Anyway, like I said, I've not really been able to work out what is actually at stake in this thread, so who knows.
I quite like the french use of obligatory ( 7b(6c+ obl) for that. Letting you know you can frig it 😁
One thing I find very appealing about the trad grading system is how it incorporated the difficulty, the exposure, the security, the danger etcI think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).I'd love it if we had a bouldering grade system which incorporated other elements.
I think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).
Surely font grades take into account technicality?? Otherwise all slabs would get very low grades… ?
Quote from: Duncan campbell on May 10, 2024, 08:22:38 amSurely font grades take into account technicality?? Otherwise all slabs would get very low grades… ?Yeah, exactly. I've never even heard of the idea that technicality doesn't count towards the grade.
Quote from: Wellsy on May 09, 2024, 10:52:41 amI think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).To me this is a bizarre dichotomy and not one I'd ever even considered. For one thing, you can't fully separate strength from technique - the ability to execute a tricky heel hook requires core strength as well as coordination, for example. No amount of brute strength is going to get you up certain things without at least a reasonable application of technique, and the same vice versa, so it seems self evident that both count towards the grade.
That has been the opinion given to me by lots of experienced boulderers. I personally think it should and it's stupid if it doesn't, and worse than that it would appear to apply in some cases and not in others, but it's definitely not unusual to hear. In fact the first people who took me outside said, the grade is about physical difficulty, not technical demand.
Anyway an E-grade like system for bouldering would nicely show the difference between say, Gritstone Megamix and Mermaid that 7A and 7A does not.