UKBouldering.com

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by Doylo on Today at 07:34:45 pm »
Paul Robinson is the other end of the scale.
2
Because with one arm you can rotate in to a more powerful position?

In addition to the more powerful position (getting more “under” the grip with a more inward rotated arm position), there seems to be some consensus that a uni-lateral load has some neurological advantages over a bi-lateral one and thus you would be able to pull harder. 

I think this is why IIRC Tommy/Lattice said on one Podcast that they recommend uni-lateral Max Hangs for really advanced and otherwise maxed-out athletes, as it allows them to create some higher load and thus extra stimulus.
And referring to habrich’s point above on the relationship btw 2-arm and 1-arm max hanging finger strength scores, I assume that Lattice would also have some side-by-side benchmarks on how these compare to each other, as their regular test protocol is 1-armed, vs. their test protocol coming along for free with the test rung (as in the “my fingers” space on their site) seems to be 2-handed.

Anybody got any experience with that / could share their own values of how 2-handed is comparing to 1-handed?
For me it is (not tested on an original Lattice rung, but on well rounded 20mm edge from the wooden Rokodromo hangboard), half crimp @68kg BW

# 1-arm ( 5 secs): - 7 kg, so 61kg absolute load (for stronger arm, but with both arms being roughly at same level, within 1-2 kgs)
# 2 arm (5 secs): + 36 kgs, so 104 kg total load
=> Which makes my 2 arm load only 1,7 times the 1-arm load (104/61), as opposed to habrich’s roughly 1,6 factor (95/60 ).

Anybody has got any further reference values for this?
3
shootin' the shit / Re: celebrity sorta-climbing videos
« Last post by andy popp on Today at 03:02:47 pm »
Dave Lee Roth!
4
bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by gme on Today at 03:00:56 pm »


Great psyche vid. BigJimmys my favourite to watch. Quality.

I would go further than that and say he is one of the very few americans i can watch or listen to.

This problem looks the nuts; great that the hardest problem stateside looks so good. The latest font offering left me cold.
5
The French generally seem to have a different attitude than the "moah fingeboarding/deadlifting"  kick that the entire English speaking climbing world is on. When I was in Ailefroide a few years ago I picked up a special "how to climb better" edition of Vertical with that was focused on just that: how to actually climb better, not how to get stronger. Had articles on various aspects of technique, including unfashionable-outside-of-Font subjects like footwork on slabs. It was excellent, I still dip into it occasionally.

Nothing on how to blow chalk off your fingertips without dropping your Gauloise though.
6
shootin' the shit / Re: celebrity sorta-climbing videos
« Last post by andy_e on Today at 02:57:57 pm »
I used to climb with Eli Dingle.
7
chuffing / Re: Franco’s Headpoint article
« Last post by tomtom on Today at 02:40:11 pm »
You can't just write a load of stuff and then claim that none of it means what it says.

Stop telling me what I can and can't do! :D

8
chuffing / Re: Franco’s Headpoint article
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 02:33:33 pm »


I don't think that's true... We have no idea what their motivation was.

You berate Dave for ascribing motivations to others (even though he has said he wasn't) but you are quite happy to tell him what he is thinking!

Read Dave's two posts. He clearly implies their motivations, and then writes that he has presumed what their motivations were.

I've only pointed out what is implied by his own writing. You can't just write a load of stuff and then claim that none of it means what it says.

And I didn't berate him.
9
chuffing / Re: Franco’s Headpoint article
« Last post by Teaboy on Today at 02:29:04 pm »


I don't think that's true... We have no idea what their motivation was.

You berate Dave for ascribing motivations to others (even though he has said he wasn't) but you are quite happy to tell him what he is thinking!

 
10
shootin' the shit / Re: celebrity sorta-climbing videos
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 02:23:17 pm »
I lowered him off Lliwedd a few years back. He's a keen hillwalker, less keen on the steep bits.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10