start, if i can pull my weak ass of the deck)
South West ss
Jerrys Roof
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno
General Chersire sandstone crushing
Grooved arete
Comedy
Dominatrix
Belay the crouch on this 7b+  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: JohnH on December 26, 2009, 10:49:45 pm
Irish punter here, first time I've put any real thought into what I want to achieve for the year, feels strange to put them out into the open, ah well, all the more reason to achieve them I suppose!

Climbing:

Stay injury free, stay motivated and disciplined in terms of training, identify and more effectively train my weaknesses, get to as many new crags as possible

Bouldering- 7B+, go bouldering abroad for the first time, font in the autumn would be amazing, complete some unfinished business at home, put more effort into trying problems that don't suit me
Sport- redpoint 7c, onsight 7b, hopefully a trip somewhere new next winter, siurana maybe, get some stamina so I can string more than 10 moves together
Trad- really have to up the trad mileage, get out more consistently, stop my head from holding me back, E3 onsights, E4 onsight/ground up, a trip away if possible

Non climbing:

Stay focussed and maintain minimum 2:1 average in university
Start running more frequently
Sort out a decent job for the summer/part time job during college

Some pretty big goals for me, but I'm in the perfect position to achieve them, as I'll be studying in Boulder from January until May, YYFY, here's to a good year for all  :beer2:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 28, 2009, 08:31:52 pm
held back on posting for a while!

1 get my head around becoming a parent.

2 get to grips with beastmaker

3 surf more

4 boulder more

5 get at least one ski tour in

6 board black spout gulley on lochnagar or at least a grade 1 gully elsewehere

7 build board in garage

all a result of or dependant on item 1
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Houdini on December 30, 2009, 08:51:48 pm
#1  Eat better food.
#2  Drink better wine.
#3  Listen to more techno.
#4  Go to a warm place.
#5  Ignore all current affairs.
#6  Get a bike.
#7  Move out of the city.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: youngy on December 30, 2009, 09:21:10 pm
1 - Do five font 7a's
2 - Clever beaver
3 - go to font in march with crouch an crush
4 - get down to 12 stone
5 - be able to do a 1 armer
6 - do a 7a sport route

this year will be ther year  :dance1:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Doylo on December 30, 2009, 09:27:34 pm
#1  Eat better food.
#2  Drink better wine.
#3  Listen to more techno.
#4  Go to a warm place.
#5  Ignore all current affairs.
#6  Get a bike.
#7  Move out of the city.

Does that mean your moving back to wales houdini?  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: andy_e on December 30, 2009, 09:27:57 pm
You'll crush that list easy Mark!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 30, 2009, 09:34:31 pm

#4  Go to a warm place.


Is that "go to a place with a nice warm climate and stay there" or "pop down to the sauna for an hour"?

Either way; sounds good.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: soapy on December 30, 2009, 09:40:03 pm
"pop down to the sauna for an hour"?

Either way; sounds good.

add the happy finish and you've got my #1 to #10
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: robertostallioni on December 30, 2009, 09:44:02 pm

#4  Go to the warm place.


Trying for another already?

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Tommy on December 30, 2009, 09:44:57 pm
Aims for 2010:

Do my deadhanging project....

Nah, just kidding!   ;D

1. Get my grit route project done
2. Do the link up line in All Elements cave, Bath
3. The Sheep at Burbage....  ;)
4. Some more fucking awesome stuff at Gogarth. Fucking love that place, whatever grade.
5. Do Thai Boxing in Cham
6. The FA proj I failed on last year in Orco (hmmm, better start training)
7. Eat 3 cream crackers in a minute
8. Horizontal Pleasures, Pembroke
9. Laughing Arthur, Dorset
10. Go to Raven Tor at least 3 times. 
10a. Do fuck loads of upside down situps til I puke.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Tommy on December 30, 2009, 09:47:41 pm
10b. Visit Fiend as he always know's a good spot or two.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on December 31, 2009, 12:10:03 am
7. Eat 3 cream crackers in a minute
...
10a. Do fuck loads of upside down situps til I puke.

I reckon you could kill two birds with one stone here!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 31, 2009, 12:55:32 am
Last years were: climb 8a+ route - done, 7B+ boulder - not yet but there's still a chance.

try swing thing. It'll be over in 5 minutes either way and then you can go and have a nice cup of tea.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: benj_d on December 31, 2009, 01:08:14 am
Just climbing related...

-Climb more 7a+ to 7b+ problems since i've only done 2 7a+s and one 7b+

-Onsight E4  :jaw:

-Possibly climb a font 7c problem

-Get better finger strength by using the beastmaker properly instead of once ever 2/3 weeks  :yawn:

-Oh and of course.. climb outdoors more! (this being the most important)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Nibile on January 01, 2010, 11:49:27 am
i have an entire page worth of ticks!!!
anyway, climbing:
- train train train
- gain another half grade
- destroy font
- get back to uk bouldering's pleasures
- visit swizzy more often

non climbing:
- keep teaching
- keep loving it
- train train train
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Falling Down on January 01, 2010, 01:40:10 pm
Climbing goals
Visit some new crags and do a trip abroad.
Climb at Cilan and Doris
Boulder Font 7b
Redpoint 3 7c's
Get weight to 11 1/4 stone
Train regularly and carefully to avoid tennis elbow.

Non-climbing goals
Don't get exhausted and stressed because of work.
Run at least twice a week and stretch every day.
Blog more regularly.
Play my guitar lots.
Train our German Shepard.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: chriss on January 01, 2010, 02:07:30 pm
Do some nice 7's bouldering in OZ.
Surf loads in OZ.
Not get eaten/bitten by sharks, snakes, spiders in Oz.
Not to cook whilst running in OZ.
Do some nice 7's bouldering in NZ.
Do some nice 7's bouldering in USA.
Not get depressed at the thought of my mates having a blast at home or Font.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Gus on January 02, 2010, 11:35:06 am
Normally keep this sort of shizzle to myself but reckon its good to put it out there to add a bit of pressure/ psyche:

- Bench press 100kg
- Climb f8a+
- If achieve above, climb f8b
- Onsight/ Flash E7
- Do another E8
- Get back to Kalymnos
- Train at the wall instead of just climbing
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2010, 12:52:36 pm
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno

These would be two big and impressive ticks. If you want to know some tips on gear for BM (if you haven't got them already) then highlight white text below for spoilers!


I'll give you a tip. There isn't any.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2010, 01:06:27 pm
Sorry if that seems a bit harsh (really don't mean to be rude) but can't really conceive of any useful gear for the hard bit of this route. Sure the top is protectable but if you get that far it's not a big challenge to finish it off and climbing unencumbered is easier.
I'd stick a couple of big mats underneath and solo it when you feel ready.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on January 02, 2010, 01:26:19 pm
Sorry if that seems a bit harsh (really don't mean to be rude) but can't really conceive of any useful gear for the hard bit of this route. Sure the top is protectable but if you get that far it's not a big challenge to finish it off and climbing unencumbered is easier.
I'd stick a couple of big mats underneath and solo it when you feel ready.

no need to say sorry, its a valid opinion. one that i share. dont fancy hanging round playin with gear, when i could just man up and go for it. as soon as the wall is dry why not come and do it with me?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2010, 01:29:22 pm
I did once (in 85, no mats then) so will think carefully (!) about the invitation. And I'm injured right now (falling on ice, would you believe....)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on January 02, 2010, 01:42:17 pm
I did once (in 85, no mats then) so will think carefully (!) about the invitation.

nice one, did it get much traffic then? i dont know many people how fancy doing this (strange as the route looks amazing!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2010, 02:11:03 pm
Well it was a different era. Phil and Joe H ruled the place, and Joe Picalli and I were both after an ascent which we both did within a few weeks of each other.
Toproping was an accepted practise, but if you wanted to do the route you led(soloed) it. I must have toproped it 4 or 5 times first, but not that night, just got the bus after after school and went for it (yes, really). I'm more sensible (cowardly) now.
I still go to Pex but don't see much chalk on that wall. It used to get much more traffic in the 80s, because people aspired to lead the routes I suppose.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on January 02, 2010, 09:11:09 pm
People still aspire to do the routes, they don't man up and do them nowadays  :guilty:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on January 02, 2010, 09:40:49 pm
 :guilty: too

There is gear for the crux that'll protect the first 20-30 feet or so (having trouble remembering how far up it is now). In fact there's two bits and they can both be placed on lead reasonably easily.

It seems like you're dead set for a solo at any rate Meatball so I suppose it won't spoil any experience for you if I tell you that you can thread a nut over the top of two old bolts that lie just less than an arms reach from the line of holds.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 02, 2010, 10:33:40 pm
Hmm, hand-placed pegs or tiny tricam things? Thing is I know those holds fairly well and cannot recall any possible placement before the rock-over/udge-type move I'd call the crux about 20' up.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on January 02, 2010, 10:41:17 pm
Old bolt studs with no hangers. Much smaller (and a bit rustier) than you'd expect to find at Malham thought. Trust at your peril!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on January 02, 2010, 10:48:17 pm
I've seen some pretty rusty stuff at Malham. And poor bolts as well  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 02, 2010, 11:50:52 pm
Not sure about the time scale on these aims, but they are my aims and this is 2010

Drop a couple of stone
Boulder 7c
Beat my wife's score on Dr Kawashima's Brain Training on the DS
Play more some backgammon and win more often than a monkey could
Get perfect crackling every time


Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Yossarian on January 03, 2010, 10:40:39 am
Get fit
Do some bike racing - enduro, xc, etc
Lots more DH biking and some trips to Spain and the Alps
Get skinnier and bench press more
Buy another bottle of that Bruno Sorg riesling that I meant to post to Sloper but ended up drinking
Climb something vaguely remarkable (for me)
Finish various redecorating jobs
Finish turning my garden into a pseudo-Tasmanian forest
Develop new company into international design sensation, make lots and lots of money, promote a new series of Celebrity Cage Fighting - first episode - Alan Sugar and Duncan Bannatyne. 
Retire to Malibu
Buy a Dodge Charger
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Mike Lee on January 03, 2010, 10:10:14 pm
Get a degree
Get a job

Learn french
Go to Font

Climb a 8a route
Climb something on tunnel wall

Perfect handstand
Perfect juggling
(if achieved, try to combine with 2nd aim)

Sleep in the igloo i made the other day.

Buy some climbing shoes that are comfy compared to current.

Find a way to avoid cold feet whilst climbing and sleeping.

try not to get disillusioned with climbing.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: TobyD on January 05, 2010, 02:09:14 pm
1) properly rehabilitate stupid arm injury
2) famous grouse / blind fig / the storm (any one or all will do)
3) boulder more in north wales, and do some things that aren't really, really easy.
4) onsight more E6s
5) flash E7
6) climb 8a+
7) do Zoolook
8) be able to lock off on one arm
9) go and do more climbing in cornwall
10) go back and do all the routes i got rained off / beaten by condtions / weakness on in 09
11) do more physio work and stop wasting time on internet forums ....
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: thustler on January 05, 2010, 02:59:11 pm
1) Get my life going in some sort of direction.
2) Pass my driving test.
3) One arm handstand managed to get a solid handstand last year and i reckon this ones achievable!
4) Sort out my mountain bike.
5) Get out bouldering more.

theres so many more i want to put down, but there the main ones  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Steve R on January 08, 2010, 11:19:59 pm
I've got a fair amount of stuff I want to achieve this year but I'll try and keep it specific to climbing here:

1. Heal Elbows and don't get injured
2. Live in good places with good climbing. ie. most definitely not at my parents house in Hull.
3. Climb Moors Project
4. PB bouldering - so do a hard 7C or a 7C+ on paper but then you know when it's your new hardest I reckon anyway.
5. Get immersed and stuck into Trad again.  To put numbers to it, I'll aim for 3 one week+ trad trips to uk mountain and/or sea cliff areas.
6. PB sport - that'll be an 8a+ then (or a top end 8a)
7. Run sub 40min 10K
8. Close 250lb heavy gripper
9. 50 grit extremes in a day
10. Improve video and editting skills and produce 40/50 mins worth of coherent footage I'm pleased with.
11. Lakes Classic Rock routes in a day.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: youngy on January 13, 2010, 08:00:46 pm
1 - Do five font 7a's
2 - Clever beaver - done it today
3 - go to font in march with crouch an crush
4 - get down to 12 stone
5 - be able to do a 1 armer
6 - do a 7a sport route

this year will be ther year  :dance1:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Doylo on January 14, 2010, 12:49:40 pm
nice job on the Beaver la!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: JohnM on January 15, 2010, 11:51:23 am
Climbing aims:
Boulder 8A+
Route climb 8b
Onsight/flash route 8a (Probably in Spain, probably in Margalef!)
Do more trad/Go to Pembroke

Non-climbing aims:
Run a sub 40min 10km
Do the Fred Whitton challenge
Finish my PhD (doing all of the above is more likely than this one!)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on January 15, 2010, 12:25:45 pm
Finish Building the hadron collider in my garage (close but ran out of sticky backed plastic)
Find Riche Manic
Punch Lord Lucan
Design a perpetual motion machine
Split an atom using a mallet and a razor blade
Start my own religion and get it popular enough to rival Buddhism
Pass my Jedi Knight exams. Failed last time on multiple choice - chose "do not" instead of "do"
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Plattsy on February 01, 2010, 08:28:08 am
Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.

Tigger Tor time of 1:36:56 PB, taking 1min 22secs off last years time.
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: meatball on February 10, 2010, 06:12:33 pm
Lou Ferrino done. to be replaced with crucial times (original start, if i can pull my weak ass of the deck)
South West ss
Jerrys Roof no should this have taken 3 1/2 years YYFY
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno
General Chersire sandstone crushing
Grooved arete
Comedy
Dominatrix
Belay the crouch on this 7b+  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Plattsy on March 14, 2010, 08:27:07 am
Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.

Tigger Tor time of 1:36:56 PB, taking 1min 22secs off last years time.
 :thumbsup:

Knocked about 14 minutes off my Grindleford Gallop PB yesterday. Rocked in at 3:24:36.  :great:
Now to crack on with this 7A business.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Falling Down on March 14, 2010, 03:03:35 pm
Nice one Plattsy - a long race too!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Plattsy on March 15, 2010, 08:01:22 am
Thanks FD. I was determined not to crumble like I did last year.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on March 15, 2010, 11:22:34 am
I was determined not to eat too much crumble like I did last year.

:)

Nice one.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: youngy on March 30, 2010, 02:36:50 pm
1 - Do five font 7a's - 2 done in font 3 more to go
2 - Clever beaver
3 - go to font in march with crouch an crush
4 - get down to 12 stone  - 3 pound to go
5 - be able to do a 1 armer
6 - do a 7a sport route

this year will be ther year  :dance1:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on April 12, 2010, 12:56:10 pm
Get more mileage on trad and start pushing from the comfort zone again. Would be nice to hit E2. HVS and E1 mountain trad essential!

Keep up the training.

Zeppelin in El Chorro.

Keep up the bouldering. A 7b perhaps?

Learn to aid, haul, jumar and clean etc in preparation for Yosemite.

Get back into cooking decent food.


Y tu?

Tickety tick  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: sidewinder on April 12, 2010, 01:39:35 pm
Zeppelin in El Chorro.

Was it you I saw Thursday last week?  Saw a team of someone in a red and someone in a green coat, looked pretty nippy in the wind up there.  If so I may have a couple of photos of you, not guaranteeing they are any good though!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Plattsy on April 12, 2010, 01:50:08 pm
Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.

Tigger Tor time of 1:36:56 PB, taking 1min 22secs off last years time.
 :thumbsup:

Knocked about 14 minutes off my Grindleford Gallop PB yesterday. Rocked in at 3:24:36.  :great:
Now to crack on with this 7A business.

7A tick (I'll shut up about it now).

Not so psyched for my last aim so I may change it to 7A+ instead.

This is the first time I've publically aired my aims and although rather fearful of making a fool of myself I think that fear has spurred me on at times. Amazing what fear can do.  :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on April 12, 2010, 11:01:51 pm
Nah we did it on 1st April. Also a beautiful day when we did it though I can imagine it getting nippy up there!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 09:19:02 am
Fools.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Sean_J on April 19, 2010, 06:40:29 pm
First UKB post, so go easy on me lads.

Onsight Wall of Horrors
Onsight Wellington Crack
Onsight an E5 - Left Wall (Brimham) might be a good one

Do Block Buster - done the crux already then jumped off for some inexplicable reason, so I really should finish it off one day.

Onsight/flash f7b+, probably out in Spain where the style of routes suits me better.
Redpoint f8a in the UK

And just to put something (even more) ambitious on the list, the Yorkshire Triple Crown. Although if I manage to avoid gainful employment for another 12 months then I might just have enough time to train and redpoint to get it ticked in 2011!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Munkii on April 19, 2010, 08:58:24 pm
i can scrap all previouse goals untill i have completed this one.

come back from injury. :wall:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: i_a_coops on April 19, 2010, 09:30:01 pm
Never done this kind of thing, but I ought to be working so here I am.

Realistically, in order of decreasing likeliness:

7C on Southern Sandstone (preferably before Omar15)
7B anywhere else
Empire Of The Sun at Ansteys
Go to Raven Tor
FA something slightly tricky
Climb f7c
Don't let climbing get in the way of work
Lead an HVS


Unrealistically, in order of increasing ridiculousness:

f8a anywhere
The Cider Soak
8A on Southern Sandstone
1 4 7
do a one armer
Brad Pit
Ground-up Strapadictomy (bearing in mind I have currently led an utterly desperate VS 4c..... ages ago)
Don't let work get in the way of climbing

Bare minimum: don't get injured.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on April 19, 2010, 09:59:43 pm
Don't let work get in the way of climbing

There ya go, that's the best aim of all.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: rginns on May 25, 2010, 10:51:21 am
As we're nearly half way through the year it's about time for a punters update on the list...

1 - Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones) Frustratingly close, but no cigar, lack of lank the primary reason
2 - Pickpocket's Crack (Widdop) Crushed May 2010
3 - Hacker start (Wilton 1) Crushed March 2010
4 -Verdinand (Brownstones) Only tried this a couple of times, can get to the break so far
5 - Burnt Heather (Thorn) Not been up for ages
6 - Catfoot (Round Barn) ditto
7 - Staffs Flyer (Roaches) ditto
8 - Nexus dyno (Brownstones) Find this nails since the demise of the flake
9 -Pond Traverse (Brownstones) Not done it yet, but can now link every section, need to blast through...
10 - Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) see above re; flake demise
11 - Elemental (Thorn) Not been up for ages either..
12 - Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) Not tried, bridge too far at the moment
(no.12 is ambitious...)

non-climbing:
put up fence Done
chop down trees in side garden yep
fix roof erm...
new carpet... hohum
better crop of vegetables, i.e. not just yellow tomatoes.... yeah right

All in all a pretty mixed bag really, happy with the problems crushed, disappointed with the lack of performance in Font and the injury too. I feel the list may need expanding...

Anyone else?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 25, 2010, 11:11:35 am
Quote
Climbing wise:

1. Start climbing again as opposed to not doing anything. Going a lot more regularily these days.
2. Go to St. Bees more as it's only 30 mins away (Maybe more with the bridge problems we are having!) Been once this year...
3. Get at least 3/4 decent trips away in the UK. Doesn't sound that optomistic but aim low and achieve your goals. Been nowhere yet....
4. Get back to the cobble and tear it down. Getting there but its still standing at present....

Non climbing:

1. Get diagnosed properly so I know what the fuck is wrong with me medically so I can start living my life again. Diagnosed as IBS and working on diet. Feeling a lot better!
2. Get back on the bike and get fit. Not been used in 6 months due to illness but once rear wheel is fixed it will get used again.
3. Start running with the Keswick half marathon my aim to complete. Epic fail due to illness.
4. Keep off the fags (7 months now or thereabouts) and keep off the booze as well. Still off them, coming up for a year!
5. Finish the kitchen, porch and garden. Umm, still work in progress.
6. Buy some CD decks and tear it up. Epic fail also although I have been djing a lot more and loving it.

That'll do I reckon.

Fair to middling performance, still another 7 months of the year left though!

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fultonius on May 25, 2010, 12:05:30 pm
My aims for this year changed a lot at the end of Jan this year, when I snapped my PCL and PLC in my knee  :jaw:

On the plus side, it's reduced the list a little:

1. Fix Knee. Had the surgery 2 weeks ago, so that's part 1 of #1 complete   :dance1:
2. Keep going pull-ups and fingerboard to try to maintain some fitness.

At least I shouldn't forget what's on the list...  ::)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fiend on May 25, 2010, 12:07:53 pm
Gosh this has crept up on me.

1. Meet some Scottish climbers who want to get out rock-climbing rather than winter climbing / mtn biking / indoors. - kinda, have met a few welcoming people, albeit mostly from Aberdeen and Inverness rather than Glasgow where, apart from Gumclub, they're all in their tidy little groups...

2. Keep getting my climbing fitness back. - yes, working very well,  probably back to full fitness.

3. Try to get as much of my general fitness back after crippling DVT and related vein damage this year (currently at 20% leg fitness maybe?) - nope, have realised this is simply not possible as am restricted by blood flow not CV fitness. Am working around it.

4. Go abroad to Hatun Machay, Tenerife, maybe SA, and some of: Scandinavia / German Czech sandstone / Riglos or similar / Pedriza / Patones / Ireland. - yes to Tenerife, hopefully Scandinavia in summer, no to Hatun Machay and SA, not sure about the rest.

5. Assuming my fitness returns, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Beinn Eighe, Garbh Bheinn, Stac Polldaih, East Buttress Coire Lagan, Bonaid Dohn, Aonach Dubh, The Cobbler, Creag Ghlas - no but may get some a few of the closer ones.

6. And, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Lewis, Sarclett, Mid-Clyth, Latheronwheel, Murcurry, Inverthingy Rock Gym, Ardmair - yes!,  Lochan Dubh - yes!,  Loch Tolldaih, Tollie Crags, Rhubah Hunish, An T-Aigeach, Suidhe Biorach, Duntchellaig - yes!, Creag Dubh, Polldubh, Wave Buttress - yes!,  Scoor, Erraid, Glen Lednock, Upper Cave Crag - yes but need to go back, Elephant Rock (it looks like an elephant!) - yes but need to go back, Craig Stirling, Earnsheugh, various other Aber places - yes!,  there might be a few more - not yet to all the others.

7. Tick big numbers. - yes, maintaining a pleasing and enjoyable trad standard.

Pretty good so far. Have lots of desires for summer and need to keep organised and keep planning them.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on May 25, 2010, 04:06:41 pm
1.  Buckstone Dyno  Not been
2.  The Rib (Burbage South)  fell off the last move several times in greasy conditions
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS  Not been
4.  West Side Story  Not been
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)   Not been
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl)   Not been
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.  Not been recently
8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)  Felt harder than it did last year
9.  Clash of the Titans (St Bees)  Not been
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)  Still haven't managed this fucker, aaaaaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhh

Quite keen to have a look at Ian's Arete (Gillercombe) too.  Not been


EPIC FAIL!!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 25, 2010, 11:01:14 pm
Goals for 2010:

- Avoid injury as in 09 - Had a nagging left arm bicep/tendonitis style injury twice now this year = FAIL
- Pass practical test and get a car - Test booked for July - may happen
- 7b+ sport climb - Bought a harness and rope and flashed a 7a+ on my 1 trip out, will prob get on a 7b+ soon - possible
- Popcorn party - YYFY
- T Crack - Not been
- Check out the new St Bees stuff - FAIL
- Get to Northumberland - FAIL
- Get to font in March - Done! Had a boss trip
- Get to Switzerland and Italy in summer - Psyched still, Should be going end of Sep

Very poor to average year so far!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nik at work on May 26, 2010, 07:00:39 am
Climbing;
1 - Pretty much the same as this year as I've failed to tick muchFAIL
2 - Climb 8-something sport (if that's not already on the list from last year, I can't remember)GETTING CLOSE
3 - 8A in Font as ever...TICKETY TICK

Not Climbing:
1 - Build my son a bedroomIN PROGRESS
2 - Build a sitting roomIN PROGRESS
3 - Install a wood burner in said sitting roomTICKETY TICK
4 - Design and build a wood burner boilerIN PROGRESS
5 - Design and build a secret door that looks like a bookcaseIN PROGRESS
6 - Look seriously at solar water heatersIN PROGRESS
7 - Build some planting beds and get down with the homegrown vibeTICKETY TICK
8 - Learn something new (current options are playing the piano, French or sign language but we'll see)FAIL

I need to get crushing the sport route projects over the summer then hit the bouldering later in the year.

Non climbing aims are generally ticking along, albeit slowly...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on June 14, 2010, 07:32:58 pm
Get more mileage on trad and start pushing from the comfort zone again. Would be nice to hit E2. HVS and E1 mountain trad essential!

Keep up the training.

Zeppelin in El Chorro.

Keep up the bouldering. A 7b perhaps?

Learn to aid, haul, jumar and clean etc in preparation for Yosemite.

Get back into cooking decent food.


Y tu?


Barely left HVS territory in Skye. Best routes were probably The Klondyker, Spantastic and Trophy Crack. Boom!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: ferret on June 14, 2010, 11:12:39 pm
well didnt post at the start of the year but here is how they would hav looked.

climbing

finally do barefoot on sacred ground in hueco tick on of 2nd jan, so good start
climb more than 5 8a or above in a year 4 and counting, lookin good
papillon in font Fail, why are you always wet i hate you (love you really)
vague patatras in font Fail, fell off on 6a top out twice due to cold hands, why do you do this to me? i love you so much
conviction in font kertick, super fast with immediate repeat after slight dab on spotter 1st time round
any grit 8a tick, Sweet dreams in march, soft but so good
sidartha in squamish just had 1st session this year all the moves quickly + ok links, lookin good
any beautiful 8a in leavenworth been once no joy, probably unlikely but not givin up hope
sport climb 13a i still suck at sport climbing
sport climb 8a see above, not given up hope though
xaviers roof in bishop, looks better than bad sex not bin yet
beautiful gecko in bishop not bin, felt hard last year......
try and climb some 8a+ boulders despite barefoot (soft v12) dont feel any stronger than last year, looking doubtful

non climbing

convince my yank girlfriend that marriage is a good idea tick, woohoo, 1st aim for 2011 will be complete mountain of insane paperwork and hoop jumping required to do this
endless list of diy on my girlfriends house ripped kitchen out, refit should be finished in a few weeks, decent start

all in all going pretty well although doubtful for most of the remaining goals
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: youngy on June 15, 2010, 03:00:40 pm
1 - Do five font 7a's
2 - Clever beaver
3 - go to font in march with crouch an crush
4 - get down to 12 stone  - 3 pound to go
5 - be able to do a 1 armer
6 - do a 7a sport route

this year will be ther year  :dance1:


All my goals done :D well apart from the weight and a one armer but the realstic ones are done anyways

now for some new goals or just keep workin on harder stuff!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: ferret on June 16, 2010, 03:03:35 am
Quote
All my goals done :D well apart from the weight and a one armer but the realstic ones are done anyways

now for some new goals or just keep workin on harder stuff!

nope you gotta wait til next year for new goals, back to the one armer training and dieting  ;)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: a dense loner on June 16, 2010, 06:28:24 am
she said yes ferret? whats wrong wi the woman? she seems so normal

goals for this yr: cut down on coffee at the works, get ferret to actually see mates b4endless road trips. both unlikely
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Falling Down on December 31, 2010, 06:38:29 pm
It's that time of year folks, time to assess how "Vaulting ambition, which o'erleaps itself, And falls on th'other" has o'erleaped reality.

Climbing goals
Visit some new crags and do a trip abroad - Siurana great long wekend
Climb at Cilan and Doris FAIL
Boulder Font 7b FAIL
Redpoint 3 7c's FAIL
Get weight to 11 1/4 stone FAIL
Train regularly and carefully to avoid tennis elbow. YYFY - Feel 100% better than 12 months ago

Non-climbing goals
Don't get exhausted and stressed because of work. Did a pretty good job compared to previous years
Run at least twice a week and stretch every day. Sort of - learned more about fitness and conditioning this year
Blog more regularly.  Yes - although it's still an odd practice
Play my guitar lots. FAIL
Train our German Shepard. YYFY - she's turning into a lovely dog  :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: abarro81 on December 31, 2010, 06:54:08 pm
A year of two very different halves coming up.
Until June(ish) and the end of my physics degree/masters:
1. Staminaband Tick. Although belatedly and having presumed I wasn't going to do it this year, a run of form before my big trip sorted it out nicely.
and staminahumps Fail
2. Press low right Fail
3. Western eyes Didn't get on it
4. Mecca??? Maybe substitute weedkiller-chimes, revelations and/or zeke for this since it might be rather optimistic. Or I could stick with trying stupid link-ups and try staminahumps into the full route. Didn't even get on Mecca, but did some good PE 8bs in the peak plus Tuppence at Ansteys, which has the bonus of possibly being the best route I've done..
5. Get a 1st Easy
6. Train like hell - finally stop being weak, learn to shake out on monos and capillarise more than the rest of Sheffield put together to facilitate the big goals in 2010 Part 2...

Then a big fat euro trip to indulge in my favourite pastime of hanging on jugs, though I really must make myself redpoint more and am pretty psyched for spending some time at bouldering venues and trying some short n ard classics. With that in mind:
1. Redpoint 8b (a short one would be nice too - ideally La Rose, Nightmayer and/or Plan B)  Sorted
2. Redpoint 8b+ (think I'll probably have to stick to longer stuff for this. Maybe Rollito Sharma or Kaela Borroka?) Nope
3. Redpoint 8c, specifically Humildes Pa Casa since it looks mind blowing in the pics and vids (but I think I'm getting carried away here) Not a chance
4. Onsight 8a and since I'm going for big goals let's aim for 5 of them. Way too easy. 10 onsights and 8 flashes this year - well chuffed!
5. Flash 8a+ (or, even better onsight) Nope
6. Some nice foreign 8A(s) Not even tried any

Shit, that's a big optimistic list. Time to strap on the EMS machine and go eat cake lettuce.
[/quote]

Very pleased with how onsighting and flashing has gone this year, despite not managing an 8a+. Must work harder on the redpointing! Bring on Santa Linya...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: SA Chris on December 31, 2010, 06:59:09 pm
Hmm, same as most years, set low goals, fail to achieve.

held back on posting for a while!

1 get my head around becoming a parent. - Well kind of. It's a pleasant and unusual ride though

2 get to grips with beastmaker - Hardly - think I need to have something to train towards to get motivated to use it

3 surf more - Didn't do much, maybe only sightly less than usual

4 boulder more - FAIL

5 get at least one ski tour in - Did actually, but was intending it being lat winter, not early in this one

6 board black spout gulley on lochnagar or at least a grade 1 gully elsewehere - FAIL. Gutted actually, mates got it ticked, but I was tied up parenting.

7 build board in garage - came close, but we have decided we need to move house in new year, so on back burner for now
all a result of or dependant on item 1
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: i_a_coops on December 31, 2010, 07:04:45 pm
Never done this kind of thing, but I ought to be working so here I am.

Realistically, in order of decreasing likeliness:

7C on Southern Sandstone (preferably before Omar15) Fail
7B anywhere else 7B+ in t' Peak!
Empire Of The Sun at Ansteys Fail, not even been
Go to Raven Tor Yes, but only climbed on Pinches Wall  8)
FA something slightly tricky YYFY, DWS in Mallorca
Climb f7c 4 7cs and a 7c+, YYFY
Don't let climbing get in the way of work Well.... not until a couple of months ago!
Lead an HVS soft E6 onsight. Have now temporarily given up trad as I will kill myself otherwise


Unrealistically, in order of increasing ridiculousness:

f8a anywhere Fail, unless you count eliminate linkups on southern sandstone, which I don't.
The Cider Soak Fail, not even been to Anstey's
8A on Southern Sandstone Fail, unsurprisingly
1 4 7 YES
do a one armer x3, or on a 2 finger pocket. Look at me!
Brad Pit Fail
Ground-up Strapadictomy Fail, not even been
Don't let work get in the way of climbingwell... a bit

Bare minimum: don't get injured.YYFY

Well my 'in order of decreasing likeliness' thing was a bit off! Still... onwards and upwards?  :bounce:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Stubbs on December 31, 2010, 07:10:14 pm
You can do three 1 armers but can't climb 8A?  Kids these days....

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: i_a_coops on December 31, 2010, 07:15:16 pm
You can do three 1 armers but can't climb 8A?  Kids these days....

If you know of any 8As that require solely the ability to pull down 55kg on each arm 3 times, for the love of god let me know!

This is what living 3 hours drive from rock, without a car, does to you...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: benj_d on December 31, 2010, 08:15:45 pm
Just climbing related...

-Climb more 7a+ to 7b+ problems since i've only done 2 7a+s and one 7b+ Yep, done a few.

-Onsight E4  :jaw: haha, no, still at the dontwanttotryanythingovere2asimagirl stage

-Possibly climb a font 7c problem havent really tried any

-Get better finger strength by using the beastmaker properly instead of once ever 2/3 weeks  :yawn: ermm still a work in progress... :whistle:

-Oh and of course.. climb outdoors more! (this being the most important) Sort of.. just got a super economic car so that should help me get out more.

Not brill really but am happy and still have some goals there to carry on.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Sloper on December 31, 2010, 08:20:53 pm
My aim is to learn to ride the unicycle and speak german.

Unfortunately I've only 3.66 hours left and I' drinking so nein.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: rich d on December 31, 2010, 08:26:36 pm
Mine were to mainly climb peak 7a, like sloper I'm running out of time - and am drinking. Arse!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 31, 2010, 08:28:33 pm
1. Write a book Shit - epic FAIL. Need to make some time for this in 2011
2. Get competent at > Grade IV Totally crushed. Vs now feel pretty easy, plus done a few tech 7 pitches.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: GCW on December 31, 2010, 09:05:01 pm
Shit.
Achieved fuck all.
JB- keep at it, 8 isn't too hard really.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: soapy on December 31, 2010, 09:41:09 pm
My aim is to learn to ride the unicycle and speak german.

Unfortunately I've only 3.66 hours left and I' drinking so nein.

inversely, mine was to ride german and speak the unicycle

Bonne année et bonne santé

x
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Bubba on December 31, 2010, 09:58:57 pm
Lose weight...a lot of weight.
I didn't achieve many of my aims, but I did get on ok with this one, losing 30lbs towards the end of the autumn.

I've put a bit back on what with the festive season and a strong urge to eat when winter sets in, but it's straight back to it in 2011, the final goal being minus 37lbs.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: soapy on December 31, 2010, 10:18:37 pm
that's admirable bubbs, but discreetliasons, really??

it's liaison, ffs!!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Will Hunt on December 31, 2010, 11:34:37 pm
Get more mileage on trad and start pushing from the comfort zone again. Would be nice to hit E2. HVS and E1 mountain trad essential!

Keep up the training.

Zeppelin in El Chorro.

Keep up the bouldering. A 7b perhaps?

Learn to aid, haul, jumar and clean etc in preparation for Yosemite.

Get back into cooking decent food.


Y tu?

Not bad. Hopefully could get a 7b before the season's done. Got back to trad a bit and had a cracking time in Chorro.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Jim on January 01, 2011, 12:39:47 am
2010 was a poor year for climbing performance wise for me, did fuck all hard stuff.
enjoyed doing easy sport routes in the summer which was new to me so not bad in that respect.
Bring on 2011!
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: ferret on January 01, 2011, 01:08:54 am
well didnt post at the start of the year but here is how they would hav looked.

climbing

finally do barefoot on sacred ground in hueco tick on of 2nd jan, so good start
climb more than 5 8a or above in a year managed 5 so close
papillon in font Fail, why are you always wet i hate you (love you really)
vague patatras in font Fail, fell off on 6a top out twice due to cold hands, why do you do this to me? i love you so much
conviction in font kertick, super fast with immediate repeat after slight dab on spotter 1st time round
any grit 8a tick, Sweet dreams in march, soft but so good
sidartha in squamish 1st go 2nd session, bit sharp, but awesome flip completely upside down bicycle/heelhook above the head. syked
any beautiful 8a in leavenworth did a few nice v9s but was always too hot for owt else
sport climb 13a i still suck at sport climbing
sport climb 8a see above, got closer though and finally found a few im syked on (unfortunately at the end of the season)
xaviers roof in bishop, looks better than bad sex too short to do it the mega cool press way, too much of a wuss to do it the shorties mega sharp crimp way, but had fun trying
beautiful gecko in bishop quick session felt really hard (tho was 3rd day on) at least its gone up to v12 so i dont feel quite as bad
try and climb some 8a+ boulders did barefoot (soft v12)had a good session on angelina jolie (gufaw) so named coz it lookslike brad pit, reckon it would go in better conditons

non climbing

convince my yank girlfriend that marriage is a good idea tick, woohoo, 1st aim for 2011 will be complete mountain of insane paperwork and hoop jumping required to do this
endless list of diy on my girlfriends house complete kitchen refurb completed, much left to do tho....



not bad all in all, i guess i could hav done better but like most of us other comitments got in the way.. dam the real world
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nai on January 01, 2011, 08:08:34 am
Quote
Climbing:
Do a few of the problems that have been giving me a long-term spanking or that I've not been back to in years. Small is Beautiful, LIARD, Stall, ACME Wall, Oedipus.
Did Smail is Beautiful, LIARD & Charlies Overhang which should have been on the original list.
Failed on Stall again, bottled ACME on a scorching hot day and backed off Oedipus unable to feel my fingers at -6 or so.

Crack font 7c.  No.  Yes.  Maybe.  I did WSS which felt much harder than any of the 7B+s I've done, seems the ratio on the cash for grades (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16633.0.html) thread is about 3:2 in favour of an upgrade but it doesn't really matter either way as there's still others I want to try.

Brad Pit, this might be more of a lifetime thing. Only had one go on it, matched the flake - this year....

Get on more trad, tick off some of the classics that have escaped me, do E3 again - sort of, got distracted by the limestone, can't do everything.  Managed an E3 and did several off my really-should-have-done-before list.  Had quite a successful time on the lime though.

Have at least one day climbing in the mountains, somewhere like Cloggy, Cryn Las or even Craig Yr Ysfa - weather didn't play ball, did some good routes on Dinas Mot and Gogarth though

Climb indoors once less than 2009 - almost, did have one day as an evaluation day.

Go to font too late in spring to bother about climbing hard and just enjoy being in the forest doing circuits like the old days, take my girl around the kids circuits - had a good trip although nipper wasn't bothered about climbing, maybe too young

Do a one armer on my loft edge - Think I was confusing myself with a strong person

Non-climbing
Get my back sorted and get out running & riding again- FAIL
Take more photographs & improve my skills - FAIL, ended up selling my SLR kit and downgrading
Lift the coveted ukb ffl trophy- GET IN

Really good year, stayed pretty much healthy and injury free, done some of the best quality problems and routes I've ever done and had some great experiences.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Andy F on January 01, 2011, 10:05:49 am
Last years were: climb 8a+ route - done, 7B+ boulder - not yet but there's still a chance.

So, next year:
1) Grooved Arete. After the battle this year there is no way this one's getting away next year.
Dispatched
2) 8b route - unlikely, but just maybe, possibly Climb of the Century.
Didn't really try an 8b, just a quick play on COTC
3) Boulder 7b+. Underhand, Howl at the Moon or Mick Adam's new thing left of High Speed Imp Act.
Never got the opportunity
4) Try and get something done after June.
Yep, big success there

Overall, it was my best year ever. More 8's than before, 2 major projects ticked  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 01, 2011, 11:02:34 am
- Avoid injury as in 09 FAIL shoulder/bicep/elbow pains, finger injury then a rotator cuff to round off the year!
- Pass practical test and get a car Van! PASS
- 7b+ sport climb PASS Did a super short route at Kilnsey that got 7c so that will do
- Popcorn party PASS Went back to Ysgo and went down first try this year! What a shit problem
- T Crack FAIL Didn't actually go there
- Check out the new St Bees stuff FAIL Didn't go there
- Get to Northumberland FAIL as above!
- Get to font in March PASS Good trip + a bonus trip 3 weeks after!
- Get to Switzerland and Italy in summer FAIL Went to Dartmoor, then font again in September instead as rehab from finger pains!

It was good to get F8A+ and f7b+ ticked, sucked to be injured a lot! Passing my test and getting a van bodes well for 2011, where I can get to things more easily and often now :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: tommytwotone on January 01, 2011, 11:50:44 am
Get a room you two!

Mine for two thousand and ten / twenty ten / two thousand-ten (as my US colleagues have taken to calling it)...

First up, heal up from whatever I've done to my ankle. On that condition:

Climbing:

Cliff classics - Gypsy Yes, Syrett's not got on it and especially Demon Wall Bloody Sodding Roof No
Tear myself away from the Cliff and explore Yorkshire Grit Yes
Climb a 7b..I mean a FONT 7b. Would be psyched if it were in the forest No
Long John's Slab and Flying Buttress Direct, two that I never knocked off before I left No
On the subject of old scores to settle - Breakfast Still no!
32 routes on my 32nd birthday Not on birthday, but did the week before

Non-climbing:

Get 10k time down to 47mins, might give a half marathon a crack as well Double Yes! Abbey Dash in 47:00 dead, Great North Run done as well
Get playing darts again, and get my three dart average up there over 50 Fail
Get to some more Spartans games  Check, though weather intervened in Gainsborough clash
Save some money up so I've got a contingency fund  OK, but need to get a bit more
Go to NYC  Heck yes - a brilliant week away

In addition to the above I've also moved to Leeds - a big plus that I wasn't considering back in Jan. Better access to wall / crag should help with achieving some of the outstanding climbing goals!

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Bubba on January 01, 2011, 02:49:29 pm
that's admirable bubbs, but discreetliasons, really??

it's liaison, ffs!!
yeah yeah, I know but it's a common enough misspelling and the genuine domain had been taken already :)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Doylo on January 01, 2011, 03:11:48 pm
I just want to finish my Diamond project  :)

Failure and now i'm going to jump off the orme to teach myself a lesson.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Nibile on January 01, 2011, 03:56:12 pm
i have an entire page worth of ticks!!!
anyway, climbing:
- train train train YES AND NO, INJURIES.
- gain another half grade NO
- destroy font HELL NO
- get back to uk bouldering's pleasures DAMMIT NO
- visit swizzy more often WELL, 3 TIMES IS MORE THAN 1...
FANCULO
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 01, 2011, 04:31:05 pm
Good year all round. Pretty pleased. Progress with bouldering and routes. Also progress on trad.

1. Climb V12/8a+ did two
2. Climb 8b+ ticked, Dr Crimp
3. Continue to train as i did for last 2 months of 2009 Had spits and spurts training.
4. Maintain my weight at 10st 6. Seems to work. One or two projects might need a bit more trimmed off. Decided to only drop weight for big projects
5. Buy another house fail!
6. Go surfing more, and not be such a pussy at Fistral 5ft two trips. Scotland and Cornwall. Almost fail
7. End Of The Affair thwarted three times with weather
8. Yorkshire Big 3 Just managed 1. Urgent action
9. The Joker Almost
10. Learn, and stick with Vegas pro to edit some decent short climbing films Made a few i was pleased with

Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: fatdoc on January 01, 2011, 05:17:53 pm
just mainatained my own self worth... 7a in font.

rest of the year clinmbing wise... epic fail. TBF i just gave up for 6 months and went biking... first doubles  8), much better flow ;D

started to learn the basics of bodyboarding, fantastic fun

not needed the NHS all year...... big win  8)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: nik at work on January 01, 2011, 08:09:18 pm
Climbing;
1 - Pretty much the same as this year as I've failed to tick muchHad some good ticks including some pleasing and totally unexpected trad joy but nothing on the official to do list , a a failure tempered with notional elements of success, OK I failed and this should be in red...
2 - Climb 8-something sport (if that's not already on the list from last year, I can't remember)Fail, so near but so far, this year...
3 - 8A in Font as ever...Tickety tick

Not Climbing:
1 - Build my son a bedroomfail
2 - Build a sitting roomNeeds plastering and flooring but all built.
3 - Install a wood burner in said sitting roomSorted
4 - Design and build a wood burner boilerDesigned but not built
5 - Design and build a secret door that looks like a bookcaseDesigned and under construction
6 - Look seriously at solar water heatersLooked at them, may install some but probably not till next year (2012) as I can make more beneficial changes to the house first
7 - Build some planting beds and get down with the homegrown vibeCarrots, spuds, garlic, spring onions, courgettes, parsnips, strawberries
8 - Learn something new (current options are playing the piano, French or sign language but we'll see)Total complete fail
Had a good first half or so of the year, tailed off big time to a dreadful last couple of months. Actually got quite a few pleasing things sorted (both climbing and non-climbing) but typically most of them weren't on the tick list. Roll-over please...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: robertostallioni on January 01, 2011, 08:35:42 pm
Quote
2 - Climb 8-something sport (if that's not already on the list from last year, I can't remember)Fail, so near but so far, this year...

Frankly redonkulous.

Quote
7 - Build some planting beds and get down with the homegrown vibeCarrots, spuds, garlic, spring onions, courgettes, parsnips, strawberries

Keeping the beds a max of 5 feet deep, eh?
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: rginns on January 01, 2011, 10:21:51 pm
1 - Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones) Frustratingly close, but no cigar, lack of lank the primary reason
2 - Pickpocket's Crack (Widdop) Crushed May 2010
3 - Hacker start (Wilton 1) Crushed March 2010
4 -Verdinand (Brownstones) Only tried this a couple of times, can get to the break so far
5 - Burnt Heather (Thorn) Not been up for ages
6 - Catfoot (Round Barn) ditto
7 - Staffs Flyer (Roaches) ditto tried anf failed briefly
8 - Nexus dyno (Brownstones) Find this nails since the demise of the flake
9 -Pond Traverse (Brownstones) Not done it yet, but can now link every section, need to blast through...
10 - Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) see above re; flake demise
11 - Elemental (Thorn) Not been up for ages either..
12 - Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) Not tried, bridge too far at the moment
(no.12 is ambitious...)

non-climbing:
put up fence Done
chop down trees in side garden yep
fix roof erm... Done!
new carpet... hohum
better crop of vegetables, i.e. not just yellow tomatoes.... yeah right

2 out of 12 is pretty abismal even by my standards, although with the little one's arrival the last two months of the year were basically written off.
Here's hoping that I can get some routine in order to permit some climbing this year, but it's likely to be busy!
Roll on the crush...
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on January 01, 2011, 10:48:18 pm
I fear this may make depressing reading.

1. Finish off a couple of mid 7's I've not spent enough time trying Not sure I've actually tried any of them
2. The Terrace  Tried and failed
3. The Joker (possible, but not probable)  Didn't go as well as I'd hoped
4. West Side Story  I may've been avoiding this one
5. Buckstone Dyno - tried one day, should go next time   Can't even remember if I've tried it again
6. Sur-Prises (Isatis)   Tried and failed
7. Any Font 8A (assuming failure on no. 3)   Didn't really give myself a chance
8. Go to St. Bees  Yay. One tick!
9. Lose weight   EPIC FAIL
10. Get stronger   FAIL

I think I may ignore the 2011 version.
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Tommy on January 01, 2011, 11:51:44 pm

1. Get my grit route project done - PASS
2. Do the link up line in All Elements cave, Bath - PASS (Woohoo! Fucking finally!)
3. The Sheep at Burbage....  FAIL (Fuck the sheep. I'm not feeling the love)
4. Some more fucking awesome stuff at Gogarth. Fucking love that place, whatever grade. PASS

5. Do Thai Boxing in Cham - PASS (Another offwidth classic...)
6. The FA proj I failed on last year in Orco - FAIL (I'm still too weak)
7. Eat 3 cream crackers in a minute - PASS
8. Horizontal Pleasures, Pembroke - FAIL (didn't go down there)
9. Laughing Arthur, Dorset - PASS (in a slightly variant way)
10. Go to Raven Tor at least 3 times.  PASS
10a. Do fuck loads of upside down situps til I puke. PASS (love the sickness)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Drew on January 02, 2011, 12:09:50 am
Ummm... surely you mean


1. Get my grit route project done - PASS
2. Do the link up line in All Elements cave, Bath - PASS (Woohoo! Fucking finally!)
3. The Sheep at Burbage....  FAIL (Fuck the sheep. I'm not feeling the love)
4. Some more fucking awesome stuff at Gogarth. Fucking love that place, whatever grade. PASS
5. Do Thai Boxing in Cham - PASS (Another offwidth classic...)
6. The FA proj I failed on last year in Orco - FAIL (I'm still too weak)
7. Eat 3 cream crackers in a minute - PASS
8. Horizontal Pleasures, Pembroke - FAIL (didn't go down there)
9. Laughing Arthur, Dorset - PASS (in a slightly variant way)
10. Go to Raven Tor at least 3 times.  PASS
10a. Do fuck loads of upside down situps til I puke. PASS (love the sickness)
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Tommy on January 02, 2011, 01:23:32 pm
Ah yes, you're most correct! Despite doing Geography at Uni, I've clearly lost my colouring-in roots!!  ;D
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 04, 2011, 08:39:08 am
After this year I'm just hoping to.........

1. Somehow find some time to train. NOT A CHANCE. A RUBBISH YEAR FOR TRAINING AND/OR CLIMBING.

2. Not get injured. TICK!!. BUT ONLY COS OF THE ABOVE.

3. Move house (so #1's probably out the window). TICK!! THIS AND HAVING A LOAD OF WORK DONE ON THE NEW PLACE HAS BEEN THE ONE SUCCESS OF THE YEAR.

 >:(
Title: Re: Aims for 2010
Post by: Fiend on January 04, 2011, 09:06:49 pm
Continued from before:

Quote
1. Meet some Scottish climbers who want to get out rock-climbing rather than winter climbing / mtn biking / indoors. - Some improvement here, still got the most friends/partners in Aberdeen, but at last met some vaguely friendly Glaswegian climbers down at Dumby.

2. Keep getting my climbing fitness back. - yes, got full climbing fitness back, but found out it's hard to maintain and I need continuous activity.

3. Try to get as much of my general fitness back after crippling DVT and related vein damage this year (currently at 20% leg fitness maybe?) - nope, have realised this is simply not possible as am restricted by blood flow not CV fitness. Am working around it. Still very difficult although going to gym more.

4. Go abroad to Hatun Machay, Tenerife, maybe SA, and some of: Scandinavia / German Czech sandstone / Riglos or similar / Pedriza / Patones / Ireland. - yes to Tenerife, fail to get to scandinavia, rubbish, no to Hatun Machay and SA, fail on the rest too, must try a lot harder next year.

5. Assuming my fitness returns, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Beinn Eighe, Garbh Bheinn, Stac Polldaih, East Buttress Coire Lagan, Bonaid Dohn, Aonach Dubh, The Cobbler, Creag Ghlas - nope, only got to Aonach Dubh and that was hideously exhausting.

6. And, climb in Scotland at as many of the following as I can: Lewis - no - THE plan for next year, Sarclett - yes but need to go back, Mid-Clyth - yes but need to go back, Latheronwheel - yes!, Murcurry - yes!, Inverthingy Rock Gym - yes!, Ardmair - yes!,  Lochan Dubh - yes!,  Loch Tolldaihyes!, Tollie Crags, Rhubah Hunish, An T-Aigeach, Suidhe Biorach - yes but need to go back, Duntchellaig - yes!, Creag Dubh - yes but need to go back, Polldubh, Wave Buttress - yes!,  Scoor - no, Erraid - no, , Glen Lednock - no,, Upper Cave Crag - yes Elephant Rock (it looks like an elephant!) - yes, Craig Stirling - yes but need to go back, Earnsheugh - no, various other Aber places - yes!,  there might be a few more - not yet to all the others.

7. Tick big numbers. - yes, maintaining a pleasing and enjoyable trad standard. Also did okay flashing sport and redpointed harder than previous years
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