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Surely font grades take into account technicality?? Otherwise all slabs would get very low grades… ?
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« Last post by andy moles on May 10, 2024, 08:00:48 am »
I think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).
To me this is a bizarre dichotomy and not one I'd ever even considered. For one thing, you can't fully separate strength from technique - the ability to execute a tricky heel hook requires core strength as well as coordination, for example. No amount of brute strength is going to get you up certain things without at least a reasonable application of technique, and the same vice versa, so it seems self evident that both count towards the grade.
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« Last post by Oldmanmatt on May 10, 2024, 02:58:01 am »
Have you done any accounting? This seems extremely unlikely from the small exposure I've had to finance and accounting.
Helping Randall to hide the McLaren on the Lattice accounts? 😂
That's a legitimate business expense right?
If you plaster it with huge Lattice logos, probably. Squirrel!👉
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« Last post by Nemo on May 10, 2024, 01:57:07 am »
@Andy Moles:
I guess I asked for that with the way that last post started, which didn't really come out right.
Anyway, "stuck in grumpily" feels a bit more appropriate than "striking out boldly".
And this started out as one conversation in a different thread, and then got split out to a general thread about E grades. So, sure, I broadened the discussion out a bit.
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One thing I find very appealing about the trad grading system is how it incorporated the difficulty, the exposure, the security, the danger etc
I think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).
I'd love it if we had a bouldering grade system which incorporated other elements.
I disagree, it's hard enough to get multiple people to agree on a grade as is. Things like technical skill required are even more subjective since for example what might be a piss heelhook for one person could feel desperate for another. Grades are only a rough guideline at best anyway, and trying to grade based on factors other than how hard it is to execute the boulder relative to other bouders of a similar style is just adding unnecessary layers of complexity imo.
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« Last post by Will Hunt on May 09, 2024, 11:19:27 pm »
Water companies, whether privatised or not, will have the same income streams
I think your example of Tideway is the exception rather than the rule. And in that scenario the government isn't actually borrowing the money, it's backing it. Governments can borrow at lower rates but will they borrow, or rather, will they enact the legislation in the first place that means they will have to borrow. (2022 estimate for delivering the storm overflows bit of the Environment Act is £178bn, so add some inflation onto that. Source: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/624460a18fa8f527744f0655/storm-overflows-evidence-project-march-2022-addendum.pdf). I'm not really arguing for or against privatisation, but I wish that people wouldn't talk about nationalisation like it's some silver bullet that will fix everything they don't like about the water environment. I'd love people to have clear ideas of what their aspirations for watercourses are, to know what it would take to get there, and to be cognisant of the challenges and implications (delivering the Environment Act is going to release A LOT of carbon. A LOT.) of getting there. I think the press have let the public down badly on this front. Just my opinion.
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« Last post by Teaboy on May 09, 2024, 10:46:13 pm »
Governments since have been able to enact the WFD and now the Environment Act (which, as I've said before, is a mind bogglingly costly thing to implement) and not had to worry about borrowing the money themselves to finance it, that's the water industry's problem.
And in the case of the £4.5 billion investment for the Thames sewage tunnel they solved this problem by getting the govt to back the required loan giving the private company preferential loans rates whilst passing the risk on to the public sector. Water companies, whether privatised or not, will have the same income streams the difference being a nationalised industry would be spending all of that on delivering a service whereas a privatised one would spend it on delivering a service plus dividends to shareholders (£57 billion so far IIRC)
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« Last post by Lopez on May 09, 2024, 09:23:30 pm »
Worked a fair bit with the tutus lately and got no complaints, which is good. Stiffens a bit but nothing too crazy, it turns into a twisty nghtmare of snakes fighting spaghetti monsters if you don't take precautionary steps and a bit of care (judging by ropes provided by some outfits) but it's fine if you do (judging by the new set i claimed for myself remaining sane for several weeks of use). Not overtly heavy either. On the light front, i have a 9mm Edelrid performance that i really like. Goes somewhat stiff with use but that's a good thing on a skinny rope to help avoid tangles. They do a canyoneering version which will probably replace my vintage old one when it's time to retire https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/edelrid-pintail-lite-9-mm-static-rope/
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« Last post by mrjonathanr on May 09, 2024, 08:52:03 pm »
Thanks, I will!
Gogarth, but hopefully it'll last a few years so..maybe..
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« Last post by Fultonius on May 09, 2024, 08:48:11 pm »
Herbrides?
Much of a muchness from the ropes I've used. We destroyed one rope (that I got end of a reel from Heightec) a few years back. Sent it back and they couldn't see any issue with it. End the end we decided it must have been sharp belay devices (Petzl Reverso is known for getting quite sharp from running in guide mode a lot).
So....moral is - check your belay device.
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