[Gus]

Normally keep this sort of shizzle to myself but reckon its good to put it out there to add a bit of pressure/ psyche:

- Bench press 100kg
- Climb f8a+
- If achieve above, climb f8b
- Onsight/ Flash E7
- Do another E8
- Get back to Kalymnos
- Train at the wall instead of just climbing

[mrjonathanr]

Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno

These would be two big and impressive ticks. If you want to know some tips on gear for BM (if you haven't got them already) then highlight white text below for spoilers!

I'll give you a tip. There isn't any.

[mrjonathanr]

Sorry if that seems a bit harsh (really don't mean to be rude) but can't really conceive of any useful gear for the hard bit of this route. Sure the top is protectable but if you get that far it's not a big challenge to finish it off and climbing unencumbered is easier.
I'd stick a couple of big mats underneath and solo it when you feel ready.

[meatball]

Sorry if that seems a bit harsh (really don't mean to be rude) but can't really conceive of any useful gear for the hard bit of this route. Sure the top is protectable but if you get that far it's not a big challenge to finish it off and climbing unencumbered is easier.
I'd stick a couple of big mats underneath and solo it when you feel ready.

no need to say sorry, its a valid opinion. one that i share. dont fancy hanging round playin with gear, when i could just man up and go for it. as soon as the wall is dry why not come and do it with me?

[mrjonathanr]

I did once (in 85, no mats then) so will think carefully (!) about the invitation. And I'm injured right now (falling on ice, would you believe....)

[meatball]

I did once (in 85, no mats then) so will think carefully (!) about the invitation.

nice one, did it get much traffic then? i dont know many people how fancy doing this (strange as the route looks amazing!

[mrjonathanr]

Well it was a different era. Phil and Joe H ruled the place, and Joe Picalli and I were both after an ascent which we both did within a few weeks of each other.
Toproping was an accepted practise, but if you wanted to do the route you led(soloed) it. I must have toproped it 4 or 5 times first, but not that night, just got the bus after after school and went for it (yes, really). I'm more sensible (cowardly) now.
I still go to Pex but don't see much chalk on that wall. It used to get much more traffic in the 80s, because people aspired to lead the routes I suppose.

[Andy F]

People still aspire to do the routes, they don't man up and do them nowadays 

[Will Hunt]

  too

There is gear for the crux that'll protect the first 20-30 feet or so (having trouble remembering how far up it is now). In fact there's two bits and they can both be placed on lead reasonably easily.

It seems like you're dead set for a solo at any rate Meatball so I suppose it won't spoil any experience for you if I tell you that you can thread a nut over the top of two old bolts that lie just less than an arms reach from the line of holds.

[mrjonathanr]

Hmm, hand-placed pegs or tiny tricam things? Thing is I know those holds fairly well and cannot recall any possible placement before the rock-over/udge-type move I'd call the crux about 20' up.

[Will Hunt]

Old bolt studs with no hangers. Much smaller (and a bit rustier) than you'd expect to find at Malham thought. Trust at your peril!

[Andy F]

I've seen some pretty rusty stuff at Malham. And poor bolts as well 

[lagerstarfish]

Not sure about the time scale on these aims, but they are my aims and this is 2010

Drop a couple of stone
Boulder 7c
Beat my wife's score on Dr Kawashima's Brain Training on the DS
Play more some backgammon and win more often than a monkey could
Get perfect crackling every time

[Yossarian]

Get fit
Do some bike racing - enduro, xc, etc
Lots more DH biking and some trips to Spain and the Alps
Get skinnier and bench press more
Buy another bottle of that Bruno Sorg riesling that I meant to post to Sloper but ended up drinking
Climb something vaguely remarkable (for me)
Finish various redecorating jobs
Finish turning my garden into a pseudo-Tasmanian forest
Develop new company into international design sensation, make lots and lots of money, promote a new series of Celebrity Cage Fighting - first episode - Alan Sugar and Duncan Bannatyne. 
Retire to Malibu
Buy a Dodge Charger

[Mike Lee]

Get a degree
Get a job

Learn french
Go to Font

Climb a 8a route
Climb something on tunnel wall

Perfect handstand
Perfect juggling
(if achieved, try to combine with 2nd aim)

Sleep in the igloo i made the other day.

Buy some climbing shoes that are comfy compared to current.

Find a way to avoid cold feet whilst climbing and sleeping.

try not to get disillusioned with climbing.

[TobyD]

1) properly rehabilitate stupid arm injury
2) famous grouse / blind fig / the storm (any one or all will do)
3) boulder more in north wales, and do some things that aren't really, really easy.
4) onsight more E6s
5) flash E7
6) climb 8a+
7) do Zoolook
be able to lock off on one arm
9) go and do more climbing in cornwall
10) go back and do all the routes i got rained off / beaten by condtions / weakness on in 09
11) do more physio work and stop wasting time on internet forums ....

[thustler]

1) Get my life going in some sort of direction.
2) Pass my driving test.
3) One arm handstand managed to get a solid handstand last year and i reckon this ones achievable!
4) Sort out my mountain bike.
5) Get out bouldering more.

theres so many more i want to put down, but there the main ones 

[Steve R]

I've got a fair amount of stuff I want to achieve this year but I'll try and keep it specific to climbing here:

1. Heal Elbows and don't get injured
2. Live in good places with good climbing. ie. most definitely not at my parents house in Hull.
3. Climb Moors Project
4. PB bouldering - so do a hard 7C or a 7C+ on paper but then you know when it's your new hardest I reckon anyway.
5. Get immersed and stuck into Trad again.  To put numbers to it, I'll aim for 3 one week+ trad trips to uk mountain and/or sea cliff areas.
6. PB sport - that'll be an 8a+ then (or a top end 8a)
7. Run sub 40min 10K
8. Close 250lb heavy gripper
9. 50 grit extremes in a day
10. Improve video and editting skills and produce 40/50 mins worth of coherent footage I'm pleased with.
11. Lakes Classic Rock routes in a day.

[youngy]

1 - Do five font 7a's
2 - Clever beaver - done it today
3 - go to font in march with crouch an crush
4 - get down to 12 stone
5 - be able to do a 1 armer
6 - do a 7a sport route

this year will be ther year 

[Doylo]

nice job on the Beaver la!

[JohnM]

Climbing aims:
Boulder 8A+
Route climb 8b
Onsight/flash route 8a (Probably in Spain, probably in Margalef!)
Do more trad/Go to Pembroke

Non-climbing aims:
Run a sub 40min 10km
Do the Fred Whitton challenge
Finish my PhD (doing all of the above is more likely than this one!)

[SA Chris]

Finish Building the hadron collider in my garage (close but ran out of sticky backed plastic)
Find Riche Manic
Punch Lord Lucan
Design a perpetual motion machine
Split an atom using a mallet and a razor blade
Start my own religion and get it popular enough to rival Buddhism
Pass my Jedi Knight exams. Failed last time on multiple choice - chose "do not" instead of "do"

[Plattsy]

Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.

Tigger Tor time of 1:36:56 PB, taking 1min 22secs off last years time.
 

[meatball]

Lou Ferrino done. to be replaced with crucial times (original start, if i can pull my weak ass of the deck)
South West ss
Jerrys Roof no should this have taken 3 1/2 years YYFY
Onsight Black Magic
Haston Dyno
General Chersire sandstone crushing
Grooved arete
Comedy
Dominatrix
Belay the crouch on this 7b+ 

[Plattsy]

Goals for 2010:

January - June.
Climb 7A.
PB in the Tigger Tor.
PB in the Grindleford Gallop.
PB in the Tigers Todger.

June - December.
1st 6 months of a year long sabbatical.

Tigger Tor time of 1:36:56 PB, taking 1min 22secs off last years time.
 

Knocked about 14 minutes off my Grindleford Gallop PB yesterday. Rocked in at 3:24:36. 
Now to crack on with this 7A business.