UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: mark s on March 24, 2013, 08:46:57 am
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cant imagine it being long till the snowballing we saw a few winters ago starts again.
i saw drifts up to 8 or 9 foot yesterday around the edges of leek.so up on the tops its going to far worse.
any body been out yest preping their landings?
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Setting off to burbage north in an hour or 2 so shall post up when back...
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I think the key is good drifting conditions; i.e. steady NE wind, and staying cold enough that the snow will drift. Certainly looks promising, the M1 at Nottingham last night was like Siberia, was glad I was in a quattro. Its always amazing how fast a spring snowfall melts though.
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I saw some FB pictures showing quite a decent drift under Burb South
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/575810_10152678723070223_351903412_n.jpg)
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FFS last time I missed the snowballing due to buggered shoulder, this time I'm in f***king trinidad
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Is there anyone keen in Yorkshire? Even in the sheltered Shipley Glen theres enough snoew to make modest platforms if desired.
Pistol Whip?
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Is there anyone keen in Yorkshire? Even in the sheltered Shipley Glen theres enough snoew to make modest platforms if desired.
Pistol Whip?
Exactly what I was thinking this morning. Just not sure what access up to the cliff will be like. What's your go- cart like in the snow?
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Maybe desperate dan at ilkley too...
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Is there anyone keen in Yorkshire? Even in the sheltered Shipley Glen theres enough snoew to make modest platforms if desired.
Pistol Whip?
Exactly what I was thinking this morning. Just not sure what access up to the cliff will be like. What's your go- cart like in the snow?
Not bad but not great. Happy to get to Huby and then leave it there if the road up isn't clear. Can provide psyche but have no shovel. One evening this week? I wonder how quickly this will all melt?
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Maybe. Looks warmer next weekend. Think I'm unemployed this week so will pop up in the day to check things out at some point.
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So is anyone out in Eastern Peak with a shovel? I was thinking about having a wander along from Burbage South, as far as Stanage (flatten out Shine On?) to see what's worth the effort of improving. Kinaesthetic Barrier?
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I'm going to be heading out today tomorrow and maybe wednesday with a shovel and a pad.
Was thinking of Froggatt as the winds wont be so horrendous there.
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Andyd, Dunc MacNeil and I put in some labour tonight as there was no snow under Pistol Whip to start. Moved a modest sized drift into the gully and got it well platformed. Now much more falloffable with only a modest number of pads.
Will post pics tomorrow. Get to it quick before it melts or walkers tunnel through it!
:punk:
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Went out yesterday and flattened the landing under 3 Blind Mice. I may not have done as good as job as whoever did it 3 years ago, but it's flat, it's just as high, and I even filled in the 'bergschrund' a little. Be warned though, it's still there, not completely filled, and will definitely eat any foot or leg offered to it.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8592279392_5767c8d1b0_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24714541@N05/8592279392/in/photostream)
The platform should be big enough for a couple of pads side by side.
Oh, and I also got on top (that was a right mission!) and knocked off the cornice so the dampness on the rock should slowly improve. It certainly wasn't climbable yesterday when I left.
In fact, I've just looked on the other channel (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=137502), and the drift might even be higher this time around
As for Ai No Corrida (?) I wasn't sure where it went, so tried flattening it a bit, but may've got the wrong side of the arete? Anyway, there's plenty more snow, so with a couple of people an even better platform could be created.
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Andyd, Dunc MacNeil and I put in some labour tonight as there was no snow under Pistol Whip to start. Moved a modest sized drift into the gully and got it well platformed. Now much more falloffable with only a modest number of pads.
Will post pics tomorrow. Get to it quick before it melts or walkers tunnel through it!
:punk:
Good work. What's the road up from Huby like? Cheers.
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It's fine. Make sure you go and jump in the drifts in the field by the stile.
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8593828654_c7b6f0fca2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8593828654/)
Pistol Whip Platform (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8593828654/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
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Hah! Call that a drift?
After going up yesterday, I reckon the next couple of weeks could be something of a revolution on the eastern edges. The drifts are bigger than 2010, and this time folk are prepared...
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The problem with the cliff, and particularly Pistol Whip in it's carefully crafted tunnel is that the horrible NE wind seems to be set in at least for the next few days.
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Although the forecast I've seen says its gonna warm up a fair bit after the next few days so you'd better get those drifts packed down pretty solid.
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In Yorkshire, where men are men, shovels are shitty £2 jobs from B&M, and there are no drifts at the bottom of the crag that ain't bad. We packed a fair old whack of snow into that hole!
Adam, I've got a couple of days to be spent climbing this weekend. Where should I be going to get in on the snowball action? 3 Blind Mice and...? There's a lot of melt going on, get it packed down hard!
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Hah! Call that a drift?
No. It was a drift. We had to move it 8-10 metres.
It's pretty compact. I'd say we moved a few cubic metres of compact snow (maybe 10 or 12 pads worth piled high with loose snow). With the wind and the nature of the hollow I think it'll be useful for the next week or so.
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I predict queues on Three Blind Mice...
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anyone had a look at the landing under The Knock?
obviously the top will need digging/brushing and adding to the landing platform, but it'd be nice to do it as a moderate boulder problem for us punters rather than as a route over a pointy boulder
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Its hard to get across how much snow there is up there, I think some routes are actually going to need digging out. With the temperatures forecast we should get some daytime thaw and nighttime freezing, which should consolidate the drifts nicely. Last time we had drifts this size they lasted over three months. Obviously we are later in the year, so they will thaw quicker, but the issue over Easter will be too much snow. I'm guessing the Marble wall stuff might need a while to settle down - the cornices need to come down first.
Having only looked at Burbage north the usual suspects will all be in. What's gong to be interesting this time is what else might be possible. Bearing in mind in 2010 stuff like Shirley's was buried and unclimbable for three months, I can imagine there are some big surprises waiting out there...
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am I right in thinking that access across the tops of the crags is fine due to snow being stripped by the wind?
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Up to a point yeah. You've still got to get to the top of the crag, and then bits will be better than others. It is mostly windslab so hopefully will firm up enough to walk across given some freeze thaw.
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I would defintely suggest approaching the Burbage crags from the top, and finding a half decent way down, as walking up from the Green Drive is the biggest ballache! Saying that, getting down from the top could be scary. The cornices I knocked off were up to a metre wide.
As JB says there is so much snow in places. Amazon Gully is potentially descendable on a board! Long Tall Sally was nearly a full Winter route, and Nicotine Stain is completely banked out.
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Does that mean Ai no Corrida is banked out as well ?
Is it OK to get parked or do you need to walk in from the cattle grid still ?
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Just been up there. Access to the cattle grid is fine but you can't get to burbage bridge due to the drifts and the dumped Porsche. There is a team of ploughs and blowers clearing the roads but they're making slow progress. I've made a platform under shine on and knocked the cornice off but it still needs the snow in the breaks to melt.
Never seen drifts so big up there, we jumped off the top of the hampers hang block and cut steps up telli. The Next couple of weeks are looking really promising
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I built a decent platform under Ai No Cirrida on Monday (plus The Promise/ Superstition). As drew said, nicotine stain is completely banked out - I walked in and out up it.
Just been boarding on Mam tor. Winnats is clear but Mam nick will be blocked on the Edale side for a while - big drift!
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OK cheers
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Do folk walk along the road from the cattle grid then back along the top or just hike straight across the moor?
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I took a shortcut and regretted it. Stick to stuff you don't have to wade through.
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This is all incredibly exciting but it sounds like early days. Bearing in mind that fuel aint cheap is it worth coming down for a visit from Yorkshire yet? It sounds like access is a pain and the pic of 3BM looks soaked! Is it worth waiting a week? I don't want to miss out!
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Others will be able to give better advice on particular problems but I wouldn't rush down just yet, there's just too much snow on most of the faces and in a few days there should be loads to go at. The drifts aren't going to be going anywhere fast, they're huge.
Also if anyone is digging and comes across any trapped sheep, the farmer (from the house under 'a case of mistaken identity') said he really appreciates that people have been digging them out.
We dug some out at Stanage and noticed that people had done the same under 'knights move' at burbage.
He's lost a load already.
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I've not really thought about going climbing yet. Huge cornices and snow on the faces, ledges etc. It needs a thaw to settle things down, and none is forecast til next week. The potential is indeed exciting but at the moment its just that.
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how's pistol whip looking will?
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Fine, Andy. A standard number of pads needed now rather than the usual "packing" pads that get stuffed into the gully to flatten it. Get to it while its there!
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will,
I will be up for a trip to the peak this weekend if you can get to Hudds/somewhere aound that area I can share petrol
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My fellrunner boss took a jog out to High Neb last night, I asked him to scope it out. He’s no climber so I can’t name routes, but he said that the drifts were in general absolutely massive, with some parts of the crag totally banked out. I know from experience that this part of the crag onwards yields some crackers, in the original snowballing winter we did Kelly’s Overhang, Old Friends, No More Excuses, Good Clean Fun, Goosey Goosey Gander, Nectar, etc. Apparently road to Redmires is OK so approach would be from Stanage Pole, sounds like coming from Hathersage still unlikely. Bit of a job for someone there as I’m not doing it!
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:strongbench:
how's pistol whip looking will?
I was on it yesterday afternoon. Conditions were great and the landing was fine without anyone spotting (although I had a spotter later on (thank you TJ)).
It felt really hard. I was doing it the way that is considered to be 7b but the move felt really tough. Easily as hard as the crux on scary canary. The cold wind made my skin really tough and plastic like and I ended up tearing a hole in my hand on the crimp. >:( maybe it'll heal up enough by Sunday.
Go get on it though. The landing will never be better.
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Link from other channel - Ulysses.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/#)
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As the reality of my injury:psyche:commitments ratio makes itself known, I am having to adjust my weekend's snow moving ambitions. I think the most usefull thing I'll be able to do is dig out and clean off the pock slab and possibly the parking at the end of the track (I haven't got around to building a snow plough for the van yet). I don't know what the state of the track is, but I can always skin along it if necessary.
Possibly going up tonight - it'd be pretty cool if that moon comes out
anyone looked at the parking at the end of the track? would there be room to park off the road while I dig out a proper parking space?
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The cold wind made my skin really tough and plastic like
I think this effect can make a marked difference, especially on small holds on finer gritstone. You have to pull a lot harder and you're more likely to ping off.
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Link from other channel - Ulysses.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/#)
Fuck ME :o
Loving reading this thread, it sounds bonkers down there. Walking up and down Nicotine Stain lol. Get more photos you lot!
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Link from other channel - Ulysses.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60469689@N03/8597458510/#)
Fuck ME :o
Loving reading this thread, it sounds bonkers down there. Walking up and down Nicotine Stain lol. Get more photos you lot!
second what fiend said. Sounds great fun. Doesn't happen down yer.
More photos and video footage be good. Especially if climbing by good moonlight.
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That pic's amazing!
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"Ideal conditions for soloing those 'death' routes" ;D
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anyone looked at the parking at the end of the track? would there be room to park off the road while I dig out a proper parking space?
three cars in it today as I came past. Only had a brief glimpse but the boulders looked snowy
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anyone looked at the parking at the end of the track? would there be room to park off the road while I dig out a proper parking space?
three cars in it today as I came past. Only had a brief glimpse but the boulders looked snowy
thanks for that
I don't expect to be able to climb, just to build and clean
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I'll post this on the conditions board too, but thought it's worth mentioning that the inevitable invasion on almscliff as the only sure-fire dry venue will be met with disappointment if you don't take a shovel. The lay-by has been used to push the snow clear of the road so parking is limited. There's a tele-handler that goes up and down from the farm so it's not enough to just leave space for one car to pass. Get digging.
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I don't expect to be able to climb, just to build and clean
I know you've decided against it but The Knock was a really good call, let me know if it looks feasible for cleaning & platforming and I'll try to get to it.
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Spoke with Iaiaiaiaiain Farrar yesterday, and it sounds like he's done some more work to The Promise/Superstition, but someone might need a toprope to clear the snow from above. He also said White Wand and Ulysses will need digging out!
Other people have suggested that Sole Power might have a platform built under it, Big Air is doable, and that Shine on has been levelled.
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The snow under Big air was only a foot lower than the take off block. very safe at the mo'.
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The main block at Apparent North has some pretty large drifts underneath it. Looked to me like Stanage without oxygen, Groove is in the heart, Black car burning etc would be very feasible with some small amount of shovelling and a few mats. The water trough underneath the block is completely covered
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Pretty jealous of you all. Post lots of pics please.
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Some pics of crazy-mad amounts of snow at Burbage North
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ijt/8599851811/#in/set-72157633119063274/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ijt/8599851811/#in/set-72157633119063274/)
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Pretty jealous of you all. Post lots of pics please.
Likewise get on it.
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Snowboarding up at Surgeon's Saunter area, Stanage today. Found and dug out 7 sheep trapped at the bottom of the crag by a large drift. Bumped into the farmer on the way back down and she asked if anyone else finds more to give Steven Taylor a ring on 07720 319830.
(https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=627169610631602&set=pb.100000157055230.-2207520000.1364577686&type=3&theater)
Managed to get some riding in too:
(https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=627181853963711&set=vb.100000157055230&type=2&theater)
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Established a flickr account.
Here are the sheep:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600049385/#in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600049385/#in/photostream)
Here is some riding (NOT 'boarding'):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80in/photostream)
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Try again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80in/photostream)
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Finally, some riding:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/94501189@N06/8600065183/#secret512499fc80)
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After playing with the crowds on 3 Blind Mice headed over to Hollyash Wall. Dug a little platform below the Adrian Berry thing, although it's got a huge cornice above it and lots of run-off. Dug another platform under the roof to the left (where Arme Blanche E5 6a goes) and did a new little problem there traversing the whole lip. Probably called Arme Neige F7B? Quite fun, did above 1 pad, no spot. The platform is pretty high. Very obvious direct still to be done but my 5'6" span was an inch or so short.
burbage north on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62949130)
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Anyone been up to the roaches? Might be heading out tmoz and am wondering if there's anything to go at
Cheers
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Anyone been up to the roaches? Might be heading out tmoz and am wondering if there's anything to go at
Cheers
Might be worth checking the other thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13404.msg401532.html#msg401532)
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ANyone know what the road's like getting down to plantation - all ok?
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Looked pretty snowy and icey down near the trees and the corners. 4X4's were getting through but didn't see any normal cars
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Cheers. I'm assuming burbage north is OK then, or can get to plantation from redmires or along the top of the crag. Might head out in the morning mit das kamera.
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Would I be correct in assuming you've all got winter boots on your motors? Is anything accessible to southern softies without?
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I'm rolling on factory shoes.
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Had a drive round this aft (in none-winterised car). Ringinglow road totally fine (i.e. snow clear strips for both tyres all the way), higgar road totally fine, road closed signs on road over to Stanage but road totally fine over Ap north and past Popular end parking. The final stretch to the Plantation looked (from a distance) to have snow on the road. I reckon for Plantation the best bet would be to park at or past the popular end then walk down the road. Think I'll probably be there tomorrow.
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Ringinglow ok, road from hathersage to stagnate blocked, other road up to bbge n from near millstone ok. Road from bbge to stanage ok, but single lane due to high sides of snow in many places. If you are forced to the sides to let vehicles pass you need to be able to drive on the snow. Stanage road ok from popular end down to the corner, then you really needed a high clearance car to get round the corner to the plantation car park. Might be ok but still snowy. We had snow tyres on.
At the plantation I could pull onto Ulysses just below the crux, didn't dig it out as there was a big, thawing, creaking cornice at the top. Will be great in a few days. We did breadline, big air etc.
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I didn't manage to get out on Thursday night.
Mrs Starfish told me suggested that since I could barely hobble down stairs and was struggling to get my foot into suitable footwear - floundering around in the snow above big rocks in The Peak District on my own at night might not be a very good idea.
Interestingly, I did not resort to alcohol to cope with my disappointment. Must be growing up or something.
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Road from bbge to stanage ok, but single lane due to high sides of snow in many places. If you are forced to the sides to let vehicles pass you need to be able to drive on the snow.
is there a suitable spot to park for App North?
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Parking all fine at App N
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puck http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3149 (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3149) looked worth a dig out yesterday - the topout needs a good clean but the rib was clear
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Roads up from Hathersage via Higgar and The Dale (past the school) all now open. Looks like it might be passable all the way to Plantation car park - sure people will be on later to confirm.
Did some platform work at Apparent North - Black Car Burning and Stanage Without Oxygen both good very high platforms (SWO very low now, although for some reason having soloed it in the past I couldn't do it today as a boulder problem...)
To quote the guide on BCB "It would make a good boulder problem - were it not for the unprotected 6c moves at 6m above a bad landing." so go get on it whilst you can!
black car on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62992201)
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That still looks fucking high!
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The crux is the move at approx 40 sec - still pretty low at that point. Jugs after that.
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A few more ascents of Black Car Burning and Stanage Without Oxygen today.
A few people came off the crux and were OK, you wouldn't want to fall off from much higher though. I did it with a couple of cams to protect the top moves.
Platforms should be fine.
Spoke to a few people who said Cemetery Waits and Shine On are in condition now too.
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The main block at Apparent North has some pretty large drifts underneath it. Looked to me like Stanage without oxygen, Groove is in the heart, Black car burning etc would be very feasible with some small amount of shovelling and a few mats. The water trough underneath the block is completely covered
You might be pleased to hear that 20 years on and despite being safe with a snow platform, Black Car Burning still held off a fair number of aspirants today.
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Nice vid Ben. Made it look piss!
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At burbage north today. Sunny and warm.
Removed the last of the snowfrom the top of the promise so the wet streak should dry by tomorrow :)
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Built up the platform some more on Shine On and Cemetery earlier, big team out on it this afternoon.
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Anyone keen for Shine On, Cemetery tomorrow? Keen to head up but the more pads the better :)
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Higgar was fucking freezing today. Good conditions though if you could keep warm. no snow at all!
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Roads up from Hathersage via Higgar and The Dale (past the school) all now open. Looks like it might be passable all the way to Plantation car park - sure people will be on later to confirm.
Did some platform work at Apparent North - Black Car Burning and Stanage Without Oxygen both good very high platforms (SWO very low now, although for some reason having soloed it in the past I couldn't do it today as a boulder problem...)
To quote the guide on BCB "It would make a good boulder problem - were it not for the unprotected 6c moves at 6m above a bad landing." so go get on it whilst you can!
black car on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62992201)
Just watched that again. I like the casual glance down at 1:14 as your daughter? disappears down the snow slide!
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8604371598_b8a15e5275_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604371598/)
Stanage Without Oxygen (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604371598/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8604351644_faf1a635d1_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604351644/)
Big Air (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604351644/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8603250663_26710d2c1c_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250663/)
Big Air (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250663/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8603250527_95981ddbe1_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250527/)
Cresecent Arete (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250527/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8604371516_02037ff639_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604371516/)
Shine On (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604371516/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8604350936_e465cc2131_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604350936/)
Shine On (3) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8604350936/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8122/8603250031_c8060c7dcb_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250031/)
Shine On (5) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603250031/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8603249933_46ac838142_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603249933/)
Stanage Popular (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8603249933/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
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Grubes and I headed down tomorrow.
:bounce:
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Grubes and I headed down tomorrow.
:bounce:
Cool. Should be a few of us heading to shine on around midday. Remember the clocks go forward tonight!
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Sorted out Boys Will be Boys at the end of yesterday's session. Big platform, whole route dry and no snow on top. Go to it! Big thanks to all the other diggers!
Other stuff that looked ready (drifted below and snowfree top) include: Reagent, Wall of Sound, Twin Cam, Balcony Buttress Direct, Kelly's Overhang, Cool Curl (maybe, only saw from a distance).
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Nice pics slackers... I'm well jel.
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Built up the platform some more on Shine On and Cemetery earlier, big team out on it this afternoon.
Did you have a look at Wall of Sound after I saw you?
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El Mocho cruising Ai No Corrida
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8545/8602653388_25c0ee13eb_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41040072@N07/8602653388/)
Snowballing 2013 - Ai No Corrida (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41040072@N07/8602653388/#) by Plattsy1979 (http://www.flickr.com/people/41040072@N07/), on Flickr
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Great photos slackline. Top skills.
Looks fecking awesome up there.
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Shine on & Cemetery still fine today. We shoveled a bit more fresh snow on top as it was like an ice rink when we arrived.
Spoke to people who'd done Black Car Burning.
Platform still beneath Boys will be Boys.
Stuff at the plantation is coming into condition, plenty of the bouldering is now OK.
Mental block mostly dry. There's snow on the top of Storm, and the start of Beneath the Breadline is buried.
Breadline, Deadline, Big Air, Highline all fine.
In terms of snowballs:
Ulysses - big wet streak
White Wand - Can climb the top arete from above the crux to the break (assuming you can avoid the melting cornice which was falling onto people!!)
Don / Archangel - Had platforms but too much snow above to top out.
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Cheers for the report chris, useful as I'm hoping to get out tomorrow morning.
Anyone know how much of the "normal" bouldering at burbage north is ok? And, has anyone done Promise yet?
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Was at Burb North on friday and saturday, lots of the normal bouldering was covered.
We brushed velvet crab off and it's good to go, if you get there before meltage, Zaffs should be alright bar the top out.
Voyager block had chalk on and looked snow free on top.
Remergence has snow on the hanging arete but right hand side was dry, load of snow on top of crag there though so may have fallen by now.
Banana finger, All quiet pretty much buried/soaked, could barely see Small is Beautiful!. Crazy amounts of snow up there.
Mermaid was just drying off and West was all good.
We brushed the last of the snow off the top of the Promise, someone's done an amazing job on the platform, would imagine it's dry by now.
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A few pics from today. Next time the snow comes, I'm not going to rip myself to shreds at Caley two days before!
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8607390558_01118f1ecd_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607390558/)
Crescent Arete (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607390558/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8606287433_6962fcc646_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606287433/)
Big Air - Klem approves Snowballing (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606287433/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8606292281_2225df4204_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606292281/)
Big Air (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606292281/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8607392858_b02323dce5_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607392858/)
Big Air (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607392858/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8606291331_73fd7cfa80_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606291331/)
White Wand (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606291331/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8256/8607394814_ca7881f08c_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607394814/)
Stanage Without Oxygen (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607394814/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8606289779_3a61eb0377_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606289779/)
Stanage Without Oxygen (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8606289779/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8607393266_7bd90acb2e_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607393266/)
Black Car Burning (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/8607393266/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
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A word to the wise. There was a hell of a lot of melt going on today. Out of the wind it was tropical temperatures. Get to it, quick!
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Cheers for the report chris, useful as I'm hoping to get out tomorrow morning.
No worries, I reckon your mate in prison could have a good day at the Plantation tomorrow.
Highline was dry and there was plenty of snow in the gap to make it safe.
Deadline was fine and for gentleman of a tall nature seemed most agreeable for the 7b+ tick (there was a bit of debate over where the line went. We used a heel on the arete to reach from the big pocket to the pocket on Breadline. The 2002 guide says this is in, however later guides show the line launching up the blunt arete). Spoke to someone who I believe was Andy B of this parish who reckoned the hold on Breadline was in.
There were plenty of people at the bouldering around Deliverance / Business but as we didn't walk over there I can't say for sure what was dry.
Should also have mentioned that Silk should be snowballable now with a bit of shovel work to sort the landing.
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Cheers for the report chris, useful as I'm hoping to get out tomorrow morning.
Anyone know how much of the "normal" bouldering at burbage north is ok? And, has anyone done Promise yet?
There are bits of snow free bouldering at Burb N, but you'd be off on the other side of the valley for that sort of thing. Burbage West and Higgar are both completely snow free.
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The Promise and Superstition have great platforms, but there was a big wet streak down the arete of the promise from snow in the break when we walked past - I cleared most of this out so hopefully will be dry by tomo afternoon. Thanks to all platform builders - amazing day.
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9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.
9 is Enuff 7A+
Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:
stanage 9 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63049961)
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9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.
9 is Enuff 7A+
Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:
stanage 9 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63049961)
Saw the chalk on this yesterday afternoon when we headed over. The cornice above was melting though and there was quite a big wet streak down it so not sure how good it will be today.
A guy on White Wand got a face full of ice as he was climbing it when part of the cornice broke. Be careful out there people!
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9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.
9 is Enuff 7A+
Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:
stanage 9 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63049961)
Wow, nice work, had my eye on that one! The drift is higher than I expected though, can you pull onto White Wand above the crux?
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I'm loving this thread.
From my office looking out over London Bridge. You make your choices...
Maybe it'll still be ok this weekend...?
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If the forecast is right it'll be sound.
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Good work Ben and co. Thanks for the platform on WW. You do pull on post crux I believe (though a crouch start was insisted upon!)
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Anyone out tomorrow? I'm keen for Burbage north and Stanage. My list keeps getting longer.
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I might be out in the PM, hit me up.
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Small bit of newness: the gap between Breadline and Big Air (start up breadline, shuffle right along the slopers as per Highline then exit direct up the blank slab) = Snow Line, no idea of grade. 7b ish?
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I'm loving this thread.
From my office looking out over London Bridge. You make your choices...
Maybe it'll still be ok this weekend...?
For people who haven't been out it's hard to convey just how much snow is out there. There are whole butresses at Stanage that are buried beneath drifts. As mentioned some of the platforms (i.e. White Wand) are so ridiculously high that even the crux is covered.
It's going to take more than a few warm days to melt it all.
We platformed Silk, Slap and Spittle and Turtle Power today (the latter needed a cornice knocking off the top but should be dry tomorrow).
No More Excuses / Crew Pegs was fine.
Goosey Goosey saw a couple of ascents and while the crux is in highball territory you'll need to bring your topping out skills with you.
The Mother of Pearl dyno should also be OK above a couple of mats.
I've got quite a bit of video footage from the last few days but no idea when I'll get the chance to edit it at the moment.
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Anyone out tomorrow? I'm keen for Burbage north and Stanage. My list keeps getting longer.
I'm looking to get out tomorrow too, fancy Burb North stuff as well as Apparent North maybe, PM me if your keen
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I'm keen to get out Wednesday (working tomorrow) if anyone is about
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This is Goosey Goosey Gander at the moment. Pushes into soloing at the top but its pretty steady up there (if you can jam). Crux is at a slightly worrying height but not too bad, couple of us jumped off from there.
http://flic.kr/p/e7XUAo (http://flic.kr/p/e7XUAo)
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flippin 'eck...
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I'm keen to get out Wednesday (working tomorrow) if anyone is about
Im very keen to get out Jim, maybe with Nai as well.
Itwould only be for some part of the afternoon and I have a specific agenda of Ai no Corrida and 3 blind mice if thats of any nterest ?
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I might be about on Wed too.. Could co-ordinate some liftage from manc side etc.. TT
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sorry but you've had your chance mate :)
Playing in American sun while weve had to put up with perfect conditions and snow playforms.
Ill PM you my number, twitter etc
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For people who haven't been out it's hard to convey just how much snow is out there. There are whole butresses at Stanage that are buried beneath drifts.
Some more snaps from my wander around on Saturday to help...
The descent at Balcony Buttress (where you step over the gap to a hueco)...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8611875411_2d163e028b_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611875411/)
Normal Descent (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611875411/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
So instead I followed the steps up...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8611875493_ac183933ee_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611875493/)
Kicking Steps (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611875493/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
As you can see Balcony Buttress ledge is completely drifted up to the level of the top. You can just about get into the cave (there was a cool column of snow on the way in, pics on other camera, not sorted them yet)...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8612983464_b98eef70ac_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612983464/)
Stanage Balcony Buttress (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612983464/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
The gully above Robin Hoods Cave (you could get into the cave by sliding through the hole at the bottom, taking care not to carry on off the ledge and down Paucity!)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8612982656_07e6dfe01c_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612982656/)
Robin Hoods Cave (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612982656/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
Approaching the Plantation from Popular End...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8611883463_875fb6038f_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611883463/)
Stanage Plantation (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8611883463/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
Towards High Neb from above Plantation...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8612982858_dc146693e2_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612982858/)
High Neb (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8612982858/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
Another stitch of Popular End taken on the walk back to the car (view on Flickr for scrolling around, descent by Flying Buttress, totally snowed up as are lots of other areas)...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8608306565_75da3a5ae8_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8608306565/)
Stanage Popular (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/8608306565/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
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Had a drive out round Stanage, Higgar, Burbage yesterday. Never seen anything like it, it's bonkers. Wish I could climb.
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This all looks amazing. I have to remind myself that most of it is far too hard for me even with 10' of snow underneath.
What are the chances of a less ankle-snappy version of Archangel coming into condition in the next few days?
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Lots of snow at the base that could be platformed but would need a lot clearing off of the top first
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Take a warthog to abseil off!
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What are the chances of a less ankle-snappy version of Archangel coming into condition in the next few days?
My mate had a go at it on Sunday with no pads. The landing is fine and you can bail off it into the snow (and slide down on your ass). However, about half of it is covered and likely to remain so for a while.
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Thanks all. I'd like to climb something recognisable as Archangel but more suited to the not-rubber-knee'd mature gentleman (I also like to have my cake and eat it too).
What does El Mocho charge per hour for snow shoveling?
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Was out at Burbage yesterday, scenes are still pretty epic. However it's going to get quite a bit of plus temps and sun this week so get out whilst the goings good.
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Anyone up for supplying font grades for the snowballs that are in condition?
I guess Big Air consensus is 6b+, but Ai No Corrida, whilst mentioned as 6b+ on here was given 7a+ last year; and is down as 5+ on a ukc logbook!
Fingers crossed the platforms last till Saturday...
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Ai no Corrida is probably harder if you strictly stick to the right side of the arete. We climbed on the arete its self which is pretty easy.
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I'd give Big Air 6c - weird jump and have to pull pretty hard at the top. I practised it 3 times but still not sure if I'd do it without mats & snow!
Thee Blind Mice - 6c, maybe worth a plus. And an awesome problem.
Think Jake was sandbagging a little at 5+ but the 3 of us who did Ai No Corrida on Sun all found it v easy if still pretty scary. 6a+ maybe? Unless we missed a hard start but it certainly didn't look that way. We also climbed the Arete direct (complete with heals and knee clamps) - don't see how you could ever climb it any other way!
Don & Archangel - 6a+ (both now in knick with platforms for pads although you might miss them if you barndoor off!)
Deadline - get's a boulder grade of 7b+ but I've never climbed 7b+ before and did it second go! ~7a for me although height dependent. I'm 5'11 with a +1 ape index.
Breadline - 6b.
Was great conditions on Sunday though. Mermaid @Burbage Bridge was dry and the top sloper felt like a jug!
Here's a couple of pics from the weekend. If they dont work see https://plus.google.com/photos/106531937479114862195/albums/5862244146159224113 .
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DVVI9nBm-qU/UVrf_QnpPYI/AAAAAAAAAJU/I0ZtDbU7OG8/s941/R%26J_Arete.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TOSipIIrOeQ/UVrgA2_9IAI/AAAAAAAAAI4/KkHw9uY51xo/s941/R_3BM_1.JPG)
And a vid of Big Air to remind myself of the beta (yes I will forget how to do a 3 move problem within a week I reckon): https://plus.google.com/106531937479114862195/posts/XG468HC7Xfg
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I guess Big Air consensus is 6b+, but Ai No Corrida, whilst mentioned as 6b+ on here was given 7a+ last year; and is down as 5+ on a ukc logbook!
Ai No Corrida did feel pretty easy but also felt high as it felt like you'd miss the platform if you came off so I'd guess at 6b max but the hard part was commiting to standing up as I knew once I'd stood up, I was heading to the top - it culd well be 5+ and I'm a coward!. However, looking at the picture on UKC and off El Mocho, my right hand was where Nan's (?) left hand is here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211959 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=211959)
and I (and pretty much everyone who climbed it at the same time - Ru, Bonjoy etc) layed off the arete whereas it looks like Nan and El Mocho are going to rock onto the slab, which I'd guess is a lot harder.
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Quiffhanger, loving the Don/Archangel photo, wad point on the way!
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However, looking at the picture on UKC and off El Mocho, my right hand was where Nan's (?) left hand is here
Ditto - guppied the break in the arete with my right using a right heel in the starting good pocket. Going right is probably harder but maybe safer as you'd probably manage to stay on the platform.
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Ai No Corrida did feel pretty easy but also felt high as it felt like you'd miss the platform if you came off
:-\
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Quiffhanger, loving the Don/Archangel photo, wad point on the way!
Ha, thanks. Tho I probably deserve minus 20 wad points for the horrendously sketch & terrifying way I scraped my way up when I did it as a trad route :)
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Ai No Corrida did feel pretty easy but also felt high as it felt like you'd miss the platform if you came off
:-\
Exactly why I backed off (and why I backed off everything!) Reeve hugged up it like a monkey on a stick as it felt safer (the platform extended under the left side of the buttress!) The Right Fin was also great fun and there was a cool boulder problem further right still, just left of the corner, which probably hasn't been done without snow!
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Deadline - get's a boulder grade of 7b+ but I've never climbed 7b+ before and did it second go! ~7a for me although height dependent. I'm 5'11 with a +1 ape index.
When I did Deadline a few years ago (no snow, look at me...) I went direct on it up to a much poorer pocket thing right on the rib above the big pocket, this kept it separate from Breadline. When 9 toez and Andy B did it the other day they were going all the way to the pocket on Breadline - this is a much better hold and a easier move to get (neither could get to the poor pocket) so this (if you also did it this way) could explain the difference in grade?
Back on the snowballing note. Got child labor involved yesterday (promise of Easter eggs) and me and May dug good platform below Living in Oxford and improved the Superstition platform (and also shit Puck platform). Did Promise up to the move to sloper and jumped off - fine with the one pad and no spot. Back today and Promise completely dry, played on Superstition (too hot and too hard but platform good - prob back early tomorrow am for better conditions), Living in Oxford suffering run off but 10 mins clearing the rest of the snow at the top would sort this (no shovel today, and cleared a fair bit off top yesterday)
Very hot so lots of melt but platforms seem to be holding out...
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When I did Deadline a few years ago (no snow, look at me...) I went direct on it up to a much poorer pocket thing right on the rib above the big pocket, this kept it separate from Breadline. When 9 toez and Andy B did it the other day they were going all the way to the pocket on Breadline - this is a much better hold and a easier move to get (neither could get to the poor pocket) so this (if you also did it this way) could explain the difference in grade?
Yep - I copied their beta and spanned from straight to the good pocket on Deadline with a right heal round the arete. Can imagine that direct is much harder. It's still a really good problem the way we were doing it - just not 7b+.
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Got child labor involved yesterday
When I walked past said child was sledging whilst you shovelled... I don't think your Easter eggs were well spent.
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They were her Easter Eggs and she had already been given them! I just allowed her to eat some. She was sliding down the hill whilst I shoveled Puck - she had just put in an hour moving snow beneath LIO.
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Deadline - get's a boulder grade of 7b+ but I've never climbed 7b+ before and did it second go! ~7a for me although height dependent. I'm 5'11 with a +1 ape index.
When I did Deadline a few years ago (no snow, look at me...) I went direct on it up to a much poorer pocket thing right on the rib above the big pocket, this kept it separate from Breadline. When 9 toez and Andy B did it the other day they were going all the way to the pocket on Breadline - this is a much better hold and a easier move to get (neither could get to the poor pocket) so this (if you also did it this way) could explain the difference in grade?
I don't think I ever tried to go to the other pocket as I assumed an old E5 wouldn't be an eliminate.
It's worth mentioning that all those declaring it piss on Sunday were of 6 foot span upwards and more than one person who climbs significantly harder than 7a (including the person whose beta everyone copied) weren't able to make the span.
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Ai No Corrida did feel pretty easy but also felt high as it felt like you'd miss the platform if you came off
:-\
Exactly why I backed off (and why I backed off everything!) Reeve hugged up it like a monkey on a stick as it felt safer (the platform extended under the left side of the buttress!) The Right Fin was also great fun and there was a cool boulder problem further right still, just left of the corner, which probably hasn't been done without snow!
It's fine coming off from the break even. Ask Dolly, he's been up there four times and not manage to commit any further. Just thought I'd out him in public so he has to get it done :jab:
And that wall to the right is a problem, about 6C I think, but you have to start lower than the snow allows to get the tick, Shirley?
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Exactly why I backed off (and why I backed off everything!) Reeve hugged up it like a monkey on a stick as it felt safer (the platform extended under the left side of the buttress!) The Right Fin was also great fun and there was a cool boulder problem further right still, just left of the corner, which probably hasn't been done without snow!
Once I was established it felt fine, the crux was deciding I actually wanted to climb it!
Right Fin was indeed good, a couple of laps provided a good warm up. The "boulder problem" to the right again is apparently an old E4.
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You're right, now I think more about it it was only Harry who was going for the little pocket. I think the landing might be slightly better if you keep going straight up (more chance of missing the block beneath?) or it could be we all missed it back when I did it, I also have a similar or slightly smaller span than travs so it could have just been out of reach for me and so went direct (and hence I would prob find this version harder than what I did).
No idea how it was first done.
Edit: in reply to Andy B not about Ai No Corrida
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[size=78%]It's fine coming off from the break even. Ask Dolly, he's been up there four times and not manage to commit any further. Just thought I'd out him in public so he has to get it done [/size] :jab:
And that wall to the right is a problem, about 6C I think, but you have to start lower than the snow allows to get the tick, Shirley?
Ouch -hoping to get out at some point tomorrow if you, TT or Jim are up for it (or anyone else for that matter)
Agree re the 6c prob as well
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Must say that despite being involved in two previous snowballing scenes and knowing folk who have led it as a route, I’ve never come across Ai No Corrida done as a prow, only by rocking round onto slab. Probably due to the gear for the lead going in Right Fin. Must say as a prow it looked very good and an obvious way to do it as things are at present.
There’s a picture of Patta on Deadline in an old OTE which gives the line he took away and which I THINK is the more direct one El Mocho describes, having looked at this in past (but not tried). As I’ve not tried it I’ve got no direct knowledge, but guess in this internet age someone can scan in the pic. Or just go old school and ask Patta. Wouldn’t be like him to overgrade so sounds like it may be a new variation (easier & purer?) line, which lets face it for Stanage can only be a good thing!
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Anyone up for supplying font grades for the snowballs that are in condition?
I guess Big Air consensus is 6b+, but Ai No Corrida, whilst mentioned as 6b+ on here was given 7a+ last year; and is down as 5+ on a ukc logbook!
Fingers crossed the platforms last till Saturday...
Thoughts on stuff I did:
BCB 7B (but I believe our sequence was whack, el mocho said it is steady with a kneebar IIRC)
Shine On 7B
Cemetery Waits 7A/+
3BM 6C+
ANC 6A ( did it straight on)
Snow Blind Mice 7B (think Dan V gave it this as a boulder when it was first done, seems fair)
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Does anyone know how the original deadline finished ? I had the little pocket with my right the small seam just left with my left,right heel round the arête bumping my left foot up the slab, was unsure how to finish and kinda stuck in that position??
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Was on Deadline briefly today, with a few other folk of this parish I believe. Think consensus was that if you didn't have a load of thick pads and even thicker snow beneath you the new way would be scary enough to be fairly off-putting but the original line would make it easier to jump/drop off and potentially land ok. Don't forget you'd be above the pointy blocks of Beneath the Breadline at that point which require multiple paddage when exposed.
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This won't be much help - I think I just went to the top with my left. I just remember pushing the big pocket out until my fingers hurt.
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Just thought, doesn't Ben does BtB on the Real Thing? But I don't recall him going around into the original, does he do this finish or something similar?
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Just thought, doesn't Ben does BtB on the Real Thing? But I don't recall him going around into the original, does he do this finish or something similar?
I think he climbs Adults Only but it's mistakenly captioned as Breadline.
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Ah, not paying attention obviously, I thought he did BtB labelled incorrectly
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As well as grades can I suggest people give some idea of the state that platforms are in. I think Johnny Brown suggested something like this a few years ago:
*** - It's a boulder problem, no spotters required (e.g. Big Air / Breadline)
** - Highball, but relatively safe. Take a couple mats / spotters (e.g. Three Blind Mice)
* - Crux is safe but bring your topping out skills (e.g. Goosey Goosey Gander)
As of yesterday at Stanage:
Silk - ** / ***
Most stuff on the mental block - ***
Cemetery / Shine On - **
No More Excuses / Crews Pegs / Embarrassment of Riches - */**
Slap and Spittle / Turtle Power **
Goosey Goosey Gander *
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Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?
Might pop out o the Plantation now as it seems to melting faster today.
J :-)
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well, I'm definately keen for tomorrow.
Ideally I'd like to pop to bbg north first and do 3BM and ANC then go to stanage.
However I'm a complete coward at the moment and need plenty of egging on on anything thats higher than 6ft
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If anyone else is keen I'm planning on heading to Shine On / Cemetery tomorrow but it won't be till around 5 or so due to work.
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Is anyone keen to get on the promises tomorrow? Would love to give it a good go above pads
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Is anyone keen to get on the promise* tomorrow? Would love to give it a good go above pads
I think James Noble is keen, can pm you his number?
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Yeah cheers guy. Think I know him vaguely from seeing him at the plantation
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Hi Dolly - don't make any plans involving me tomorrow... I'm still on -7hours time, so god knows how I'll feel tomorrow... very much take it as it comes...
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Hi Dolly - don't make any plans involving me tomorrow... I'm still on -7hours time, so god knows how I'll feel tomorrow... very much take it as it comes...
Big Air has your name all over it Tomtom
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Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?
I walked as far as Counts Buttress Saturday and if I clocked the right area/slab that Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.
Should have nipped round and kicked some steps up as its about the only chance I'll have of getting up that slab any time soon. :P
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OK cheers TT, will see how it goes.
Lagers is right about big air for you :)
What time approx will you be there Jim ? not sure what time I can leave work for a looooong lunch yet
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Was on Deadline briefly today, with a few other folk of this parish I believe. Think consensus was that if you didn't have a load of thick pads and even thicker snow beneath you the new way would be scary enough to be fairly off-putting but the original line would make it easier to jump/drop off and potentially land ok. Don't forget you'd be above the pointy blocks of Beneath the Breadline at that point which require multiple paddage when exposed.
Thats certainly my thoughts too, the new beta seems suicidal without the snow, it'd be a pretty nasty fall. From what I remember of old OTEs I think heading more up the sub-rib is probably the original way. Would Richie had used a heel? Probably not.
I had a look up at YMCA later on and stamped out a perfunctory platform as I forgot my shovel. Lots of drips at the moment though....and also falling water from above.
One other thing - fucking boiling today in the sun, I think I've got snowblindness.
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Hmmm, not sure I picked the right week to go on holiday to Wales. Hopefully it will last, barring a week of mild rain we should be okay for a bit...
Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.
Back in 2010 Shirley's was buried for 3 months, and Daydreamer etc were nearly as bad. Seems to collect a lot of snow that bit!
Deadline definitely went direct up the sub-rib not right into Breadline - you can do that a few ways at various heights. Patta headpointed it remember!
Ai no is way easier if you stay left and climb it using both aretes. I've done it three ways - stretching across from right fin, as per that pic, and fridge hug. The way as in the pic - just using the main arete - is great, but much harder/ scarier than the fridge hug. No idea how it was first done. Andi/y_e, that wall to the right is a tad scary sans snow but not in the same league as the others hereabouts!
Anyone actually done Turtle power? Seems hard!
Mad for it, keep up the good work on the digging folks!
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Keen for Stanage tomorrow from early afternoon onwards. Chris I'm well up for Shine On, can bring a couple of pads up, happy to stay late so 5 would be fine. If anyone else is around earlier and fancies a team Big Air effort that'd be great. Also keen to check out White Wand & Archangel.
Went to Burbage tonight, too hot in the sun at times! ANC platform seemed ok, TBM is getting a bit narrow (less than a pad) at the right (start) end, also seemed easy to fall through in places. Might be best to go soon if you want to do it. I wimped out standing up for fear of falling past the back of the platform, probably fine though.
Cheers to all the platform builders!
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Deadline definitely went direct up the sub-rib not right into Breadline
true, and as dave says no heel hooks either - patta was basically footless as usual (me and moony were supposed to be spotting him, but ran away when he got on the top bit)
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A rushed edit from the last few days
Stanage Snowballs on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63195904)
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Grades.
I only really did Big Air and thought it 6b. Was genuinely quite shocked to miss the jug on the first couple of jumps (punter). Once you've got the jug its fine.
What's the consensus of beta for Stanage Without Oxygen? Initially tried it going up and over with left hand to a pebble pinchy thing and matching. This made it difficult to get over to the left as the match was poor. Then tried a heel-toe lock, undercutting with LH and going up RH first. This felt better but by this point I'd lost all the skin on my tips. Shoring it up with superglue and tape all day had done my climbing ability no favours!
Definitely a ** platform. Needs a close spot for heel lock and then a step back and down for the big move onto the break. Spicy!
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Nice. Cast of UKB regulars there. Oli's turn ups are a thing of beauty.
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What's the consensus of beta for Stanage Without Oxygen?
hand jam with your left, over to good sloper with right, high left foot, quick match then to good hold with left. This may be a little height dependent but not that much, over 5' 8" should be fine. lots of feet.
Nice video as well chris!
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Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?
I walked as far as Counts Buttress Saturday and if I clocked the right area/slab that Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.
Should have nipped round and kicked some steps up as its about the only chance I'll have of getting up that slab any time soon. :P
Yeah, looked pretty covered to me from the Plantation and road.
Might take a shovel out and see if I can find it :-)
Good evening at the Plantation, lots of things getting ticked :-)
Never seen so many ascents of Big Air, Archangel, the Don and White Wand - handy beta for coming back and doing them properly :-)
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A rushed edit from the last few days
Stanage Snowballs on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63195904)
Good skills.
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So does this mean we've got two more new problems? Ai Snow Corrida, and Dreadline?
What's the general beta on 3BM? I have done it previously and tried today going from the two good crimps up and left to the two slopers, then right toe on the starting hold, then a weird flag move to get the left hand in the pocket in the higher break, then stand up on the right foot, and put the left foot on the slopers. It got done today by keeping further right, with the left toe on the starting crimp, then a slightly dodgy foot match, and lots of pebble pinching.
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I did it like you (as did everyone else there I saw) further right would put you disappointingly close to the crack no?
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Anyone fancy 3 Blind Mice this afternoon/evening before the platform goes? Drop me a pm. I can get there for 4.30, then I'll head over to Shine On at Stanage with Chris205
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As a public service request, if those heading out this week could do anything to keep the platforms topped up, that would be massively appreciated (especially the mental block and ai no corrida ones).
Thank you, thank you very much
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My wife asked me last night who coined the phrase "snowballing" to mean highballing above snow, which got me wondering whether John Allen was the first snowballer with his ascent of Boys will be Boys (E6) at Stanage in 1986? Steve Adams and I 'snowballed' this back in 2000 (April 6th according to Steve) having read in the old Stanage guidebook that the first ascent was done above a massive drift. I wonder whether any other lines were specifically done before this in such a way i.e. with the help of snow :-\ John Allen - what a ledge.
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My wife asked me last night who coined the phrase "snowballing" to mean highballing above snow, which got me wondering whether John Allen was the first snowballer with his ascent of Boys will be Boys (E6) at Stanage in 1986? Steve Adams and I 'snowballed' this back in 2000 (April 6th according to Steve) having read in the old Stanage guidebook that the first ascent was done above a massive drift. I wonder whether any other lines were specifically done before this in such a way i.e. with the help of snow :-\ John Allen - what a ledge.
Careful who you tell you've been snowballing ;)
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=snowballing (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=snowballing)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snowballing_(sexual_practice) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snowballing_(sexual_practice))
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9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.
9 is Enuff 7A+
Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:
Great stuff! Had a look at this years back (no snow) and recall that getting past the overlap is fairly nails. Would be a fantastic ground up project as the drift gradually recedes – meltpointing?
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I thought 7a for the righthand beta on Deadline (I vote this be called Undeadline). Like others have said, I can see why a short person climbing above a pointy block would use more direct beta. Also don’t forget with the current snow level the pocket is gained with one move off the arete, rather than traversing in from the Storm as per the FA, maybe this also makes a difference.
So nobody’s tried out the Boys will be Boys landing yet (did a bit more work on this on Monday eve)? I gave it a brief play on very tired arms after building up the landing on Saturday and got up to a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
Would like to have a post work session on this tomorrow if anyone is keen??
I’ve found that as the snow is now quite old it can be hard to move using a shovel in some places. A pruning saw works a treat as a snow saw and is a good quick way to build stuff up, especially if you want to stick blocks on the side of a platform to widen it.
I’ve got something like this:
(http://images.greenfingers.com/images/superstore/LS7609D_l.jpg)
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a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
That sounds familiar even back through the mists of time. I think the top out is pretty steady, I didn't bother taking a rope and cam for it.
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I would be keen to give a try tomorrow bonjoy. Had a look monday day and the top section was still wet so didn't try it.
On "undeadline" I did start from the Storm and although it adds a bit, its not that much providing your not too short....
Felt 7A to me from the storm. Nice enough problem
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I thought 7a for the righthand beta on Deadline (I vote this be called Undeadline). Like others have said, I can see why a short person climbing above a pointy block would use more direct beta. Also don’t forget with the current snow level the pocket is gained with one move off the arete, rather than traversing in from the Storm as per the FA, maybe this also makes a difference.
We all did it with a traverse in from the storm. It's a bit harder than coming in from the right (some people couldn't do the match in the pocket) but nothing too significant. Personally I don't think that this is a different problem to Deadline, just that an easier sequence has been found. From my (possibly wrong) memory of el mocho doing it he was basically in the same position as the new sequence (slightly higher right heel) but reached to a different right hand hold. In my opinion it would be better to just down grade deadline (although I bet it feels less like 7a in that position high above nasty blocks) than have a multitude of eliminates on this classic block.
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I agree. The new name thing was only a pisstake.
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Oops, sorry Jon, people were talking seriously about it being a different problem the other day.
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Does Careless Youth have a landing now? Has it ever been repeated?
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Andy Harris has repeated it. I started making a landing and cleared most of the top the other day. I'm planning on finishing the job this afternoon if I can.
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On Boys will be Boys I remember, a looooong time ago, somehow reaching up to a pocket with my left then coming up to a small undercut below it with my right, then making a long reach for good holds with me left (maybe in the break) then a 5b move to finish. That could be wrong.
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I think your memory might be a bit scrambled unless I'm wildly off the mark. The undercut seems definately one for the left hand and is a metre or so below the pocket :-\.
Did some more work on the Careless Youth Landing with another guy (didn't know his name), on Monday. It had a great platform by the time we finished, he'd swept the top clear and the melt water was nearly dry.
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So nobody’s tried out the Boys will be Boys landing yet (did a bit more work on this on Monday eve)? I gave it a brief play on very tired arms after building up the landing on Saturday and got up to a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
Would like to have a post work session on this tomorrow if anyone is keen??
I can remember the l-hand undercut and pocket then the crux being a committing step up with your left foot high on a ramp (?) to get height and reach something hidden with your right hand that's actually good when you get it. The rest is easy. I'm pretty good at remembering moves, but it was 14 years ago so take that with a pinch of salt ;)
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It would be good to see Careless Youth get a few ascents. Shame about the landing in normal conditions.
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The Promise was wet by 2 today :( Wet streak creeped down into the pocket and lower crimp. Doesn't look to be any more snow up there so should dry up soon ish. Good landing too, would be fine with one or 2 pads but a spotter might be handy
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The Promise was wet by 2 today :( Wet streak creeped down into the pocket and lower crimp. Doesn't look to be any more snow up there so should dry up soon ish. Good landing too, would be fine with one or 2 pads but a spotter might be handy
Whole block dry when I left about 9 this morning - you just need to get up early (better friction then - cloudy and only reaching 3 degrees by 10.00 tomorrow, -1 at 7.00) I was there before 8 today.
I was going to shovel the last bits off the top this am but it was all still frozen.
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Yeah, I did wake up early but couldnt get out there until later. Don't suppose you know if the streak dries off by evening time do you El Mocho?
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Don't know, if you cleared all the snow that was causing the streak then maybe - once the cause has gone it should dry out, the block will be in the sun till quite late? I thought the top of the Promise was all clear from snow, the only streaks I have seen has been down LIO
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I think there was still a small amount of snow in the break so hopefully it should be the last of it and will dry out :)
thanks for the pointers
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Regarding stanage without oxygen.does no one dyno it?that's how me and turner led it a few years ago.we may be heading stanage tomorrow
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Reckon the platform on 3BM is about 2ft lower than it was on Friday. Boiling out in the sun too.
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I think there was still a small amount of snow in the break so hopefully it should be the last of it and will dry out :)
thanks for the pointers
Promise certainly was drenched this PM and the entire crag was boiling (the irony is if it wasn't for the novelty of the snow you'd not touch burbage north with a barge pole when it's this sunny normally). Looks like good climbing but you'd want a good spot on the left edge of the snow ledge. Do we know if anyone has done it post-snow?
Had a look at puck, landing ok but tons of dripping and runoff. Nefertiti was wet and has a huge semidetached cornice just waiting to kill someone.
At apparent north we built up a bit of a landing on that arête right of mating toads.
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If the Nefertiti Cornice comes off that will make a mint snowball.
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(the irony is if it wasn't for the novelty of the snow you'd not touch burbage north with a barge pole when it's this sunny normally)
Too right, like trying to climb a bar of soap. Bailed to Higgar which was much more like it.
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Anyone been up to Marble Wall?
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A bunch of folk have done Goosey Goosey Gander, b3n99 put a shot up on this thread, but that was a few days ago.
Edit: also 1:21 on 205Chris' vid a couple of pages back
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Only had a glance from the path, but there didn't look like any snow on top or in the break. It gets the full sun so should dry fairly quickly tomorrow morning but don't take my word for it.
Ai No Corrida platform is pretty thin now, potential to topple off the back. 3 Blind Mice platform seemed fine.
Then went to Stanage, Cemetary Waits platform is OK, could do with topping up at the back. Shine On platform very slopy now, there's a huge drift a few metres away but would take a bit of effort to get it into a good state again.
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Regarding stanage without oxygen.does no one dyno it?that's how me and turner led it a few years ago.we may be heading stanage tomorrow
I imagine the foot holds you used are under the snow (and I'm not joking).
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There is still plenty of snow about and it wouldn't take much work to keep some of the landings topped up despite the warm temps.
We shoveled some more onto the Cemetery Waits and Shine On landings. As Mark said, Cemetery is still fine (**) but Shine On is starting to get a bit spicy (* or worse :().
Don't forget your shovels people who are heading out tomorrow.
Props to the people making the effort.
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Should have done Shine On last weekend. Melting fast it seems.
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Anyone got any good snowballing pics? Feeling left out down in Cornwall, closest thing we have got to snow is frozen seagul shit!!
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Anyone got any good snowballing pics? Feeling left out down in Cornwall, closest thing we have got to snow is frozen seagul shit!!
Don't know about good but I posted some earlier in the thread from last weekend.
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Is anyone keen to get out this afternoon? Thinking of stanage or burbage along with doing some digging work.
Anyone keen?
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Anyone got any good snowballing pics?
Good might be stretching it but Dolly on Ai No Corrida:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8603031928_d2ac0b58c4_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ijt/8603031928/in/photostream)
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Looks like the snow is still there, jsut needs shifting. No-one got a snow blower yet? Or those huge plastic pelles?
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Is anyone keen to get out this afternoon? Thinking of stanage or burbage along with doing some digging work.
Anyone keen?
I'll be at the plantation from 5ish - rest day, just digging but can give you a spot
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Looks like the snow is still there, jsut needs shifting.
The picture is from was uploaded Saturday 30th March.
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Good skills sleuth---line but it's actually from Friday.
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Good might be stretching it but Dolly on Ai No Corrida:
did he get it?
(can't see pic at work)
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Afraid not, we went back up yesterday but it wasn't to be.
There were a group of Italians up there one of whom did it, had a fluttery grovel at the top, came back down, tapped his forelock and stated "Eengleesh climbing is fuucking craaazy, no"
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Just too scared. I just thought too much about falling rather than climbing :(
Also, I knew I shouldn't have worn green and blue together with that hat. Its just too busy
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superstition on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63314131)
That looks nails! Nice one Ben!
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Brilliant!
Iain will be pleased his four hours platforming haven’t gone to waste (he went over on his ankle on warm up go number two, writing off climbing for the foreseeable)!
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superstition on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63314131)
That looks nails! Nice one Ben!
Effort, looks proper hard that. Good tekkerz
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Thanks,
Platforming pretty substantial - Iain done a good job on it, would have been nice to extend even further leftwards as felt possible to miss the ledge from the last move - hence all the dithering.
Don't know how the platforms have held up today but (skin dependent Superstition pretty tough on fingers) would be keen to go back for L.I.O.
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superstition on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63314131)
Is it just me or is that brilliantly put together or what? Top marks on the climbing and editing!
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superstition on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63314131)
Is it just me or is that brilliantly put together or what? Top marks on the climbing and editing!
i agree, brilliant on all fronts. 1st repeat too?
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didn't dan v do it last time the snow was about?
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didn't dan v do it last time the snow was about?
i don't think so
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I have never been so gripped as the 25ish seconds i stood at the last hard move of Superstition, with no one else there (but my camera), needing the gumption to just pop 8inches from a little cluster of pebbles to the ledge but with that distance feeling more like 8 feet.
from:
http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/tagged/e9 (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/tagged/e9)
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Ledge, nice one Ben.
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Superstition.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_slv0hhtNaj4/S6D_OWWCwKI/AAAAAAAAAEY/3kyYJRU2_zc/s1600/Still%2B9.jpeg)
assumed he had from this photo on the thread from last time?
edit: nai beat me to it
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Top video! :great:
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Generally looked like a fun day out...
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I'll pass on the good video comments to May - one of the reasons she was so keen to come out was to do some filming (hence the other video on my vimeo of her caving) - the way to get good footage: give your child a gopro to use (although handy to have another camera as she is likely to go and film holes in the ground or her own gloves)
Just to add a little facts about my ascent before anyone goes claiming a ground up for me: I abbed down this back in 2008-10 (only once but can't remember when, after doing the Promise and before Dan etc tried it) I failed to do any of the moves, or even work out the sequence, except the last move which I did - you can see how much I remember in the video! So as much as it felt like a ground up ascent (although above a big pile of snow) it wasn't.
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Thanks,
Platforming pretty substantial - Iain done a good job on it, would have been nice to extend even further leftwards as felt possible to miss the ledge from the last move - hence all the dithering.
Don't know how the platforms have held up today but (skin dependent Superstition pretty tough on fingers) would be keen to go back for L.I.O.
This feels like a significant repeat to me. 2nd ascent after 12? years and its the closest unrepeated hard grit route to Sheffield!
Chapeau Ben and unsung wad Miles Gibson.
Dans grades from 2011 make interesting reading, what do you think Ben (for the style in which you did it)?
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Dans grades from 2011 make interesting reading, what do you think Ben (for the style in which you did it)?
Not read that bit from the beastmaker blog before but most of the grades seemed pretty good. I think 7C or 7C+ is about right for this, def not 8A. Don't know what the E grade would be, how useful the gear is (not very for the last bit I imagine) or how high you would feel with no snow (very I imagine!) It is obviously substantially harder and higher than Shine On etc, harder (or at least less basic) higher and worse landing than Renegade...
It is very good though.
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lovely video, great effort by team.
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lovely video, great effort by team.
+1.
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Really good video that!
Did a bit of platforming at the Popular End this afternoon mainly easier stuff- Gullible's Travels and Randolf Cheerleader both have big flat landings. Reagent has a big drift which I tried to flatten but snapped my shovel so it's not quite as good as it could be, but would take 5 mins to get it good. Flattened out the landing under Plastic Dream and Pedlar's Slab. Looked like Bob's Jolly Jape would be fine after a quick 5 mins with a shovel, the top out up Ellis' looked dry too.
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Good work, I did Plastic Dream last time and it's really good. Trimming The Beard next door had snow under it last time too and is also good fun.
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Ace video Klem :)
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Shifted the snow from the top of Weather Report and platformed it, hoping it will dry by either tomorrow evening or sat.
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Anyone fancy headin Burbage and shifting Neferiti cornice tomorrow morning?
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Not really worth the effort, can get a pretty decent pad stack on it in normal conditions. Are you out tomorrow?
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In morning, but want to get back to Sheff for 2:30
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Can anyone tell me if its worth going to shine on tomorrow?
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Can anyone tell me if its worth going to shine on tomorrow?
And if the state of the Mental Block and Ai No Corrida/3bm justify a 3 hour drive. Thanks!
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Hopefully out at stanage later so will report back.
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I did a bunch of cornice clearing and plat forming on nefertiti and happy ever after early this morning. Still a load to do all the same. I left a shovel in the deep chimley to the left if anyone was keen and shovelless.
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For any lancs based climbers, there's a huge snow drift beneath the Three Little Piggies wall at Cow's Mouth, making the short routes pretty safe with one pad. I climbed the route left of TLP, it's not in the guidebook but it felt maybe 7Aish, slightly overhanging crimping to a fluffable top. TLP itself had a bit of run off, but this should clear up when the small pile of snow on top melts.
(https://vosxpq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pgZrlLjjQohylxaG8W3KqM22L852aWVev-RYldQjl6q7oH3ZDdLC8ExofpEz_cbcExhMVcxNzID0qinKg7PWhKL4SytfUaU1C/P1070401.JPG?psid=1)
(https://71q8dw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p3YsnvLBzpSSF2sU1efbjAxnU4ONXdv0QBfqxbe9ADC_bd9TWclFQZwfLRGSngX9feEOuV85Tycn5f68M3p_KXc52ZqmCFiSd/P1070416.JPG?psid=1)
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Boldness Through Ignorance in good shape?
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Yep. That buttress is all dry. No snow landing for that though.
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Can anyone tell me if its worth going to shine on tomorrow?
It is now! A couple more ascents this evening, the start was a bit scary and landing below the crux was a bit slopey when we arrived but we used a rope round a snow bollard to hold the pads in place. A few of us also shovelled a load more snow onto it afterwards (I daresay the logicians would say we did this in the wrong order). Reckon it is definitely a ** landing now below a *** problem. 3-4 mats and a spotter should see you right.
Nan has done a great job on weather report. I also abbed it this afternoon to clean the scrittle off. The top break is really green but you don't need it. Crux is totally safe but bring your topping out skills: */** for the landing.
Still plenty of snow below the mental block.
Ulysses had a wet streak on but the other aretes looked fine. Archangel can now be topped out.
Silk still fine.
There is still a shed load of snow about. Reckon the Shine On landing could be there for a few more days at least if people keep topping it up. Cemetery Waits also still fine.
Don't forget your shovels people!!
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Great nice one Chris Im going tomorrow for first time snowballin this year so will have a crack at Shine On if anybody's about. I'll be at Stanage/ Burbage first thing, not sure what time il end up at Shine On, will play it by ear. Will bring shovel!
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I'll be at the Plantation tomorrow afternoon to lose my snowballing cherry. :bounce:
I'll bring a shovel and will probably be content with digging and spotting after giving Big Air a go.
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Thanks Chris, tres excited!
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Great nice one Chris Im going tomorrow for first time snowballin this year so will have a crack at Shine On if anybody's about.
I'm going up first thing to build the platform up a bit, then going to wander over to Chip Shop Brawl, but will be back at Shine On to catch the good late afternoon conditions. Maybe see you there.
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Great nice one Chris Im going tomorrow for first time snowballin this year so will have a crack at Shine On if anybody's about. I'll be at Stanage/ Burbage first thing, not sure what time il end up at Shine On, will play it by ear. Will bring shovel!
Get to it beast, you'll rinse it.
Should also have said that the Black Car Burning platform is holding out well and saw another ascent today using the kneebar beta.
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Strong work from El Mocho on Superstition.
However, my main question from the snowballing videos is what type of dog is Klem? :shrug:
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Strong work from El Mocho on Superstition.
However, my main question from the snowballing videos is what type of dog is Klem? :shrug:
I could be wrong, but is he/she a cockerpoo?
Seen a couple of them as Mrs Tone wants us to get one despite my best efforts to convince her that a Border Collie would be a better option!
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I thought he was a Poodle x something, just wasn't sure on the something!
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Great nice one Chris Im going tomorrow for first time snowballin this year so will have a crack at Shine On if anybody's about. I'll be at Stanage/ Burbage first thing, not sure what time il end up at Shine On, will play it by ear. Will bring shovel!
Ted, I'm keen for Shine On, give me a bell (not sure I've still got your number).
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Hi Ru great I'll PM you, see u tomorrow
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A Weather Report from this evening - Cool, dry but with spells of scrittle.
Weather Report (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2bXCuePUS0#)
Massive thanks to Nan for driving all the way from Derby last night to chop the cornice off and build the platform!
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Nice mark, hope it gets others on it over the weekend.
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Strong work from El Mocho on Superstition.
However, my main question from the snowballing videos is what type of dog is Klem? :shrug:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soft-coated_Wheaten_Terrier (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soft-coated_Wheaten_Terrier)
or one looking more like Klem:
http://puppycrowdsource.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/wheaton-terrier.html (http://puppycrowdsource.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/wheaton-terrier.html)
Good work on all the re platforming guys, was up at Marble wall yesterday and there is still a lot of snow up there....
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Cheers El Mocho.
Do you reckon the snow/platforms will last into next week?
Trying to work out whether to go to Font or go snowballing... The forecast for both doesn't look amazing!
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A little vid of that Cow's Mouth highball.
Ancient Bolt Route, Cow's Mouth (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4Pzmy_TMg#ws)
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A Weather Report from this evening - Cool, dry but with spells of scrittle.
Weather Report (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2bXCuePUS0#)
Massive thanks to Nan for driving all the way from Derby last night to chop the cornice off and build the platform!
loved the weather report vid. Kudos.
And much less traumatic than that other infamous weather report fail you tube vid.
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"And much less traumatic than that other infamous weather report fail you tube vid."
That fall is so grim.
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"And much less traumatic than that other infamous weather report fail you tube vid."
That fall is so grim.
Horrible. You can see the fella ain't comfortable, out of his depth. A bit disco leg looking, yet his mate is egging him on.
At least he is has the consolation that from that crater, missing his crash pad probably made no difference.
I just wonder what injuries poor guy suffered, and hope he walked again. Very nasty.
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Cleared snow off top of Nefertiti today, all but slush gone. Should hopefully melt and be good Monday, maybe even tomorrow.
It was so warm though, deffo would not have been there if it weren't for the snow, the ice cream van said it all.
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I don't get back from USA till Tuesday. Reckon snow will still be around at burbage? Wanting to try ai no corrida is all.... Cheers.....
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Did Ai no this morning at about 9am. The platform only just extends far enough now. I suspect it will b e5 by Tuesday given the current temps.
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Bugger... Ok cheers
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Shine On platform getting lower and a bit collapsy, but had 4 ascents. Hot in the sun though. If anyone picked up my 5.10 velcros (either size 5 or 5.5, can't remember which), I'd be grateful if you could PM me, thanks.
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Had a walk up High Neb side of Stanage today. Lots still to do up there. Sorted a good platform under Exaltation. Looks mint. Will be on it tomorrow.
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Out early tomorrow, anyone heading to Black Car Burning?
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I'd be keen for that. Shouldn't you be at John Lewis?
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Had a walk up High Neb side of Stanage today. Lots still to do up there. Sorted a good platform under Exaltation. Looks mint. Will be on it tomorrow.
Nice one Jon, I'll be heading that way to tomorrow, what time you out? I'll prob be heading up about 12
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[/quote]I'd be keen for that. Shouldn't you be at John Lewis?
I'm my own man, I'll be out. for sure, without doubt, 100%
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Had a walk up High Neb side of Stanage today. Lots still to do up there. Sorted a good platform under Exaltation. Looks mint. Will be on it tomorrow.
Did you park at the Cutthroat bridge end? Just wondering if it would be quicker, or knee deep snow crawling coming in from there tomorrow morning?
We built a huge platform under Chip Shop Brawl this afternoon, should last a while.
Crew Pegs Diffs, Embarresment & No More Excuses all still have good landings.
Slap and Spittle has a good landing too.
We built a big platform under New York / Sir Chilled, cleaned the scrittle, but it was taking run off as we walked back this evening
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Heard a rumor that simbas pride had been platformed, anyone know if there's any truth in it?
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Had a couple of ascents today that I know of. Still think its pretty high though
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Seen a few photos now, looks like you need a big team with lots of pads. Nice work on the landings!
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https://vimeo.com/63480580
The platform is not massive on Simbas. You need a good few pads too!
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Flippin 'eck, that looked scary!
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Had a walk up High Neb side of Stanage today. Lots still to do up there. Sorted a good platform under Exaltation. Looks mint. Will be on it tomorrow.
Nice one Jon, I'll be heading that way to tomorrow, what time you out? I'll prob be heading up about 12
Good stuff. Meeting somebodysfool at High Neb parking about 11
Mark20 - No walked in from High Neb as I wan't to check out the state of other things on the way.
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I'm meeting Mason at High Neb car park at 12:00
Think there's a few people heading up, good stuff.
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Great il be there this afternoon, hulking the pads. Team syke!
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Twop twip; boulderers or anyone after ego E points to boost their ukc logbook get out there soon,its going to be a warm one.
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Any opinions on if there'll be anything left by tomorrow? Not too bothered about specific problems, just fancy some general snow enhanced fun.
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Aye, still tonnes of snow below High Neb and further left. Melt wasn't too bad today as it was cool and cloudy.
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Aye, still tonnes of snow below High Neb and further left. Melt wasn't too bad today as it was cool and cloudy.
Yeah High Neb was mint today. Just cool enough. Exaltation is a real good one for some qual which is a bit different.
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Quail? Bit early for them surely.
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Lots of things up at high neb and stanage end in order, Fate, Typhoon Direct, Wolf Solent, No More Excuses, Embarrassment of Riches, Crew Pegs Diff, Slap 'n Spittle, Turtle Power, Exaltation, New York, New York / Sir Chilled and Chip Shop Brawl all have decent landings. Get them while you can!
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Black car burning had 4 ascents today, spent an hour consolidating the platform, it is now back up to scratch....for now
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Put in some decent shovel-work on Shine On, platform now extends further right which should stop people missing pads / sliding away on them. Could maybe do with extending back a little but fine with a spotter, I tested it well today! Still plenty of snow for future repairs. Cemetry Waits landing is still fine as well.
White Wand & Ulysses platforms both fine too and now low enough to do all the proper moves. Archangel / Don are both a bit knackered but fixable pretty quick with a shovel if anyone wants to.
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Anyone done Turtle Power?
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It was platformed yesterday but didn't see any chalk. Don't think folk were sure how far right it climbed and one of the guides mentioned it being unrepeated since a pebble broke.
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It takes a pretty direct line up the centre of the butress. I'd have to check but I thought the pebble I did the crux (round first roof) with was still there.
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It got platformed last monday when we did the slap n' spittle one but didn't give it a go, thought the crux was a dyno and the landing is quite narrow
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the landing is quite narrow
It is very narrow now, 2/3 of a mat.
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The old recent developments guide mentions two finger pebble. I couldn't see one.
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Cheers for the predictions, had a good day out today. Didnt venture far so not much to add, but platforms on silk, ulysses and white wand are in good condition. Did a little digging on archangel and don, the platforms are diminishing but they're still a big improvement on the normal landings. Very doable with a bit of care.
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In case anyone else fancies it I'll be going for an evening session on Shine On tomorrow to try and finish it off. More pads & psyche always welcome. Will chuck some more snow on the platform whilst I'm there.
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The old recent developments guide mentions two finger pebble. I couldn't see one.
The 2 finger pebble is/was above the first break where you get reasonable gear. Right foot high, left hand on pebble, massive slap up to next ledge.
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Cleaned Nefertiti on a rope today, and built up the platform. The shovel is still in the chimney to the left (thanks for that).
Also noticed that Life in a Radioactive Dustbin and Puck were both dry and had landings built.
The snow is very wet and sugary though, I don't think it's going to last much longer.
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Is all the shovelling finished around Nefertiti Mark20? I might go and get my shovel back if so.
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That should be enough for now. Might need a bit of work in a couple of days with current temperatures though- still plenty of snow in the drift up and left.
If Happily Ever After dries off in the next couple of days, it might be worth leaving the shovel down there since that side of the landing will need a bit more work.
Anyway, a few of us are going tomorrow evening if anyone wants a spot
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Archangel - Don - Ulysses - White Wand etc all still good this afternoon. Lots of spare snow around if folks want to top up platforms. Getting off the top was a bugger in my rock boots though. Thigh deep most of the way round and I ended up absolutely soaked from the waist down.
As mark says - sugary/slushy and probably not last too much longer now. Wish I didn't have meetings arranged for tomorrow :'(
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Fair enough, I'll leave it there for a bit.
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Forecast 18degrees by the weekend folks, looks like the party's over.
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Not sure why you’re so pleased dave. You’ll have to queue to get on kudos/pinches wall next week.
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Great session today on the classic aretes, cheers to the platform teams!
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Sad to see that there is quite a bit of rain due over the next week, might wash quite a bit away :slap:
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Stanage end was a proper winter wonderland yesterday. Still plenty of snow. We could see the platform below/chalk on exaltation. Been getting a few ascents. Looks fun - if only I wasn't fat and weak. Great evening - able to climb in the light til gone 8!
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The Snow Patrol on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63858011)
Vid from last weekend climbing some easier snowballs at High Ned and Stanage End areas.
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Brilliant :-)
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The Snow Patrol on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63858011)
Vid from last weekend climbing some easier snowballs at High Ned and Stanage End areas.
Nice one, qual little vid.
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The Snow Patrol on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63858011)
Vid from last weekend climbing some easier snowballs at High Ned and Stanage End areas.
Nice one, qual little vid.
(http://static.clickbd.com/global/classified/item_img/786492_0_original.jpg)
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Bare qual yeah?
(http://ichef.bbci.co.uk/food/ic/food_16x9_608/foods/q/quail_16x9.jpg)
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Chip Shop Brawl platform in good nick on Saturday. Added a bit of snow, and given the size of it I'm sure it will stick around for a few days yet.
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Chip Shop Brawl platform in good nick on Saturday. Added a bit of snow, and given the size of it I'm sure it will stick around for a few days yet.
Hmm - not so sure.
Sunday was positively equatorial and it was the air temp that was high - not just in the sun. Burbage last night was pretty devoid of any snow and the one or two clumps still about were almost visibly melting. My companion had been at burbage on saturday and reckoned it had gone down about 5 foot or more since saturday.
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Caught the end of the party on Saturday with Wolf Solent and Typhoon Direct. Anyone else do Youth Meat start? Good problem, but hard, maybe a 7. Used poor pocket for R hand though guide talks about L.
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Chip Shop Brawl platform in good nick on Saturday. Added a bit of snow, and given the size of it I'm sure it will stick around for a few days yet.
Hmm - not so sure.
Sunday was positively equatorial and it was the air temp that was high - not just in the sun. Burbage last night was pretty devoid of any snow and the one or two clumps still about were almost visibly melting. My companion had been at burbage on saturday and reckoned it had gone down about 5 foot or more since saturday.
Blimey. On Sunday, we were shivering in down jackets at Rowtor. From what i hear though, most of the Burbage snow was already gone by the weekend?
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Heard from a mate on Sunday there was still snow at Stanage far left.... Gonna try chip shop brawl (hopes are low for snow but shall post...)
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For anyone who's interested but not seen it yet.
How many UKBers can you spot?
Hard Grit, Soft Snow on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63950989)
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Superb Chris.
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Excellent vid Chris. Almost sad that I missed all of the action by being in the sunshine in font!
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Any chance of putting this on you tube?
Can't get vimeo on me phone.
Cheers
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Fucking brilliant, its not often I get through a vid without fast-forwarding most of it. Time for a bump to the UKB frontpage?
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Thanks for the comments folks.
Adge - It's currently uploading to Youtube but due to the size of the file / my dire internet connection it's predicting around 3 hours. I'll post a link when it's done.
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Thanks Chris.
Appreciated. I miss out on loads of vids. When i need new phone, have to make sure it supports vimeo.
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Nice one Chris, love your reaction on Shine On, and 7:20 "I wouldn't slap to it but it's ok"... SLAP, and 13:20 both made me laugh.
I got:
you
B3n99
Gritlad
Oli Grounsell
bonjoy
mark20
sure there must be at least a couple more
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Brilliant :bow:
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Wow, didn't expect it to make the front page.
Adge - Here's the youtube link, hope you enjoy it: Hard Grit, Soft Snow (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TU054-pUFA#ws)
Duma - Thanks, felt like a proper YYFY moment on Shine On. It's a route I've always wanted to do since being stood beneath the start of BAW's crawl, the HVS to the right years ago but never thought I'd have the ability / balls / skill to do it as an E7 in good style. Having failed a few days previously (it's hard to see in the vid but on that first fall I missed the mats and landed waist deep in snow!) I knew my chances were limited before the snow went. All the shoveling you see us do at the start is actually after the ascent!
I was a bit annoyed as I had some footage of you on it but turned my camera off just before your actual ascent.
I think Nan making the ascent of Weather Report is the only main one you missed
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Fantastic ending, beautifully captured. What's the last track?
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Fantastic ending, beautifully captured. What's the last track?
Thanks Andy. It's Karine Polwart - Cover Your Eyes
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:please:
Hi Chris
sorry to be a nuisance. Can you enable youtube for mobile viewing.
Thanks
Adge
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Great video, I also watced it through without going anywhere near the FF button.
A quick question for the snowballing massive. I don't want to sound like a twat (although I think I probably will) but I remember a while back reading a piece JB had written about how he once headpointed a route (Piece of Mind??) and how it was a hollow experience for him and in retrospect he wished he hadn't done it and had instead waited to be able to onsight it. I can see that snowballing is different to that but I was wondering if there was any of the same sense? As obviously an element of the challenge of these routes has been diminished to some extent (a point acknowledged at the end of the film). Just to be clear I ask this question not in a sneery or critical way, just out of interest.
I have been in a similar situation to JB where I have regretted headpointing routes, but equally I have been very glad to have headpointed some routes. So now the snows gone do any of you retrospectively wish you'd saved one or two of the routes for a "proper" ascent?
NOTE: This isn't the fore-runner to some long ethical and stylistic debate (or at least I hope it isn't) just idle curiosity.
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Think it depends on your ambitions. I'd never have done these climbs, and had no real ambition to, without the snow, so no, I'm just chuffed to have got the chance experience some great climbing I wouldn't have otherwise. Perhaps if you did aspire to ground up them as routes it would feel like a soft option, but surely still stylistically superior to a headpoint I'd guess.
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:please:
Hi Chris
sorry to be a nuisance. Can you enable youtube for mobile viewing.
Thanks
Adge
Unless I'm being a muppet youtube has disabled viewing for mobiles as a result of some of the tracks that I've used. I will try and sort it or else I'll have to upload it without music so please bear with me.
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Great video, I also watced it through without going anywhere near the FF button.
A quick question for the snowballing massive. I don't want to sound like a twat (although I think I probably will) but I remember a while back reading a piece JB had written about how he once headpointed a route (Piece of Mind??) and how it was a hollow experience for him and in retrospect he wished he hadn't done it and had instead waited to be able to onsight it. I can see that snowballing is different to that but I was wondering if there was any of the same sense? As obviously an element of the challenge of these routes has been diminished to some extent (a point acknowledged at the end of the film). Just to be clear I ask this question not in a sneery or critical way, just out of interest.
I have been in a similar situation to JB where I have regretted headpointing routes, but equally I have been very glad to have headpointed some routes. So now the snows gone do any of you retrospectively wish you'd saved one or two of the routes for a "proper" ascent?
NOTE: This isn't the fore-runner to some long ethical and stylistic debate (or at least I hope it isn't) just idle curiosity.
Hi Nik, good question.
I think it's fair to say (though someone can correct me if I'm wrong) the majority of the snowballing massive are / were boulderers / highballers rather than trad climbers, so like Duma said the snow opens up an opportunity that normally doesn't exist for them.
From a personal perspective I have had a long held ambition to climb the 3 Robin Barker E7s on Stanage (Black Car Burning, Shine On & Unfamiliar). I've been climbing long enough now to know that I'll probably never have the ability to onsight them and while headpointing them was always an option it's something that's never really appealed to me. The option to experience the climbing on Shine On & BCB albeit above snow was for me, too good an opportunity to miss.
So to answer your question: No, I don't regret doing them above snow. In fact I think my experience on Shine On ranks as one of the most memorable ever as having failed on it on my previous sessions I knew I was facing a race against time to climb it before the snow went, which is why I look rather happy when I do it :)
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I was away this year and missed most of it, but in total I think I've only done a handful of routes with snow that I hadn't done without. For most of the others, it varied between something so different it wasn't comparable (Ulysses this year) to just a different vibe - eg Goosey Goosey where as a trad route it is a massive pumpy faff (for me anyway) whereas as a snowball it's brilliant, you can just get on with the climbing. I'm sure there are plenty of climbers who would be be much happier leading it though, it was still very high. Horses for courses etc...
One of my problems with headpointing was it always seemed a bit of a selfish style, lots of focus on the hero whilst belayers, spotters etc stand around getting cold and bored. Highball style, whether above snow or not, is far more democratic. You all get a go, you share beta etc, its much more like a skate/ surf scene where you 'session' a spot.
The great thing about the snow for me is the magnitude of the changes it can create overnight, and the drifts are never quite the same twice. For such a developed, recorded area it's a lot like being given a brilliant new crag overnight, in many cases even well established lines can seem illogical. There are a few new 'lines' (eg Snowblind mice) that aren't likely to get repeated in any other style.
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Great video, I also watced it through without going anywhere near the FF button.
A quick question for the snowballing massive. I don't want to sound like a twat (although I think I probably will) but I remember a while back reading a piece JB had written about how he once headpointed a route (Piece of Mind??) and how it was a hollow experience for him and in retrospect he wished he hadn't done it and had instead waited to be able to onsight it. I can see that snowballing is different to that but I was wondering if there was any of the same sense? As obviously an element of the challenge of these routes has been diminished to some extent (a point acknowledged at the end of the film). Just to be clear I ask this question not in a sneery or critical way, just out of interest.
I have been in a similar situation to JB where I have regretted headpointing routes, but equally I have been very glad to have headpointed some routes. So now the snows gone do any of you retrospectively wish you'd saved one or two of the routes for a "proper" ascent?
NOTE: This isn't the fore-runner to some long ethical and stylistic debate (or at least I hope it isn't) just idle curiosity.
This is a good question Nik. Theres a few routes that I haven't done like archangel or white wand that I could have got on with a couple of mats recently and done the top 2/3rds of without killing myself but i deliberately didn't as I'd rather either do them from the deck as routes or not at all.
The stuff I'm generally psyched for in the snow is stuff like established boulder problems where instead of needing a loads of mats and spotters to sort the landing you can just use two mats (big air for example) or stuff which is way beyond anything I would get on and has a suicide landing normally, and is still technically hard, like say the promise.
The stuff in between these two extremes I'm not that arsed about, like doing E5/6/7s which with snow end up being slightly necky sub-7 highballs. For whatever I can't get that psyched about these, not sure exactly why.
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Thanks for the replies so far, interesting reading.
What's Snowblind Mice?
JB you make an interesting point that the snow/drifting is very variable, such that one seasons snowballed ascent of a given line could actually be very different to another seasons depending on the nature of the snow drifts etc. So a 2015 snowball of Black Car Burning could be a mighty impressive tick whereas the 2014 and 2016 vintages were tamer beasts.
I guess I'm predominately a route climber at heart and several of the lines that get snow-balled I do aspire to climb and I think I'd personally prefer to do (try) them sans snow.
I'm not sure it's as clear cut as headpointing is selfish and ground-upping (snowballing) is democratic. I have had very enjoyable headpoints with partners who are also headpointing the same line, and I've had days trying to on-sight/ground up routes where at the end of the day I've had a brilliant time but there is a nagging doubt that my spotters/belayers might have had less fun (despite their protestations that it was great). But I do take your point and I guess that's all very OT.
Also the idea that the snowballers were on the whole boulderers encroaching ;) on the route climbers domain hadn't really occurred to me, fair point.
Dave I think I have a pretty similar point of view to you by the sounds of things. Maybe next year I'll get amongst it and find out for sure...
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What a great video. :2thumbsup:
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What's Snowblind Mice?
Left hand start to Three Blind Mice, Dan varian did the FA last time there was loads of snow (2010?). It's a brilliant mantel.
The idea that the snowballers were on the whole boulderers encroaching ;) on the route climbers domain hadn't really occurred to me, fair point.
I'd certainly fall into this camp.
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Good question, good replies, this sort of non-inflammatory ethical exploration is what makes UKB a good place to discuss it :2thumbsup:
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:please:
Hi Chris
sorry to be a nuisance. Can you enable youtube for mobile viewing.
Thanks
Adge
Hi Adge,
Try this, it works on my phone. I've removed the offending tracks so soundwise it might be a bit boring:
Hard Grit, Soft Snow (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TU054-pUFA#ws)
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13:20 is genius :2thumbsup:
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Fucking brilliant, its not often I get through a vid without fast-forwarding most of it.
:agree:
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:thumbsup:
Chris
thanks for taking trouble to put it on youtube.
It's fecking brilliant. Really gives a sense of what it was like for a southern softie snow dodger.
Loved the scenic shots as well. Sundown outro was good, gave the distinct impression that snowballing is temporary, and over again for now.
Some of those were beyond highball, full on solos.
13:28 weather report fall/crashpad sledging combo brilliant.
Thanks
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I'd agree that a lot of them still look incredibly high! I.e Weather Report!
I wouldn't say snowballers were all softie boulderers either. BB did a load of platforming and he could hardly be described as a mere "highballer". I would say the snowballers are "climbers" who enjoy climbing first and worry about what grade something should get later. Does it really matter if 3BM is an E7 or a 6C+? Obviously they will be different experiences but if the opportunity is given to climb these routes safely, in a non-dull headpoint environment (going back to JB's comment that headpointing generally ends up in a cold belayer), then why not? I'm sure there where a load of people who stayed in Sheffielf and tutted. This video clearly demonstrates who was having the most fun.
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This video clearly demonstrates who was having the most fun.
Yep, definitely all about fun the snowballin. Great vid Chris, you have my first ever wad point.
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Thanks for all the positive comments everyone :)
As a sort of random footnote to Nik's question I remember going to the plantation one Friday afternoon when there were two young guys and a slightly older guy trying problems on the mental block. As I stepped up to try Big Air I made an off hand comment to the two younger guys along the lines of "I wonder if the first ascensionist is annoyed that loads of people are now turning up and flashing Big Air" after which the older guy says "the first ascensionist is stood behind you". It was Martin Veale!
After chatting to him for a short while it seemed to me like he was genuinely excited to see people out trying / repeating his problem regardless of the fact the landing was greatly improved.
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Is that a marmot at 4.20?
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"I wonder if the first ascensionist is annoyed that loads of people are now turning up and flashing Big Air" after which the older guy says "the first ascensionist is stood behind you". It was Martin Veale!
:lol: :lol: Class